lewisweller

2 hours ago, thor1974 said:

one problem fixed an other is there. the Ac stop working. I checked the cabel on the Compressor and I don't have there 12V. all Fuses in the right panel fusebox #23 and #25 are ok.

do anyone know where the relays are?

Try fs11 in the "water box"

49 minutes ago, mbagge01 said:

Lewisweller, what cord are you using to connect vcds to your cayenne. I have tried my durametric and vagcom cord and cannot access the control module. I am using the most recent vcds software on an 04 cayenne turbo.

http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/shop/vagcom-15-original-vcds

I bought this cable and downloaded the 15.7.1 version of vcds and it seems to work very well. No label files so you have to know what your looking at. 

I'm using vcds vagcom 15.7.1 on my 06 ctt. 

Have you looked at your coding to determine if your headlight is via level control or partly via headlight aim Control? You could try to recode this level control module and also have a look at the 4 corner level sensor readings to make sure they are sensible readings and recalibrate it anyway. 

If wiring/sensor is not an issue it sounds like the headlight and suspension height are not matching up and throwing a fault. 

Have you check the connections and cleaned them all with electrical cleaner spray. Seem strange you get fault after replacing something. Are these ballast oem or aftermarket? 

4 hours ago, GSpence2 said:

Morning Big. Coffee? 

It's got just under 131K miles. Not sure what let loose. The fan is spraying oil all over the place so it's hard to tell where it's coming from. I'm thinking it's one or possibly both head gaskets because the coolant definitely has oil in it, thankfully not a lot but it's in there. Some how it doesn't smell like fuel though, still smells like fresh sweet coolant so this is definitely a new thing. Odd thing is I've still got decent power delivery and gitty-up! No bangs, bucks, CEL, hard starting, only a low oil light and then the discovery. Both valve cover gaskets were already weeping and I had an appointment scheduled next week to remedy those anyway. They seem to last about 2 years because every two years at this same time I have to have them changed. I was planning on doing a full fluid and filter swap anyway. I guess now I'll plan on doing a rebuild or engine swap. Well, at least Santa has a sense of humor then

This stinks of a oil cooler failure! 

You better hope I'm right cos that is a lot cheaper than double head gaskets, ask me how I know. 

Merry Xmas. 

 Well the precat o2 sensor on bank 1 is installed, piece of cake to do infact. I was worried by the DIY I read of special tools and bending 22mm spanners. I had a sacrificial 22 mm spanner and blow torch ready but when I got underneath (wheel off and on a jack stand) I could easily put the spanner on it and with a 1/2 turn it was loose enough to hand thread it out. Burnt my arm on the cat because I'm impatient to let it cool down any longer, got Xmas prep to do as well today, great.  

So yeah easy peasy to swap on this side at least. 

Take a look at the graph of both bank 1 (new) and bank 2 existing precat wide band lamba sensors. 4 times snap throttle and they look perfect. Before the bank 1 sensor was not reaching peak milli amps at all and lagged behind the bank 2 sensor. Now they are almost a perfect mirror image trace. 

It is likely the sensor was damaged as a direct result of this banks previous blown head gasket (coolant into the combustion chamber) contamination of silicon which makes the sensor "lazy". 

Unfortunately whilst I'm faffing around with this graph and pictures I'm hearing a whine from the throttle body I think. Ahhhhhhhh ffs can anything just go right and be f***ing fixed for once pls. 

The drive home was uneventful and short, I don't know what the verdict is driving wise yet. 

Need to do some km's and see how the fuel trims adapts, if the the stutter is reduced or not and if the fuel economy is better. 

New sensors Resistance of the heater circuit is 2.9ohms measured across white and grey wire terminal 3 heater - and terminal 4 heater + respectively. 

Old sensor measured 3.7ohms. 

(Bosch LS7174, 5 wire lambda sensor)

Resistance of the heater circuit is 2.9ohms measured across white and grey wire terminal 3 and 4 respectively. 

O2 sensor fitment tomorrow I'm hoping my early Xmas present to the PIG will be received with the gratitude of stopping the stuttering. 

On 15 December 2016 at 3:35 AM, Nomorejags said:

Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum.  I have an 08 Cayenne Gts that has catalytic converters that have failed so I built and installed an o2 sensor simulator to fool the DME.  Seems as though it is working properly but after installing I started getting a p0141 and p0161 basically that there was an issue with the heater circuit.  I tested the circuit and everything seems fine so I assume it is the heater element failing.  

 

I would like to know if anyone can please share with me the correct resistance for the o2 heater circuit ( two white wires on the sensor).  Normal rules would imply that it's 8ohms and anything outside ~10% would kick a code.  I installed one new Bosch sensor and the resistance is 9.8ohms and the one I didn't replace (I'm assuming it's stock) is 9.6ohms.  I built a resistor circuit that could handle 40watts and is ~11. 5 ohms (got this fix from the lexus forum). However now I'm throwing a p0057 and p0037 for circuit low voltage. 

 

If someone could share with me the correct resistance for the heater circuit I believe I can sort this out and go pass inspection :). Thanks.

Are you looking for pre or post cat sensor resistance reading? They are different. 

I got a new Bosch oem precat sensor which I will install tomorrow on my 2006 ctt. I will measure the heat circuit ohms for you. 

FYI you bought the wrong sensor but I admire your efforts to find a work around. Kudos if you fix it and reach for the wallet if you can't. 

Third new battery installed all seems well although the other two new batteries worked well for a while! We will see what happens to this one...............

3 hours ago, thor1974 said:

will do it tomorrow. I can ready out the Engine under a 2006 Touareg but the rest is not working. the struts in the front now up after 5 miles driving but it is not adjustable.

The vcds version I have is 15.7.1

Menu chassis then click 34 "level control" 

12 hours ago, ybe said:

 

Are you sure you don't have fuses mixed up? I'm currently on 1 pump in my CS with fuse 14 pulled and can hear the right side pump running/whinning when the car is on. I think Fuse #14 is for the driver side pump and #13 is the right pass side pump, but feel free to correct me If I'm wrong USA

Sorry my bad. You are correct 14 is left pump primary, 13 is right pump secondary. 

1 hour ago, Renzo511 said:

I have icarsoft 960 reader...

 

I get a lot of voltage related codes such as the ones I listed.

 

The oil in the filler cap and as well as the filler cap is fine.

 

This picture is driver's side plugs I.pulled out and then replaced.

 

The right side of picture is the plug closest to front nose of engine.

 

Will send  passenger side next

That is some oily plugs, your either having bad piston rings or valve stems seals or more likely a pcv problem think AOS or turbo seal. This amount of oil on the plugs spells trouble. 

First thing to do is compression test and leak down check. 

And also have the coolant tested for hydrocarbons to eliminate the possibility your head gaskets is blown. Or just take the cap off when its cold and sniff it, if you smell fuel rather than a dull sweetness you may have a blown head gasket. 

I think the alternator also sounds suspect and the "new battery" could be the cover up before sale. It should remain stable voltage wise or the regulator is failing. 

I don't know if it's possible the water cooling of the alternator (if a fault inside) could cause the expansion tank to boil or overflow/leak, this is more likely a split expansion tank as many have failed over the years, well documented here if you do a search. 

8 hours ago, thor1974 said:

is a 2006 Cayenne 4.5 V8

 

it tell me always 'no response from Controller

That's weird, which version of vcds you have? I'm also 2006 ctt, I run version 15.1 I think and it picks up on nearly all modules. Try doing an auto scan from the list by selecting Touareg 2003-200? Can't remember but its there. 

It takes a while to find and scan each module. Copy the scan and post it here. 

6 hours ago, Renzo511 said:

Wizard

 

 

Coils look perfect ,no cracks or anything 

 

Plugs were pretty brown on ends, cylinders 1 and 8 were wet  (smelled like  gas)with large carbon deposits

Cylinder 6 had carbon on plug also 

Some pictures of plugs would have been good. Also get some diagnostic software my friend, your pissing in the wind right now. 

1 hour ago, thor1974 said:

That is by the Porsche not working. if I go on 34 then he starts with searching and the message comes "no response from Controler" by the other Cayenne which I have I can read out nearly everything.

I'm sorry I don't understand your reply. 

Which models and year Cayenne you have? 

15 minutes ago, Hanstuck said:

 

Oops, sorry lewis.....your original reply was dwarfed by those pics right above it and I missed it.  However, the EPS one you posted looks like it's about 40% more $$$ than the one I posted (and installed on my car)?  What's the difference?

No difference apart from you found a better price I think. 

1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

The sad point in this story: the driveshaft and flex disc was replaced by my indy last year. 

Is it under warranty then? All oem parts have 1 yr warranty. 

2 hours ago, Hanstuck said:

Save your money on the new driveshaft Ciaka.....buy this instead.  Kit includes the flex disc too.  https://www.amazon.com/Clamping-Bearing-Support-Porsche-Cayenne/dp/B0063GQP6S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482201164&sr=8-1&keywords=cayenne+cardan+shaft

 

I know this is well-documented around the net, and I have no affiliation.  Just wanted to vouch for it.  Took me 45 minutes to install when my shaft bearing went, and I have 45k trouble free miles on it since.

 

I just hate replacing a flawed design with another flawed design, when you can improve it for less $$$.

Yes this is the eps kit mentioned above, just note this kit only replaces the mount it does not replace the bearing itself! If the bearing is worn or noisy this is not the total solution.  

Eps have provided a tube of grease to repack the bearing which is prudent and in most cases this will work for many for years. 

1 hour ago, dpatel710 said:

Yup, the intake gasket was not seated correctly! On the plus side, removing and replacing the intake is straightforward for me now. 

Thanks for the tip on the throttle body. I did that a couple of months ago when I purchased the CTT. 

Looks like the leaky seal on my diff is part #16 in the diagram below. Had the same issue on the input shaft of the rear diff in my Audi. Gonna mark up this project for a later date. 

 

 

 

Result! 

Let us know how the oil stabiliser works on the diff noise pls. 

17 hours ago, thor1974 said:

the suspension was 50% working it went up and goes 1 level more up and down. the car was parking 3 weeks and the Battery was dead. I put a smaller battery in of a chevy s10 but the suspension don't raise up in the front. I have vcds where I have to go to see what is going on?

Go to chassis tab and select 34 self level suspension. 

The vcds actually gives you on screen tutorial on how to use this for calibration. 

Put in the security code as it instructs 15624 iirc and then begin the calibration sequence. 

Knowing the correct measurements is a bit difficult as vw and Porsche take the mm measurement from different places and there fore the mm you see on vcds won't relate to your thinking, so don't try to compare it just use it a number. 

What I did was measured the rear from centre hub to arch then compared to front. Cross reference that against the vcds figure and input the difference as a subtraction to the mm measurement on the front thus fooling the vcds into thinking the front is low and it will pump it up. 

Eg 

Rear 240mm

Front 215mm (but we know its incorrect because it's sagging) 

So try telling it the front is actually 195mm thus it will raise it by 20mm next time. 

Now you have 235mm. Compare front and back I think normal ride height is around 8-10cm from top of tyre to wheel arch. 

It's a bit fiddly so leave yourself a good few hours to have a play. 

If the reading you put in the test is not accepted then rock the car forward and back until it accepts the number you entered. You can even drive forward and back small amount as I did. 

If you get any error you must start again from security code input forward.  

I'm out of country so this is the best I could remember. 

If anyone else knows how to do this with vcds better pls chime in, I think my method is haphazard but was the only way I got my to level back up and it's worked fine since. 

39 minutes ago, thor1974 said:

I have a 2006 Porsche Cayenne 4.5 V8 Turbo.in the Cluster comes now the Message oil level monitoring failure and PSM Failure. I replaced the Level sensor but I still have the Message. what means PSM failure and had someone an idea how to fix it?

 

Sounds like you have a battery voltage issue maybe, I think your warnings and psm are ghost faults caused by something else hence why a new level sensor didn't fix the problem. If you haven't already got diagnostic tool aka Durametrics I suggest you invest $200-300. 

20 minutes ago, thor1974 said:

I have here a 2006 Porsche Cayenne 4.5V8. The car get new Air struts in the front and regulator Valve but the front Struts stay down. in the Cluster comes the message not permission. had someone an idea how to fix that?

You need to recalibrate the air suspension assuming everything is put back together correctly.?

You could try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins and reconnecting (go for a slow speed drive carefully avoid tight turns and bumps, the system might initialise and pump up to set heights but I doubt it).

I had the same issue after changing the top strut arm and only could get it working after recalibration using my Ross-tech vagcom vcds as the Cayenne utilises basically the same as a touareq control module. 

1 hour ago, dpatel710 said:

Those pictures are very helpful, thank you! I checked the lines and they are connected correctly. I can not see or feel any obvious leaks on the drivers side from where I hear the hissing. I have the sinking feeling that I will need to pull the manifold again. Maybe I did not get it seated correctly :/ 

 

I'll keep the thread updated about the diff. I also have some sort of diff noise but only when accelerating around 25mph. I plan on dumping a half bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer in with fresh gear oil. 

Yes Likely the manifold gasket is not seated correctly. I assume you put new green gaskets on? 

Advisable to replace the throttle body gasket o-ring as well and give the throttle body a clean and alignment after clearing codes when reassembled. 

Have you checked your AOS and 3 way check valve works properly? 

1 hour ago, dpatel710 said:

Hey All,

Doing a bunch of work on the 955 CTT and ran into a couple of snags. 

First, this was my first time pulling the intake manifold. I mixed up some of the vacuum lines at the rear of the manifold. I can hear a loud hissing noise while the engine is running but all the lines are connected. Doing the coolant T's, I disconnect the gaggle of lines and Im 99% sure that at the end of a long day, I crossed some around. Does anyone have a picture or diagram of where the hoses at the back of the intake are suppose to be? 

Second, I am also doing a coolant flush. I drained it at the plug on the bottom of the radiator and caught 1.5-2 gal of coolant. How can I drain the rest from the block? When I bought the car, it started leaking coolant and I topped it off with several gallons of distilled water before throwing in the towel and having it towed. Therefore, I would like to drain as much of the system as I can and fill it with the correct dilution. 

Last one - I have fluid leaking at the input of the front differential. I have attached a photo of it as well. What's it take to R&R this one? On my last car (Audi), the diff output flange seals were the culprit for these kinds of leaks. 

Outside of that, it was surprisingly smooth sailing. Did the coolant T's, CET replacement, torque strut, and valve cover/spark plug/cam seals. The DIY articles here are very helpful! 

Thanks for the help guys!
 

Welcome. 

Have a look at the below thread which I have loaded some pictures with notations to identify and locate the various pipe of the manifold and changeover valve (controls the divertor valves). 

Did you check the little one way check valves whilst you was in there? I mentioned which direction they work. 

Don't have any info on the diff leak but I do have a front diff bearing whine at speed around 120kph which I'm still looking for someone who stripped and replaced the bearing for some advice on feasibility of the DIY repair. If you do any work pls post info with pics thanks.