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eben

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Everything posted by eben

  1. eben
    Thanks Loren, I see the C4 comments later in the thread. Thats what I was afraid of, I guess I will try to reach the big nut through the cap hole in the wheel and try not to chip any wheel paint. I have a few days to think about it as they were just ordered today. 15% off sale at Performance Products $325 delivered to Canada for H&Rs ...heck of a deal.
  2. eben
    I have a 2002 C4S and have just ordered lowering springs. I am going to intall them myself. I have seen a couple of good how to posts but none with front wheel drive. Anyone know if there is a significant difference with changing out the front ones? Will the front hub assembly drop low enough to get the spring off with out any major axle dissassembly?
  3. eben
    Man that is nice! I have a very similar looking blk car with 19" RUF wheels. Mine looks too high yours looks real good. I'm going to attempt installation myself. Thanks for the pics!
  4. eben
    Be careful when withdrawing the tranny. Don't let any weight get supported by the input shaft in the disc spline before it is clear out. A recent RMS replacement on mine ( at a dealer ) resulted in a slightly bent disc because of this. Symptom is clutch won't disengage completely. I guess if you are replacing the clutch , this isn't so important. But maybe on the way in with the new parts.
  5. eben
    I am interested in knowing the amount of drop attained on a 996 C4S. Also ride feel comparison. I drove a friends 997 C4S with PASM and found that the feel ( cracks in concrete hiway ) in sport mode was very similar to my car in its one and only mode. In non sport, the cracks were not perceptable. This leads me to think that ride feel may be more related to shocks than springs. The H&Rs are said to be progressive vs stock springs. Can you notice the difference in ride firmness? Eric
  6. eben
    Update on brake judders.... Tried the garnet paper to rough up the surface and possibly remove any unseen deposits. Didn't help. While I had the rotors off I did my best to measure the thickness with a digital caliper. It was difficult to get accurate readings but I could definitely tell that the left was worse than the right. Took the left to a local machine shop. The machinest said he took less than 0.002 off each side and that was enough to make it flat. He said that he doubted that this disc was my problem and said I should have brought both in. But I was pleasantly surprised that after installing the left , the problem is gone and I am happy with the brakes again. New caliper bolts on order, using the old ones for now. I am going easy till the surface is worn in. The only thing I could come up with for why, is perhaps when I put the car away for the winter last year. After a few days I tried to push it a bit in the garage and the brakes were stuck. After I broke them loose I could see a rust mark on the disk where the caliper was. Make that rust spot caused an low spot that just got worse with continued use ?? PS a tip: after spreading the pads to put the caliper back on, always pump the peddal a couple of times before moving. If you don't, you may freak when you feel the floor board when trying to stop at the end of your driveway. duh, I know. Eric
  7. eben
    Thanks for the info, I agree the problem is not warped discs. When I spin the rotors with the motor ( car on jacks front wheels removed ), they appear to run true. I am convinced that the problem is a thickness change or run out during the rotation. The Stoptech article gives an explanation of how this might happen. I did do some power stops that came to a complete stop a few months ago to demo the incredible braking to a friend. This is a no no apparently. I probably deposited material then and now it has gotten worse. I will try the garnet paper suggestion and then rebed. Thanks again for the replies and ideas!!!
  8. eben
    I read somewhere that the oil used in the K&N style filter sheds tiny oil particles that may contaminate the MAF. Not sure if this is true but it seems plausble.
  9. eben
    I have an 02 C4S with a high speed vibration when braking felt in the pedal and felt on the steering wheel. I am pretty sure it is one or both front rotors that need trueing up. Is there a way to get the rotors off without opening any brake lines? There is a hard connected tube directly on the caliper. I was wondering if removing the strut end bracket for the flex hose would allow enough movement to slide the caliper off? I am a bit nervous about removing the bracket because it also holds cables for ABS or PSM? sensors. Anyone ever done this without having to make a mess with brake fluid??
  10. eben
    Finally got clutch sorted out. When they removed the tranny, they must have supported part of the weight of the tranny on the input drive shaft. This bent the disk slightly. After reinstalling it this made it wobble and drag slightly when released. Got a new disc installed with many appologies. 0 dollars out of pocket. Grief and worry was no charge.
  11. eben
    So the dealer pulled the tranny out again and can't find anything that looks wrong. They thought that they would find the disc binding on the spine but found it to be free moving. So I am buying a new clutch.
  12. eben
    Thanks Loren, I found the black tube that goes to the brake reservoir. Did the bleed and found only a very small amount of air. Didn't cure my problem. I just picked the car up tonight after a warranty oil seal replacement. It was after hours and the service guys had gone home. The car had no other issues. Now I can hardly get it into first or second or reverse. The clutch is definately dragging and not fully disengaging. In my garage, with the pedal all the way down, when I gently push toward first, I can feel the car move slightly forward. I am going to take it back to them tomorrow. The clutch was fine and shifted like butter. I can't imagine what they have done to it and also can't believe that they thought this car was ready for the customer. I wonder if there is some linkage not on correctly that would make the release stroke less. I can already hear them telling me that I will need a new clutch. There was nothing wrong with it before!!! I probably shouldn't even be driving it like this.
  13. eben
    I am going to attempt Lorens clutch bleed procedure but don't want to do it unless i can see how much fluid is there. Other posts talk about a green lid. I have been searching and can only find the blake fluid and washer fluid caps. I can see the clutch hydralic tube ( Blue ) but no reservoir. Its not in the owners manual. Maybe there isn't one??
  14. eben
    I am not sure of the internal details re ducting, but have you checked the length front to rear of your stock deck lid vs the GT2 one that you have? I was trying to fit a turbo moveable wing to my 02 C4S and found out that the C4S lid is a different length than the Turbo. Apparently the Turbo lid assembly will fit on to a C4S Cab but not a C4S coupe. I am not sure if this is also true for the GT2 wing and lid. I must say that I like the shape of the GT2 wing better than the GT3.
  15. eben
    Car looks great I have an 02 C4S and am planning the same mod as you did maybe this winter. The H&R description says 1" drop. I imagine that this is from stock US height. When you said M030 shocks , did you mean the original C4S shocks and if so how much drop did you realize? I thought that the C4S was supposed to be 10 mm lower than stock anyway? Any chance you could measure your tire OD and height from ground to top of fender lip front and back so I could compare to try to determine where I will end up? Thanks
  16. eben
    I was in at the local dealer today and saw a real 997 Turbo in speed yellow. I had only seen pictures in Silver and I love the yellow anyway so of course I was impressed. It said PCNA car , not for sale on the window. Apparently the sales guys are going to be trained on the car tomorrow. The engine compartment looked quite well laid out and simple. Aluminum force feeding tubes coming across from eachside. It was unclear how to enable the over boost, the sales guy said it comes on in sport mode, but when? He said he would know more after the training. I like the look mostly but can't get used to the square exhaust cut outs. Sounds like it will be a dream to drive ( like I need another 150 HP to get in trouble )
  17. eben
    Another possible RMS Just took my 02 C4S (24500km) in to the dealer this afternoon for a quick check as my factory warranty is over next week. Up on the hoist it went and after a few minutes, they called me to have a look. There was a wet spot ( no drips ) near the plug that accesses the front chain tensioner which the mechanic said was no biggy, easy to fix. Right at the bottom right between the tranny and engine case, there was a dirtier patch not as wet looking. This looked like the start of a RMS or IMS leak. I had not yet seen any drips on the garage floor. The service manager said that if I was paying, he would not try to sell a repair on this early sign of a leak but because it is still in warranty and he can self authorize, it should be fixed now so I can have a few more good leak free years. They are ordering parts and will do the repair next week. I felt glad that I had taken the time to arrange the check out. I'll report on how it went after the fix. I have done a lot of reading about leaks and I intend to make sure I am getting the latest seal ( they said that is what they are ordering ) and that they are using the latest insertion tool. I'll also ask about the go nogo gage.
  18. eben
    Just read an artical in a UK Porsche magazine ( I left it on my boat so I can't say which one specifically ) about a business in UK called autofarm. They rebuild Boxster and 996 motors and one of the comments was how few special tools are required. This company even bores outs and replaces cracked cylinders in a process they are pioneering. They are too far away for me but maybe you might be able to get parts from them? They also offer enlarged bore cylinders and pistons for boxster motors. Also I read another article that said the 3.4 intake manifolds are too tall to fit into the boxster. The person doing the retro fit ended up lowering the whole engine/tranny assy mounts to accomodate the manifolds. This worked OK but gave him reduced ground clearance in a vulnerable spot. Eric
  19. eben
    Thanks for the input guys. I probably will take it in for a quick going over. Although it is not due for service, maybe its time for the 2yearly brake fluid change.
  20. eben
    The dealer is good to visit for certain things....but $500 Cdn. for an oil change? Just did mine at my local guys who have a lot of Porsche visitors and they are great at the basic stuff. He even fixed the nail in my tire for free...oil change...$200 cdn. I guess it was more than just an oil change, called minor maintenance, parts ( 3 filters ) and oil total was 285 labour 160 + tax = 507
  21. eben
    My 02 C4S is coming out of warranty and even though I think you are correct in saying that the 02s are a bit safer bet than the earllier 996s ( from reading not from experience ) , I still went for the extended warranty. It was expensive but also a stress reliever. Eric
  22. eben
    I guess I am leaning toward ' waste of money ' too because I am pretty sure that there are none of the issues that you ( Triathlete ) mentioned. What I was wondering was how likely there are hidden things that might show up on a code reader that indicate some impending failure. The other thing I was wondering was why you guys are suggesting an independant shop. Why I wouldn't trust the dealer while it is still under warranty? Don't they have every reason to dig up any issue? Am I naive? Thanks for the comments.
  23. eben
    My 2002 C4S is coming out of factory warranty in about 3 weeks. I have no known issues ( looks dry underneath ). It is not due for service for 4 more months. Has 24000 km ( 15000 mi ). I just shelled out for a 3 year extended warranty beyond the factory one. I did all my own work on my old SC so it bugs me to pay others for service. The last oil change cost me over $500 (cdn). On the other hand I knew this car wasn't going to be cheap to own when I bought it. Should I take it in for a check up just in case in the next few days? What do you think?
  24. eben
    As for the slight rattle/clank at engine stop, mine does that too at times and has since I got it a year ago. I don't think it is significant. Anyone else any thoughts?
  25. eben
    I have an 02 C4S and have noticed a slight bump or miss at precisely 3K when slightly acceleratiing. I only notice it during easy acceleration and not all the time. I don't hear any sound just a slight bump. On power acceleration I don't feel it. I just assumed it was some kind of emmission change up ( theres a a lot of **** happening back there ). I get a weird loud barky sound on falling RPM whenever the electric air pump is running on when cold , I have heard this on other 996's and a 997C2S so I think this is an emmission friendly high lift valve thing. Eric
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