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Everything posted by hindswillrox

  1. If not M1 OW40 then what oil / weight would I want to use?
  2. I replaced the three external tensioners, failry easy job, what level of difaculty woul the paddle replacment be. P.S thanks for this input.
  3. Not the tensioners! I replaced the tensioners and still have the rattle, I also dissected the oil filter and it is perfectly clean not debris at all with about 2500 mile on the oil - filter. could this be the IMS with no debris? or ???
  4. I have been on the rennlist forum and I think I have the answer i was looking for. Pin the crank at TDC and replace one by one after priming the new tensioner with fresh oil.. I will have the parts in a week or so and will follow up with the results.
  5. Hello to all, I am ready to replace my timing chain tensioners, the three external tensioners. I was planing to order the P253 tools to hold the cams in place but I posted some questions regarding the procedure on the Pelican Parts forum and had a response that told me that it is not necessary to do so. The procedure explained was to simply replace the tensioners one at a time starting with the IMS chain tensioner, soak the new tensioner in fresh oil and pump it in order to prime it. has anyone done this procedure, I am not comfortable pulling the tensioners with out locking the cams in p
  6. You may have read my post several months ago (death rattle). I have been unable to drive my 1999 996 c2 for over six months due to a badly broken left foot and I am now ready to proceed with replacing the chain tensioners as I am 99% certain that the noise was a stuck tensioner. I am planing on dissecting the filter in order to look for debris from a possible IMS issue as well. I have a list of other upgrades I am planing on, IMS / RMS to begin with but at this point I feel I need to get the car running for my own mental health and the health of the seals and other parts that go bad when a car
  7. I am preparing do the IMS retrofit, I am also going to replace the chain tensioners. There is a write up on this on the pelican parts site. This project will require the p253 camshaft timing tool, Pelican shows this tool as not currently unavailable. I was able to find the tool on other sites for $200 to $250. Does anyone know of a source that is more reasonable?
  8. In regards to my pervious post regarding my 1999 996 C2 coupe 6 spd.( IMS "death rattle" ? ) I have though a lot about this and the noise is most likely a chain tensioner but I am going to go forward with my diagnostics and drain the oil, remove the filter and dissect it for evidence of debris. I will most likely pull the pan and up date it with the deeper pan, as I am planning on keeping the car for a long time. I bought this car with track days in mind as a replacement for the sport bikes I had for track days (getting to old for injuries) I want to do all the necessary upgrades on the driv
  9. I have a 1999 996 C2 6 speed, My car has been sitting for about three months due to my broken left foot, I have started it about 3 times and let it run for a bit to keep the battery charged and the seals wet. As a note my car has 89K on it and is a weeked car, In 4 1/2 years I have put 18K on it. This past weekend I started it an could instantley here a rattle or more of a clack - clack - clack, I shut the engine off right away. I have always changed the oil every 3K . I have read the write up in Excellence magazine on the IMS failures and it sound like this could be the issue. I have read
  10. It's time for my California smog check so I must remove the K&N air intake and reinstall the stock air box, I am faily certain I will need to diconnect the battrie inorder to reset the CPU, The question I have is, how many miles will I need to drive to reset the obd codes before I can pass smog. I just got my Reg. info yesterday and must get the smog ckeck on monday as I am having screws put in my left foot on tuesday and will not be able to drive my car for three months ( Can't use the clutch with a cast)
  11. I have noticed a rattle or tick at start up for the last few months, my car is not my driven more than once or twice a week at the most, the the sound is coming from the right side and sound like valve train noise (alot like my 944 did with bad lifter) I washed the car yesterday and today at startup the tick was worse and did not go away as it had in the past in a short time. could this be timing chane rattle or a bad chane guide, I have read some posts and I under stand this could be bad. HELP :(
  12. :help: :help: All I can think of is that I washed the car and let it sit for Four or five days,(not a daily driver) When I drove it today It did not sound right. I seem to hear a mechanical noise coming from the left bank ayt the front. :help: Note I do have A K&N cold air intake and B&B exhaust
  13. :help: Hi, I have just completed an engine swap in my son's 1983 944, we found a 50,000 mile engine out of a 1985 944. The engine runs great but the temp gauge reads that the engine is running hot. There is a difference in the senders for the coolant gauge, the unit in the 85 engine is an internal probe as it threads through the block and in to the coolant galley and is (wet). The sender in the 83 engine is a dead plug in to the block, dose not go through the the block in to the coolant galley and it is not (wet). I believe the sender in the 85 engine sends a different signal do to it's natur
  14. 1983 944 5 speed project car: I have been building this car for my son, great car but there are a few problems. First- the head light doors went up and stayed up the first time they where used, I have replaced the relay with no luck in fact it started to melt the wires as soon as i hit the switch. do i need a new motor or could this be something else? I am also looking at rebuilding the steering rack (not power steering) as the steering is a bit vage and maby a bit stiff,has any one done a rebuild on the non power rack.
  15. I have read the information on "N" tires on the PCA website, the "N" designation represents Porsche approved tires. I live on the central coast, My car is not a daily driver. I plan on some track days this summer and I am looking for suggestions on tire choice. Tirerack ranks the Yokahama Advan Neova AD07 #1,I am also thinking about Michelin PS2. Any input would be greatly appreciated :drive:
  16. :cheers: Hi: I have had my car for 7 months, from the day I received the car it has turned over slowly but it has always started that is before yesterday. After driving for about an hour when I went to restart the car it turn it turned very slowly and then stopped, like it has a dead battery. after waiting a few seconds it started right up. Note this is a weekend car and may sit for 7 plus days between drives. I have read through the posts and found a lot of talk about battery problems as well as ignition switch replacement, I probable need a new ignition switch, however I have a question
  17. Dose anyone have a fix for the rattle I have in the rear seat latch. :drive:
  18. :drive: Can we see a picture of where the leak is? It sounds like a cam cover or exhaust gasket. What timing! I was under my car (also a 99 C2) yesterday for the first time, and found I have this very same leak. (location anyway). Immediately researched the boards, and was led to believe cam cover. If that's the case, is this serious? Can I live with it? How costly is a cam cover repair? I found the leak thanks to a tip from the PCA tech expert, It was coming from a torn bellows hose above the oil separator. I would say it was an easy fix, less than $20 in parts (new
  19. My 1999 996 C2 coupe 6 speed has an oil leak on the lower drivers side at the lowest point and near the front of the head gasket. the drip is near a small allen bolt just above and about 3" back from the sway bar. Thanks Wiliiam
  20. :drive: I have a 1999 996 C2 6 speed, Looks like the previous owner installed Bilstien HDs. I would like to lower the car though I suspect the HDs are taller and I would have to change them out for the sports, I am also interested in ajusting the toe / camber, I have gone through the posts and have not found this info for my car.
  21. :drive: I have read through the posts and there is alot of info on setup, is ther a simple fix for the factory setup. I know they tune the suspension up to under steer to make the car safer but with a low fuel tank there is alot of push.
  22. :drive:I can't seem to find the part number for the alignment tool for the short shifter (B&M) I called my local dealer and they can't find. The shifter seems to work well I would just like to be sure it is set right.
  23. :oops: Alan C is right it's not a B&M: my bad. I installed the (no name brand) shifter this morning, very simple install if you know what you are doing. I have never driven 996 with the B&M but I can say the (no name) shifter is a vast improvement over the stock unit, a bit stiffer than the stock unit but I feel the precise action is a good trade off. I hope I did not mislead any one with my previous post.
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