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OK, so I bought the car and within the 5 weeks of ownership, had so many issues, enough was enough. The last straw was the prop shaft bearing failing. The car had only done 50,000 miles!! Anyway, cut my losses and sold it - the 5 weeks of owning a 10 year old Cayenne lost me about £3250. I will never buy an old Porsche again. Next time (if ever), it'll be new!! Thanks for all of the help from people on here over the last few weeks. A great forum with great, knowledgable members! Just wish I had come across it BEFORE I bought the 10 year old 'tractor'.
Well, confirmed. The prop shaft bearing had failed. Started to drive the car to a garage first thing, but decided to call breakdown recovery to get it transported there - didn't want to cause any more damage! They managed to fit a universal bearing, breaking the prop shaft and reassembling it. All fixed. Another £280 spent!! Are there any other common problems I should expect on a 2004 Cayenne 3.2 v6?? Car has done 55,000 miles.
That's the first thing I did. I honestly thought a wheel was loose.... They were all tight though. This really is consistent with the drive shaft bearing failing. Looks like I'll have to wait till Monday to get this confirmed though.
Thanks, could I cause more damage by driving it to a repairer?
When I search, I get all kinds of hits - drive shaft bearing, bushes, shock absorber problems....... Are you suggesting I need a new drive shaft or just the bearing?
Started today. Put my foot down and heard a knocking noise and felt it through the floor of the car. Seems to be getting worse and now have a loud knocking noise transmitted through the centre armrest (can really feel this through my arm) over every bump. Putting the car in neutral whilst it's moving still presents the knocking when going over road bumps. Could this be suspension related?????? This car has only done 55,000 miles!!!!!
All fixed with the resistors!
Blimey, no wonder the car is so bloody heavy!! Does this have to be carried out periodically?
Thanks Ahsai, good point. I will buy these ones (UK based company) - http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=310224122296 Doesn't say 8ohms, but does mention in place of a 21W bulb, so bound to be close. Would have preferred 2 25W resistors in series to help dissipate the heat, but I won't be on the brakes for too long and will mount these to the metal bodywork behind the tail light unit.
Thanks, I will measure the resistNce across the LED's and add one in parallel to them to match the resistance of the 21Watt bulb. I remember that 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2
Thought I'd share my experience to help stop anybody making the same mistake I made - Bought new discs and pads and had a good friend help me fit them. That was the first mistake, should have got a garage to do it.... Both my friend and I have changed pads on many cars and motorbikes and thought nothing of removing the callipers. Started with the front right side, removed the two M16 bolts holding the calliper to the hub arm. The bolts were very corroded and as a result, the thread was stripped on one of the bolts and the hub arm (not sure if that's what's called, maybe a knuckle thing). I did read about helicoiling or time-serting to get a new thread but decided to get the car to a garage instead. They basically said that the calliper doesn't need to be removed to put pads in. Oh my God, wish I had known that first. Anyway, they wouldn't repair the thread, too safety critical they said. The loading is too much and they were only prepared to purchase a new hub arm thing from Porsche, plus therefore needed a new wheel bearing aswell. So the mistake cost in excess of £550 to fix. Lesson learned!! Moral of the story - don't remove the calliper to change the pads OR, better still, leave it to the professional mechanics.
All brake discs & pads have now been replaced. The rear parking brake shoes basically fell apart... Must have been those.
That would probably require some elaborate reprogramming, which would not be easy, and becomes questionable from a liability standpoint as you are involving mandated safety systems. Surely no different to putting a load resister across the LED though? Effectively fooling the canbus into thinking there is a filament bulb in place. Do you know if the left/right brake lights are monitored separately or is the message I am getting because either/both are 'out'?
Is it possible to make the checking of the brake lights inactive in the canbus system? Is there a device I could purchase to change these settings? Thanks for your support.
Thanks, I will contact the suppliers of the unit. Surprised it doesn't have a load resistor built in though. Do you think this would help if I could break the wiring and put it in? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=261170139838