Pressed

It's been a while since I have logged into this forum but I was plagued by these 2 codes for a long time and when I had first purchased my 99 996, I recall more than a few occurrences when the car would not start until it cooled down but never quit while I was actually driving. I had some hesitations and poor fuel economy going on until I replaced the pre-cat Oxygen sensors. I also had the air injection valve replaced (the one located behind the alternator). The latter was rusted big time and when the mechanic turned it upside down onto the palm of my hand, lo and behold, rust granules galore spilled out. When you state Cylinders 4 and 6, are you referring to a misfire that your scanner picked up or what ?

This has probably been covered, nonetheless I'm gonna ask. Are all Oil Filter Wrenches equal ? I see some available at Partsgeek, Pelican, Suncoast and even Walmart, the latter of which is considerably cheaper than most. Is it a 74mm, 74.2mm or 74.4mm. I have seen each on the DIY's for this procedure and is it 14 fluted or 15 fluted. Does it make a difference ?

My wallet dictated that I purchase the traditional battery. One good thing was that Advanced Auto was willing to match SAM's price. The battery is an Autocraft Gold G48 with 730 CCA. I plan to upgrade to an AGM first chance I get. The store manager told me that I had a certain amount of time whereby I could "upgrade". I want to have the same type go back into the car that came out of it Y'know ?

As always, you guys offer sound advice. Thanks to you all. I'm off to SAMS

Hey Loren. Can I take this a step further? Would you ever recommend a battery with 680 cold cranking amps or would that be taking it a bit too far ? (yes I'm a penny pincher but not to the point of placing my ride in an unreasonably risky condition. I've always valued your input. What would be your "cutoff point" as far as cold cranking amps is concerned. I live near Charlotte, NC which experiences "relatively cold winters" for the south.

Any thoughts. Duracell AGM batteries with 760 CCA at Sams appears to be well priced but Dang !!! It's @ 20 bucks cheaper than Advanced or Autozone which lists it @ $170.00+. Can I shop for a battery with 730 CCA instead without any potential risk? The battery that went out on me (although not completely out) was a Duralast Gold with 760 CCA. I'm just trying to save some here but still be smart about what I place into my ride.

Thanks, JFP. I really appreciate the advice on my idling issue and the durametric tool, the latter of which lies in my realm of affordability . Thanks again.

okay, I'm reading you loud and clear on this . Off to Advanced auto tomorrow for some CFC MAF sensor spray cleaner. I have a cheapie OBD scanner that doesn't read MAF values so I have really nothing to go by except for symptoms (in this case relatively low idle). Sure it will read long term / Short term trims , Freeze frame data and generic codes but nothing heavy duty ie: MAF readings (ya get what you pay for y'know ?) I really didn't want to invest in a costly scanner but for accurate information in pinning down the nature of issues that arise, I think it would be a wise choice. One more question though, what type of scanner would you advise for <

I have read many posts regarding low idles on this MY where installation of a new MAF sensor didn't rectify the situation. Those MAF's cost a good penny also. I just wanted to see if there were alternatives to replacing the MAF and hoping for a higher idle. Perhaps a new oil filler cap and cleaning of the IAC valve contact. I would just be severely po'd if I installed a new MAF and no go on the idle.

But I'm not getting any fault codes.

Hey guys. I need some thoughts on a relatively low idle situation that has plagued me since I purchased my 1999 Carrera 6spd Convertible @ 3 years ago. I purchased a used Throttle body on ebay last week. placed it on and am experiencing an even lower idle (@ 600 + RPM's (my original held the idle @ 625-650 RPM's with occasional blips to 700 RPM's when the car was hot) No fault codes seen on my scanner tool. Good acceleration and the car "breathes" well. I must admit I took the IAC valve and the TPS from the ebay purchase and placed it on my Throttle body. I did not place the purchased throttle body on my car since it was from an earlier Boxster 2.5l and I thought that the diameter would be less than that for a 3.4L Carrera throttle body. I had cleaned the my throttle body and IAC valve months ago and it didn't have the effect that I had expected..............still low idle. Well, this time I noticed some corrosion on the contacts which has me thinking that I should return the recently purchased Throttle body, IAC valve and TPS. I have attached a picture of my IAC valve after soaking it thoroughly with Carb cleaner and using a Q Tip to get to areas on it that I had neglected during my first cleaning. Do you guys thing that this corrosion can be the culprit of my low idle woes.?

Pleasure to meet you Coy. Mmm Indian Trail eh ? My wife and I did some house hunting not far from Indian Trail in Waxhaw last year when we were still residing in Columbia, SC. Nice area. Horse country for sure. What are you driving on the weekends, Coy ?

With that being said, I think the path before me is clear. DB Joe, you have been a well of information and I really do appreciate all the information you have given me in obtaining a better understanding of the systematic approach that one needs to consider in "thinking through" the issues which every 996 owner will inevitably face. Thanks again.

I would like to give you a recent chronology of events on my ride. I was getting the infamous P1411 and P0410 codes for a good while (emissions codes). I went on ahead and had an indy replace both the Check valve and Air Change over Valve which is just behind the SAI pump. Pick the car up and noticed that there was no CEL illuminated. Cool, I'm thinking that this CEL problem is history. No sooner than getting down the rode about 300 ft and lo and behold the CEL illuminates. I just thought maybe the Indy never reset it and it's popping up as a stored fault code. Now I did take notice that the car was doing something different like the acceleration wasn't smooth but on the good side I could hear a different sound when the SAI check valve would close which I never heard when I still had the previous one in the car (It was toast and full of loose rusted bits which fell into my hand when the Indy turned it upside down into the palm of my hand). Anywho, took the car to Autozone and get a P0112 or P0102 . What ???. So now I'm thinking a new MAF. Next day I start cleaning the MAF as a money saver and notice that the Indy had left the connector off the MAF. Okay, cool. I reconnect it and CEL still lit so I disconnect negative battery cable, reconnect and no CEL. No CEL lit until after I start the whole TB and ICV cleaning (current code P1128 and P1130). I should mention also that the air filter that I just replaced was very dirty I'm almost embarrassed to say but I had cleaned the MAF before putting the airbox and all back while doing this recent TB and ICV cleaning. Do you think I should still go through the steps you outline above or can I eliminate a few ?

Good evening DBJoe. Driving around to day (City driving) and a CEL comes on. I take it to Autozone for a read out the codes and they come up as P1128 and P1130. I already know what that entails after I checked out my Bentley's Manual. For some time, I had suspected that the Posret Cat O2 sensors needed replacing. Don't ask me why though. I had replaced the Pre Cat O2 sensors @ 2 months after taking possession of the car, replaced the Fuel line Vent Valve, The SAI check valve and air change over valve (this was the last thing done on the car before I decided to clean both the TB and ICV. Ya think I may have inadvertently created a vacuum leak when I started placing things back with this last DIY ? I have 1 post CAT O2 sensor and waiting to purchase another at a good deal (Bosch 13723) So far my suspicions on failing parts have been pretty "spot on" and I hoe this is the case. I doused the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner, placed in a new Hengst air filter and made sure that I was tightening everything to ensure a good seal on the intake. I want make intelligent decisions going forward towards clearing the cel and not just throwing parts at the issue like one may be prone to do out of frustration and/or impatience. Oh and I don't own a scanner (that's on the Christmas list) Where would you start ?

Okay, DBJoe. I'm a glutton for punishment when it comes to learning how to solve issues with my ride. The 9 Volt battery cycling the door of the ICV back and forth. How does one accomplish this ? Rig some small gauge wires to the terminal of a 9V battery. One wire lead goes to one of the 3 pins on the ICV and the other goes to which other pin on the ICV ? I'm assuming that one of the pins on the ICV serves as a ground perhaps ? How long should it soak and how likely is it to actually solve my issue of a relatively low idle ? You've done this before so were you still being plagued by occasional "blips" or was the idle steady as a rock afterwards ?

Hey DBJoe, I just wanted to give a quick shout out to ya to say thanks for the advice. I took to heart what you said about shortening the length of the cable sheath and it having a negative impact on the part's overall function with the grommet serving as the fulcrum of the whole assembly so to speak. I get that. With all the strength I could muster without hurting myself and further damaging the cable/sheath, I was able to get most of the bulbous part of the cable through the compression nut and then formed another "compression point" with a worm clamp as you advised. I didn't even need the epoxy. I had a little scare when after replacing the cable through the square, replacing the throttle body and air box, I still felt tension as I pressed on the gas pedal. After a few pumps, I could feel something moving back into its neutral state and all was well. The idle air control valve and throttle body cleaning worked out very well. It still idles a bit low (640 RPMs to around 680) with occasional blips toward 700 RPMs. It has idled on the "south side" of 700 RPMs since I purchased it. Will I need to purchase a new IAC valve in the future ? Yeah but until I get a fault and no crazy stalls, I'm good. Determination/confidence are key with these DIY's y'know ? Chock it up to getting experience/confidence for future fixes. Thanks again, DB Joe. I appreciate the help.

Got it !!!!!! Thanks

Again, DBJoe thanks for the advice. Advice well given and advice well taken. I've got one more question for you though. In order to maximize the chance of it "holding together. wouldn't I first need to cut off the piece of outer sheath that's still attached to the grommet and then use the epoxy and slide the remaining outer sheath aft of the grommet into the grommet ? I'm convinced that the piece in behind the grommet in the photos is a piece of outer sheath that separated and is still attached to the grommet y'know? After you answer this question, I'm done. I just wanted to know this for "knowledge sake".

Thanks for the response, DBJoe. I had suspected that I may have severed the sheath and I think you have confirmed this. The price of the part is reasonable and I hope that the job isn't too labor intensive. I'm going to call now and get an estimate. When you mention about the McGiver method of using the epoxy, do you mean placing the epoxy on the edge of the outer sheath and let dry and hope it holds until I can make it to my local indy 2 miles away ? I'm definitely purchasing the new throttle cable but I'm wondering if the epoxy would hold long enough to get me to the indy (maybe place a smaller metal band where the two pices join) Whaddaya think ? Thanks again

DB Joe, I have some photos of throttle body I would like you to check out and. I'm more visual than conceptual. When I would push the plastic outer sheathing back into the engine bay, this metallic piece with the cable running through it would appear only to disappear as I would pull the plastic sheathing towards me. Can you tell if I accidently cut the plastic cable piece. The cable sheathing and that piece you see with the nut on it seem to be of the same diameter. Are you saying that I need to take the throttle cable out like I did the first time in order to get it snapped back into place? How can I know if the cable sheathing actually separated. I don't want to have to call a tow truck if this is something elementary that I just am having a problem understanding.

Hey DB Joe, thanks for the advice on this. When I was trying like nobody's business to unclip the cable so that I could back it out of the square hole on the TB housing, I took a pair of pliers to the cable trying to back it out. I hope I didn't let my frustration get the best of me. Like I said before, when I get in the car with the engine not running, It's almost as though I can feel the tension on the cable when I press on the gas pedal. It is not smooth at all and almost feels as though it could snap. This is the same thing you experienced ? Can you be more specific on the outer cable sheath being snapped into the plastic guide? Are you saying the plastic outer sheath needs to be placed over the end of the black plastic piece that protrudes out of the back of the square hole ? I'm trying not to make this more complicated than it needs to be. I have a very short piece of what appears to be outer sheathing attached to the back of the black plastic piece that is not actually attached to the rest of the sheathing. Is there a chance I inadvertently cut this piece?

Is there a doctor in the house for a 1999 Carrera Cab 6Spd ? Yesterday I cleaned my throttle body and IAC valve (no biggie), replaced all the parts and my throttle cable seems extremely tight at the level of the accelerator pedal yet the butterfly on the throttle body is closed (just a hair opening but I would think that that's okay) When I start it up the engine revs at full throttle. What the freak am I doing wrong ? Do I need to give the cable more play by adjusting a nut or something ? Any help is deeply appreciated as I have not had my ride on the road for @ 4 days and I need to know if the cleaning has resulted in a better idle/acceleration.

Yeah bro, I had that very same P0455 goin on. I'm just sayin that it sounds like your situation may be the same but emissions issues can be very complicated sometimes, like chasing gremlins. I would hear the bottle blowing sound when I would park and turn the car off after driving about 15 minutes to work (short commute). One thing I also noticed is that the exhaust note had changed. I have GHL high performance mufflers on my 1999 996 and this "whirring" sound was very audible when the failing fuel line vent valve was still in the car and cancelling out the GHL exhaust note (at least that's how my ears perceived it). Difficulty filling the gas tank ? That's another symptom (see pelican parts DIY replace fuel line vent valve). I printed out the Pelican DIY article and studied it over and over until my confidence was up to snuff (this was my very first DIY). The fuel line vent valve normally retails for @ $85.00 or so. I purchased mine from Specialized German out of Rancho Cordova which sells used parts for our rides for a reasonable price. I'm totally convinced that the gas cap and fuel line vent valve are major players in the P0455 code, notwithstanding the purge vent valve that you had purchased.

I had the same problem and It turned out to be the fuel line vent valve. One symptom the car may experience is a sound as though one is blowing across the top of a bottle. Another symptom I noticed was a kind of a honking sound when I would turn off the car almost like the sound a balloon makes when you let air out of it while pinching the escape opening. I don't know if you're experiencing this but in my case, it turned out to be this part and when I took the old one out, it had dirt big time around it and some webbing from a spider (the dead and desiccated spider was actually visible!!!!). Have you noticed any change in your exhaust note ?