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Everything posted by lewisweller

  1. Get the disc checked on the car with dti (dial test indicator), if result shows they are warped, remove discs and recheck the disc and the hubs separately. You need to identity where the issue is. If the hubs pass the dti test and the discs fail then this points to two issues, the discs are poor quality and susceptible to warping (bad batch or metal heat treatment process), or the caliper/pad is not functioning correctly, sticking binding, uneven pressure etc. On my ctt the brakes would squeal and I regularly had to strip off pads and clean and apply copper grease and also anti-squeal fluid to pad surface. I wonder if your brakes are binding and causing over heating this may explain the previous hub warping issues as well? Trying to think outside the box now without throwing more parts and money at it for the same reoccurrences.
  2. I did mine drain refill a few times. It always drained about 950ml and refilled about the same. As long as it comes out of the fill plug it's enough. Let it drain any excess from the fill plug. Level car is important.
  3. Could be the pedal switch faulty, try disconnecting the plug and see if the BL go off. Don't remove the BL switch unless you have a new one, they are a one time fit affair apparently. Other issues can be the rear comfort control module faults. Get the battery charged and read the fault codes I guess would be a start also.
  4. Yeah it tickled my (wicked) British humour button, I didn't mean any offence. I often answer my own questions on this forum as despite the vastness of the Web etc amazingly hard to find info on some stuff, but it's good for someone else in future to have the answer too. What I do detest is the thread which lasts 8 pages and result in ......... No conclusion and goes dead arrggghhhhhh how annoying.
  5. That's funny answering your own post asking why no one thought about the filter and neither had you at that point. Hehe. I jest, not attacking. ...... It's probably likely you got oil leak ( common valve cover gaskets leak) which is getting burnt off and drawn through the AC. A new filter is freshly carbon impregnated so it absorbs the smell to an extent. Like airplane seats and farts.
  6. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/17-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Strut_Replacement/17-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Strut_Replacement.htm Item 23 mate
  7. I had issues with my AC sounds the same as yours, low pressure looks normal but high pressure doesn't move and ultimately the compressor control valve was all that needed to be replaced and worked brilliant after even in hot middle east. No need for 1,000's dollar of parts and labour. I bought the CCV and had local garage discharge system, swap CCV, vaccum for 20mins then, add 5ml of oil, regas to 1150grams(if 4 zone) or 750grams (if 2 zone). You can check my post, I think I wrote a decent amount of info and pictures. CCV is held in with a Circlip and is accessible from underneath without removing anything except the undertray. Found it after I wrote above.........
  8. Erm I think you mean the parking brake is saying it's on after released? If so the strut which hold the foot brake lever in place after release is weak and needs replacing. It's a 2 min job if that is what it is. Easy way to confirm is lift the parking brake pedal up and if the light goes off then it's the strut issue. Or I'm totally miss understanding what you mean.
  9. https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/986829-2008-cs-with-p1023-error-code.html This sounds like the same issue. Check valve built inside. Whole hpfp needs to be changed. Watch out for the cheap ones, infact even Porsche had some go bad after only a few 1,000 km. Some guys are on there 2nd or 3rd hpfp for similar symptons. Expense item so make sure it's that before you shell out.
  10. Just a note. I had an alternator seize up and stall my engine on a roundabout, would not start with jumpers or substitute battery. A lot of head scratching later I remove the serpentine belt and the car fired right up. Checked all the pulleys and alternator was jammed. The fact yours ran for 15 seconds is suspicious of something seizing up......or the starter didn't disengage, normally you would hear that though.
  11. Well to get to the rear main seal they have to split the engine and transmission and remove the flywheel thus exposing the crankshaft main oil seal. The torque convertor seal is right there so it's a no brainer one would have thought and only a 40 dollar part. Maybe they did it without you knowing but I would ask so you know. If in the future you get red transmission fluid leaking out the bell housing holes that's the torque convertor seal leaking and the whole process needs to be repeated. I had it done on mine before selling it. What a pita.
  12. I hope they changed your torque convertor seal as well or you might be in for a nasty surprise one day.
  13. Set suspension to max height and switch off regulation and there is enough room to go under just, but to be comfortable jack it up a bit as well and use jack stand for safety. Happy new year
  14. Thomas ours is easier to do as there is no hpfp or harness in the way of the sensor plug harness on the 03-06 ctt. The locations are the same as the diy posted and it helps to have a friend in my case the wife work from the top and you work from underneath, disconnect from top and bottom and pull old one out from bottom. Fit new sensor by dropping it from the top down with you waiting at the bottom to grab it and fit. Piece of cake really compared to other nightmare repairs ie alternator.......
  15. Thick Oil additive Lucas for example and auction it. That's what some independent garages do as well but sell to private buyers offering no warranty. Scandalous I know. At least in auction buyers tend to be in the trade and know the risks the price reflects this. Not the most upstanding course of action but let's face it every car at an auction is there for a reason.
  16. Check for vacuum leaks. Lots of helpful stuff here. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche_Cayenne_Tech.htm
  17. Seeing around 5k for that block and pistons plus another 2-3k at least for the work and consumables, head bolts, maybe new valves costing a fortune, gaskets, oring seals vac pipes surely brittle and break, fluids I'm screaming noooooooo. It will cost more than you expect I did double head gasket and spent 6k! The part list just keep growing. Having bought a 2006 ctt and then having to spend the best part of 7,000 on repairs over 14months I would say don't do it. Your still left with a car of no additional value and your be wishing you sold it and moved on long ago when the next big expensive repair is required. For example: front diff, transfer case, rear diff, steering column failure and control module, steering rack seals, alternator, AC compressor, DME failure, water leaks Turbo T, pipes under intake manifold, any combo of pumps, sensors etc failure and diagnostics to fix. This is excluding normal servicing, brakes, Tyres etc All costing 1,000's to fix. Stick it in an auction and spend your hard earned dollar on a less deep money pit.
  18. Wizard its only been 15 miles you could still be on to something with the Octane ......lol. I've been so wrong many times .......it's all good. Merry Christmas guys all the best.
  19. I think the crank code is triggered as a result of the bad running. My bet is the hpfp is the real issue here. It's expensive I know, so understand your hoping its the crank sensor at 70 bucks instead. I hope I'm wrong and your right for your wallets sake. Good luck.
  20. Classic hpfp symptoms, software will show the pressures which identify the specified and actual, this will tell the story more accurately. Fuel filter can be blocked but less likely. Low pressure fuel pressure regulator and low pressure fuel pump (left primary) can also cause long cranking and struggling to rev up. Don't waste money on parts until you confirm the fault.
  21. The SAI pumps themselves are prone to impellor damage and sooting up with dirty exhaust Gases that can leak past the check valve. Could be worth getting a t40 screwdriver and whipping off the SAI and opening them up to check inside and give them a good clean. There is a foam filter also which could be clogged too. Easy diy job will take you an hour remove clean and refit both.
  22. Go see Chad at Motor MEC in Al Quoz and get him to recode the steering angle sensor with his PIWIS tester. Seems the 2004 model year is a pain in the *** for disconnecting battery issue after. I disconnected my battery on 2006ctt about 30times in a year and only had to drive forward a few meters and all dash lights went off. No fault codes remained.
  23. Yeah bit tricky to get a nice bead around the pipes to block orifice recess area. I think on the pipe only put small amount of Vaseline on the oring so it slides in easy and a wide bead of smeared RTV silicon behind the oring on the pipe itself. Slide the pipe in all the way and then pack the RTV into the gap between pipe and orifice. This maybe be more difficult than it seems access wise. I did think maybe the flat face inside the orifice could be smeared with RTV before inserting the pipe but not sure it that will work well or not. I remember on mine under the manifold one of the pipes had a hard resin type sealer on it, which worked but wasn't the oem type approach and would never come apart again I doubt. Head gaskets symptoms loss of coolant and overheating at idle, if you rev the engine it will cool down to normal and the cycle repeats. Was blown between cyclinder 2-3. Torque seal, yes exactly how it happens dry crusty then seal is deteriorated and leaks. Good luck.
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