CarlOrton

Well, you guys are great! Went out this AM; moved the filler tube around; really couldn't see if there were any gaps in the accordion folds, etc, and didn't hear any cracking sounds. I know plastic is more age susceptible, but the car only has 51,000 on it, so fewer heat/cool cycles than an average 2001. Then I checked the filler cap. Didn't seem loose, but I rotated it 90 deg and re-installed. Definitely felt "snugger." Took it for a 45 min drive, and not once did it exhibit any idle or operational issues. Thanks again!! I *knew* these vehicles were crankcase pressure sensitive, but it just didn't pop out of the gray matter when it surprised me with erratic operation.

Thanks, Ahsai & Loren; makes perfect sense now that I think about it. I did release the oil fill tube from the clamp in order to not spill the new oil, but the tube has always been pliable. Still, after almost 17 years.... re: the o-ring in the oil filler cap, I'll have to check that, too. When reinstalling, it seemed not loose, but not snug, either. Still, found no spare parts on the ground (!). At least I have something to go on now!

Hi, All; 2001 C2, 6 spd First off, I know how to change oil. Have done it several times on my 996 with no ill effects. On Tuesday, I changed the oil and filter after backing the car onto Rhino Ramps. All went well. Filled the crankcase with about 7 qts (didn't want to overfill), started the engine, and drove it off the ramps. Shut 'er down. Checked oil level; added a bit, then went for a test-drive. When I came to the first stopsign, it was running quite rough, like it was loading up. Turned around, keeping the revs above normal idle speed. Got home, and made sure my wife had her phone with her, just in case. Took it out again, and the "loading-up" wasn't there. However, when I came to a stoplight (i.e., more than 5 seconds at idle), the idle went from its normally rock-steady state up to about 1200 rpms. It would drop down if I blipped the throttle, but then at the next light (and every one since then) it starts to inch up until I blip it. I didn't pull on anything, no codes are present, I didn't even bump anything. Car has been rock solid for over 2 years. Any ideas?

UPDATE: Solution found. A guy in my PCA chapter suggested an import dismantler in Austin, so I gave the guy a call. He said he couldn't sell just the button, because he'd then basically ruin the value of any handle from which he took it. He said he tried to unscrew the button from one he had, but he stopped because he thought he'd end up breaking it. Then he mentioned that he *would* send me a really scuzzy handle he had for $20 which included shipping. I agreed, and thought that even if I *couldn't* get just the button out, that $20 in education in the Porsche world would be cheap. Well, then handle arrived, and it really was bad. The leather on it looked like it sat in the Mojave for 50 years. Tried to unscrew the button to no avail. Then the "duhhhh" moment struck and I tried pulling on it. Slid right out. So now I finally have a button for my parking brake. For those of you wondering, just keep calling around to dismantlers. You just might find a deal better than mine!

I'm ignorantly assuming it screws into the handle. Well, ONTO the inner rod that actually releases the catch. Only surmising this because on another board a user posted a link to a firm in the UK that sells JUST the button. Think the US conversion was $23 or so. But then there was another $25 for postage to the US. I mean, this thing in a padded envelope is probably around 2 oz in weight. Would be nice if I had a UK friend to buy it and stick it in the post for me! Anyway, the websites description says that it screwed into the handle.

Revisiting this topic; still haven't come up with a solution. So, I was wondering: does the button pull-out of the handle? Looking inside my button-less handle, it does not seem to be broken off. I wouldn't mind buying a handle (dismantler) and just pulling out the button, saving the rest for future needs. So...DOES the button just pull out?

Could ambient temperature affect this issue? My car would give the double-beep when I'd try to unlock the doors using the switch on the dash. I don't normally lock my doors while driving, but the red light would come on in the switch to signal locked doors. Durametric showed codes 47, 60, and 61. This only started about a month ago (here in DFW) when the temps started hitting 100. This week, we're in the 70's & 80's, and no codes, and no issues.

Thanks for the replies. Wasn't too concerned about the "sludge" on the drain plug. Like I said, no chunks, so wasn't too surprised at that. Most of my concern was with lima-bean-green polymer pieces in the filter. I'd expect to see a few, but like I noted, about 1/3 of the folds had an equal or less amount of the stuff. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't a sign of a tensioner ramp about to blow apart. Thanks again; Carl

Hi, All; Car: 2001 C2, manual I just did my first user oil change on my still new to me 996. Not my first oil change, just on this car. Please review the enclosed pics. The car has a magnetic drain plug. There were no "chunks" on the magnet, just an accumulation of powder-type sludge. Additionally, the oil filter had green/turquoise bits in about 1/3 of the folds. Background: When purchased, the indie shop replaced the timing chain tensioner solenoid. As part of this, they changed the oil & filter and installed the magnetic drain plug. I don't know if this debris is a result of them messing around in there or not. Should I have any immediate concerns, or just monitor. NOTHING in filter except those green bits.

re: 2001 C2, 49900 miles. Well, it's late spring here in DFW, so that means daily temps in the 95 deg range. I've noticed that my coolant temp has been creeping up and staying up more than normal. Usually, it's between the 8 and 0 of the 180 mark, but this has been creeping up to the the right side of the 0 digit. Yes, it will drop down once in motion. I then stumbled upon the "a/c hack" information where you can display certain sensor information on the a/c control panel. The engine temp at the hottest point was at 105 deg C or 221 F. Then I noticed on another forum that folks were saying a) the analog gauge is far from accurate, and b: the temp displayed on the a/c unit is different from Durametric values. So, today I connected my Durametric, and sure enough, there was about a 2-3 deg diff between the a/c panel indication and the Durametric displayed value. When the a/c was showing 105 deg, Durametric said 102 or 215 F. So, I'm more curious than anything. Does Durametric take sensor information from a point different from the climate control system? Why would there be a difference otherwise? Thanks helping me understand the workings a bit better.

I started typing this before Orient Express chimed in, but I was going to say that it depends on what you really need. If the pads are worn out, just DIY as Orient Express suggests. One of the easiest-ever tasks to do on your car - even easier than changing the oil. Now, if you needed new or resurfaced rotors, or you have leaking calipers, etc., it gets a bit more involved and costly. Dealers (and most shops) only do brake jobs one way - the full monte in order to avoid any liability issues. If you told them to only replace the pads, and then 1000 miles later a caliper leaks, you either scream at them for screwing up in the first place, or worse, you have an accident and the lawyers start crucifying them for only doing 1/2 a job on such an important safety component. Seriously, if you want it done at a great price, do it yourself. Even if you've never wrenched before, it's a great learning activity, and even if you mess up, it's not going to be that big of a deal to correct.

Thanks, Youri; I haven't been "inside" the door yet, so is there just that one cable? As in, will it be obvious? Thanks again; Carl

Thanks, flightparties, for the hint. While I don't need one right now, that's good info to store away! And, no, have never used the washers. Don't want water spots on my paint! (intend to try them *some* day just to see if they work.) Carl

Wasn't aware there was a relearn procedure! Thanks; i'll check my manual and/or Bentley manual for the info. Carl

Hi, All; On my 2001 C2 coupe, the right door glass only drops a very small amount when the handle is lifted in preparation for opening. It's hot hanging up, but just sounds odd when closing. Is there a limit switch adjustment in there, or is it more of just a physical hardware adjustment to effect a proper drop-down? Thanks for any suggestions! Carl

I understand that the button is not available separately, so one must purchase the entire parking brake assy from Porsche or one of the dismantlers that are out there. So...assuming I can find a used parking brake handle, is there anyway to remove the button assy from the new handle and insert it into the old handle still installed in the vehicle? Or is the complete handle assy replacement the only way to effect this repair? I was just thinking that if I could do the easy fix then why not? Vehicle is a 2001 996 C2. Thanks!

Thanks for the explanation, JFP; my entire assy was replaced; solenoid and actuator came as a unit, hence the cam removal.

As an only 3-month 996 owner, I'm saying more than I know, but my 2001 C2 had a code P1341, which I believe (in ignorance, remember) to be similar, but the other side or bank. P1341 resulted in my solenoid giving false / indeterminate readings. When I encountered mine, some folks said I could replace it relatively easily, but then others chimed in that that ease was only for VarioCam+ cars, I believe either 2002 or 2004 and later. To replace MY solenoid, the valve cover had to be replaced, the cams removed, and the solenoid replaced. The solenoid itself was about $1200 and $1800 of labor for $3000 total. Like I said, I'm saying more than I know, but I *do* know there is a difference between the VarioCam and VarioCam+ or 2 systems WRT ease of replacement.

Creekman, I like the color of your car. ;-) How does one know how thick a slab they have? My sons and I have been thinking about the MaxJax; they both live out of the home, but one has a Cayman and the other is looking for a decent Porsche now as well. Of course, they want it installed in my garage, of course!

I've been trying for 2 days to have my photo added to my posts/profile. I've clicked on the stock "image" where it says "change", and I've also gone to "edit my profile" / change photo. Each time I select the photo I want that's on my desktop, it sees it, I click done, and then nothing is updated. Yes, I scrolled to the bottom to "save changes". Any hints? Did I not contribute enough $$$ ? ;-) Thanks for any hints... Carl

Thanks for the replies. I've decided to replace the solenoid/actuator. Shop says everything else is in great condition and nothing else is needed at this point. Now, some explanation as to my original post. The great thing about the 'net is that you can obtain lots of information in a relatively short span of time. The challenge is to sort it out so that it means something. I've been a Mopar dealership tech back when things were fun (think Hemi Cuda's, RoadRunners, GTX's, etc), so I'm comfortable with things mechanical. I'll also be the first to admit that I don't know the ins and outs of a 996, so I'll just ask questions - no dumb question, right? Part of the problem is that you have lots of folks just chiming in without really understanding the issue, or without even owning a Porsche (not in this thread, fortunately). In my ignorant understanding of Porsches, I could see how an infrequently-driven vehicle *might* have a little varnish or something creating an occasional solenoid issue. Everyone (yeah, pretty much everyone) says to drive 'em hard in order to keep the IMS awash in oil, and to keep the revs above 2-3000 rpm. When I see the interval between CEL occurrences increasing each time, you can see where I'd think that things were loosening up. When I was building my airplane, the discussion boards were full of folks saying "that won't work" even though the kit mfr said to do it a certain way. We finally had to go to a forum system where you had to be "approved" for membership in order to weed-out those with good intentions, but with zero specific knowledge, or those who have never even flown, let alone built their own plane. Thanks again for your advice. Will also be changing the oil and installing a magnetic plug. Carl PS: dunno why my avatar is not showing up.

Hi, All; Sorry for the clunky title. I picked up my new-to-me 2001 C2 996 on Sept 28th. 47.712 miles on it. 6-speed. At about 47,750, the CEL came on with P1341. Indy shop used by the selling dealer said, "they all do that", reset it, and said that for it to be really fixed it would be about $3000. Seemed to run for awhile. CEL P1341 came on again at 47,941. About 100 miles since last illumination. I reset it. Came on again at 48,124 - about 170 miles this time. The car has only driven about 2000 miles in 3 years. Is it possible that it's just a bit sticky? No idea what oil is in it. I've researched just about all venues, and some guys say they reset them and it will be good for 18 months or more. The techs at MY indy shop have checked the wiring/connections for corrosion, etc. PIWIS shows cam variance/deviation of 3.5 - 4 degrees, well within spec. When it *does* go out, it's only a degree or so higher, but still under the 6 degrees. (a bit fuzzy here - it's possible it was 6.5 degrees, but shop says 7 deg is the max.). When it *does* exceed variance, it's only for a second or two, then right back into compliance. Replace the solenoid/acutator, or try my luck by driving it hard (like I've been doing all along)? Thank for your collective insight; Carl