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Rather than providing an item number which, over time, will go obsolete, I suggest searching eBay, Amazon, etc using the a combination of the following key words: Universal Radiator Cooling System Pressure Test Tester Kit Using a combination of these words & my photos for comparison, you'll soon find what you're looking for. As I say. this kit appears to be non-branded & sold by many outlets - expect to pay between UK £40 ~ £60. Watch carefully where it being shipped from - especially if you need it within a few days!
Dr Pepper started following Parking brake light stayed on, Coolant Pressure Test Kit - Buyers guide, Interior Heater Fan Speed Control – Manual override and and 1 other
Cayenne 2003 4.5S I needed to pressure test my coolant system to identify a leak that, when hot, could be smelt but not seen & when cold didn't leak! I wanted to buy a Coolant Pressure Test Kit but was not sure which one to buy. During my research, I noticed there was one type of generic non-branded 'universal' kit that appeared multiple times on the general market (eBay & Amazon for instance).. Most listing for this generic kit listed all the car types it would fit but of course, Porsche was not listed - however, a few VAG applications were listed so I took a punt & ordered one of these kits for UK £45.00. The good news is that one of the VAG adapters supplied (#9) fits the Cayenne the header tank & I was able to perform the test on my cold engine & immediately, the leak was apparent. The purpose of my ramblings here is to share with you the kit I bought & the adapter used so you don't have to guess & take a chance as I did. I hope this helps someone. BTW, finally my luck ran out - it was my original plastic coolant pipes that gave up the ghost (there can't be many 2003 models out there still running their original plastic pipes)
Thanks Matt - that makes total sense.. How did you clean your switch may I ask.
2003 4.5 S Interior Heater Fan Speed Control – Manual override. When the exterior temperature is higher than the set interior temperature (which isn’t very often in the UK), the heater fan usually runs flat out with all the associated indication bars illuminated on the centre console display. My question is, can I manually slow the fan speed down & if so, using what settings. I think I’ve tried all the settings (auto, mono, eco, etc). When I manually slow the fan down using the fan toggle switch, the associated indication bars drop too but as soon as I release the switch, the fan immediately speeds up again. I appreciate in auto mode this should happen but I was hoping there would be a semi or fully manual mode too. I cannot see anything that covers this in the owner’s manual. The thing is that I’m sure when I first had this car a few years back, I had the ability to control the fan speed manually & why would there be a toggle switch to control the fan speed otherwise? I’ve recently changed both 12V L/A batteries (under seat & in the boot) – has this forced a change / reset maybe? I can already sense the answers going to be obvious so go gentle on me !
I've attached a picture of the whole circuit board / circuit card which, compared with your photo suggests your surface-mounted device (SMD) is missing - but the detail of my picture is not good enough to see the SMD value. If you still have the SMD that fell off, then look to see if it has numbers printed on the brown / grey ceramic (the middle bit). If you can find these numbers, an internet search should get you the SMD value or PM me & I'll try & get that for you. I have another thought though. Looking at your photo & the state of the solder pads, I have to say that there is very little evidence to suggest there was ever an SMD fitted in this location. The solder pads look too curved for there to have been an SMD mounted on them. Are you 100% sure you are missing an SMD from this location? If you are, all I can say it that the SMD that fell off was never soldered on correctly from new - probably why it fell off.
Febi Bilstein Nº 37820 Amazon UK Stock Nº B00F3CI5DE Here's my Amazon UK 5 star review: Identical replacement for Porsche Cayenne 955 (2003-2006) handbrake foot pedal gas strut. The gas strut that this replaced was the original OEM unit (date coded 2003) & comparing old with new, all the printed ident & safety warnings are identical - the only difference being the date code. I swapped this out in about 15 mins. There's plenty of online tutorials to follow if you're unsure what to do - try renntech.org
On my UK spec 2003 S, I use either socket in the boot - they remain constant live even if the ignition has been of for hours / days (I say this because newer Ford sockets are timed to switch off about an hour after ignition off). Also, I think running the charger wire through the boot shut is also a less convoluted route than running through one of the passenger door shuts.
I wanted to swap-out the standard 5W filament side lights on my 2003 Cayenne S for brighter LED versions. I had a few failed attempts as although many sellers claimed their units were error free, my Cayenne S decided otherwise & still threw-up error messages each time the sidelights were switched-on. All sellers refunded me without quibble – perhaps they knew their error-free claims were a bit of a stretch. Anyhow, problem solved with these units: UK eBay item number 301792310390 - 5W CREE LED 501/W5W CANBUS ERROR FREE SIDELIGHT BULBS Each unit uses 1 x 5w Cree LED chip with projector lens. Supplies address: Car Mod Shop LTD, Unit 6 Dotton Farm, Colaton Raleigh, Sidmouth, Devon, EX100JY United Kingdom Although these lamps only have a single LED facing forward, the projector lens does disperse enough to make the light clearly visible side-on too – especially once installed into the headlight unit.
I totally agree with running CTEK every week - but that will only condition the battery under the seat. You might want to look at this thread too: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49039-2003-cayenne-s-dual-battery-desulphation-charging/?hl=battery
Here’s an update from my original posting I have determined that charging via the under-bonnet terminals or via any 12V Cigarette / Aux socket will only charge the battery located under the seat – it will not charge the battery under the spare wheel. It appears that the battery located under the spare wheel can only be charged via the alternator – so only when the car is running. I have run the CTEK desulphation & recondition cycles & the condition of the battery located under the seat appears to have improved – on the button strong cranking with no error codes thrown up. It holds it charge better – holding 12.2V after a week – this was down around the 11V area previously. I also exposed the battery under the spare wheel & performed a number of tests which showed it only charges with the engine running – this battery was also only holding a charge around the 11V area. To gain quick & easy electrical access to the battery under the spare wheel, I hard wired to it, a 12V Cigarette / Aux socket - a modified male / female 12V extension lead. This was wired directly onto the battery terminals, feeding the wires through one of the existing rubber grommets so not to compromise the battery box itself. The wire runs alongside existing already protected wires & the socket rests alongside the bottle of Porsche tyre sealant – so safe, out of sight but easy to access. Oh yes, I fitted an in-line fuse right next to the battery +ve terminal too. Having gained easy electrical access to the battery under the spare wheel, I again ran the CTEK desulphation & recondition cycles & the condition of this battery also appears to have improved – now holding 12.5V after a week. Early days I agree – but I’m happy with the results seen so far & now, if I know the car’s going to be idle for a while, I can trickle-charge both batteries (not at the same time) via a lead I can have running out under the closed tailgate (there’s enough ‘give’ in the runner seal not to crush it) to the CTEK located in my porch. As I side issue, I’ve also used my CTEK to desulphate & recondition an 8 year old Silver Calcium battery fitted in a Ford Diesel – again, the cranking is now noticeably stronger. With a seldom used Mk1 Cortina in my garage too, I'm reckoning on this CTEK getting a lot of use.
Thanks for posting this extract Loren - it does fill some gaps in my knowledge but I'm still not clear which, in their words, is the main battery and the backup (2nd) battery - but unless I'm told otherwise, I'll assume for now that the backup (2nd) battery is the one under the spare wheel. This point is interesting: The backup battery is disconnected from the vehicle electrical system when the engine is switched off Based on this statement, it sounds that unless the battery terminals are physically accessed, it's not possible to charge the the backup (2nd) battery except by running the engine - which means my idea of being able to keep both batteries fully charged using the CTEK in maintenance mode is scuppered. Plan B then: For the main battery, I should still be able to desulphate / charge / maintain via the charging terminals in the engine compartment. For the backup (2nd) battery, I'll disconnect it (to be safe), desulphate, punch as much charge in it as the CTEK will allow & then see if it'll hold a higher charge for longer periods. I'll report on how this works out in a few weeks.
After standing for a week or two, my Cayenne’s battery power drops - the engine starts but the cranking is slow, it’s creating temporary dash error messages & the comfort settings reset to factory – not good. I don’t know the age of the current batteries – there’s no record of them ever being changed – so I was about to bite the bullet & buy 2 new batteries at a cost of approx. GBP 300.00. Then I got to read a number of accounts saying that sulphation is the principal cause of power loss in lead-acid batteries & that this effect can be reversed – seemingly dead or dying batteries can often be recovered. So, rather than buying two new batteries, I’ve first ordered a CTEK charger which runs desulphation cycles. CTEK state that their chargers are safe for the Cayenne electrical / computer system – whether in desulphation, full charge or maintenance mode - so if I end up having to buy 2 new batteries anyhow, then at least I have a decent charger in my workshop. Q1 - When I connect my CTEK to the charging terminals in the engine compartment, will I be connecting with both batteries? Q2 - If I connect my CTEK to any of the 12V auxiliary / cigarette sockets (for low amp maintenance), will this connect with both batteries? Q3 - My understanding is that the battery under the seat provides the cranking power & the (full size) battery under the spare wheel provides power for everything else. To me this is the logical option but I’ve also read accounts stating the exact opposite. Which is right? Any advice on how to maintain a dual battery option & how it works as opposed to the single battery option would be much appreciated.
.... and for anyone else still unsure, search "Electric Mirror Switch Controls Both Mirrors :o(" within this forum - or read the owners manual.
Dr Pepper replied to ictguy's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)I had the mirror glass out my 2003 S a few weeks ago to replace the ‘puddle light’ bulb. I found a tutorial from I-don’t-know-where but basically: Using the mirror position rocker switch, tilt the mirror glass so it’s looking as much as possible towards the car door Get your fingers between the mirror shell & in behind the mirror glass Gently pull the mirror glass out of the mirror shell - the retaining clips will yield - eventually To replace the mirror glass, just align the mirror glass with the aperture & push back in – it will click back in place. Being gentle is key as there are wires running to the mirror glass that you don’t want to snap off. I didn’t need to remove the mirror glass from the car so I cannot comment on disconnecting the wires completely. If I recall, the retaining clips are plastic, so as for all plastic clips, don't do this job if it's too cold. Plastic clips & the cold are can be a bad mix as there's a higher risk they snap in the cold..
Trip Reset Button - Repair Tutorial Repair Tutorial per attached pdf document. Trip Reset Button - Repair Tutorial.pdf Author Dr Pepper Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 02/22/2015 08:56 AM Updated 03/11/2017 06:22 AM