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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2020 in all areas

  1. Some after photos... Definitely took more time cleaning than building this motor....
    3 points
  2. The headlights look fine to me.... people obsessing over headlights and BS like that are what makes the 996TT still one of the best cars out there, pound-for-pound, dollar-for-dollar
    3 points
  3. You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
    3 points
  4. I created a video on how to remove and disassemble the front door. This includes removing the bottom trim strip, door lock, door handle, inner door panel, window/frame and door shell.
    2 points
  5. The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get. The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated. The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.
    2 points
  6. If you are even considering that, that's because you don't really like the car and should sell it. To me. For cheap.
    2 points
  7. Sometimes when there is a voltage spike to the system (like connecting a new battery) the programming can get "mixed up". When this happens the best thing to do is have a tech/shop with a PIWIS re-program the affected control module(s). I think it very rare to replace a DME if most everything but one or two items are not working.
    2 points
  8. As someone that spent a significant part of his career in the battery business, your use of "assuming the proportions are the same" is more than seriously flawed. The CCA test used by the BCI (Battery Council International, the international technical consortium that sets standards for battery ratings and testing procedures used by battery manufacturers world wide) is very similar to the one used by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers); which requires storing the finished and fully charged battery a 0F (-17.8 C) for a period of 24 hours, then load testing it to determine its CCA rating. There is no known "proportioning" formula for determining this value, only hard testing data. Lightweight battery manufacturers have been "inventing" unique rating values and "equivalencies" without a basis in technical facts, and that are really totally meaningless, simply because they know what the outcome of publishing the more widely accepted testing data would be: Their batteries would appear weak compared to conventional SLI (starting, lighting, ignition) batteries.
    2 points
  9. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem. The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops. The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).
    2 points
  10. Porsche "Book Time" to replace both front wheel bearings is 4.7 hours times your shops hourly rate. Porsche "Book Times" are usually a high estimate - an experienced tech can usually do the job in much less. So let the shop quote time - as long as it is under the "Book Time" you are likely good.
    2 points
  11. Looks like the part that goes inside the oil filter canister - to hold the filter in place. Just clean it and then push it back in.
    2 points
  12. Updated parts list (your's is 15 years old). 997.1 rear strut.pdf
    2 points
  13. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it. Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the Solution is that it never has to be replaced like other IMS retrofits, it is the ONLY permanent fix for IMS related headaches. We have never has any problems with the LN IMS Solution; it simply works, period
    2 points
  14. Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
    2 points
  15. Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open the hood and peel back the carpet cover just inside of the latch. Next, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the four plastic 'screws' holding the trim plate between the bumper and the hood flange. They merely turn 90 degrees (so that they are perpendicular to the car's direction of travel) and pop out. Then remove the trim piece and place to the side. Next, using a ten millimeter socket, remove the two bolts securing the latch to the car. They are located just inside the trunk under the carpet you just peeled back. Once they are removed, the latch is now only held in place by two metal cables and the alarm pin switch wires. Carefully unplug the alarm wires. Push in on a small 'latch' on the lower half of the plug and pull out the lower half. Then carefully rotate the upper half about 45 degrees (it should be fairly easy to move, don't force it) and the plug will pop out of the metal holder. Then use a small screwdriver to gently push a release clip on the plastic mounting point. This will allow the small plastic mount to separate from the wiring plug. Now you need to gently remove the cables from their sockets. Take the tension off of the upper cable and gently pull the cable up out of its socket. Then remove the lower cable in the same way. The only thing holding the latch in the car now is the alarm wiring harness. Push the rubber grommet through the body toward the bumper. You can then pull the wiring through and the entire latch will come out of the car. Be sure to set the stainless steel shroud to the side. It was not attached on my car but may be on yours. Now that you have the latch out of the car, you can see the large diameter steel spring that is wound around the large post to the passenger side of the latch. That is the culprit. The small plastic shroud over it pulled straight out and off of my latch. This is the microswitch that tells the alarm that the trunk is open or closed. Set it to the side. You should now see the latch mechanism and the hole that the spring needs to be in to function properly. I used two screwdrivers to push the other end of the spring (the end on the release / catch mechanism ) over the catch. This allowed me to push the end into the latch more easily. I then popped the spring back over the catch. Now there should be tension on both the latch and the catch. Lubricate with white lithium grease, or some other semi-solid lubricant and work the mechanism to ensure that it is functioning properly. Once you have confirmed proper function, reassemble in reverse order (i.e. put the alarm switch back on - it should snap right back in place ), pop the cable back on, thread the wiring through and secure the grommet in place, place the stainless shroud on, insert the bolts and loosely tighten things. Once the bolts are in, line up the hood and the latch mechanism and tighten down the latch. Replace the plastic bumper/body trim piece but don't insert the 'screws' until you've tested the hood a couple times. Once it is clear that the hood is functioning properly, secure the trim, replace the carpet and smile at a job well done, for free. If I can figure out how to transfer my pictures out of my camera phone I'll add some illustration to this. Hope this helps. I was frustrated as *)*^*( until y'all help me realize what the problem was. Pictures ...
    2 points
  16. Ok here is the deal with removing these things..... 1. First you must remove Both AC Vents, and the Upper Center Console... The strips are held in from screws behind the dash, but reaching them is a waist of time! 2. The 2 small strips will pop out with some force, just take a flat head screwdriver and tap it in behind the strip. The screws will pop out from the back of the dash... The dash is a hard plastic material and the screw heads are small so they will come right through the dash.. 3. The long piece across the passanger side was fun... Tape the dash will several pieces of tape to protect the dash in case you slip. These pieces have 2 layers to them.. take a flat head screwdriver and open the top part of the stip.. It will look like this once you peel off the top layer..you can see the top of the scew holes after you peel off the top layer Now my stereo installer had the next idea.. he took a small soldering gun like this... and heated up the head of the screw that is seen from the top side.. this made the area around the screw soft, and then I took the screwdriver behind the remaining strip and pried it right off.. it broke off to every screw head.. we just did this right along and 10 minutes later it was all out.. Be sure to not get the solder gun to close the the leather.. just keep it on for about 30 seconds.. it really is helpful if one guy holds the solder gun while the other removes the strip. The top piece is the stripped piece.. the bottom is the whole piece that was pulled out from the middle. Installing the new pieces was simple, a little silicone behind them helped the stay in place but its not needed..
    2 points
  17. Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
    2 points
  18. Shops tend to function like the distillation process; very few cars come in to tell us everything is fine, and the owners have absolutely no problems 😉 Roseann Rosannadanna was correct, "...'if it's not one thing, it's another"...it's always somethin'."
    1 point
  19. I think your problem may rest with the central locking computer under the driver’s seat, which prevents the car from starting by shutting off the fuel and ignition. These cars are infamous for letting water accumulate in the area where the control unit is located, causing corrosion and shorts that lead to problems with the windows, starting, locking the car, and an entire host of other nightmares. Suggest disconnecting your battery, removing your driver seat, pulling the control unit and opening it up; if it shows any signs of corrosion or water, that needs to be fixed first. There have been an endless list of posts here and elsewhere about this issue with photos of what a damaged control unit looks like. Good luck, and this is not an inexpensive repair.
    1 point
  20. No problem, that is what we are here for...................😉
    1 point
  21. If you are ever over this way I can hook up my PST2 and the settings.
    1 point
  22. Hi all, Hoping to provide some clarity on replacing the crankshaft position sensor on a 986 WITH Tiptronic transmission as I have not seen (or was unable to find) any good/clear pictures of the process to find the sensor. As I found out, it is hiding well behind the plug/receptacle for the Oxygen sensor on the right side of the vehicle. I read all kinds of guides pointing me to the correct general location, but they all pretty much said it was obvious and I knew exactly what I was looking for. I spent well over an hour searching because I could not see it, and found out that on a Tiptronic, you have no direct line of sight to the sensor unless you move the oxygen sensor plug/receptacle. Hopefully these pictures will help anyone else trying to replace the CPS no a tip. In order to see the CPS you must unplug the oxygen sensor, remove the receptacle mounting bolt and push both cables and mount/receptacle out of your way. The view shown here is from underneath the car looking up towards the wheel well and CV joint. A wider view of the area you need to look into remove the oxygen sensor, receptacle, and bracket. You can follow the cable from the oxygen sensor to the bracket in order to find it more easily. This is your entry point and trajectory. Just beside the right rear brake caliper, under the brake fluid line, past the coolant reservoir drain hose. The extension is probably all of 18 inches to get you deep into where you need to be to unscrew the bolt holding the CPS in place. I used the light you see plus a large work light on the floor to finally visualize the sensor. The only way I was finally able to find the sensor was to identify the cable from the sensor and follow it by hand and light. That is when I realized I could not see it due to the oxygen sensor plug being in the way. This is just a wider shot of the entry using the light as a reference and the brake caliper is in the foreground. Here is a view of the CPS still in place, but the bolt has been removed. The oxygen sensor plug and receptacle have also been removed and pushed out of the way. Once you see the CPS, it is obvious that is what you've been looking for. What I think are coolant hoses are very close to the trajectory you need to access the bolt. My extensions were pushed up right next to these hoses and I had to push on them with the tool in order to get access to the bolt. Just a couple of other tips and tricks. The bolt of the CPS is held on by thread locker. Make sure you have good engagement with your male hex into the screw head during removal, otherwise it could strip. I recommend ordering a new screw for the CPS while you're at it, the newer ones are torx and less likely to strip. Once you locate the CPS you will find that you can actually reach in there with your fingers through a path in order to push it out of and into the hole. When you go to put in your new CPS, place it in first without the bolt. You can wiggle it into the hole reasonably easy with your fingers through the aforementioned path. When you go to place the bolt, either use a magnetic tool or tape the bolt to your male hex so that it doesn't fall off. Yours truly lost the original bolt and still have yet to find it. Luckily it is a pretty standard M6x16 available at your local hardware store. But I have no clue where that bolt ended up. I searched by every means possible including a powerful magnet around the area of loss and still could not find it. Hope this helps save you the hour or so of searching in your 986 Tiptronic for the CPS. Remove that O2 sensor harness first and you'll save a bunch of time and frustration!
    1 point
  23. Yep, ignorance is bliss. my recollection is you cannot manually adjust the powered seats. I remember the procedure for lubing the forward/back screw-like drive, but don’t recall ever reading about any manual adjustment. good luck.
    1 point
  24. So sorry I forgot to post the image that goes with the explanation (more or less)...
    1 point
  25. I have installed one in my 03 turbo. 1. Make sure that you replace the following before installing: 996-552-231-12-01C Support frame for center dashboard trim in Satin Black for Porsche 986 and 996 99655265304 Retaining Bar Climate control trim 996-552-339-00-01C 1. Took me awhile to figure out how to install the PCCM retaining brackets so they are secured to the horseshoe. 2. When you re-locate your HVAC control make sure you run the harness on the right side of the dash. There is only one place where the cables will be long enough to connect to the control module. 3. The USB media box harness needs to run to the center of the dash. The harness length is way too short. It took me 15 minutes to connect the small 10 pin connector to the rear of the PCCM, connecting it by feel. 4. You will need a PST2 or PIWIS to code your ecu, if you want map data to display in the instrument display. I used my PIWIS 2 to code the navigation in the instrument control module. 5. I haven’t read any of the manuals yet, but operation is pretty straightforward. 6. I have a Bose system and the sound is amazing, as compared to the CDR23. 7. I would recommend installing a SiriusXM tuner kit. 8. If you have a MOST system, it’s basically plug and play. If not, the PCCM is problematic with grounding and sound issues.
    1 point
  26. Do you have the red clip installed where the convertible top latch normally goes:
    1 point
  27. The correct test for the primary cables is voltage drop rather than resistance. No primary cable should show a drop of 0.5 V, if they do, they should be replaced regardless of what resistance testing shows.
    1 point
  28. From the Lost Radio Code FAQ... I get a WAIT on the display - what do I do? You have to wait at least 30 minutes before trying again.
    1 point
  29. I've receive an answer from a PST2 sellers and specialist on Ebay, Mike, and here's his answer about this error message with the PST2.... "That error is because the URI hardware module does not have the porsche special firmware; the firmware needs to be updated. I would not worry about it, since you're better off testing resistance with a hand-held multimeter. Some users burned out or damaged the motherboards when they tried to test continuity on live circuits, and unlike the PIWIS testers, the PST2 does not have fuse protection."
    1 point
  30. 👍Glad you got it sorted. This is exactly why we always suggest running voltage drop tests on the primary cables, they are a known issue with these cars and even Porsche released "new & improved" cables to try and address the issue.
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. I don’t intend to start the “tire wars” up again, but I ran on Michelin PS2’s year round. It’s not a winter tire, not m+s rated, but rated aa and great in wet weather. 295/30 on the back.
    1 point
  33. P1467 Radiator fans 2: Mechanical fault Possible fault causes: Radiator fans 2 stiff or blocked Radiator fans 2 Faulty
    1 point
  34. It is a fire rated wire clamp holding in one direction only using a toothed surface, patented in 2001 and held by Gripple Ltd., and agricultural fencing and equipment company in Sheffield England. 😉
    1 point
  35. I was able to retrofit a spare wheel with jack and took kit from an older Boxster (986) into my 2007 Cayman (987.1). Clears front lid without touching. Takes up some of the space but I prefer spare and regular tires as opposed to run flat tires.
    1 point
  36. Listen to Loren. he is the expert. He was hinting that you might not need to replace the tensioner. It is a pretty intense job. You have to remove the air filter box, throttle body, loosen and remove the A/C compressor, The Power steering pump /fill reservoir and the Intake manifold cylindrical chambers that connect the 2 intake manifolds. You can remove the left intake manifold to give yourself more room, A lot of cables, air and coolant hoses are also in the way. Once you get to the tensioner and after you remove the pulley of the tensioner, you go around the back side to remove the arm and unbolt the old tensioner. To install the new one, is also a complex process that can end up messing up your mechanicals that are driven by the belt. The power steering pump alone is a nightmare to remove and its reservoir connects to a plastic hose that if you broke it, you will end up paying a fortune to replace. Pay a Porsche dealer not an Indy to do it. trust me. Taking a step back, why do you want to replace the tensioner? Use a Breaker bar to move the tensioner pulley easily. it makes it 90% easier to rotate clockwise. WITH THE BELT ON THE PULLEYS, If you can rotate the serpentine belt to 90 degrees from its normal position between the Alternator and the water pump then your tension is fine. Use Porsche belts. Spend your time AND MONEY on installing a 3rd radiator, it IS a better investment for your engine and your driving experience.
    1 point
  37. I bought these off eBay about a month or two ago. I was impressed by the quality, fit, and price. FOR PORSCHE 911 996 SPEEDO GAUGE RINGS SURROUNDS SET OF 5 Brushed Matt Aluminium ROVER.EBAY.COM PORSCHE 911 996 SERIES (1998-2005) only - all models with the dashboard like shown on the photos only. Box contains: 5x ALUMINIUM DIAL GAUGE RINGS / SURROUNDS Sample Fitting Instructions. Material finish: Brushed Aluminium. Good luck!
    1 point
  38. It connects to a vacuum line that goes to the switching solenoid.
    1 point
  39. Only problem is that the cables corrode internally(where it cannot be seen) on these cars, leading to high resistance and lowered voltages. I would run a voltage drop test across both primary cables; if you see more then 0.5 V drop, you need cables. I would also load test both the battery and alternator, which may have a weak diode that would only show up under load.
    1 point
  40. I can't help with photos, but these diagrams show where the wire is connected at the steering column, and where it runs to on the DME (via a plug/socket).
    1 point
  41. Disconnect the pump 1 electrical connection from the pump, replace the pump 1 fuse, start her up a few times and see if the fuse blows again with #1 pump disconnected. That should give us a clue to what's going on.
    1 point
  42. This has been covered before, but it can be done using a 4" diameter plastic pipe coupler (has a ridge half way down the inside that the old flywheel bolt heads can rest on, then tighten slowly in a crosswise pattern to pull it in evenly.) The trick to getting the new design PTFE seal to work where the older design did not is being absolutely scrupulously clean, not even finger prints on any parts, and no sealant of any kind. You also have to install it at an unusual depth, 13MM from the flywheel mating surface of the crank, not 14MM.
    1 point
  43. I like pictures when I read a DIY, so I made these up to demonstrate what you are in for when you want to change your plugs. Use these pictures in conjunction with the writeup by ebaker...
    1 point
  44. Here is the fix for code 0740 on Tiptronic. After refilling fluid (by the dealer the last time), the code would come back after 100 miles or so. The potential fix from Porsche was a new tansmission, around $7K. Before I spend that kind of money, did some research that lead me to the following for P0740 code: Since the fluid was changed, went to step 3. Here is the location of the pressure regulator and how to remove it. You have to drain the fluid and remove the ATF pan to get to this part, then it will be obvious. There are ATF filter change instuctions in the DIY that will help with additional detail. Part number is 986 352 603 00 I know, it is a Boxter part, but that is the part listed for the 996 too. $220 or so in my hands, easy install. The only difference I did notice post install was how much quicker the transmission will shift upwards. For example, 5th gear could come at 38mph, before the fix it was 48-50mph. Short of that, same smooth shifting. And a heck of a lot cheaper than a new tranny. Hope this saves others some $$ :drive: Izzy
    1 point
  45. There have a been a few occurances of the cabrio top not fully completing the cycle, or simply refusing to open or close. If the hand brake light is on, very likely it is a low hydraulic fluid condition. The work below shows step by step how to add the fluid to the system. Tools needed: 5 mm allen wrench Flat screwdriver Children medicine syringe with small hose 1 Bottle of hydraulic fluid. Porsche is the recommended, I have used John Deere below with no problems after 4 weeks of filling: The steps for the process: 1. Open the top partially to the position shown 2. Pull the cables that the keep the rearmost part of the top secured to the car. One cable per side, the separate the cable from the connection in the car. 3. Let top move towards the close postion and move it out of the way. 4. Use a flat screw driver to remove the 4 plugs that keep the rear carpet in place. Remove the carpet, starting at the top as shown 5. Not a bad time to vacuum this piece while it is out. If you have kids, remove the lollipop sticks :P The work area will look like this: 6. This is the system pump you are looking for. Notice the screw where the Allen wrench will go to. Remove the screw, and keep a magnet pick up tool nearby if it fall down. 7. Use a flashlight on the oppsite side and shine direcly to the reservior. You will be able to clearly see the level and the gap to full. The fullmark is in the front below the screw removed. 8. To fill the top, use the syringe filled with fluid and insert the hose into the hole below. WARNING, the brass washer may fall off if you are not carefull, you can remove it or leave it and chance it. It probably won't move 9. Replace the screw, using fingers first to get it started. Take your time, will not be easy the first round. Finalize withe Allen wrench 10. Replace the carpet (did you clean it?) and the secure it with the plugs. Move the top back in place and secure the cables to the car. Open and close the top a few times. Enjoy the open air And remember, nothing races like a Porsche, but nothing runs like a deer
    1 point
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