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Fixed - ended up being two bad passenger lock swithces. Back in business with a no beep, fully locked 996!
New door locks in.... No change. I can manually lock the passenger door (at exposed door lock) then lock drivers door with key and get the system armed. Otherwise I cannot get the system to lock... Aren't there some locking methods other than relying on the fob? Any other thoughts out there? Anyone in Denver area with a Porsche tester? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yeah, this is what I was originally thinking. I didn't realize there are 5 inside - the ones acknowledging the doors are closed work fine (per window action). Already replaced the drivers... I guess I'll throw the passenger at it and see! I just manually set the passenger door to locked (at lock mechanism inside door), then locked drivers with the key.....no beeps (single or double). Seem reasonable that the passenger lock is culprit.
I did not have the latest software version... I do now!
I have the Durametric Enthusiast... Not sure how to find the fault when it suggest no issues after the system check.
Completely baffled here. 99 C4. Alarm cycles through lock>>unlock>>Double beep when trying to lock from the FOB. Doesn't lock the doors. I can only lock drivers door from the key - single beep after that locks. I manually set passenger lock (from inside door), locked the drivers and got the single beep. Then unlocked and back to double beep. Durametric is inconsistent in reporting codes. Last ones I saw indicated open door circuits - didn't get a chance to jot them extra expecting to see them again. Reset the module, now no codes to report! All micro switches in the doors are good. Windows drop/go up as expected when triggered from outer handle/inner handle/door lock. I assume the drivers door lock is good considering it will lock from the key. I have another good drivers lock that I plugged in to the passenger side - same situations. I know there are other switches the alarm considers but I can't imagine the motion sensor or the center console would keep the car from locking!?!? Durametric pointed mostly to doors (I think I remember something about circuit 15?). Any insight out there? I really don't want to throw parts at it but am at the end of my capability/knowledge. Long shot but could the ignition switch be causing this?? Anyone in Denver area with a PIWIS? Durametric doesn't seem to have the capability In this instance. HELP!!!!
Update: I finally got back at it - thank you all for the advice. I decided to remove the seats to see exactly what I was working with. Found the wiring harness connector behind drivers seat - did not look disturbed so left it. (Pic for reference) Went ahead and picked up a paired fob, immobilizer, and dme- fixed. Immo took a bath and PCB became corroded!
Yeah, ****. I guess that leads us towards a physical connection/interruption between DME and Immobilizer.
Yep. Tried this. No change. I'm suspect of the physical connections. Thinking about pulling the seat to take a better look. Although key fob talks to immobilizer which activates horn/locks. Q: durametric enthusiast cannot reset alarm/immobilizer codes apparently. Would these be stored outside the DME/immobilizer unit??? Elsewhere in the car where a battery(coin cell) fed storage unit stores flash or something? Running out of ideas.
Known good DME in. Paired immobilizer and RFID in. All good - looks like Immo got wet and PCB corroded!
Ok. Finally back on this project - now armed with a durametric enthusiast. I hooked up the durametric last night to see what's going on - probably biggest red flag is reporting the DME as not connected.
Confirmed air bag looks fine. DME from 01 is egas, not sure about other one. Car is set up for egas. I don't have a durametric (yet). I think I'll have to get my hands on one - I think I've eliminated most of the low hanging fruit. Anyone have one they'd loan or any Boulder/Denver guys interested in coming by?
You know- I was wondering about that.
Would crank position signal issue shut me down like this?