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About mesutter

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  • From
    San Jose, CA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2001 BMW 330Ci
    1986 BMW 635 Csi
    2015 Spark EV
    1996 Mazda MX6 M edition
  • Former cars
    1952 Buick Hearse
    1953 Studebaker Commander Coupe
    504 Peugeot
    605 Peugeot
    1962 Jaguar Mk II
  1. Topic is moot at this point. Someone pulled out out a driveway directly in front of me on a city street tonight (on my way to pick up brake pads!) and we collided. The right front corner is a complete mess, so next week the insurance company will have to determine if it is a total loss. See attached photo. The only body panels damaged are the fender and bumper, but I'm certain the whole right side suspension is toast and there is likely significant structural damage.
  2. Thanks! I think I'll try the re-use approach. Separating them while in the calipers seems like a good approach, as they are firmly held In place. If I remove them as a unit, I would likely have to clamp the unit in a vise. I am planning to use Akebono ceramics, as my usual choice, PBR/Axxis are currently not available. The Akebonos appear to have a shim plate clipped to the pads. Does anyone know if that plate is designed to be used in lieu of the Porsche plate on in conjunction with it?
  3. After reviewing online videos, the Boxster brake pad replacement process seemed simple and straightforward, so got new pads and began the task. Something immediately seemed wrong. Whereas in the video, the old pads were easily withdrawn after removing the pins and spring retainers and retracting the pistons, mine wouldn't budge. Looking closely, it looked like my pistons were stuck to the pads (and mighty small pistons they were, strangely). A bit of research revealed, of course, that I was looking at the locating buttons on the shim plates, p/n 996 351 088 02. The videos I watched obviously
  4. Yep, and if the SAI monitor had still refused to complete, that would have been the logical next step. I'm going to keep an eye out for good prices on the Internet. For the rear sensor that I just bought, the price from my ususal (and often forum recommended) sources was higher than at the local O'Reilly's (Bosch OEM style).
  5. For anyone interested, attached are cold start O2 voltage scans before and after changing sensor B1S2. As is obvious, the blue line is the affected sensor position. Also attached is my smog test results - PASSED!
  6. Nor did I, sorry if it came across that way. I just wondered if there was any monitoring going on that could help further understand the variation we are seeing between vehicles. The first person that told me that completing the SAI monitoring test could be difficult, before I even started this thread, was a local Porsche dealer mechanic.If only we could deconstruct the software. However, as the recent VW fiasco shows, even Porsche may not know every line of code that is in there!
  7. To JFP in response to: "Last week, we had a 2001 base car in the shop for emissions inspection that finally reset the SAI flag after 87 miles of driving over multiple days. And I've seen cars longer that that as well. It doesn't always work itself out with one run cycle." Perhaps it has to do with how responsive the post-cat sensors are. If they are old and slower, it may be that the DME just misses getting the info it needs to set the SAI as "ready". After all, they only have about a minute and a half to detect and signal the air pump's oxygen arriving in the manifolds. Did you do a scan
  8. Yes, that change led to the SAI readiness monitor showing completed. The other pending and full problem codes popping up during the arduous process indicate there may be other latent troubles, in particular there may be an intermittent vacuum leak (reference the pending P1126 code that popped up after a abrupt stop) or a CAT on the way out (reference the P0420 code). But if so, at least they were in abeyance long enough for me to pass smog. I'll clicked the problem solved button.
  9. As mentioned previously, the car has to go through a number of cold starts, full warm up, drive at highway speeds, shut off, and full cool down cycles before it resets. People have promoted specific regimens like the one you mentioned for the 993 from time to time, but I am unaware of a specific one that works consistently on the later cars. My experience belies this. I had all readiness monitors reset except EVAP and SAI. With the help of Ahsai and the O2 voltage readings at cold start-up, it was judged that the slow response of one of the post-cat sensors was the likely culprit. So toda
  10. Judging by the censoring on my last post, one is not allowed to refer to female dogs on this forum! There goes my reputation even before it was established! Part ordered, will have it by noon tomorrow!
  11. The right rear is a ***** to change because of the Tiptronic plumbing proximity, so no more swapping. I'm off to O'reilly because they can get me a Bosch 15183 (Porsche OEM # 986 606 128 01) for $121 and I'll have it tomorrow. That's $30 more than Amazon, but worth it to get it done sooner. Thanks for all your help and amazingly fast responses, Ahsai!
  12. Just drove an additional 50 miles, no codes nor pending codes. EVAP and SAI still not ready. I clicked on the wrong button and lost the cold start voltage data logs, but I did get screenshots of the approx 2 1/2 minutes after cold start. The air pump shut off at about 1:48 into the log. The first two graphs (image 2 and image 3A) are of the cold start in portrait and Landscape mode. The blue line is the Bank 1 downstream O2 sensor (B1S1), and the red line is the Bank 2 downstream sensor (B2S2). The third graph (image 4) is shows output from about 1 1/2 minutes steady running at approx. 40 m
  13. Yes, and it's the most difficult one to change due to the proximity of the Tiptronic plumbing on that side. I'm going out now to start driving around. I'll capture the start-up O2 voltage data (air pump on and about 30 seconds beyond). My BlueDriver can capture the data and save it as a spreadsheet, but I don't believe it can directly output a graph. It does show it graphically on the screen, so I'll also grab a screenshot. I don't currently have a spreadsheet program on my computer to graph the data.
  14. Latest strange events (and yes, P1146 was a typo, 1126 is correct): This morning I again swapped the upstream O2 sensors to try to determine if I had right bank lean issue or O2 sensor problem. I then went for a drive to the local Porsche dealer, about 20 minutes, while monitoring the sensor voltages . Both sensors seemed to working, similar outputs, no flatlining. When I got to the dealer I checked for codes and lo and behold, the pending P1126 was gone, but there was a pending P0139, bank 1 sensor slow response. Late this evening, I went out to drive around. After ten miles, the P0139 pe
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