Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
My spoiler is a factory XAG option code, described simply as "Carrera Spoiler" on the build sheet. Looks like this:
I don't mean to start an argument with this, but just adding some info. My '04 Cab has the optional factory side skirts and rear wing. I have studied the 2004 Cab option list and apparently no front spoiler was available so this is as close as the original purchaser could come to buying an "aerokit" for this car. Porsche must have considered this combination of parts OK w/o a front spoiler. I also question whether the aero imbalance issue is relevant at normal speeds and might only come into play at Autobahn speeds (as in 100 MPH plus)?
Is the system the same as on a 996? If so, the most common cause seems to be the vent valve contraption just below the filler neck. I had the same symptom and replacing this vent valve fixed my 2004 996. Mine didn't throw a CEL though, just wouldn't start after fill up.
Yeah, me too! The car is still on the lift and messing around at the front I think the RF wheel bearing needs to be replaced. Sounds scratchy when spun (and no, it isn't dragging on the rotor - this is with caliper/rotor removed). So, I get to use my tools again. And this should be a piece of cake without the drive shaft to deal with.?
OK, I am all done except for final torque on the axle nut. The tools worked fine. The job, as a whole, was a physically tough PIA for me. Working the axle shafts out and back in, dealing with the hub removal from the bearing, etc. This is working alone but with a lift. If this really is a 2 hr. per side labor charge at the Porsche dealer, I would recommend just paying them to do it. I would love to watch this job done in 2 hrs. per side. BTW - would it be good practice to put some anti-seize on the axle threads or just leave it dry? 340 ft-lbs seems like it would like some lube.
Yes. Works fine from the switch. Windows go up after about a 2 second delay.
Excuse my impatience, but no thoughts on the fix for this? Or maybe my car never had this feature (though it appears in the owners manual)?
It would be really convenient to be able to exit the car with the top down and close it up completely while standing at the door. I would like to make it functional if I can figure out where to start. I suspect it could be something in the door lock itself, or maybe in the top latch or even the dash button area.....?????
I think that when I raise the top on my '04 C2 Cab using the key in the door, at the conclusion of the top locking process I should be able to hold the key in position and raise the windows. Right? Mine won't do that, though everything else about the top and window operation functions as it should. Where should I start to troubleshoot this?
Well, right or wrong, I bought the CTA 8650 tool kit, which I think is a knockoff of the SIR kit. It was under $300 delivered. I have also purchased the bearings from Sunset to do both rear wheels. It will be a while before I get to this project but, when I do, I'll provide some feedback on the tools and anything helpful to future DIYers that I learn. Thanks for the input from members.
Nice tool. Are either of you suggesting that the work is best done with the upright off the car plus a small expensive pile of pullers? It does look a little involved to be doing on the car but I thought that was the point of the SIR tool set?
I have read the DIY and old posts until I am cross-eyed. I think I have a handle on this but, just to be sure, would someone in the know just review my list please? I have a hydraulic press. It seems I have the choice of removing the carrier/hub and R&R the bearing using my press OR if I purchase a bearing removal kit like the SIR tools I can do this work with the carrier still mounted to the car. Is this correct? I am actually leaning towards buying the tools just to minimize the amount of parts I have to remove. I have read there are bearings with a magnetic disc inside for the speed sensor and that this needs to be correctly oriented. I have also read this applies to 2005 & newer cars so this is a non-issue with my 2004? Confirm please. I have read the bearing sourcing discussions and I'm sure the F A G or NTN equivalents are fine, but for the money I plan to use the Porsche part. Doesn't sound like a job one would want to do over and I'm hoping using the Porsche bearing will ensure this doesn't happen. Any other comments or suggestions before I dive in?
I wasn't suggesting a hardware store bearing. The RND roller bearing is sold by LN, alongside the ball bearing and sleeve bearing options.
I also went with the roller bearing. RND retrofit in my case. Time will tell if we made a good decision, but I think a car with a lot of miles on it and the original IMS bearing will likely do fine with pretty much any new bearing you use. The LN "Solution" is clearly the superior approach. It was not well advertised (or, in my case, understood) when I did my retrofit.