lewisweller

9 hours ago, MarkPlu said:

We have a 2005 Cayenne, about a month ago the 4 wheel drive faulty light came on.  Now the last two days while driving when going around a corner or a light acceleration 3 times have heard a real hard knock sounds like coming from under the passenger seat.  let off the throttle and it goes away.  not sure what to think but i am pretty sure is in the transfer care. any experience or suggestions? is there a way can fix it myself or do have to take to shop?

Check the cardan shaft Centre bearing first and the flex disc, then start looking at other possibilities like the transfer case. 

The warning normally relates to a electronic fault inside the stepper motor and or the control module in earlier models, as opposed to a mechanical issue with the TC itself. 

On 2017-5-23 at 11:35 PM, ma77hewsu11ivan said:

Lewis regarding the taillight, did you remove EVERY connection under the spoiler, clean with abrasive and reseat/reconnect including the earths? That finally did the trick for me...


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Was a bit of a rush job, can you give me some more details of how many connectors you found and cleaned. 

I removed two metal dog leg shaped flat plates and the screws and the earth cable connected to each.

Appreciated. Thank 

Car finished and according to the guys everything is OK. I haven't had time to go check. It's being collected tomorrow am and going for washing, polishing inside and out and ready for pickup Wednesday if I can get time to get there. 

It will be straight online for sale, I just wish I could fix the tail light warning crap! 

Also rear camera stuck still will have to pull that open and free it up some. And take the injectors out friday and do the professional cleaning on Saturday. Then it's bye bye

On 2017-5-20 at 5:31 AM, Mr. Haney said:

Could you post the part #'s for the seal and o ring please?

 

No part numbers. 

The NBR hydraulic seal size 8mm x 38mm and the NBR oring I dont remember the diameter but 2.6-3mm was the thickness I think.

For sure if you whip them out you can find a match at a nearby hydraulic/mechanical seal type shop. 

Top tip don't go for a thicker 3-4mm oring by thinking it will be better, the end seal plug won't fit back inside properly and the circlip won't sit in the groove either. When you start the engine and move the steering the end seal plug will push out and ***** fluid out everywhere. Ask me how I know? 

All good advice but not spending a dollar more than I have to. 

It took the guys about 3 days to drop and split. 

I dropped off the TC seal and crank shaft seal just last night and went back today 8pm and the engine is in and running. 

They will fill up the fluids I dropped off, atf, power steering and coolant. Also top strut mounts and wishbone top arm. 

This picture might help. 

I have 4 zone AC so two pipe at least go to rear heat exchanger. 

3 hours ago, Mr. Haney said:

Well, My 04 turbo was manufactured in 3/04. I do have the needle bearing front pump. I picked up my Cayenne 1 owner with 65k. As far as I know from the service history and working on it the trans has never been replaced. It was always serviced where it was purchased by the original owner. I include a couple of pics here of the new seal sent to me ending in 4302. It has the same id, od, and direction of rotation as the original one I took out. For all purposes it is the same seal with the adittion of a full rubber casing compared to the originals brassy colored outer metal shell. Though, on the new one ending in 4302 you can see the brassy colored casing through the holes in the rubber. Maybe 4302 is just vthe latest revision to the part ending in 4300. But I do see the mention of a bushing and needle bearing versiion in the parts listing. 

 

Did you say you have the bushed style front pump Lewis? I think my original is what you are descri ing you have. 

Yep brass outer seal ring is for BUSH version like I have and you have. Ending 300.

The other needle shaft version type seal ending 302 is NOT a revision old or new I did ask the Porsche part guy to clarify, they are simply different parts for different types fitted component. I reckon the 302 was fitted in the later module production line when they realised the 300 was going to leak in the future maybe?

Some more pictures attached, this is the 302 seal and also some rather depressing images of my cars guts laying on the floor again. 

7 minutes ago, ferri said:

I have soldered a small cable inside the obd2 plug from pin 3 to pin 7 so they are shorted (I have vag-com too). Believe me, it's much better than durametric, more logical to use.

I'm using Ross tech vcds also on my 06 ctt. I had No need to jump pins though as it read most common modules already on mine. I think as Mike zawowsky will testify the older cayenne was not so vagcom friendly. 

The main problem is no label files to describe what data your viewing. 

4 hours ago, alx5 said:

I am looking for another SUV that fun to drive, engaging, and responsive like my 955 Cayenne Turbo.  I would like to know is there other option to choose beside X5M/X6M, RR supercharge and ML63 AMG or Audi SQ5. I know I can get another CTT but want to see if there is something else I can enjoy.  
thanks for the suggestion. 

ALX5

My personal choice if size would permit, take a low mileage (with extended 5 yrs warranty and 60,000mile service package) 12-24month old Q5 s-line v6 3.0T supercharged. It by far the best price out of the lot and leaves loads of cash to............

Take it to your local Revo dealer and have the supercharger pulley upgrade and Ecu flash. Huge torque gains and bhp, makes the engine a real train and lovely drive ability in any gear any speed it will pull hard smooth and clean. 

I maybe a little bias because it the same as my S4 modification and also if you like the supercharger whine then get a cold air intake too and for more sound and power do the X pipe exhaust mod. ***** rings round the others except maybe the X5M and X6M, the are beastly but cost the earth. 

If I buy another relatively expensive car it will be the Q5. 

So it turns out Porsche are correct (why doubt them I hear some say) of the the two types one is a usual looking NBR seal and one has a brass band integrated around the seal which sits on the transmission case input shaft aperture I think I'm right in saying. Ending part number 302 "needle bearing version" was in fact the other type Mr. Haney, the one that fits my car is as attached and ends in 300 and is the "bush version"

The garage confirmed the damage to the seal wasnt due to them prying it out! So something happened in there to rip a chunk out and mess up the seal proper style. 

20 minutes ago, Mr. Haney said:

 95532124302 is the correct part for your turbo v8. The v6, v8, and v8 turbo all use the same torque converter with a different stall speed for each.  All three use the same tiptronic transmission with different number of clutch pack plates and frictions based on model with the turbo having the most. The v6 tipronic uses a bushed front pump where the the converter slides in while the s and turbo use a needle bearing. 

Thanks for replying, It seems from your detailed information there should be no discrepancy over the seal, so I'm wondering why Porsche have two types they say could be fitted? Could it be one of those factory line moments where mid production they switch the seal on the fly (for what ever reason supplier change, defective seal design revised or associated component changes) and its anybodies guess which one is fitted. 

Will find out later hopefully and compare both they say they have. 

Chunk missing, makes more sense they damaged it prying out yes. 

I'm going to remove the injectors when I go to get the seal today and send them to the other garage for ultrasonic cleaning. 

The new owner is not going to know the 14month battle and cost it's taken to get this car back to decent shape mechanically. 

Oh and I still can't fix this pesky check tail light warning. I looked at the third break light and the grounds under that rear hatch spoiler. Nothing found, Cleaned earth's and check plugs were all clicked tight. Where else can be the problem other than the rear comfort control unit? It's really annoying. When the lights are on, Press the break pedal and boom "check tail lights" pops up. It's voltage related I'm sure, when everything is off loads wise, and I've been on a drive (battery is fully topped up) it won't do it. Drop to idle and switch on a few things it will pop everytime. I can even make it do it between fan speed 3 or 4 make the difference to pop the warning or not pop. 

The engine with transmission is out and split. Here is the seal with a very obvious chunk out of it, hence the rather large leak. 

They say there is a difference in the seal type dependant on the shaft, I have to say I don't know what to compare it to, so will take the old one to Porsche tomorrow and get the right one. 

29 minutes ago, ricurt said:

Pulling the # 14 then the #13 fuses results in the same outcome...cranking and a couple second start then stop. Any recommendations on a decent fuel pressure tester that has the correct adapters? The one at Harbor freight has some bad reviews and the local parts stores have testers for domestic fuel systems.Might be the regulator or a clogged filter (have no idea how long the fuel has been in the tank) this came about suddenly.??

Erm I spent ages trying to get a decent testing kit and never actually got one or the right parts to make one. Larger than standard Schrader valve is the pita. 

Both pumps same result leaves a common fault which could be regulator of filter blockage. 

Could it be bad fuel? 

Go get it test somewhere don't buy parts on a whim. I wasted a lot of money like this chasing lean bad running. Turns out it is blocked injectors and nothing to do with pumps regulator or filter. I justify the cost against reliability and periodic servicing. Who am I kidding could have save the money for all the other break downs of this wonderful motor. 

12 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Looks awesome; I can’t see how it didn’t sell right away. The new front end really changes the look. I still find the description of the 2004 as a 911 crossed with a roller skate amusing. Are those stock rims? 20” or 22”? They look just like mine except in silver, but I thought mine were aftermarket...

Didn't sell because the traders here buying from the auction are retards. They went all crazy bidding for a 2010 suburban truck with 678,000km on it and loads of bad stuff noted on the test sheet but anything older than 2009 they are not interested in at all. And face-lift or e81 power kit options are like trying to explain algebra to a young chimp. 

Yeah I like the face-lift look, tbh the older cayenne are not the prettiest Porsche car ever designed by their crack team of boffins. 

The wheels are 20" and I believe they are genuine Porsche..... Has the porsche badge in the middle so that was enough proof for me .....hehe

2 hours ago, 09CayennePepper said:

Like Lewis said it can be any number of factors, there are 5 to start with, 2 in-tank fuel pumps, fuel regulator and filter (in tank as well) or the high pressure fuel pump. First thing is the 2 pumps in the tank. Have them tested to make sure fuel is getting to the HP pump at the pressure and flow required.

Won't be the hpfp lol he's got an 04.

2 hours ago, 09CayennePepper said:

Finally the saga is over. Replaced the HP pump and all is good. Except the starter was going, service said the amp draw was high. I knew it was harder and harder to start and figured that it needed to be replaced soon anyway. So.... pull the intake and fuel rail and replaced the starter and now she starts right up. After almost a year of fighting with it it is finally over, updated tags and running good. Next up trans service and new plugs.

Nice feeling I bet! 

12 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

That sucks. But if my conversion factors are correct still less than here. Got my first quote for the job at 1300$ CAN, which is like a grand US. But by the sound of it they don’t have much experience (or special tools) for the Cayenne so will keep shopping. But my quote is transmission out only. Would be nice to get at the turbos and do some work on the wastegates. My transmission leak is holding at 5 mls per day. But it’s running pretty good though, and I even waxed it for a change of pace. Sounds odd but I had no idea how loud the aftermarket exhaust is; I’ve owned it mainly in the winter so with the windows closed you don’t hear much. Now that spring is finally starting here I opened it up next to a wall and man does it speak up! I don't think I have seen a picture of your entire vehicle Lewis, you should post one after the paint is done.

Here she is. With 2008 face-lift looking rather modern. 

10 hours ago, Chris Gimpel said:

Sounds like the high pressure fuel pump. I have had mine replaced twice on my 2008 Cayenne S. Was there any hesitation or other indication of it failing? The other alternative is that your remote is not working and the immobilizer has activated.


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The high pressure fuel pump came in on the 2007/8 model cayenne v8 so the OP Ricurt will be looking at the delivery from the two pumps inside his tank and the filter and regulator function. 

If you pull out fuse 14 cycle the key off on, will it run? Then try with fuse 13 removed cycle key off on will it run? 

Any codes?  

59 minutes ago, ricurt said:

I have a recent purchase of a 04 Cayenne S. with 81k That needs some TLC that I'm giving it. When I got the car it started right up and ran pretty well. Installed a new battery and went on a few test hops etc and took care of some other issues. Today I went to start it and it just cranked and cranked then started for about 5 seconds and cut off. I've tried it numerous times while pulling fuses etc with the same result. Does this sound like a fuel pump / filter/ regulator issue? I have no idea of the past maint, on the truck. Any ideas?  Thanks!

Sounds fuel related, but learn from my mistakes and others, get it tested before buying parts. 

4 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

i always believed there must be an air pocket which is causing my high temp but many of you point me to the thermostat. 

looking at the parts diagrams I can find two numbers.  

What's the difference? Can somebody help please. 

Second question, where is sitting the temperature sensor ? Can't find it.

Thank you.

 

Temperature sensor is at the back of the engine very hard to see and access, this is not your problem Thomas. 

The thermostat is a superseded part and ends with 72 not 70 the old part. 

Your temperature reading is worrying me, head gaskets failure will follow extended localised overheating of the cylinder heads especially the inner cylinders. 2/3 6/7

Well I went to the garage this evening after getting a call from the guy who runs it (from Cali USA) there initial quote was how should we say "off the cuff" and now they want to drop the engine, trans and subframe unit and then split. 

I understand why and so many do it rather than wrestle with it in position. 

So now what was 1000dhs plus parts from me, is 3000dhs! Weep weep......

The only bonus from this is that I'm getting him to install the remaining new top wishbone arm and strut bushes whilst he's got the lump on the floor. Saves me a job late. Smiles. 

I'm also thinking to fix the rear turbo vent pipes leaky oily mess, but not wanting to buy them pipes which will be another 1000dhs. 

3 hours ago, Kira Langolf said:

Thanks for your response!   Yes, the dummy key works.

 

Is there a guide to show how to get to the module?

 

PS I still have no idea why touching the tailgate handle enables the fob to function.

This sounds like the antenna are weak but must still work because otherwise the rear hatch won't open. 

Due to the low cost I would go ahead and replace the mosfets and melt resistors making sure the sink soldering is spot on. I reckon this will fix all your problems. If not then it may be an issue with the key and something between the rear comfort control module and the kessy is wrong. Check clarksongli DIY link

19 minutes ago, Kira Langolf said:

I'm wondering if the solution discussed in this thread will solve my KESSY problem: 99.9% of the time, unlocking the doors with the fob doesn't work, yes I've changed the battery! However, if I lift on the rear hatch entry handle (hope that makes sens) and THEN press the fob, it unlocks. I feel like I have to grab my cayenne's *** just to get the remote to work, LOL!

 

The door touch unlocking system hasn't worked in years. Was repaired at dealer while under extended warranty but failed shortly after (and after warranty expired). I miss this feature :( and have been searching for a solution.  I can't seem to find any similar symptoms and this thread seems to be close.  I'm thinking this repair would be a good place to start? Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated!

 

PS-Thank you to all of you that contribute on this forum! Thanks to this forum, I've been able to repair and replace parts myself and save a ton. Some repairs I have documented and put on Youtube (https://youtu.be/txTxRET7vew) mostly for myself to remember what I did, but also it may help someone else! 

 

Does the dummy key work? If not then I suspect the mosfets and or the MELT resistors are blown. Also even if the mosfet sink soldering to the pcb is poorly done or weakened the antennas work badly or not at all. 

6 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks guys...yeah, it was like one of those, I should just put a **** hose in there which became, well maybe that is not a bad idea. The leak is holding at 4-5 mls per day, and seems not to change with how much or how hard I drive, so much less than yours Lewis, which I guess is torn rather than damaged. I have a friend in town with the same vehicle, same problem, and we are shopping around for an indy to do the work at a reasonable price. But in the mean time I can keep driving it with no mess and monitor if things go south fast. For all I know it could have been leaking since I bought it, and this just lead to the large build up under the protection panel that soaked the pan, and I only saw it when it extended to the frame rails on either side.

 

Hope the injector cleaning solves the hesitation problem, and who knows, maybe you will want to hang on to a freshly painted, smooth running non-leaking Cayenne after all this is done!

That's the danger, I might want to keep it. 

Then the wife will be moaning if it breaks again and we missed the opportunity to sell it, especially as cash is tight. 

1 hour ago, Brainz006 said:

Ok, since the CTT didn't sell and you're fixing the trans leak, I want to run another idea by you on the stuttering: Could it be the MAP (not MAF) sensor on top of the intake Y pipe?

Here's my theory: Everyone knows how sensitive the CTT is to vacuum and boost leaks - could it be that the MAP readings (and related ECM programming) are partly to blame? What if the ECM is programmed to incorporate manifold vacuum/boost readings into fueling and transmission shift modes (including Torque converter lockup and shift timing)? That could explain why we get weird shift issues and even a transmission limp mode error if there's a big enough vacuum/boost leak [Ever tried driving with a disconnected boost hose? Transmission goes into limp mode].

So what would happen is the MAP sensor didn't accurately measure the intake pressure? Honestly, I don't know, but doesn't seem like it would help.

So I did a baseline test for you, and the results were somewhat interesting. With my MAP unplugged, my engine runs at a much lower boost/power level. The engine/power was actually really smooth, but weak relative to the normal CTTS tune I'm used to. It does feel like it's boosting a bit, but as the MAP is unplugged, the gauge reads zero so I can't say for sure.

The transmission gave some weird, jerky shifts at low speed - - not horrible, but not quite right. And eventually the CEL came on - - I think it took 2 or 3 driving cycles.

I cleaned the MAP with some MAF cleaner (both the contacts and the sensor part) and plugged it back in. The CEL went out in a couple/three drive cycles and everything was back to normal (or maybe even slightly smoother, but that may be a placebo effect).

Seems like an easy, albeit potentially inconclusive test for you. In your case I'd want to see if the stuttering happened as the car got fully warmed up. If the stuttering goes away (which would be amazing), you may want to try replacing your MAP sensor.

That's my thought for the week. Hope that helps.

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Great theory and I did try this a few times with the same results! 

It smoothes out the power and reduces it with little to no boost it feels. But the key is the hesitation doesn't disappear it's only reduced and this is because the boost is much less in this limp type no boost mode with MAP sensor disconnected. 

This was actually many months ago I experimented with the map sensor. But the conclusion I have is the boost kicking in obviously requires more fuel and that is exactly the point where the lack of fuel delivery from partly blocked injectors with poor spray pattern really show themselves as the stutter hesitation. We will be finding out in a week or two when I get them cleaned. I'm actually alittle bit glad the car didn't sell just so I can close this out in my mind as well as to why the engine hesitates.