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Get the disc checked on the car with dti (dial test indicator), if result shows they are warped, remove discs and recheck the disc and the hubs separately. You need to identity where the issue is. If the hubs pass the dti test and the discs fail then this points to two issues, the discs are poor quality and susceptible to warping (bad batch or metal heat treatment process), or the caliper/pad is not functioning correctly, sticking binding, uneven pressure etc. On my ctt the brakes would squeal and I regularly had to strip off pads and clean and apply copper grease and also anti-squeal fluid to pad surface. I wonder if your brakes are binding and causing over heating this may explain the previous hub warping issues as well? Trying to think outside the box now without throwing more parts and money at it for the same reoccurrences.
I did mine drain refill a few times. It always drained about 950ml and refilled about the same. As long as it comes out of the fill plug it's enough. Let it drain any excess from the fill plug. Level car is important.
Could be the pedal switch faulty, try disconnecting the plug and see if the BL go off. Don't remove the BL switch unless you have a new one, they are a one time fit affair apparently. Other issues can be the rear comfort control module faults. Get the battery charged and read the fault codes I guess would be a start also.
Yeah it tickled my (wicked) British humour button, I didn't mean any offence. I often answer my own questions on this forum as despite the vastness of the Web etc amazingly hard to find info on some stuff, but it's good for someone else in future to have the answer too. What I do detest is the thread which lasts 8 pages and result in ......... No conclusion and goes dead arrggghhhhhh how annoying.
That's funny answering your own post asking why no one thought about the filter and neither had you at that point. Hehe. I jest, not attacking. ...... It's probably likely you got oil leak ( common valve cover gaskets leak) which is getting burnt off and drawn through the AC. A new filter is freshly carbon impregnated so it absorbs the smell to an extent. Like airplane seats and farts.
lewisweller replied to DAVIDS04's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/17-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Strut_Replacement/17-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Strut_Replacement.htm Item 23 mate
I had issues with my AC sounds the same as yours, low pressure looks normal but high pressure doesn't move and ultimately the compressor control valve was all that needed to be replaced and worked brilliant after even in hot middle east. No need for 1,000's dollar of parts and labour. I bought the CCV and had local garage discharge system, swap CCV, vaccum for 20mins then, add 5ml of oil, regas to 1150grams(if 4 zone) or 750grams (if 2 zone). You can check my post, I think I wrote a decent amount of info and pictures. CCV is held in with a Circlip and is accessible from underneath without removing anything except the undertray. Found it after I wrote above.........
lewisweller replied to samkelly's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Had them several other cars, seem to be OK.
lewisweller replied to DAVIDS04's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Erm I think you mean the parking brake is saying it's on after released? If so the strut which hold the foot brake lever in place after release is weak and needs replacing. It's a 2 min job if that is what it is. Easy way to confirm is lift the parking brake pedal up and if the light goes off then it's the strut issue. Or I'm totally miss understanding what you mean.
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/986829-2008-cs-with-p1023-error-code.html This sounds like the same issue. Check valve built inside. Whole hpfp needs to be changed. Watch out for the cheap ones, infact even Porsche had some go bad after only a few 1,000 km. Some guys are on there 2nd or 3rd hpfp for similar symptons. Expense item so make sure it's that before you shell out.
Just a note. I had an alternator seize up and stall my engine on a roundabout, would not start with jumpers or substitute battery. A lot of head scratching later I remove the serpentine belt and the car fired right up. Checked all the pulleys and alternator was jammed. The fact yours ran for 15 seconds is suspicious of something seizing up......or the starter didn't disengage, normally you would hear that though.
Well to get to the rear main seal they have to split the engine and transmission and remove the flywheel thus exposing the crankshaft main oil seal. The torque convertor seal is right there so it's a no brainer one would have thought and only a 40 dollar part. Maybe they did it without you knowing but I would ask so you know. If in the future you get red transmission fluid leaking out the bell housing holes that's the torque convertor seal leaking and the whole process needs to be repeated. I had it done on mine before selling it. What a pita.
I hope they changed your torque convertor seal as well or you might be in for a nasty surprise one day.
Set suspension to max height and switch off regulation and there is enough room to go under just, but to be comfortable jack it up a bit as well and use jack stand for safety. Happy new year