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Bay Arean

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Everything posted by Bay Arean

  1. Sounds about right. Yep, I'll disassemble the pump tomorrow and see if it's stuck. I drained the oil and it was clean. I also removed the oil pan to check for chip fragments and haven't found anything yet. I haven't taken off the valve cover to check for chips up there. Is it likely the head is destroyed due to loss of oil pressure? I estimate the engine ran for ~10s after the pump failed.
  2. Hi all, Had some interesting updates to the story tonight. I dropped the transmission but haven't yet removed the flywheel, so I can't yet see the IMS bearing. From the glimpse that I have, it looks OK. Surprising. I removed the Oil Suction Pump on both banks. On Bank 1 (driver's side) there was no timing chain attached. Aha! Also, the tab from the pump had broken off and is embedded in the camshaft sprocket. Removing the Bank 2 Oil Suction Pump revealed the chain was still healthily present. Now, a few questions for the experts: -What was the likely sequence of events? Did the Oil Suction Pump fail first, causing the chain to break? -Do the cases need to be split to re-install the chain? The small amount of research I did says yes, the case will need to be split. -Pelican sells chains "without master link." Does this mean I'll route the new chain then use a typical chain press tool to complete the chain? -Should I plan on getting a cherry picker and engine stand for this work, or can it be done on plywood on the garage floor?
  3. Hey Loren! CDR-220 15001351 Thanks in advance, you are providing a very valuable service to us!!
  4. I can confirm that the $100 set works fine. I just used it on my 3.6L teardown. On the 3.6L, you just need to lock the crank at TDC #1 before you remove the bank 1 cam cover. There's no need to insert that cam lock tool as the cams are held down by a few bearings that are INSIDE the cam cover. The cams won't fall out if you remove the cam cover, unlike the 3.4L where the cams are actually held down by the cam cover itself hence the need of the locking tool. Aha! This is news to me. Good news. What's the purpose of locking the crankshaft at TDC? Will this still apply to me since I know my timing is off already?
  5. I went ahead and ordered the $100 set plus a Bentley manual. Every $300 set states "Does not work with 3.6L engines" as AWDGuy pointed out in the other thread. Looks like I'll use the single included "bar" to lock my cams down during valve cover removal.
  6. Hi all, I drained the oil and surprisingly there were no chips/shavings to be found. I also removed the oil pan and the oil screen was clear. Unfortunately the view from the oil pan didn't yield any good information; it's just not that good of a view. The PO had removed a camshaft cover to verify that in fact the timing has gone wrong. Cause of incorrect timing is still unknown. Failed IMS bearing, failed IMS shaft? I will next work on removing the transmission, by following one of the many guides on the web! That will give me insight as to whether the IMS bearing has failed. When I inevitably drop the engine, I will want to remove the valve covers (cam covers). Which of these tools do I need for that, and also for re-aligning the timing after the repair? This $100 set: http://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Camshaft-Alignment-Timing-Tool/dp/B00NAI21OM/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437413014&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=porsche+996+tool+hit Or this $300 set: http://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Boxster-Engine-Timing-Camshaft/dp/B00L0ZOZ0A/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437413014&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=porsche+996+tool+hit I'm not totally clear on the difference between each.
  7. Hi all, This weekend I found a fun new project car -- a 2002 Carrera 996 (non-turbo) with a non-running engine. The previous owner hasn't had it fully diagnosed so it's a mystery (risk) to me! Apparently it died on the freeway with an audible "clunk." PO suspects IMS or camshaft related issues but otherwise has no idea. I want to approach the disassembly in the most logical way possible to diagnose the failure, but I don't understand this engine well yet. How's this for a process flow: 1. Drain oil, check for chips/debris, etc 2. Remove oil pan, check for anything obviously loose/damaged 3. Remove camshaft covers and attempt to crank engine using crankshaft nut -- does timing remain intact? 4. Remove transmission, inspect IMS bearing assembly Assuming all that looks OK, what's next? Drop the engine and remove the valve covers? Thanks in advance.
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