lewisweller

Results after some days and few hundred km's is no change. In fact I would think the Butt dyno is saying at top end I've lost a few horses and the weather is cool and dense air foggy here now so the turbo should be howling. The Audi does or was going like a train until some moron T boned it when my wife was driving my son to school yesterday. Lucky no one was hurt and two new doors and some body work in the B pillar will fix it good as new. 

Sorry back to the plugs.......

Growing impatient and not liking the look of the cracked plug insulator on cylinder 1 I'm going to replace these Beru plugs with NGK's iridium BKR6EIX or maybe the BKR7 instead one step cooler plug as I'm in middle east and lowest ambient temperature is 16oC and hits 50oC in summer easy. 

Pre-Gap spec is 0.8mm (.032") but some tuned turbo's have reduced this to 6.6mm (.026"). 

As this ctt has the E81 power pack is there any other plug better recommended? 

How could a faulty fuel pump or a filter for that matter create fuel smell outside vehicle? Are we talking fuel vapor escaping or rich exhaust smell? 

Renzo what was the bad running symptoms please? 

Did it run well when cold and then bad when warmed up or hot? 

2 hours ago, Ricky1 said:

Which fuse number was that?  My driver's side additional high beam is not working... thanks in advance.

Try fuse number 8, 20amp. 

8 hours ago, Seraj said:

Dear,

 

i have Porsche Cayenne S 2009, i had an issue in the engine, it was stuck and the car was not starting at all. i took to workshop specialized for German cars, they told me engine was due to piston break, they repaired and engine is fine. car is starting in well condition. but i found 3 error codes during the diagnose:

 

1- 0293 Multi-function switch (PRNDS)

2- 1312 CAN Drive

3- U0103 Lost communication with gear shift module

 

because the gear is not communicating with shift module i receive a sound when i shift my gear and gears doesn't change when i drive in D.

 

please can somebody help or support

 

regards,

Assuming the obvious stuff.....battery good and no blown fuses or loose disconnected connectors or broken wires under the seat or under the front carpets wiring loom water ingress and corroded wires?

0103 Code points towards the shift lever magnets not making the circuit board activate the signal to tell the module which gear you selected. 

Common problem the black plastic shift cover plate is broken or the magnets detached or come loose. Some people have needed to super glue the magnets in place again. 

Strip down and inspect. 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/11-BODY-Shift_Gate_Trim_Replacement/11-BODY-Shift_Gate_Trim_Replacement.htm

Other possible things to check is the connector going to the side of the transmission is not wet corroded or loose? Picture diagram part number 1. Refered to as the F125 multi function Switch (hence code 0293).

Also more unlikely a control module fault. 

Re-gapped all beru oem platinum plugs to 0.7mm from the spec gap of 0.8mm. 

Plugs look OK to me, possibly a bit on the hot lean side?

What I did find was plug from cylinder 1 had three cracks in the ceramic insulator running from top to bottom! The cracked track was dirty so must have been tracking for a while. 

(Some people say dropping the plug, over tightening or wrong angle with socket could cause this, but as the crack is blackened I don't think so). 

I put in a used plug from before for now until I can go buy a new one. 

Short drive home pretty much the same, felt fine at higher rpm and wanted to hesitate at lower rpm as the boost and load comes in. 

I'm considering getting ngk plugs as I don't rate beru much. Maybe a heat range cooler as well as its OK when cold and only starts bucking when warm. No codes as usual. 

Any thoughts guys? 

17 minutes ago, angusc said:

I replaced all rear bumper sensors but still the same problems.when put in to reverse the two red segments light and a 3 second solid tone is emitted. Then tone stops and red lights stay on. Front system working ok. Does anyone have any other suggestions.....where is the rear park assist control module located and is it likely to be the fault or worrying around the rear

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

Rear left side of boot.

Follow link my friend. FYI get a used module of the same year no need to reprogram plug and play if only the module is faulty. Check the wiring that runs under the boot floor for damage. 

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/785774-park-assist-control-module-replacement.html

Happy new year 

I am being a broken record now but is your battery in good shape? 

Starting to see a lot of people with codes as the winter has come upon us and suspect batteries are alarmingly common with our cars. 

Officially the modules are supposed to be coded to you car but some people have had success by using a used module from the same  year/spec/option cars ie for comfort control modules.

A cheap one off ebay might not be a bad gamble if you think module is the issue. 

FYI modules are not that frequently faulty. It's usual associated items. I assume when you checked the connectors and wiring that you also confirmed all fuses related are good? 

6 hours ago, paulwu said:

LOL..indeed! I am in Montreal, Quebec it is now -13C **** winter. Could not believe I just paid $300 for a brand new AGM battery!

 

After full charged the battery it is fine now whole day of driving..should I claim for warranty the battery?

Yer why not claim. If it's under warranty. If the battery is defective it will continue to drain. 

53 minutes ago, paulwu said:

Yes it is the low voltage issue that caused the PSM failure. Thanksfor the info and helping to confirm the issue; very helpful!

Your welcome. The winter is playing it's role in bringing suspect batteries to the attention of owners by way of random codes. 

Would be great if Porsche could just have one code that says"Your battery is s**t please replace it". Lol

3 hours ago, mbagge01 said:

I reduced my spark plug gap to .026mm which was recommended by EVOM who I got my tune from. They recommend Denso Platinum TT plugs

.026 inch you mean? Which is 6.6mm 

Any reductions in power or mpg by running a tighter gap? 

I may go ahead and pull all plugs and regap to 0.7mm just for the hell of it. 

I'm running out of idea to fix this car with no codes and nothing to follow. 

13 minutes ago, mbagge01 said:

It ended up being that I had a leak in the vacuum line going to the wastegates as if would not hold pressure when tested and also a leak in the boost control lines to the turbo. They were not massive leaks but when tested under prolonged pressure, they would not maintain pressure.

Glad you got it fixed, Shame, I have changed those pipes already. 

How did you get on with spark plug gaps? I'm running beru oem plugs at 0.8mm as standard spec. I thought about reducing the gap to 0.7 to see if the warm running misfire would reduce or disappear. I know on high boost the spark can be "blown out" or struggle to spark under lean high load conditions of combustion. 

Any advice on gapping? Any alternative ngk plugs better. Ive always used ngk or iridium plugs without any problems. 

The turbo had a different cylinder coating to the S engines so had much less chance of bore scoring but bores scoping is wise. 

From cold many things can cause some sounds and it's hard to pinpoint. The SAI pumps are running and pulsing air into the exhaust when cold starting, the injection can sound more noise at cold and also the hydraulic valve lifters and running gear can also make noises as the engine warms and expansion takes place the noise should reduce and leave a gentle burble of a v8 engine with stable idle. 

If your not a diy person with spare cash and empty weekends I suggest you stay away. 

7 hours ago, JeremyW said:

I wish I would have read this post earlier.  I have a 2005 cayenne s and I am chasing down an abs/ psm warning light with a P1276 code.  In the face of having to replace the ABS module (my wiring harness appears visually to be fine) I thought I would invest the $15 on a new brake light switch in the hopes that it may be the miracle cure that others have experienced.  The pig is fully apart and imagine my surprise when the brake light switch is non-existent under the dash and I discovered this post.  Just to confirm am I correct there is no pushrod switch in my car but rather it is electrical in nature despite the part supposedly fitting a 2003 - 2010 cayenne?  Thanks.

Lol I made the same mistake. The switch is a hydraulic integral one on the abs pump or the master cyclinder.

For your fault code first check your battery is OK. 12.6v  engine off ignition off and 14v engine at idle or any rpm stable. 

Then check wiring for damage and moisture around connectors to the abs pump. 

Lastly the abs pump may have an electrical issue.

good luck. 

On 12/08/2013 at 3:04 AM, mbagge01 said:

On inspecting on how to car drives some more, I think it has something to do with the way the boost comes on. If I am around 2-3k and give it WOT, the boost gauge shoots up and it does the weird surging issue. If I give it part throttle to get the boost to around 0.4 first and then give it WOT, I don't seem to get the problem as much when the boost pressure raises. If I hit WOT at around 4500-5000k, I don't seem to have the problems either. I already have a new boost solenoid valve and MAP valve and I am wondering if I should change out my changeover valve. Could it be possible that I am having boost spikes or my boost is raising to fast due to the changeover valve not opening properly causing the diverters to open erratically, affecting boost control?

Did you ever resolve this? The descriptions you give about cold and warm running seem to mimic exactly what I have and my ctt is standard except for the e81 power kit from factory. 

If run from cold it is great absolutely perfect. As soon as the temp reaches 70oC ish it will miss on acceleration between 1-3k rpm then clear to redline OK. 

Pulling timing sounds correct or a lean misfire as the temp has risen and now it's no longer on warm up enrichment. 

1 hour ago, tdatk said:

I am suffering the same issues of building only .04 bar boost. After pulling and inspecting all the related vacuum /pressure lines, visually checking wastegate operation and both diverter valves, everything seemed ok. Still only .04b boost. I know the turbos are spinning ie;.04b on the gauge sooooooo, There are only 3 things that could be holding me back, diverter valves, change-over valve, N75 valve.....  I pulled the change-over valve and plugged the vacuum and boost feed lines. I then borrowed the check valve from the pressure line and put in series my vacuum/pressure gauge on a "T". I then pressurized the diverter valve lines with 7b air knowing the check valve would hold the pressure....it worked perfectly (see attached picture). I did a test run and  it built .08bar before popping off, but not for longer than a second.....hmmmmm, at least I knew it was capable!!!! I then decided to disconnect the wastegate line from the N75 valve and try again....total success, it pumped right up to .08 + b and stayed there. So, reflecting, I am going to replace, the N75 valve, the change-over valve and both diverter valves. I'm super happy that I confirmed the turbos were capable and the controls are just not doing what they should. Hopefully the bastard computer is not interfereing and limiting boost, if that's it I'll have to go down that road.

Anyway, here's a couple pics of how to confirm diverter valve are working.

 

Tim

Sounds like limp mode! Have you got an over boost code by any chance? 

If you disconnected the n75 valve pipe that goes to the T and then to each waste gate then drove the car it would effectively not let the wastages open, it would hold boost to the max the turbo can make and maybe trigger over boost maybe not. 

The point I'm making is, it seems as though your systems are working but your getting over boost and the dme is limiting boost by opening the divertor valves and leaking off excess boost hence 0.4bar. 

So check the n75 pipe from the left turbo to the bottom of the n75 valve (the boost reference pressure pipe this is, difficult to check unless you disconnected it cos it's obviously a straight through pipe the the turbo outlet) and also the n75 valve pipe that T off to each waste gate to ensure no leaks. At 7-10psi you will hear the wastages open and no escaping air noise should be heard at all. 

If this all checks out I have another test for the change over valve and the check valves attached to the manifold. 

12 minutes ago, Nomorejags said:

Hey there thanks for all the input. I've been a bit tied up for the holiday. I was looking for the resistance of the post cast sensor but thank you for posting the pre-cat I was unable to find that on the internet also so hopefully someone can now benefit from the info. I was able to get my hands on a new Bosch post cat sensor. Resistance measured 9 ohms exactly. I plan to wire up the circuit with a 9ohm 20watt resistor and see if that does the trick for me. Ill be sure to post back with results. May I ask what code you were getting that led to the replacement of your sensor? Thanks again.

No codes really. I once got a lean code for bank 1 whilst having a vacuum pipe leak. But once fixed the code erased and never returned. I diagnosed the bad sensor by graphing it on vcds and it was apparent the milliamp value was low and also during snap throttle it wouldn't go up to a peak rich value which means it's a "lazy" sensor with slow and reduced performance. 

After replacement the bank 1&2 sensors are like mirror images and follow each other perfectly. 

I'm still struggling to get to the bottom of stuttering misfire when engine is warm. Throttle body is whining which is suspect. 

Nomorejags you gone awol?

7 hours ago, thor1974 said:

I drove now 25 miles with the Car and  sometimes you hear how the ABS Module starts working and the PSM starts flashing. the same I have  now with the other Porsche too

Assuming your tyres and wheels are all the same sizes and even wear rates and even tyre brand not mixed up on same axle? Then your likely having a wheel speed sensor intermittent fault. The fuse blown or missing would not be intermittent. 

I would start with this as it likely the cheapest solution Fix, sometimes just dirt on the sensor or in the slots of the pickup ring can do this. Remove them and clean and refit and test. 

If you have software you can check the sensor on each Wheel. 

2 hours ago, paulwu said:

Hello Guys,

 

Needing your help for the flying pig; problem one coming another, never finished!

 

2004 Cayenne-S 210K kms. Today suddenly the PSM failures Workshop yellow warning light on while on the road. It were on and off during past years guess mostly because of low voltage.

 

This time with a new and strong battery just changed 2 month ago; alternator with 14V charing; the PSM failures Workshop light stays steady unlike before would got disappeared after off and restart. After some google there is one mentioning about the steering angle sensor; needing you guys opinions.   

 

After hooked up the diagnostic tool I could not disable the PSM light and got new errors:

 

Under DME: P0102 mass air flow circuit.

Under transmission: 1314 DME control module

 

Getting more challenges; my pig is the lucky one that wining all the rewards! 

 

Thanks,

 

Paul

I've had both them codes and not to sound like a broken record it was my new battery! I've gone through 3 since March. All replaced under warranty as defective. Your charging voltage is 14v which is perfect but what's the battery voltage with engine off and also in the morning after leaving the car standing over night. 12.6v is essential less than is a problem. 

16 hours ago, mbagge01 said:

So, I seem to have found a fix to the headlight adjustment error I was getting but not entirely sure how to explain it and maybe someone on here might have some insight. I initially replaced both d1s bulbs and headlight control modules (ballasts) and was getting the error, but with both lights working fine. The new ballasts I placed had the same hardware and software part numbers, but different from the older ballasts that were in the car. I then went and changed the right sided ballast back to the old one and the error went away. When I placed the new one back in, the error returned. Given both ballasts are the same part number and turn on the light appropriately why would one of them cause the headlight adjustment error. Could it be an short somewhere on the internal wiring of the ballast causing the error or do some ballast require programming.

Where are the new ballast from?  Both new or just one and both same suppier? 

I'm betting fake "oem" ballast is the problem a lot of issues with "oem" fakes on amazon eBay etc

Don't think reprogramming is required. 

Unless I have incorrect info the fuse on left is not psm related items and the fuse on right 26 is not used. 

This problem sounds more like a wheel speed sensor? 

10 hours ago, Ddavidoff said:

Buy a new one and replace it. I think they are only about 175.


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Good point I didn't think to check the cost and assumed it would be mega money but alas it's not that expensive. Will check my local Bosch distributor if they have one. EBay one is only  £63. 

Thanks 

Having fixed so many thing since buying this CTT there still remains weird running. 

If cold the car runs good no stutter but as soon as it's warmed up it misfires through 1k-3k rpm and then clears to redline nicely. 

After replacing bank1 precat lambda sensor I'm now happy with the graph data from the lambda sensors. 

So this doesn't look like a lambda sensor open loop vs closed loop situation causing the misfire when warm. 

The car is very temperamental for no apparent reason. But if I do the throttle body reset (key on pedal down for 5 second, key off, then key on wait for 60secs the key off, then start engine it really does change how the car behaves!

The stuuter kangaroo is still there but much less and throttle response is back to something expected. 

To accompany this temperamental performance is a high pitched whine from the throttle body/ inlet manifold area and jerky peaky gear shifts. 

The DC motor controlling the throttle butterfly can cause problems I've read, I checked the potentiometer readings and plotted on graph and they look fine no jumps or gaps in the resistance reading of the opposing scales. Did the adaption also it works fine and has adapt value of 11 when finished. Is 11 correct or a high value?

I'm considering removing the throttle body and stripping it down but it's a delicate piece of equipment and I don't want to bugger it up. 

Any advice diy or repairs anyone has done to fix their throttle body??

7 hours ago, thor1974 said:

got the cable from ross tech

Download version 15.7.1 and try again. 

3 hours ago, thor1974 said:

i have VCDS 16.8 and I don't get response from the controller module to get to the adjustment. I drove the Porsche first it was a hopping bunny because the front suspension was complete down but after driving it pumps up. after 2 days parking the front goes down again.

Chinese cable perhaps?