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I am having trouble getting my 2001 Boxster S ready for a smog check in California. The rules have recently changed. Year 2000 and up vehicles are no longer driven on rollers with a sniffer in the tailpipe. The check is solely through interrogation of the EMU via the OBD II port. Also, whereas in the past one test readiness monitor could be not reset and the vehicle be tested and if clean, pass the emissions test, now only the evap readiness can be incomplete - no other. Although my vehicle has never thrown an SAI related code, nor pending code, the Secondary Air monitor will not set to ready. A little history. I initially had an illuminated CEL, the codes showing were P1128 and P1130. I discovered the vacuum hose feeding the SAI valve was pulled out from the port on the right rear intake rubber connector. (Wonder why this did not trigger an SAI code, since the vacuum needed to open the valve was not present). Upon connecting the hose and clearing the codes (I have Lemur Blue Driver), neither the codes nor pending codes have reappeared after several hundred miles of driving. All of the monitors showed ready soon after restart and a small amount of driving except the catalyst, evap and SAI. After driving the prescribed setting cycle (cold idle, 20-30 mph, 40-60 mph, hot idle in gear) the evap and catalyst monitors showed ready. However, now even after a dozen or more 2 minute, 10 second cold start idles, the SAI test still shows incomplete. Does anyone know what the DME is looking for to set SAI ready? One post I found said 125 Mv or less from the pre-cat 02 sensors after 10 seconds of idle with the air pump on. True? BTW, my air pump is operating on cold start and runs for about one minute and 40 seconds. My cold idle is smooth and about 1k rpm in neutral, 800-900 in drive (tiptronic). Should the initial 2 minute, 10 second cold star idle be done in neutral or drive? (I’ve done both) Any suggestions? I’ve talked to the California Air Resources Board, and it appears the referee path is no longer an option.
Hi all, 2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi. I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled. I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission: I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven. Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual. Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve. The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before. I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification). The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves. I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful. I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing. Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections? Many thanks for your input!
Here’s a quick tutorial on how to fix a P0492 error code on a Boxster 986 / 987 / Carrera 996 / 997. Error: P0492 – Porsche fault code 208 – Secondary-air system bank 2 Symptoms: no visible symptoms, except for the CEL (check-engine light) being triggered, particularly during cold engine startups with the SAI (Secondary Air Injection) pump running for the first 90 seconds. Diagnostics: when troubleshooting the P0492 error code, I initially focused my attention on all SAI components located on top of the engine, such as the SAI pump, hoses, solenoids, vacuum hoses and reservoir, etc. I found it easier to remove all vacuum components and work on a workbench and running individual tests, with the invaluable help of a handheld vacuum tool. I did find the vacuum reservoir had a leak, and one vacuum line was damaged (mostly brittle due to heat / time). Also tested both solenoids with a 12-V DC power supply and then replaced the damaged components with new ones. The CEL was off for a few days, but it came back on, throwing the same error code. With great help of Ahsai on troubleshooting the O2 sensors readings during a cold startup cycle (thread here), it looked like the problem was an obstruction in one of the paths used by the SAI pump to blow cold air form the engine compartments into the catalytic converters. And because I didn’t wanted to work on my car during the cold season, I parked the project for the winter and lived with the CEL on for many months, certainly one of my joys in life ;) Solution: When the first nice spring days finally arrived, I used the opportunity to do this and other maintenance jobs in my car, like deep cleaning after the winter season (It’s my all-year-round daily driver), two axle rebuild job, etc. With regards to the exhaust manifolds removal procedure, where a broken bolt can quickly become a nightmare, I had already done some prep-work on all manifold bolts: driving the car until reaching running temperature, quickly jacking-up the car and loosen all exhaust bolts while still hot, thoroughly cleaned, anti-seize and remount. This method, while not everyone’s cup of tea, ended up being quite effective in my case. And when I finally removed both exhaust manifolds, where I was originally expecting lots of carbon buildups, I instead found a soft clay-like product (oil?), which was quite easy to remove with a finger nail (through the gloves, of course ;). I thoroughly pressure-washed all components, carefully avoiding to send the water jet directly into the exhaust valves / catalytic converters and the use of any degreasers. A 2,000 psi electric pressure-washer with a 10 degree spread nozzle can be extremely effective, particularly at short distances. Attached is a picture of the engine block after the pressure-washing job. Finally, a grey Scotch-brite, well lubricated in oil, for mirror-like surface finishes (well, in most cases). It honestly looked amazing… too bad I forgot to take a picture… my apologies. Finishing-up with another thorough cleanup of all exhaust bolts, a new thin layer of anti-seize and a complete car reassembly, and my P0492 error code is finally gone, hopefully for good! Cheers, Jones
Hey guys, So I'm having this issue that is driving me crazy. My SAI (Secondary AIr Injection) and Oxygen Sensor are not reaching "Ready Status" A little background about my car. 2006 Boxster S 3.2L FVD Exhaust system GMS Headers with 200 cell cats - has all 4 O2 sensors attached. 996 throttle body and distribution hose ECU Tuning Group tune I had the car up in BC Canada since 2009 (although it is a US car) and had no problems passing the sniffer and obdII tests - both before and after all the mods except for the ECU tune. I went to get my emissions testing done last week in Texas and failed due to the 2 systems being in not-ready status. I figured it might have to do with the cat delete (ROW) configured in the tune. I sent my ECU back to ETG in California and had them re-flash my ECU in order to re-enable the O2 sensors. I cleared all codes and figured I would start fresh. I drove the car about 120 miles and attempted to follow the drive cycle mentioned in the forums but it was really tough with the roads out here. Everything is in ready status except for the SAI, and the O2 sensor. I can manually start the SAI using the Durametric system so I would believe the pump is not bad; however, I'm not sure that I"m hearing the SAI start up when I cold start the engine. For testing purposes I unplugged my O2 sensors from both bank1 and bank2 and they both threw fault codes which confirms that the ECU tune re-activated my sensors. I've uploaded a few pictures with the results from a OBDII app as well as the Durametric Software to my Google Drive. I'm not quite sure how to interpret the Durametric Voltage results - especially the negative 50 V and -127V - seems quite odd. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ncE-o5M02DeUlLZVlxRV9hX3c Any help or guidance will be appreciated as I'm out of ideas. Thanks, Joel