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Youri Ko posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I will be replacing my dual row, looking at it - I don't see the original circlip... Is it normal?
Something like this?
Very good, thank you. I'll post some pics once I get it done.
Reviving the old thread, JFP - could you please repost the picture of what that coupling looks like in real, if you still have it by any chance? Thanks!
Youri Ko replied to spg356's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Funny, I strated the same topic on Renlist. Question to cbr786 - why haven't you swapped the DME from 3.6? I'm following the Pelican's article logic on this, they say that 2001 Boxters are prewired for future CAN bus and can accept pretty much anything as long as you bring the 7.8DME with it, article says that only few wiring modifications are required to plug 7.8DME into 7.2 harness, but this is for 2001 Boxter. What's your take on this? How different are 01 boxter to 01 996 to follow the same logic? Article is here : http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm
Just curious, what would a typical chain guides job cost in a shop?
I'm in the process of bleeding coolant system. I studied what porsche manual suggests but could not get to the point where the radiator fans would kick in. Drove the car a little around , revved from time to time but I guess it never got hot enough. So I will go for a longer drive next time. Manual also says not to go over 90Celcius . My needle what fluctuate between dead middle which is 180F and then a tad higher if I simply let it sit at idle. Revving up would make the temp drop a little. Besides using a vacuum system for fill up, could you provide me with some pointers or tips and such on sucessful system bleed? Thanks a lot!
Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how? No, I have not, only tried conventional two people bleeding, pump pump, hold, open the valve, close, restart. Don't have a pressure bleeder, building one tonight. That method should work. If you switch to pressure bleeding, remember that the clutch pedal has to be held to the floor while doing the bleeding, then pulled up afterwards. The conventional method did not work. We had to press and pull the pedal manually, and it never got "hard" (that sounds funny)
Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how? No, I have not, only tried conventional two people bleeding, pump pump, hold, open the valve, close, restart. Don't have a pressure bleeder, building one tonight.
Here is the engine number, oh yeah, and it's a double row 2001... On another note, is there a way to conventionally bleed the clutch, without pressure bleeder, I mean? Been fighting with this clutch for two evenings, longer then it took to drop the engine do the pads and put it back. :cursing:
More close ups I'll check see if there are any part numbers I can find on them tonight
So what about those MK2 cats, Ashai?
Accessory belt was off, so no water, a/c, alternator. No airbox, no maf and O2 were unplugged too. New fuel pump definitely changed the way this car starts. Used to be a different story. Just wanted to get that off my shoulders. Reinstalling the rest this week and will bleed the coolant once I can put the car outside. MK2 cats? How diffrent are they? Wow, I learn new things everyday about this thing.
Small video of the "dry" start up https://goo.gl/photos/oh7Ue9SYkSGQWnqp6
Will buy it tonight, and will probably redo the other side. So what's 7.5Lb in Inches? :P :P :P