rockhouse66

I bought a used set of Techarts for my 996 Cab that were intended for a coupe.  Techart also lists a different number for coupe vs. cab.  I found some installation info on line that suggested to me that the only difference is either a thicker or double spacer for the rear shock to raise the rear ride height slightly to compensate for the extra weight.  I had H&Rs on previously and measuring them against the Techart springs for comparison they are essentially the same spring in free length, number of coils and diameter of coils.

If anything, the Techarts sit a little lower in the front than the H&Rs did, i.e. too low to be practical on my roads.  I had a pair of spacers made to replace the upper part of the front assembly but have not yet installed them.  I am only looking for another 1/2" in ride height in the front or the front may start to look higher than the rear.

As noted above, I wish I had just gone straight to coilovers and been able to adjust ride height for taste and practicality.

The AOS, coolant tank and water pump are preventive maintenance items you could ask about.

I am about to replace my clock stem as well so watching this with interest.

What device or technique did you use to remove the speaker on the left side of the dash?  Mine is really snug and I am concerned about forcing something in to lift it up as I am sure it will scratch the finish.

On 3/28/2017 at 7:27 AM, wthensler said:

I'd probably do it while I had access to everything, but that's just me.  Just curious what your clutch looked like after 80k.  I'm sitting at 61k and thinking at 90 I'll take everything out and replace (RMS, IMS, clutch, plate, flywheel, etc).  I have an early '99 (bought new) and have never had a problem with leaks or the dreaded IMS (nor the clutch for that matter), and I drive it daily and change the oil at 5-7k. And I don't baby it.

I changed the clutch on my '04 at 70K miles because I was doing the IMS/RMS thing and it was only about 1/3 worn so would have been good for many more miles.  All depends on how it is driven though.

I am baffled by the arithmetic on your car.  Only 3K miles per year but daily driven?  That's 9 miles per day!

PSM was an option.  I have a 2004 C2 and the PSM is on the option list.  When I was looking for a 2002 or newer 996, PSM was on my options wish list and many of the cars I looked at did not have it.  There might be a special model, like maybe a C4S, that has PSM as standard equipment but it is part of a model upgrade package.

BTW, you list the VIN as WPOCA.... and I am pretty sure that 3rd character is always zero, not  "O".

If someone has the actual mix info, is there a difference between Lapis Blue L3A8 and Lapis Blue M5W9?  Apparently the code for Lapis Blue changed MY03 but did the paint color actually change as well?  My paint code sticker on my 2004 calls it metallic but I have also seen this later M5W9 referred to as pearl so are they different?

Maybe my "rear plastic plate" is really something originally supplied to support a front plate??  And maybe the washers go along with the plate on the front?  Makes more sense than having an extra plate in the rear now that I think about it.

Congrats on completing the job.  I did the same.  AOS was the hardest part IMO.  I used "guide pins" in the block (made from bolts with the heads cut off) to help with the gearbox install.  It ensures you are lined up square, which is kind of hard to be sure of when working alone under the car.  The fine splines on the input shaft don't help either, as far as getting the thing engaged properly in the clutch disc.

I have 1500 miles on my work now with no issues or leaks so I am starting to relax!  Best of luck with yours.

On my car, there are two washers like that behind the rear license plate plastic plate.  Between the plate and the body.  Not sure how one would end up where you found it though?  Anyway, another place to look.

So apparently these are actually vacuum lines not fuel lines.  I just spent 45 minutes at a Porsche dealer parts counter with no success identifying this item.  He suggested I remove the clip and try to find a number molded into it.  To do this, I think I need to lower engine for better access.

Before I go to this trouble, I am bumping this in hopes of some help with the p/n please.

I want to replace the two plastic fuel line clips on the LH side of the engine compartment (which I partially broke struggling with replacement of the coolant tank).  I thought I had these figured out as p/n 999 507 521 40 but these are not correct.  I would also appreciate some tips on how these are fastened.  There appears to be sort of a plastic pin on the RH side of the clip - how does that come out?  (not much room in that area either)

It is the clip at the top of this photo that retains the fuel line and some other stuff.

I use one of these to jump the switch.  Nice and tidy and easy to do/undo by feel.  Not as cheap as a paper clip but handy to have in the glove box just in case.

The mod you are describing is the same as the Fister mod.  You can buy modified mufflers from Fister outright or exchange, or it can be done by a muffler shop.  Many owners have done this and report satisfaction with the sound.

I don't think this is the same as the PSE exhaust routing, which actually has two inlets and one of them bypasses a portion of the muffler internal baffling.

1 hour ago, DBJoe996 said:

I concur with the $3K cost of retrofit and clutch assembly.  There are another couple of recommended things to add to the list while the engine is out - consider the age of the car (16 years) and service record.  It is very easy to replace the AOS, spark plugs and coil packs while the engine is out, but a real PITA to do with the engine in the car.  Also have the O-rings under the oil cooler replaced as well.  Another item(s) that do not age well and can give some trouble is the oil filler pipe, plastic vacuum tank and coolant tank.  These items are relatively inexpensive and doing them while the engine is out is highly recommended.  You could also throw in new motor mounts and transmission mount inserts.

Those are all good suggestions but you don't have to drop the engine to do the IMS/RMS and clutch.  I'm sure you know this but didn't want andrewjt19 to think otherwise.

Replacing the water pump and serpentine belt would be other items that are worth doing and can be done with the engine in the car.

Of course, if you buy a car with complete service records you can make judgement calls on whether it is time to do these PM items or not.  Lacking those records, it would be prudent to do as many as you can afford to do soon after purchase to start building a service record for the car and head off potential problems.

I have done the  whole enchilada. IMS, RMS. AOS,  spin on filter, water pump, coolant tank,  serpentine belt, clutch, motor mounts, oil analysis, sump inspection, etc.  I think I will just consider my work "done". 

Thanks for the input from all this experience and knowledge.  I have done a lot of PM work DIY and have been successful with it so I guess I am feeling a little cocky about digging deeper.  I think I will just leave well enough alone, as I can't really address all of the possible failure modes without a complete rebuild of what is currently a great running, no issues engine.

I have tried to address as many components as I can to reduce the risk of a failure.  The only thing left that seems to fit in the preventive maintenance category is the timing chain, which some have reported could break without warning.  I'm not eager to do the job but also don't want to overlook a weak point that I could address.  Is there some way to determine the condition of the chain?

I understand that with the availability of a master link style timing chain, the chain can be replaced with the engine in the car.  Has anyone attempted this and, if so, any tips?

I am considering a proactive replacement.  Can the condition of the chain be determined by timing deviations or can you see the chain by removal of some component to assess condition?

My car is a 2002 C2 with manual transmission.

At that mileage a water pump replacement would be good preventive maintenance.  Even if that proves to not be the source of this specific leak, it is time and the possible consequences of a WP failure make this an easy decision IMO. 

Since I started this thread, I will comment that I now have about 1500 miles on the work I did and all good.  I feel as though I have done all I could reasonably do preventatively to avoid an issue, so now I will just drive it and see what comes.  Well....then there is that **** timing chain. 

I don't know the right answer to this but I do know that in big city life, mixed with a lot of long highway miles (travelling salesman), 35 MPH was about all I averaged.  (not in a P car - maybe I would have averaged 60 MPH if I had one as a company car)

The dual row has an internal clip that you can't see.  Read the LN Engineering installation instructions and you will see what I'm talking about.

Easy to find used ones on eBay.  This seller is first rate in all my dealings with them - fair price, fast shipment and great packing too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-Carrera-911-RWD-Porsche-996-Coupe-L-R-REAR-SHOCKS-STRUTS-SPRINGS-67-519-/272243425681?hash=item3f62f90191:g:hqsAAOSw3mpXN7pl&vxp=mtr

Sounds bizarre!  On a related note, is there supposed to be a flash on the dash when the PSM activates?  I have never seen it on my 2004 C2 and I have managed to get myself in some situations where I expected it!

Never mind - I think I figured out my problem and it was just a mistake on my part.  I would delete this post if I could figure out how.