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Everything posted by rockhouse66

  1. I had oil residue in that area above the spark plugs and on top of the right rear cylinder head. That corrugated line, It. 4 in the diagram posted, apparently had some minute cracks in it and was seeping. I replaced that line and solved the problem. Admittedly, I replaced the AOS at the same time so can't say for sure it was just the oil line but it had to contribute for the oil to get to that location.
  2. I can tell you that my 996.2 had those exact symptoms and no CEL. Replacing the vent valve at the filler fixed the problem. I can't say how your car differs from mine, except that I would rather have yours!
  3. Keep an eye on the O2 sensor cables when dropping the engine down to be sure they don't reach their limit of travel.
  4. I have a similar situation as Mr. Whitney. My 2004 996 originally sold in Canada has the fog lights on all the time. I removed the relay to kill them (permanently) but would like to return them to switchable. There is actually a wire cut at the headlight switch that I suspect is the fog light wire.
  5. As you probably found, actually replacing the IMSB is easier than all of the rest of the work to get to that point. I think you are home free.
  6. My spoiler is a factory XAG option code, described simply as "Carrera Spoiler" on the build sheet. Looks like this:
  7. I don't mean to start an argument with this, but just adding some info. My '04 Cab has the optional factory side skirts and rear wing. I have studied the 2004 Cab option list and apparently no front spoiler was available so this is as close as the original purchaser could come to buying an "aerokit" for this car. Porsche must have considered this combination of parts OK w/o a front spoiler. I also question whether the aero imbalance issue is relevant at normal speeds and might only come into play at Autobahn speeds (as in 100 MPH plus)?
  8. Is the system the same as on a 996? If so, the most common cause seems to be the vent valve contraption just below the filler neck. I had the same symptom and replacing this vent valve fixed my 2004 996. Mine didn't throw a CEL though, just wouldn't start after fill up.
  9. Yeah, me too! The car is still on the lift and messing around at the front I think the RF wheel bearing needs to be replaced. Sounds scratchy when spun (and no, it isn't dragging on the rotor - this is with caliper/rotor removed). So, I get to use my tools again. And this should be a piece of cake without the drive shaft to deal with.?
  10. OK, I am all done except for final torque on the axle nut. The tools worked fine. The job, as a whole, was a physically tough PIA for me. Working the axle shafts out and back in, dealing with the hub removal from the bearing, etc. This is working alone but with a lift. If this really is a 2 hr. per side labor charge at the Porsche dealer, I would recommend just paying them to do it. I would love to watch this job done in 2 hrs. per side. BTW - would it be good practice to put some anti-seize on the axle threads or just leave it dry? 340 ft-lbs seems like it would like some lube.
  11. Yes. Works fine from the switch. Windows go up after about a 2 second delay.
  12. Excuse my impatience, but no thoughts on the fix for this? Or maybe my car never had this feature (though it appears in the owners manual)?
  13. It would be really convenient to be able to exit the car with the top down and close it up completely while standing at the door. I would like to make it functional if I can figure out where to start. I suspect it could be something in the door lock itself, or maybe in the top latch or even the dash button area.....?????
  14. I think that when I raise the top on my '04 C2 Cab using the key in the door, at the conclusion of the top locking process I should be able to hold the key in position and raise the windows. Right? Mine won't do that, though everything else about the top and window operation functions as it should. Where should I start to troubleshoot this?
  15. Well, right or wrong, I bought the CTA 8650 tool kit, which I think is a knockoff of the SIR kit. It was under $300 delivered. I have also purchased the bearings from Sunset to do both rear wheels. It will be a while before I get to this project but, when I do, I'll provide some feedback on the tools and anything helpful to future DIYers that I learn. Thanks for the input from members.
  16. Nice tool. Are either of you suggesting that the work is best done with the upright off the car plus a small expensive pile of pullers? It does look a little involved to be doing on the car but I thought that was the point of the SIR tool set?
  17. I have read the DIY and old posts until I am cross-eyed. I think I have a handle on this but, just to be sure, would someone in the know just review my list please? I have a hydraulic press. It seems I have the choice of removing the carrier/hub and R&R the bearing using my press OR if I purchase a bearing removal kit like the SIR tools I can do this work with the carrier still mounted to the car. Is this correct? I am actually leaning towards buying the tools just to minimize the amount of parts I have to remove. I have read there are bearings with a magnetic disc inside for the speed sensor and that this needs to be correctly oriented. I have also read this applies to 2005 & newer cars so this is a non-issue with my 2004? Confirm please. I have read the bearing sourcing discussions and I'm sure the F A G or NTN equivalents are fine, but for the money I plan to use the Porsche part. Doesn't sound like a job one would want to do over and I'm hoping using the Porsche bearing will ensure this doesn't happen. Any other comments or suggestions before I dive in?
  18. I wasn't suggesting a hardware store bearing. The RND roller bearing is sold by LN, alongside the ball bearing and sleeve bearing options.
  19. I also went with the roller bearing. RND retrofit in my case. Time will tell if we made a good decision, but I think a car with a lot of miles on it and the original IMS bearing will likely do fine with pretty much any new bearing you use. The LN "Solution" is clearly the superior approach. It was not well advertised (or, in my case, understood) when I did my retrofit.
  20. Did "detailing the heck out of it" include spraying cleaner and water in the engine bay?
  21. My info is all 996 so the 997 could be different, but I think the part you are talking about is Item 19 in this diagram. I have also attached the page with the p/n, which notes as being for a C4S (these have a center radiator, right?). My '04 996 had evidence of having had this piece installed at one time but I don't know why, since it is a C2. I hope this helps you get some info on this. If I were you, I would just buy this part and replace your damaged one. As you have agreed, Porsche put it there for a reason.
  22. I hope you get a definitive answer on this. My 2004 996 C2 has the slots under the front bumper cover. I have found the rubber deflector in the parts catalog before (though i can't find it right now) but it is listed a being a C4 part. I find this odd, because I think the C4 bumper cover is different than my C2, so why does my bumper have the slots? I have been told it is there on cars with a center radiator and that it enhances airflow through that 3rd radiator. Don't know if that is true or not.
  23. I had an issue like this with a non-Porsche and found the rubber brake line on the offending side had swollen internally and restricted the brake fluid flow to the caliper. Not sure Porsche's are susceptible to this but another thing to check. Does it bleed like it should, with good flow when you crack the bleeder?
  24. I bought a used set of Techarts for my 996 Cab that were intended for a coupe. Techart also lists a different number for coupe vs. cab. I found some installation info on line that suggested to me that the only difference is either a thicker or double spacer for the rear shock to raise the rear ride height slightly to compensate for the extra weight. I had H&Rs on previously and measuring them against the Techart springs for comparison they are essentially the same spring in free length, number of coils and diameter of coils. If anything, the Techarts sit a little lower in the front than the H&Rs did, i.e. too low to be practical on my roads. I had a pair of spacers made to replace the upper part of the front assembly but have not yet installed them. I am only looking for another 1/2" in ride height in the front or the front may start to look higher than the rear. As noted above, I wish I had just gone straight to coilovers and been able to adjust ride height for taste and practicality.
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