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lewisweller

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lewisweller last won the day on September 21

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About lewisweller

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  • From
    dubai uae
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    CAYENNE TURBO(S) E81 power kit option, 2006 WITH GENUINE 2008 FACELIFT KIT CONVERSION
    AUDI A4 B8.5 3.0T S-LINE Revo Tuned stage 1+ 400+bhp 550nm torque
  • Future cars
    VEYRON (dream on)
  • Former cars
    Golf R 2012 APR STAGE 2+ (Street beast)
    GOLF GTI 1.8 20vT Jabbasport tuned (my first love)

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  1. Well done sir! Yet another electrical gremlin for the cayenne and another problem fixed by coil pack replacement although who would have guessed that without prior knowledge or experience it can cause alternator charging issues?? Do enjoy.
  2. I don't know if that module will require some coding to your car? Assuming you don't have durametric or vagcom? Often if you buy a module from exactly the same model spec options etc etc must be Exactly!! it wont need coding. I also wonder if this will fix it, have you considered high resistance in some wiring which increases as it heats up? Question is what wiring? Minefield .......
  3. Kessy module is under the dash just up above the accelerator pedal. I think the module next to the rear comfort control module is the level control module?
  4. I would have thought it wouldn't crank if the immobilizer was the issue? Not quite sure. I'm still not sold on it not being a fuel issue perhaps. Really only testing and ruling out things will get you closer to the cause without fault codes to help guide you.
  5. Fuel pressure is a possibility. There is a fuel pressure regulator which is supposed to hold 3 bar after ten minutes when engine is stopped IIRC, if that fails you go to crank and don't have any fuel pressure available, hence long crank to build pressure then it starts. I remember also the fuel filter has a non return valve in it which can fail. Also fuel pumps are notorious for being a pain, weak pumps, leaky pipes, clogged suction screens etc etc. I've been inside my tank a few times and replaced all these items on my 06 ctt when I had it. Testing fuel pressure requires a fuel pressure test kit with correct Schrader fittings and a specific procedure.
  6. Ran great (past tense) or stills runs great (when it starts)? A list of possibilities but yes a good running low mileage engine shouldn't have these problems. Got any fault codes? The symptoms are too vague to narrow down a cause yet.
  7. Erm im hedging a bet the battery(s) are ok if cranking is faster than normal. Low compression can cause faster cranking and no start or hard starting symptoms. Would suggest doing compression test first.
  8. Generally tightening (torque evenly) the bolts can either reduce or stop leaks or make it worse, bit of a gamble. You could try a thicker oil depending on your climate? Most climates don't need a 0w oil. 15w40 can work in warmer climates, even a 10w40 is fine down to -10 or lower. These stop leak products are not advisable IMHO. Unless the car isn't a "keeper". You may be putting off the inevitable mate, need to be dropped and resealed properly?
  9. Well well well. Item number 6. It's actually next to the kessy unit under the dash (drivers side) (lhd) probably right of the accelerator peddle and up about 40cm.
  10. Thomas, the pump literally is used to make sure the hot coolant flows back and circulates properly to the heater matrix(s)to keep passengers warm, it also send it back to the rear heater matrix (if fitted). Some cayenne have a.c. evaporator and heater matrix in the boot as well as in the lower dash. "Four zone climate control" option I believe it was called. The "rest" button just runs this pump when the engine is off and the passengers are asking for warm air still from the interior fan hence hot coolant is required to circulate by electric pump. Hello from the UK my friend.
  11. I've looked and can't locate yet where that module is! I've got a hunch it's under the seat next to battery?? I don't have a cayenne any longer so I can't check myself. Definitely worth a cheap used eBay punt if you can locate where it is. PLEASE BE AWARE ... the module is different depending on MY and options fitted. Check first. If you find your module take it apart and check first for something obvious, I would, but your risk. A clue is that it sits in a bracket part 15 which looks to be mounted horizontally which means it won't be hanging around in the dash I very much doubt, it got to mounted somewhere quite large and flat!!! The TCM transmission control module was under the passenger (LHD) seat I know for sure, I removed it and tested mine! It might be next to the TCM? Can't remember. Flip both seats back and check. Good luck.
  12. Control unit issue perhaps? It seems this module is responsible for charging and permissions to run certain things like a.c. fan, turning off things to save power if required etc. And must also be the control for the "exciter" cable. Diagnostic required to test this module operationally. I remember reading at full throttle it also cuts off the alternator to deliver full power acceleration! Control Unit, Elec S - Genuine Porsche G95561802701 Known as: control unit vehicle electrical system
  13. Check the crankshaft sensor. Sensor End should be clean and not damaged. Check the resistance also. Other correlation issues turned out to be timing chain issues, stretching, jumping a tooth, tensioners snapped/collapsed etc etc. More diagnostics required........ If the fuel was the root cause, dirt in tank, filter clogged now ?? How that relates to p0016 idk ??
  14. If air is in the system you can tell cos in the morning after its cooled completely it will be low level in expansion tank and need topping up. This may take a few days of topping off to get full in my experience. But why? Had work done recently? Otherwise the turbo coolant T's at back of engine are a possible leak point and the dreaded pipes under the manifold or the water pump itself or alternator, the list goes on..... I'll list below the overheating possible causes I know of: 1. Head gasket failure I had, would over heat at idle due to low relative coolant flow and hot combustion gases entering the coolant. 2. Serpentine belt slippage on water pump 3. Water pump impeller blades broke or excess clearances reducing pumping performance. 4. Thermostat or fan switching control 5. Fans not running 6. Rad blocked. 7. Air locks, hard to bleed this engine manually, best to let self bleed, cool to stone cold and top off daily until full. 8. ECT sensor faulty My guess is water pump, my theory, blades are snapped/clearances are incorrect between impeller and housing (worn pump bearings allows contact of impeller to housing) . At idle flow is enough to cool engine and turbo's, at speed the heat is too much and the flow is still poor due to the blades snapped. You would amazed by the heat difference from idle compared to 3k rpm.
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