lewisweller

On 2017-7-1 at 1:35 AM, andrewjt19 said:

 

Anyone know how I can remove the air fitting from the air line? I'm installing a new air spring from Arnott and it says to remove the brass fitting from the air line so the line can be pressed into the new fitting in the new spring.

 

Below is the video from Arnott for installing the part. Refer to 2:20 on the video.

 

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

 

Does this help? 

On 2017-6-30 at 9:46 PM, JFP in PA said:

 

As long as you recognize that this is rarely a permanent fix.........

Yep i got that.  

Unless folks your stuck in the middle of nowhere without any other option (which I wasn't stuck in the middle of nowhere), use the proper bush and don't bodge it like me. 

4 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

From practical experience, you are better off replacing the bushing.  Glue and other "fixes" tend to ultimately fail.

Soon to be someone else's headache. .....

I did Fix this by installing a stainless steel washer under the nut and some super glue on the shaft between the split bush.

Tighten the nut onto the stainless steel washer and left it over night. Been working fine ever since. 

16 hours ago, rahul singh said:

Mr. lewisweller thanks for your kind reply.. I have found the problem, yes the drain was clogged, battery was in good shape. & when i did some contunity test, come to know that some of the wire (PSM control unit) were damaged..... Now I have fixed that problem.

 

Good news. If you got any pics or more details pls post as it will help others in the future. Happy motoring. 

13 minutes ago, TomBelgium said:

Hello, I have also the 1023 error and hard to start problem. How did you resolve it? 

90% it's the Hpfp.

Bank 2 rear fitted tight between the end of the cam cover and the firewall. Many failures have been seen. 

https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=33572

13 hours ago, Ryan Hough said:

I let the Dealer I bought it from know all of the Porsche dealer's findings and they agreed to replace all the affected parts! So they have all the items in and I just have to drop it off for a few days while they replace the above items! I will post a follow up once everything has been taken care of.

 

Thanks,

Ryan

Ask for the old parts. And just happen to past by around day two and have a look how they are getting on. Take pictures for future reference, I still check back on mine for help with other diy repairs and locating items. 

12 hours ago, rahul singh said:

I am having some issues related to PSM control unit, as the car i am currently working with was repaired by somebody else, they guys replaced fuel pumps, ABS hydraulic unit, Brake booster..... Initally it was a no- start problem....... I tried my best, fixed some wiring connection from fuel pump side. Than i was able to start the engine...... but when i was trying to move the gearshift lever, it was struck in park, now i checked for brake light switch, i could not find it.... Connected PIWiS tester & come to know that PSM control unit has no signal going..... It was porsche cayenne 2006, the current faults in instrument cluster are " Brake proportioning fault ", and not sensing the brake pedal....

Any idea to share, From my side i will check furthermore & will update.  

Check for broken damaged or corroded wires in the loom harness under drivers (left hand drive) foot well carpet. Is the carpet wet? 

Battery in good shape?

59 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

@ferraristyle thank you very much. I was thinking about this. Member Touareg pointet to the same direction.

 

what you mean with "plastic trim" ?

I'm sure he mean just this section which has plastic trim covering it 

Picked up the car yesterday around 1.30pm temp was reading 55oC, I couldn't even touch the steering wheel and burnt my *** on the seat leather. Started up and tried to get the ac cooling but it was pumping out hot air, hotter than the outside temp. The garage guy wasn't there and his employee said "oh thats strange they re-gassed it and it was all fine". He then asked me for money to pay the bill, which I declined, I will check the car first I told him. 

After 5 mins I gave up sitting there and went for a drive around, car felt ok but AC doesn't work at all! 

Knowing all there mechanics are not working due to Ramadan hours here I decided to just drive home, I give up with these idiots. 

Bad idea really, got stuck in Thursday afternoon traffic and had 50oC sauna for 1 hr until I turned of the traffic jam and headed to another fuel station garage. They checked the AC and confirmed my hunch there is no Gas at all inside. They vacuumed and found no leaks. They tried to fill the gas again but the refrigerant won't go inside. He said either the Schrader valve is faulty or the low pressure side piping is blocked. I noticed the low pressure schrader cap is missing when it was there before these other garage monkeys worked on the car and also there is a flat head screw driver wedge indent in the schrader Rubber valve. Can't see it on the picture though. 

So I then proceeded to drive another 50 mins without AC to my house. 

Oh and the bonnet strut is broke and the locking Wheel nut adaptor missing still. 

So they aren't getting paid. I will fix everything and just send the pictures of the repair bills to the guy with a big F**k you. 

I haven't confirmed that their claim there is no oil leaks from the bell housing/transmission area is true. It will be just my luck I find its still leaking. 

I'm going to uk tonight so all this mess will have to wait until mid July. I may order some stuff from uk whilst I'm there as it cheaper. 

I just want to get it all working properly and sell it. I don't even need a second car now. Sob Sob. 

8 hours ago, Ryan Hough said:

I certainly will! I am waiting to hear back from the Service manager to schedule an appt.

 

In the mean time I checked the Voltage of the Battery via the iCarSoft POR II and when it's Cranked no load it reads 13.3-13.5v With all items on, 13.0. with the engine off and sitting for a bit it's hovering right at 12. 

 

I'm not sure if anyone is familiar with the iCarSoft but when I am doing a real time diagnostics with it, and I'm in the settings for the"Ignition counter misfire detection", I am getting a steady stream of a fast moving counter to around 5000 and it resets to zero. I am not getting any reports of a misfire on any cylinders so I am not sure what this read is. Does anyone have any experience with this?

 

Here is a link to that video.

 

 

That's ignition cycles not misfires. Error in the description on software. 

If it was misfires the car wouldn't be able to run like that. 

24 minutes ago, Ryan Hough said:

Thanks for all the info guys! 

Lewis, In the video, I am moving the steering wheel back and forth and you should be able to hear the noise change pitch as I do it.

 

I decided to take it directly to the Porsche dealership and have them do a once over on it and take that report back to them. I want everything sorted out before I start making payments on it..

 

Thanks again!

Ryan

Smart. Learn from our wallets. Empty wallets lol

15 hours ago, Ryan Hough said:

Hi Everyone! Long time Lurker and final a first time Porsche owner! I just got a new to me 2008 CCT with 56K miles on it.  I really like it but I am already having several issues with it. The good news is, the dealership I got it from is including a 60 day 3K mile 100% warranty on all parts and repairs.

One of the several issues I am having is it sounds like the power steering pump is going and it makes a loud whining noise and they are saying it's normal. The ps fluid level is normal, but it is a very distinct noise that I can hear from a distance away. I would really appreciate if you could help me decipher this noise. Here is a video of the noise.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQXRPl6TJbk&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share

 

Other problems are: Needs a new driveshaft. Needs the thermostat replaced. It keeps throwing a 1117 Load Signal Generator Terminal DF. Battery is reading 13.4 max with no load running and drops to 13.0 with lights etc. on. They insist it's good.  Brakes won't stop squealing after replacing pads and they had to replace they front left Accelerometer because of the air lift system error. WHEW! I still thinks it's going to be an awesome vehicle.

I go back this week to drop it off for 2 days for all those repairs but I want to make sure I get everything that is obvious. Also since they will have the intake manifold off, I was thinking I should replace the Plastic T connectors for the coolant lines. Is there anything else I should deal with while they have it all apart? Ignition coil packs?

 

Thanks for any help guys.
Sincerely,
Ryan
 

Hard to hear that humming. If you turn the steering it should change the humming pitch even just a little, this will verify the power steering pump or not  Just note the water pump and alternator can hum and whine a bit, also the cayenne has a habit of being a bit whiney. I think something to do resonance of pulleys belts etc. 

13 volts is a sure sign that something is going to go wrong soon with alternator or battery is weak. What's the voltage with engine off? Less than 12.6v is on the way to undercharged. But above 12.4 is acceptable it seems for most of in aged cayenne. It may be the battery is weak as a result of a failing alternator! 

Pads need Cooper grease or they squeak and squeal like a pig (no pun intended). The "ceramic or high performance" type pads are super noisey I'm told. I still have squeaks using oem vw touareg pads which are in fact made by Brembo, I need to clean and grease them every 10k km. Same for rear brakes. 

Don't think getting to the coolant Tees is that easy even with manifold off. I would advise you ask them to scrutinise every and all vac, pcv breather pipes they may encounter because it's a real pain to go back in there again.

Coil packs aren't exactly cheap for 8nos, but if you got cash to splash and no record of service replacement previously then go for coils and plugs, at least you won't be one of the many cayenne misfire sufferers. 

Moreover if that noise turns out to be something major like bottom end, scored bores or timing chain/top end failure then your in for a big kick in the crutch. Tread carefully my friend. ......you do have the opportunity to act now with the sale warranty. 

Just had a brain wave. 

I think the weird vibration and noise was because the suspension was not functioning properly and front collapsed. I've read the cayenne can be susceptible to this as the driveline is not aligned when suspension ride height is not within normal spec. This may also explain why after I managed to get it somewhat levelled with the vagcom today before the test drive it was seemingly better.

Still need to sort out the left front sensor electrical circuit fault code so the suspension will work properly. 

Any ideas why the rear suspension creaks when going from normal to low or up to terrain? It was pretty silent before. Maybe a bit of silicon spray needed on the bushes. 

2 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

@Lewis thank you. Possible to hear if it's working?

 

 

Maybe, if the car is very hot and had hard drive then you quickly pull up and switch off the engine in a quiet area you may be able to hear the pump running. Put you ear against the front drivers wing any humming or noise is for sure the pump running. 

If the DME doesn't think the car is hot and been pushed hard it won't run the pump. So you need to drive it hard when already at normal temp and then pull over quickly and switch off immediately. 

31 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

The electricel circulation water pump is running all the time?! This could be my problem too. Somebody know where this part is sitting? On the diagram cant see well. I read somewhere behind the weel housing?!

The pump is located behind the drivers side front wheel arc liner. 

9 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

Nightmare is right...keep at it though; every bit they fix will be less for you to do yourself in the long run. Hope its resolved before you leave.

Went there today, the air suspension wouldn't calibrate, took me ages to get it to validate all four corners, because there was a electrical fault code for the left front. I told them to find the fault likely a cable they forgot to connect back properly. 

Went for a drive and it felt better got up to 100-110 briefly in the small roads there and it much better. AC gassed more so manageable now, was never great anyway in summer. 

Still not happy with the suspension it Smashing something, I asked them to recheck everything again. 

I didn't notice any noise or vibration from the rear wheels or bearings so that was hog wash. 

They didn't actually tell me what they found and fixed which leads me to believe something silly was forgotten like loose bolts on a driveshaft or something and they rectified it, but they was leaving me to think I imagined the whole issue. 

Spotted a leak of fuel on the fuel rail Schrader valve which wasn't seated closed. They screw driver pulsed it open and fuel sprayed out obviously but it did reseal and stop dripping. 

Still they can't find my lost locking Wheel nut socket! 

Nightmare indeed. 

Update, the guy messaged me this morning to ask me to come tonight. 

I asked what is the problem. He said no leaks and no vibration at all, he said the noise is from the rear tires/wheel bearing! 

I'm thinking how? If they found nothing then they Fix nothing and for sure the rear is not the issue. I'm starting to lose my patients, I've asked to keep the car on the lift so I can do some visual checks myself then we will go for test drive and I'll see if this vibration is gone or not. 

He doesnt mention the other items, like the AC Gas underfilled, the indicator light loose connection and missing locking Wheel nut socket tool! I'm off to uk next week and can't be doing with this crap still ongoing. What a nightmare. 

8 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Whats going on here:

 

 

Wow! 

Whats you battery voltage like? 

Also I would be checking for broken wires of the engine loom which run from the DME to pretty much all the items of the fault code. 

Clear the codes and recheck straight away with engine running. If the codes immediately pop back up then wiring is my guess. If the codes come back after a while of driving then very strange low voltage, DME or accumulation of errors. All very strange but as we know with the cayenne even a few corroded wires in the foot well under the carpet can cause a load of warnings, lift up the carpet and see if any wires are damaged or wet, take pictures. 

2 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

@Lewis did you visit your friends in the shop? Car in parts? 

Didn't have time today, but sent a message to the guy, he said the front right suspension strut is leaking. I said that wasnt the cause of the many other issues but no reply. 

Will drop in there tomorrow after picking up the boy from school. 

46 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

 

 

So you killed already somebody or everything is going go be fine?

No news since dropping off, so I'm guessing they are knee deep in sh*t and trying to fix all the cock ups. I will drop in there on Saturday and surprise them, maybe the car will be in pieces again with engine on the floor. 

I almost wish they would torch it and I can claim the insurance. 

1 hour ago, bobinyelm said:

I started this "project" with about a dozen DTCs that plagued my new-to-me '04 Cayenne (that has turned out to actually be a 2003 according to the build date).

 

I replaced an after-cat O2 sensor to try to cure a "Cat Low Efficiency" DTC (P0431), so I will assume on that one is a genuinely tired Cat at 136k miles.

 

The other codes have all disappeared with a new Group 95 Battery,/H9 (vs the Group 49/H8 the last owner installed and which was at only around 11v ignition ON and not running) except for a level sensor I am awaiting a replacement I ordered.

 

The LAST "BIGGIES" are DTCs for the Transfer Case, DTCs for "Power Supply" and "Grounds" for Transfer Box Servo Motor DTCs 2040 and 2041.

 

I pulled ALL fuses and checked for corrosion and put them back, and checked for voltage at BOTH sides of every fuse. No problems. All wiring harnesses look great-no signs of physical damage or corrosion anywhere

 

I surrender...

 

Anyone offer a FINAL Hail Mary before going to the Porsche Dealer where they have a Test Box for the transfer system?

Yeah get under the passenger seat and whip out the control module. (You will find the transmission and TC module under there in a plastic cassette type case thing. Check part number of each and that will tell you which one is the TC, part number 0AD927755AB or similar IIRC, can't remember what the differences was in appearance though. 

Check the plug and harness for damages ( the harness can get trapped in the seat mechanism!) and then crack the control module open and check the board for fried components, bulging capacitors or anything obvious. Take pictures!!! Post them!!!  Don't be scared off by scaremongering people that say "oh you can't open them little black boxes of witch craft, the world will end". Ha ha 

Read the pdf attached for testing for faults codes 2040 and 2041, it looks as though the consensus is if not for a wiring issue/fuse blown, then either the servo motor or the control module is faulty.

Used control modules on Ebay are cheap as chips like £30 and they don't need to be programmed to your car it is plug and play as long as you buy another module with the same part number of the same manufacture year etc so I've been reliably informed and read. 

After that throw hands up in the air and reach for the wallet. 

TRANSFER BOX.pdf

15 hours ago, AGarcia03 said:

06 Porsche Cayenne V6 3.2

 

Hello Im having voltage drop and from my test looks like the alternator isn't doing its job. Its a hitachi alternator water cooled was wondering if the regulator can be changed on these or not. I was also wondering if you could possible pull of the back of the alternator without taking off the pulleys and taking out the alternator. There is some access back there but not much,didn't know if it was possible. would anything else cause the voltage to drop and stall on a idle? i have a brand new battery and was doing voltage drop before the new one its acting better then before but still has the drop and now stalls from time to time at a idle stance. 
 

From my experience on the 06 v8 ctt the Hitachi and other brands seen on the cayenne all have the regulator soldered in and they are also hard to find and buy.

Also from my own opinion and experience with the alternator it is not wise to try and save money on a repair, as it's labour intensive to replace this doesn't make sense not to just replace with a genuine Hitachi new unit and have that peace of mind. Found mine via eBay seller, be careful it is not REMAN (remanufactured) or another brand they are total junk. Cost me £595.  

I did mine twice and never want to do it again total nightmare job. 

1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

@Lewis thankx a lot Lewis.

i will see what the tester will show. 

- according your info the fan is starting at 89 degrees at stage one

- at which event the fan is running on stage 2

i understand when i shut down a really hot engine the fan has to run for some time after. Every car is doing this i guess. 

mine i never hear running when engine off

I think the fan speed is infinitely variable and increases and decreases according to the Ecu command. I also don't think mine runs after engine is off, but there is a water circulation pump mounted in the driver side front wheel arc area which circulates coolant around for a short time after engine of and also is the pump that gives the climate control system heat for a short period after engine is off keeping passengers remaining inside the car warm. 

5 hours ago, TyS said:

I just finished installing a factory tow package on my 2009 Cayenne.  When I hook up to a trailer and test, everything works except for brake lights.  I checked for power at pins 3&9 on the 7-pin and only have power present there with blinker and not brakes.  I've check all fuses related to the tow package (1,3,5,19,&41) and all are good.  I tested the trailer on another vehicle and the brake lights work.  Since I don't have power to those pins, the issue has to be with the Cayenne.  Do I need to have the computer flashed if I am not using electric brakes?  The trailer I will be hooking up to has surge brakes, so I didn't think I needed to visit the dealer.

Any assist would be greatly appreciated!!!

Not sure if it makes a difference, but when I purchased this car, it had a Curt hitch with a flat blade connector in the back compartment.  I didn't trace out and remove this wiring, only the hitch.

Thanks

-Ty

The cayenne was renowned for having a faulty rear comfort control module which would not work properly with factory Tow package. Problem resolved by replacement and coding of new module which is by PIWIS unfortunately, note even the dealers sometimes could not get the pesky thing to work properly. Good luck. 

https://www.etrailer.com/question-165474.html

This thread was very interesting and also if you see they had issue with brake lights not working and bought a kit from Porsche to fix it!