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toolmonkey

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  • From
    near montreal
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2000 996
    2008 JKU
  • Future cars
    If I knew it would take the fun out of finding/getting them
  • Former cars
    too many to list

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toolmonkey's Achievements

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  1. Chuckle! yeah! I know better than to store a car like this. I just got lazy and procrastinated! Got me a new car and new project back then and just ignored this 996. At the time I drove it into my garage and wasn't planning to be storing it.... it just happened... I lost the enthusiasm to drive it again.....and too lazy to be bothered to sell it. It got brand new brakes (all 4) and rear tires the week it was stored...was ready for next season that never happened.....after sitting, the tires are likely scrap now too! oh well. good news : headlamps fixed. wasn't a biggie.... forgot to connect a relay feed after replacing battery. everything works again. So i scanned vehicle with a good generic scanner- all ok. Had codes: 33, 10, 23 in alarm.. erased and never came back. l (i figure they set because i keep battery disconnected all the time. hint: would be nice to have alarm codes and meaning stickied on some thread on forum. I had rpm showing while cranking in my DME data; and fuel pump gurgled when activated so next step I checked and had no fuel at all..... Had power at the pump cover...... so I ordered a new pump. project for next week will suck our old fuel and hopefully all will be ok..... hopefully no gum at injectors..... maybe i'll run it with injector cleaner canister..... clean the lines and system before reconnecting new pump. what's the regulated running fuel pressure of these 3.4l NA systems? )
  2. 2000 cab 996 tiptronic. Background: vehicle has been in storage closed non heated storage for last 7 years. left about 1/4 tank of fuel and would start it every 3-6 months and run till hot (in place-not on road). always check that fuel doesn't go to full empty.... but never had to add. about a year ago it seemed to have trouble firing up immediately- would only crank and would fire up after ~10 seconds, sometimes on second try (i would never crank for more than 15-20 seconds at a time). I told myself it was due to aging gas and or bleed out in lifters as they would rattle a few seconds on startup. 6 months ago i ran down theold weak battery cranking. Changed out, then when it started i had no headlamps. all other lamps work ok. figured the low voltage cranking blew my aftermarket HID projector installation. no worries, put on my todo list and would deal with that when i put back on road Last month: cranks fine (btw- cranking sound is always normal , good compression sound. even. etc) but never fires up. figured maybe empty or Very Very old gas so i added 20l fresh gas with stabilizer in it. same NO start (cranks but doesnt fire). everything works; door locks on key fob, in car, cabri top, all lights less headlamps. oiul pressure goes up on cranking. NOTE: my gas guage goes only to up a tiny bit and stays on the reserve orange? with 20 l it should be at least a quarter tank?? I also seem to remember a buzz sound long time ago (I think it was this car) i figured gas pump. Now I only hear a relay click a few seconds after i let go of key. Bottom line- more worried about why gas guage not going higher- is this an indication of something? should i look more at diagnosing ignition switch? or imobilizer alarm module (even though its in kind of dry storage) and all other functions work. any advise welcome. rem: is access to gas tank level sensor done from above or below. and fuel pump?
  3. After much research, I just bought a set of HTR ZIII for the rears. Research seems to point to them being very "sticky" and very predictable as to how and when they "break traction".... My only fear is that they look/sound like "squealers" on the videos I have seen. I prefer a tire that is rather quiet when it spins/slides. Too early/cold to bring the car out as of yet so have no personal experience with theses to share yet. If I like ...I shall scrap the yoko fronts and match tires....as is safest. Price vs reviews= A+... definitely a good tire to be considered. The only negative I have so far (and something known to me going into purchase) is that there is an inside and outside sidewall- so it is asymmetrical....yet the thread looks but is not considered directional.... the inside thread is cut in a curve....so it kind will look OFF mounted on vehicle. My last tires were directional but not asymmetrical....so my adjusted negative camber would wear them out inside .....and then to even them out ....I would dismount and mount them on opposing side rims (a labour intensive rotation). Not a possibility with these as the out has to remain out.....so be sure to retain factoty camber. PS: Loren....noticed you are running much wider tires on a NB C2.... may I ask what width rims, offset (or BS) you are running and if your fenders are stock.
  4. Guess I got my answer today... Just posting in case another like me wonders about those tabs. btw it's a 2000 996 C2 regular halogen headlamps It's a headlight height alignment/level tab- it's got little graduated lines (lines that indicate height by tab moving in/out) Got tired of staring at the yellowish/burnt inner lenses so decided to do something about it. Being the cheapskate that I am and not willing to splurge thousands on new headlamp units (not yet anyways);decided to attempt the "projector install MOD. If it goes wrong I guess I will buy new complete headlamps. Got me a kit of xenon projectors, baked my OEM headlamps, split them open (one done so far with no mishaps)....except somebody was not thrilled about a headlamp in the oven! This is when my failing vision finally realized the meaning of the tab and the adjustment lock knob within the unit. rem: as I pulled the headlamps off I also got an answer as to the burnt lenses....seems somebody ran aftermarket xenon bulbs in there....and left the ballasts behind after returning it to stock.
  5. This may sound like a stupid question but what is that little tab sticking out of the inner lens of regular (non projector) 996 headlamps? Mine , as seems to be common, have yellowing/burn marks on the top of the inner lens..(maybe somebody stuck an overated bulb sometime)... So, I was pondering of the possibilities of attempting to "open" the assembly and modifying it with projector type units. That little tab thingy kind of puzzled me. If I mess it up, guess I'll just buy new "modern" units.
  6. Even though there are no unusual noises, leaks etc... The internet and my "new to me" 2000 996 is almost making me lose sleep. Don't know how "REAL" this IMS issue is, but it sure cast cast doubt. Being a 2000 I would expect to find a double IMSb once opened, but one never knows! About to hit 160k km (100k miles)...so now time is as good as ever....if I want to enjoy the car and not worry .....for a while anyways. Two simple questions: what is the average useful life expectancy of a 3.4? this will impact what "type" of IMSbearing replacement I chose.... (as example, If these engines only tough ~200k km then OEM type bearing unit would be best, at 250-300k then I may look into a more permanent fix- of course; dependent if it is single or double. And is it necessary to drop the motor/transmission as a unit , then separate to replace IMSb or can a Tiptronic trans be easily dropped leaving the motor in the vehicle. As a domestic vehicle tech, I have no worries on "domestic setups" but honestly haven't even lifted a 966 to carefully look at what I'm in for. I quickly looked, but was more worried about looking for oil leaks when I picked up the car. (I did not expect to be "frightened" into replacing the IMSb). Given I can't preorder parts....so useless to tie up a lift.....Doing it on Jackstands (commercial grade ~3ft) and with 25+ years as a mechanic; what is a comfortable time frame to allot for such a job? (yes to air/electric impacts/ratchets).
  7. Any help would be appreciated. Picked up a 2000 996 cabriolet with a few "bugs". slowly trying to sort them out. My trade is a dealer tech (but for a Domestic brand) so am not quite so fluent in Porsche systems.....but very fluent in understanding body/wiring/automotive systems. here is the first "bug" I am dealing with I noticed the dome lights don't work, either when the drivers door is opened....or with the rocker switch on the lights.- with the ignition off.... but..... everything seems to work normal when the ignition is in the run position. Is there a dome overide switch elsewhere? I also noticed that when I turn the ignition off, -and open door (or not regardless)....the cluster always stays "awake" for a while- is this normal. The radio always shuts off after about 5 seconds of turning ignition to off...but not the cluster. Do these cars have a RAP (retained accessory power?).....and does it work with a door switch? The window slight up/down works fine so I would assume all the switches in the handle/latch should be ok. I have no wiring diagrams and could only find a 2002 owners manual; so my understanding of this system is limited. On a different subject, I would also like the wiring diagram for the convertible top.....to see if I can modify it's PITA operation a bit more to how I think it should work....(without buying a SmartTop module).. is there any chance of finding schematics online? If not, I guess I could call Porsche dealer on monday and have them fax me a copy. Does anybody know if the inputs to the module (such as speed) are digital?....or analog ...... as is the convertible module on a canbus (if it even existed in Porsche back then).
  8. So happy I found this site...and thread any help would be appreciated: type 4462 Y5037237
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