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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/07/2020 in all areas

  1. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
    2 points
  2. Sometimes when there is a voltage spike to the system (like connecting a new battery) the programming can get "mixed up". When this happens the best thing to do is have a tech/shop with a PIWIS re-program the affected control module(s). I think it very rare to replace a DME if most everything but one or two items are not working.
    2 points
  3. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    2 points
  4. Porsche "Book Time" to replace both front wheel bearings is 4.7 hours times your shops hourly rate. Porsche "Book Times" are usually a high estimate - an experienced tech can usually do the job in much less. So let the shop quote time - as long as it is under the "Book Time" you are likely good.
    2 points
  5. Looks like the part that goes inside the oil filter canister - to hold the filter in place. Just clean it and then push it back in.
    2 points
  6. Updated parts list (your's is 15 years old). 997.1 rear strut.pdf
    2 points
  7. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the
    2 points
  8. I would first check the one you have to make sure it is not blocked from air flow by debris.
    2 points
  9. Welcome to RennTech , and your English is fine, and much better than our Greek! It probably caused by oil pressure bleeding down from the hydraulic tensioner's in the VarioCam system, which do not cost that much, either in Euros or $.
    2 points
  10. Be aware the most dealer will not share the service records for the vehicle because they legally belong to the previous owner(s), and the dealers are uninclined to track them down and get a legal release.
    2 points
  11. I agree with millerchris85. After all the work and money poured into my CTT it’s eh now and I’d have been better served tuning up my 996TT. If you really must have a sporty drive in a Cayenne then I suggest looking after a 958 GTS, Turbo or Turbo S and having someone tuned them to your liking. Be forewarned though you will wear through ancillaries (brakes, axles, tensioners, etc...) much faster depending on how much and how hard you drive
    2 points
  12. A cooler on the return line from the rack to the pump will probably help.
    2 points
  13. Charge pressure sender Manifold pressure sender
    2 points
  14. A couple of days ago my head unit started cycling off and on every minute or so. I found some posts that these things are notorious for failing so I started looking for a place that would repair it. Luckily I found the Becker office in Saddle Brook NJ, called them, and they emailed me instructions how to fix it. Apparently my XM SAT provider caused the problem. It required a reboot as per below: WARNING It was brought to our attention, that the PCM 3.0 and 3.1 units have been rebooting continuously on a number of Porsche vehicles at the moment. It seems that a signal was s
    2 points
  15. OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is ent
    2 points
  16. Sorry for the delay, but the Virus has made things upside down everywhere around New York. Hope it's not too bad in Cleveland.:) I think I found some initial pics that can help you get started in solving the problem with your top... Here is a series of photos on my '97 Boxster when it still had the original "A Version", all metal housing transmissions. I think that if you put your clamshell manually to this exact position, and then duplicate the position of the V-levers and other parts, you will have an excellent starting point. Forgot to me
    2 points
  17. Hi guys, I bought my 1999 Porsche 911 C4 Tiptronic back in January and I've been doing little projects on it ever since. I used to have a 2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Scat Pack with a 6.4 liter V8 that I traded in last summer, but I was missing the sports car feeling too much so decided to buy the Porsche. One of the things that stood out to me on the test drive was just how sluggish and unresponsive the Tiptronic gearbox felt compared to the one I had in the Dodge. Since the rest of the car was in very good condition (invoices for every oil change & repair going back to 2003, IMS
    2 points
  18. You should not have to - unless you hooked up the new battery backwards. If the polarity was hooked up correctly then you need to start looking for poor grounds. Starting with the battery cable then chassis grounds.
    2 points
  19. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    2 points
  20. DIY tutorial to remove center console and replace stock shifter with a Numeric shifter. I completed this modification on my 2010 C4S. Center Console Removal and Shifter Replacement.pdf
    2 points
  21. Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open
    2 points
  22. Small rodent trapped in the HVAC? If PASM equipped air compressor on the way out?
    1 point
  23. The Valvetronic System, when closed, will sound very similar to stock. When the valves are open it will dramatically increase the tone of your Boxster. Our valved systems utilize Helical Vales, Same as what's used in the OEM Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini systems. In terms of sound and performance, you cannot do any better than that system! Fabspeed will even transfer the Lifetime Warranty to your name!
    1 point
  24. My memory is the car will attempt to lock itself. Leaving front up could trigger alarm. Also, after about a week locked, door will only open with key, and alarm will go off. Why don’t you back car into garage? Also, get a trickle charger that plugs into cigarette lighter, leaving window slightly open for cord to go through. Lighter is not switched, and saves you trouble of connecting charger to battery. Good luck.
    1 point
  25. Some of the early cars had a real problem getting the IM Readiness test "not ready" status to change without resorting to the PIWIS, even after all the necessary repairs have been completed. I have personally seen cars go more that 200 miles of daily drive cycles before the system switched to "ready", but I have never seen or heard for one going 2,400 miles. I would have to agree with Loren on this one; something is still not right. If the O2 sensor ahead of the cats goes to a straight line zero, or near zero voltage while the SAI pump is running, the system is functional.
    1 point
  26. That car is utterly gorgeous, congratulations! I owned one in the same colour for two years in London. Get the bolts that connect all of the exhaust system checked for rust. It's very expensive to fix later on and always happens. I would change them all every 3 or 4 years, consider better non OEM ones if you're not worried about maintaining the Porsche warranty. Also replacing the seals between the front and back side windows made mine feel like a new car as the glass didn't wobble. A cheap but satisfying fix. Made the car feel like new again. Enjoy! Sent from my SM-N976B using Tapatalk
    1 point
  27. No idea on cost of getting piwis, only that, I believe, it can only be done at a $tealership.
    1 point
  28. Thank you for updating and information.
    1 point
  29. Welcome to RennTech Common problem, usually the sending unit going goofy. Easy DIY.
    1 point
  30. Should be a case of unbolting and then disconnecting the wire harness connectors.
    1 point
  31. I was able to retrofit a spare wheel with jack and took kit from an older Boxster (986) into my 2007 Cayman (987.1). Clears front lid without touching. Takes up some of the space but I prefer spare and regular tires as opposed to run flat tires.
    1 point
  32. I was lucky enough to get a hold of 2 944's for $300. 1985 turbo which is my project. And a 1987 which is my parts car. Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
    1 point
  33. View this tutorial 955/957 rear seat latch replacement I believe it's a fairly common issue, but granted that I've only been around these Cayennes for a short while. Failure modes: 1-Unable to release latch to tilt seat-back forward, failure to unlatch. 2-Seat latch fails to secure seat-back in the upright position, failure to latch For me, I was running into failure mode #2. When pushing the seat-back up it would not latch no matter how hard I tried. I sourced a new-used replacement from ebay. The parts be
    1 point
  34. It connects to a vacuum line that goes to the switching solenoid.
    1 point
  35. Have your friend look into Michelin Super Sports (I have these on my 991S) or the newer PS4s. Both great tires, and some are becoming "N" rated, though that's not exactly required.
    1 point
  36. Ok guys, now that this seems sorted out. In my case the problem was a faulty air change-over valve. Since I was at it I also changed the electric change-over valve. I thought I'd post an entire post-mortem on the whole incident. This way future reader can get all the info in one spot. In short, no horror stories but a lot learnt. A Huge thanks to Loren, 1999Porsche911 and tholyoak for helping me thru this. Guys, I'm going to be quoting you in the writeup below, hope you guys don't mind. If people want to read the original message and the whole thread, its below. Background =========
    1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. P0134 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Interruption of Signal Function To diagnose the readiness for operation of the oxygen sensors, the position of the sensor voltage is evaluated (diagnosis is disabled in the case of certain faults or conditions). Diagnosis conditions Diagnostic Trouble Code P0134 is stored by the DME control module when the sensor voltage is continuously between 400 mY and 600 mY for more than 5 seconds. Potential causes: Open circuit in signal wire or ground wire of one oxygen sensor. Oxygen sensor heating not functioning. Outpu
    1 point
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