Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
If not M1 OW40 then what oil / weight would I want to use?
I replaced the three external tensioners, failry easy job, what level of difaculty woul the paddle replacment be. P.S thanks for this input.
Not the tensioners! I replaced the tensioners and still have the rattle, I also dissected the oil filter and it is perfectly clean not debris at all with about 2500 mile on the oil - filter. could this be the IMS with no debris? or ???
I have been on the rennlist forum and I think I have the answer i was looking for. Pin the crank at TDC and replace one by one after priming the new tensioner with fresh oil.. I will have the parts in a week or so and will follow up with the results.
Hello to all, I am ready to replace my timing chain tensioners, the three external tensioners. I was planing to order the P253 tools to hold the cams in place but I posted some questions regarding the procedure on the Pelican Parts forum and had a response that told me that it is not necessary to do so. The procedure explained was to simply replace the tensioners one at a time starting with the IMS chain tensioner, soak the new tensioner in fresh oil and pump it in order to prime it. has anyone done this procedure, I am not comfortable pulling the tensioners with out locking the cams in place. I will repeat the post I placed on the Pelican forum as fallows. in reading Wayne's right up on the Pelican sight (cam replacement and timing chain tensioner replacement ) the questions had where. I understand that TDC for cylinder 1 and cylinder 4 are 360 degree off, can I lock both cans in place at one time and if not which side do I lock in place for the IMS chain tensioner? The issue with my car came from it sitting for six months (broken left foot) and on start up it their was a rattle. After lots of thought and stress I am certain the issue is a stuck chain tensioner.
You may have read my post several months ago (death rattle). I have been unable to drive my 1999 996 c2 for over six months due to a badly broken left foot and I am now ready to proceed with replacing the chain tensioners as I am 99% certain that the noise was a stuck tensioner. I am planing on dissecting the filter in order to look for debris from a possible IMS issue as well. I have a list of other upgrades I am planing on, IMS / RMS to begin with but at this point I feel I need to get the car running for my own mental health and the health of the seals and other parts that go bad when a car sits for a long period of time. Do I need to go through any special procedure be for starting the car after the work is done, once again it has not been started for over six months.
I am preparing do the IMS retrofit, I am also going to replace the chain tensioners. There is a write up on this on the pelican parts site. This project will require the p253 camshaft timing tool, Pelican shows this tool as not currently unavailable. I was able to find the tool on other sites for $200 to $250. Does anyone know of a source that is more reasonable?
In regards to my pervious post regarding my 1999 996 C2 coupe 6 spd.( IMS "death rattle" ? ) I have though a lot about this and the noise is most likely a chain tensioner but I am going to go forward with my diagnostics and drain the oil, remove the filter and dissect it for evidence of debris. I will most likely pull the pan and up date it with the deeper pan, as I am planning on keeping the car for a long time. I bought this car with track days in mind as a replacement for the sport bikes I had for track days (getting to old for injuries) I want to do all the necessary upgrades on the drive train before I get into the suspension. There seems to be quite a list for MY 99. This is what I have found. RMS IMS bearing Chain tensioners Oil pan Replace , clutch and related parts I would appreciate any additions to this list as well as the best source for parts / tools. I run modil 1 0- W – 40, changed every 3000 miles. Is there a better oil or weight I should run. On another note my brother has a 2005 Boxter S and recently had the transmission replaced, he had an issue with it popping out of 2nd gear. I don't know what the issue was but I would like to know if I should have a concern with my transmission or diff option codes 220 locking dif. 40% / 224 ABD. I will change the fluid in the transaxle when it is out of the car so I should also like to know the best fluid to use. Thanks for the info on my previous post and all the other info found on this forum, As my father has told me years ago when I bought my 74 carrara "old 911s never die they just go faster" I would like to prove him right.
I have a 1999 996 C2 6 speed, My car has been sitting for about three months due to my broken left foot, I have started it about 3 times and let it run for a bit to keep the battery charged and the seals wet. As a note my car has 89K on it and is a weeked car, In 4 1/2 years I have put 18K on it. This past weekend I started it an could instantley here a rattle or more of a clack - clack - clack, I shut the engine off right away. I have always changed the oil every 3K . I have read the write up in Excellence magazine on the IMS failures and it sound like this could be the issue. I have read the write ups on Pelican Parts and the L & N engineering sites and I am trying to understand if I can do the IMS retro fit or if the engine is done. I sounds the same as before other than the rattle, the idle is as smoothe as before
Thanks Loren, I appriciate the help.
It's time for my California smog check so I must remove the K&N air intake and reinstall the stock air box, I am faily certain I will need to diconnect the battrie inorder to reset the CPU, The question I have is, how many miles will I need to drive to reset the obd codes before I can pass smog. I just got my Reg. info yesterday and must get the smog ckeck on monday as I am having screws put in my left foot on tuesday and will not be able to drive my car for three months ( Can't use the clutch with a cast)
I have noticed a rattle or tick at start up for the last few months, my car is not my driven more than once or twice a week at the most, the the sound is coming from the right side and sound like valve train noise (alot like my 944 did with bad lifter) I washed the car yesterday and today at startup the tick was worse and did not go away as it had in the past in a short time. could this be timing chane rattle or a bad chane guide, I have read some posts and I under stand this could be bad. HELP :(
:help: :help: All I can think of is that I washed the car and let it sit for Four or five days,(not a daily driver) When I drove it today It did not sound right. I seem to hear a mechanical noise coming from the left bank ayt the front. :help: Note I do have A K&N cold air intake and B&B exhaust
:help: Hi, I have just completed an engine swap in my son's 1983 944, we found a 50,000 mile engine out of a 1985 944. The engine runs great but the temp gauge reads that the engine is running hot. There is a difference in the senders for the coolant gauge, the unit in the 85 engine is an internal probe as it threads through the block and in to the coolant galley and is (wet). The sender in the 83 engine is a dead plug in to the block, dose not go through the the block in to the coolant galley and it is not (wet). I believe the sender in the 85 engine sends a different signal do to it's nature and is sending a false signal to the gauge. So this is how I have diagnosed this problem in order to come to this conclusion. First of the cooling fan dose not come on until the temp gauge is almost in the (red) and will shut off with the gauge just below the (red) zone on the gauge. the engine has never been hot enough to pop the over flow (The coolant tank has a new cap and the fan sender switch is almost new and worked correctly with the old engine in the car) This has been frustrating as no one seems to have an answer for this. So the next thing we did is to make a fitting to connect a hose to the bleed screw hole and allow coolant to drain into a catch bottle with my wife's meat thermometer (much to her dismay) in the catch bottle, we ran the engine through the heat cycle with the fan turning on at 190 and shutting off at about 180. This tells me the sender is sending the wrong signal to the gauge. Any help on how I can tell if this is the case and how to fix the issue would be appreciated, ( I have talked to the tech at my local dealer and he had no idea how to fix this or if my assumptions are correct)
1983 944 5 speed project car: I have been building this car for my son, great car but there are a few problems. First- the head light doors went up and stayed up the first time they where used, I have replaced the relay with no luck in fact it started to melt the wires as soon as i hit the switch. do i need a new motor or could this be something else? I am also looking at rebuilding the steering rack (not power steering) as the steering is a bit vage and maby a bit stiff,has any one done a rebuild on the non power rack.