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Greetings, I have lost the outer cover to the airbox on a 1990 962 C2 part# 964.110.030.05. While searching for a cover or even another entire assembly I am not finding that particular box. What I do see readily available are assemblies with the part# 964.110.030.04. Will this assembly fit or is it entirely different? I'd like to know because the source where they are available there are no returns (eBay). I have contacte several dismantlers, all without success so it looks like eBay is the source. Thanks in advance.
I should clarify, while the gauges were “properly tested“ they behaved in their unruly fashion when tested. Sorry for any confusion. Also they were not tested with the Durametric, I have access to Autologic.
Hi Ahsai, Thanks so much for the quick response. To answer your questions-- yes and yes! It is really odd, all is connected properly and tested, but still issues with the analog gauges. Any other suggestions are very much appreciated.
Greetings, The title says it all. I installed LED back lighting in my 2001 996C4 and now the analog gauges are "wonky". Speedo goes up to 150mph and then back down while driving normally, amp gauge reads wrong, fuel gauge pegs past full, tach does not register at all etc, etc. Has anyone experienced this before?
Thanks for the replies. We will do the recalibration as Loren provided to see where that gets us. Once done I will report back.
I am aware of the saddle bags fuel tank setup I have on my 2001 C4 and that the gauge should estimate remaining fuel after 1/2 tank. However, my gauge just stops at 1/2 tank and stays there. Since it never reads lower it is up to me to estimate on my own how much fuel is left which has led me to run out of gas twice now, so I want to do something about it. After much searching here I read about many different issues with these C4's and their fuel gauge woes, just not this one in particular. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
spg356 replied to spg356's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)To anyone who is following this topic: It CAN be done and is not as nearly complex as you might think. After my initial post I received an email from another forum member. He informed me that he had done the swap successfully a couple of year ago and that while it was not bolt on/plug and play, it was by no means as difficult as the internet would have you believe. He was amazingly helpful during the process and the only reward he wanted was knowing that another 3.6 swap would be done. I am currently driving the car with no issues, it has terrific power & drivability and I could not be more happy with it. There is one tiny trick he revealed that when you hear it, it makes all of the sense on the world and it solves the programming issues between modules, the key transducer and the immobilizer which in turn solves the problem between VarioCam & VarioCam+. We are going to post a write up on the swap procedures so that others can do it with the same success. What I liked best about the process was that there were no "workarounds", aftermarket pieces or hacks needed to make it work, it is all 996 and is very straightforward. Please note: we are not doing this for any kind of reward or fee, we are just so pleased that it can be done that we will share it with the forum, and that should happen soon.
Greetings, I have searched this subject and obviously much has been written about it, and I am trying to determine if this project is worthwhile. I inherited a 2001 996 C4 (actually was an asset of a repair shop I purchased last year) and it has a “story”. Blown 3.4 engine long gone, now a 3.6 bought from Parts Heaven is installed and running, but has similar symptoms I have read about related to VariCam and VariCam Plus issues. The project was put on hold when the old GM left the business (it was to be his driver), and the car was an asset of the business when I bought the shop from the owners. From what I understand it is a big issue getting past the differences between VarioCam and VarioCam Plus. My guys fully believe they can get it to run as it should, but I want to see if it is worth it to me. Keep in mind that I am not a horsepower nut and going back to a 3.4 engine would be just fine with me. So, in a nutshell, I will go forward with this project IF it can be done in a fairly straightforward manner. I don't mind sourcing the correct modules etc, but if I have to change out instrument clusters, do custom wiring, deal with fuel delivery stuff and more, then forget it. I don’t want my guys spending time on my car, I want them working on customer cars! I would then just sell the 3.6 and buy a complete 3.4 to get it going again. I know that Todd Holyoak has done this before so I know it can be done, I just do not need a huge time consuming project when I would be fine with a 3.4l engine. Any guidance here is greatly appreciated.
Greetings, Very well maintained 1998 Boxster 5 speed 112k miles. A few days ago I started the car after sitting for a week or so (I usually drive it daily) and upon startup it ran as if missing on a cylinder or two for about 10 seconds, then smoothed out and ran fine. No engine light came on at that time, but two days later it did. I checked the codes with my Durametric: P0446 Porsche code 95 Shutoff valve activated charcoal filter, P1126 Porsche code 356 Oxygen sensing adaption lower load range bank 1 and P1124 Porsche code 167 Fuel pump relay final stage open circuit. I cleared the codes and the light went out. Today I started the car in the morning and the car ran rough once again. This time I shut it off and then restarted it. Upon restart it ran fine, but I suspect the engine light will come on again soon. Is anyone familiar with this and what I might need to do? Any help is greatly appreciated. Regards,
Thanks T, I will do that. Another suggestion I received was to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch as it causes crazy electrical problems as well. I had another odd problem with the car a few years back and the new switch solved it. Regards,
Guys, '98 Boxster 5 speed, 111,000 miles. Cold morning here in Michigan, however I drive my car year round. When I got in the car this morning and started it, the driver's window was going up and down about a quarter of an inch and the door lights were on. The only way to get it to stop was by pressing the window switch up. The window would stop for a bit before going again, but the door lights never went off. When I got to my destination, the window stopped but the door lights stayed on so I removed the bulbs. On top of that the doors will not lock. I am guessing the door light switch but want to hear from others who may have seen this before. Thanks,
JFP, I cleaned the buckle receptacles with electrical contact cleaner, cleared the codes and now the airbag light has been off since Sunday. Hopefully that was it; as always I appreciate your help! Regards,