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Pressed

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About Pressed

  • Birthday 09/13/1961

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    Charlotte, NC
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2003 Silver PT Cruiser (original owner) 63K miles
    1999 Triple Black Carrera Cabriolet 6 speed with 18" Victor Rims(Invo Nitto tires) and GHL High Performance Exhaust mufflers (91K miles)
  • Future cars
    Possibly a 2005 Porsche Carrera Turbo S convertible
  • Former cars
    1986 Subaru Brat FWD/4WD (5spd)(Manual trans)
    1983 Subaru GL Hatchback (Manual trans))
    2002Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4WD
    1995 Plymouth Neon (Manual trans))

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  1. It's been a while since I have logged into this forum but I was plagued by these 2 codes for a long time and when I had first purchased my 99 996, I recall more than a few occurrences when the car would not start until it cooled down but never quit while I was actually driving. I had some hesitations and poor fuel economy going on until I replaced the pre-cat Oxygen sensors. I also had the air injection valve replaced (the one located behind the alternator). The latter was rusted big time and when the mechanic turned it upside down onto the palm of my hand, lo and behold, rust granules galore spilled out. When you state Cylinders 4 and 6, are you referring to a misfire that your scanner picked up or what ?
  2. This has probably been covered, nonetheless I'm gonna ask. Are all Oil Filter Wrenches equal ? I see some available at Partsgeek, Pelican, Suncoast and even Walmart, the latter of which is considerably cheaper than most. Is it a 74mm, 74.2mm or 74.4mm. I have seen each on the DIY's for this procedure and is it 14 fluted or 15 fluted. Does it make a difference ?
  3. My wallet dictated that I purchase the traditional battery. One good thing was that Advanced Auto was willing to match SAM's price. The battery is an Autocraft Gold G48 with 730 CCA. I plan to upgrade to an AGM first chance I get. The store manager told me that I had a certain amount of time whereby I could "upgrade". I want to have the same type go back into the car that came out of it Y'know ?
  4. As always, you guys offer sound advice. Thanks to you all. I'm off to SAMS
  5. Hey Loren. Can I take this a step further? Would you ever recommend a battery with 680 cold cranking amps or would that be taking it a bit too far ? (yes I'm a penny pincher but not to the point of placing my ride in an unreasonably risky condition. I've always valued your input. What would be your "cutoff point" as far as cold cranking amps is concerned. I live near Charlotte, NC which experiences "relatively cold winters" for the south.
  6. Any thoughts. Duracell AGM batteries with 760 CCA at Sams appears to be well priced but Dang !!! It's @ 20 bucks cheaper than Advanced or Autozone which lists it @ $170.00+. Can I shop for a battery with 730 CCA instead without any potential risk? The battery that went out on me (although not completely out) was a Duralast Gold with 760 CCA. I'm just trying to save some here but still be smart about what I place into my ride.
  7. Thanks, JFP. I really appreciate the advice on my idling issue and the durametric tool, the latter of which lies in my realm of affordability . Thanks again.
  8. okay, I'm reading you loud and clear on this . Off to Advanced auto tomorrow for some CFC MAF sensor spray cleaner. I have a cheapie OBD scanner that doesn't read MAF values so I have really nothing to go by except for symptoms (in this case relatively low idle). Sure it will read long term / Short term trims , Freeze frame data and generic codes but nothing heavy duty ie: MAF readings (ya get what you pay for y'know ?) I really didn't want to invest in a costly scanner but for accurate information in pinning down the nature of issues that arise, I think it would be a wise choice. One more question though, what type of scanner would you advise for <
  9. I have read many posts regarding low idles on this MY where installation of a new MAF sensor didn't rectify the situation. Those MAF's cost a good penny also. I just wanted to see if there were alternatives to replacing the MAF and hoping for a higher idle. Perhaps a new oil filler cap and cleaning of the IAC valve contact. I would just be severely po'd if I installed a new MAF and no go on the idle.
  10. Hey guys. I need some thoughts on a relatively low idle situation that has plagued me since I purchased my 1999 Carrera 6spd Convertible @ 3 years ago. I purchased a used Throttle body on ebay last week. placed it on and am experiencing an even lower idle (@ 600 + RPM's (my original held the idle @ 625-650 RPM's with occasional blips to 700 RPM's when the car was hot) No fault codes seen on my scanner tool. Good acceleration and the car "breathes" well. I must admit I took the IAC valve and the TPS from the ebay purchase and placed it on my Throttle body. I did not place the purchased throttle body on my car since it was from an earlier Boxster 2.5l and I thought that the diameter would be less than that for a 3.4L Carrera throttle body. I had cleaned the my throttle body and IAC valve months ago and it didn't have the effect that I had expected..............still low idle. Well, this time I noticed some corrosion on the contacts which has me thinking that I should return the recently purchased Throttle body, IAC valve and TPS. I have attached a picture of my IAC valve after soaking it thoroughly with Carb cleaner and using a Q Tip to get to areas on it that I had neglected during my first cleaning. Do you guys thing that this corrosion can be the culprit of my low idle woes.?
  11. Pleasure to meet you Coy. Mmm Indian Trail eh ? My wife and I did some house hunting not far from Indian Trail in Waxhaw last year when we were still residing in Columbia, SC. Nice area. Horse country for sure. What are you driving on the weekends, Coy ?
  12. With that being said, I think the path before me is clear. DB Joe, you have been a well of information and I really do appreciate all the information you have given me in obtaining a better understanding of the systematic approach that one needs to consider in "thinking through" the issues which every 996 owner will inevitably face. Thanks again.
  13. I would like to give you a recent chronology of events on my ride. I was getting the infamous P1411 and P0410 codes for a good while (emissions codes). I went on ahead and had an indy replace both the Check valve and Air Change over Valve which is just behind the SAI pump. Pick the car up and noticed that there was no CEL illuminated. Cool, I'm thinking that this CEL problem is history. No sooner than getting down the rode about 300 ft and lo and behold the CEL illuminates. I just thought maybe the Indy never reset it and it's popping up as a stored fault code. Now I did take notice that the car was doing something different like the acceleration wasn't smooth but on the good side I could hear a different sound when the SAI check valve would close which I never heard when I still had the previous one in the car (It was toast and full of loose rusted bits which fell into my hand when the Indy turned it upside down into the palm of my hand). Anywho, took the car to Autozone and get a P0112 or P0102 . What ???. So now I'm thinking a new MAF. Next day I start cleaning the MAF as a money saver and notice that the Indy had left the connector off the MAF. Okay, cool. I reconnect it and CEL still lit so I disconnect negative battery cable, reconnect and no CEL. No CEL lit until after I start the whole TB and ICV cleaning (current code P1128 and P1130). I should mention also that the air filter that I just replaced was very dirty I'm almost embarrassed to say but I had cleaned the MAF before putting the airbox and all back while doing this recent TB and ICV cleaning. Do you think I should still go through the steps you outline above or can I eliminate a few ?
  14. Good evening DBJoe. Driving around to day (City driving) and a CEL comes on. I take it to Autozone for a read out the codes and they come up as P1128 and P1130. I already know what that entails after I checked out my Bentley's Manual. For some time, I had suspected that the Posret Cat O2 sensors needed replacing. Don't ask me why though. I had replaced the Pre Cat O2 sensors @ 2 months after taking possession of the car, replaced the Fuel line Vent Valve, The SAI check valve and air change over valve (this was the last thing done on the car before I decided to clean both the TB and ICV. Ya think I may have inadvertently created a vacuum leak when I started placing things back with this last DIY ? I have 1 post CAT O2 sensor and waiting to purchase another at a good deal (Bosch 13723) So far my suspicions on failing parts have been pretty "spot on" and I hoe this is the case. I doused the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner, placed in a new Hengst air filter and made sure that I was tightening everything to ensure a good seal on the intake. I want make intelligent decisions going forward towards clearing the cel and not just throwing parts at the issue like one may be prone to do out of frustration and/or impatience. Oh and I don't own a scanner (that's on the Christmas list) Where would you start ?
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