lewisweller

12 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Sorry it didn’t sell Lewis, but $400 in labor, wow, I’m looking at 2 grand here! So as a true Poorsche owner, check out my short term solution. I basically catheterized the bell housing; I put a nylon hose fitting into the hole where the ATF leaks from, ran that into a clear tube with a sealed end. The goal was to separate how much was leaking from the gasket still and how much (and how fast) it was coming out the torque converter seal.

 

 

The line tucks up inside the cross member when I am driving. After a few days I can see now that all the ATF is coming entirely from the seal, and I am losing about 5 mls per day. That gives me about 3-4 months before the transmission starts acting up I figure.

 

 

Ironically the system actually works pretty well, no more mess or drips. So now all I have to do is slap a 0.2 micron filter on the line, tap a port into the transmission and recirculate the ATF, problem solved! Just kidding...kind of!

 

 

Catheterized......lol classic, had me laughing in the car earlier when I read it. 

When mine first leaked it was on the warehouse floor and left a decent puddle. I then pulled of the covers and restarted the engine and it ran/drip fast. Your leak is a lot slower than mine. 

Just be careful it might speed up at some point. 

I will get some pictures of the seal when I get it out and see where it leaks and how exactly. 

Just got message the paint work is done and the car on the way to the garage to start the transmission removal on Saturday. 

On 2017-5-9 at 8:20 AM, ciaka said:

Just to revisit and close on this topic, I found it too hard to replace upper control arms without removing the shock.  If you look at one of my DIYs for this, you will see in pics that the two bolts holding the upper control arm to the shock, are in such proximity to the body of the car inside wheel well, that it would be too hard to access these bolts to remove.  I had to remove the shock which was not difficult at all.

 

As to the squeaking and clunking noises from the shock, my fix was:

- replacing upper control mount with new one (bushings new

- removing shock and replacing the upper shock bushing (inside the shock).

The squeaking and clunking was coming from these components (clunking likely from upper shock mount, squeaking from old bushings in upper control mount).

Once these were replaced, ride became less jarring (much smoother), and noises were no longer observed.

Case closed.

Yep these two mounts left and right for the front struts is on my list to do before sell, I already have the parts. Also new top arm of left side (right side is done already a while ago). 

With worn mounts the suspension is crashing and over humps and pot holes it creaks and crack with a not too nice knock for good measure on harsh speed humps. 

12 hours ago, Doug_B_928 said:

Update:  All 8 injectors have been replaced.  I've put over 300 kms on the car and it is idling perfectly.  So, it would appear at this point that the injectors were, indeed, the issue.... time will tell for sure, but so far so god :).

Well that's great news!

I will be having mine ultrasonically cleaned as now the plan to sell off quick has changed and fixing up to top condition is the way I'm going to demand top dollar in a private sale bitting the bullet on more costs. 

I expect I will make the car perfect and sell it to someone who really gets a great car with no issues. But hey live and learn 

On 2017-5-9 at 10:43 AM, Zakowsky said:

Yeah, I can hear that, lol! While my Cayenne was down I was driving the family around in the 944; it was a lot of fun actually, and reminded me why I started liking Porsche in the first place. So easy to work on, and the engineers used to go out of their way to make it that way. Even with a quarter of a million miles on it, the 944 always gets us there. Too bad Porsche changed so much, but what hasn’t in 30 years. Good luck at the auction.

 

As for my transmission saga, it still continues; I am getting a few drops per day from the pan gasket still. Not sure if it is under torqued or over torqued. I can’t believe anything is as low as 7.5 ft-lbs, but I tightened them up a bit more and the drips got bigger. It is strange, because sometimes I see some drops from the torque converter seal bolt hole, sometimes I don’t. And sometimes it is wet with ATF in front of the bolt holes as well. Haven’t figured out the relationship to engine speed yet. If it is only a few drops per day I might hold off on the seal replacement. Just fill it back up when the shifting gets bad!

 

Hope you keep lurking here after your Cayenne is gone Lewis!

 

Cayenne didn't sell! The auction was a flop and only newer model cars was selling to a small audience of buyers. 

So I have arrange a friend of a friend garage to do the work labour about 400 dollar and I will supply the torque convertor seal and also rear engine crankshaft seal. I already have some Toyota type iv atf fluid to top up and no need to drop pan and do filter as it was new last year. 

Also having some paint work done right now to make the car ready to sell privately. 

11 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

Sad to hear it is going up for sale, but on the other hand sometimes it is for the best. As may be the case with mine. I will see how it presents over the next few days. Curious though, are you going to buy another one?

Not a chance lol. 

Don't get me wrong, if you want a 4x4 that's not a total snail it's pretty good. But if like a lot of owners you get hit with a series of expensive repairs and your wallet isn't efficiently growing your money on trees, you will soon become slightly bitter and twisted about it. 

My personal situation has changed a lot just recently and I only need one car and my Audi is my baby and will never be sold. The porsche was the mistress and a bad b * tch at that in many ways. 

So as not to leave this long thread open (that is the most annoying thread ending ever Init?) 

I have sent the car to auction due to convertor seal leak and never got to do the injector professional cleaning, I'm sure it is the real reason for the lean hesitation but I guess I will never know now for sure. Bye bye cayenne it's been an expensive ride ..........

9 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

To end this story (and I guess I will be beginning a new one, maybe...), I wound up using a new VW gasket; I bought one and compared it to my old one and the ridges on the transmission side were noticeably thicker in the new one, and so I just put the new one on to have no worries. The gasket doesn’t leak and is all good with the pan.

 

But some things to note:

 

- after measuring properly, I drained out about 5 liters of ATF, but only about 6.2 went back in. Vehicle was level, temperature correct and all that. So I must not have drained close to it all, even though it sat with the pan off for a day. So it wasn’t as low as I thought. Used Mobil 3309 btw.

 

- transmission shifts fine again, no starting in 1st with PCM on, 2-3 shift up and all others fine. No 5-4 jolt, but that only happened occasionally and I haven’t driven it too much yet. But overall the transmission is running great.

 

- but the bad part is I think it is in fact leaking from the torque converter seal. I tested it three times last night, being progressively less easy on it, checking for leaks between each run, and saw none. The final test was for about an hour, and when I got home the bolt hole of despair was dry. Was relieved, but this morning I checked it and there was about two drops of new clean ATF that had come from the hole.

 

I don’t know what constitutes a big leak or a small leak, but if it isn’t a DIY fix (and Lewis if you are not doing it, I probably won’t be doing it!), not sure what the future holds for keeping the car. Going to get some quotes.

 

Not good news Mike. 

I've just finished up mine making it ready to go auction on Tuesday night. 

I put all the beauty covers back on, cleaned the engine bay area, Cleaned the underneath from the atf leak also. What I did notice is when I started the car and let it warm up to nearly 90oC there was no leaking from the holes. Either it won't leak until its hot hot or the fluid level lower means less likelihood of leaking initially? 

Either way it ain't gonna fix itself and on Tuesday night someone will be the (un)lucky owner. Not the way I would like to sell it but cost of repair and change in circumstances forces a quick sale. 

Most buyers are traders who will export to another middle east country and make some profit. The saving they will make under the book value will partly be spent on repair but that's the gamble of the auction. Sold as seen.  

Fyi I never did have the injectors cleaned professionally but I'm 90% certain the blockage and poor spray pattern was the cause of the lean hesitation I battled for a year trying to fix. 

6 hours ago, nerdtalker said:

 

Yeah I'm less concerned with the first 5, I had to change ride height while working on the water pump to get comfortable so I had to turn the vehicle on. I just didn't bother clearing afterwards, but I did let the throttle re-adapt and heard the normal clicking sound associated with it feeling out the range of travel of the throttle plate. 

 

My passenger side SAI pump was seized and seemed to have truly just died, that's why I replaced it with a brand new one a week ago. Seeing both showing some error is pretty alarming. At startup everything seems fine, it's after I come to a stop after the freeway when SAI pumps kick in again for emissions that I get the CEL. It was pretty lumpy and clearly stuttered when the passenger side pump was dead, and returned to smooth after I replaced it. I have no idea why both showed up today as I felt and saw no change in revs.

 

I found Loren's P0492 troubleshooting document in another thread and will work through that. 

I don't get how the engine runs lumpy?

The SAI pumps air into the exhaust and doesn't affect combustion directly. Indirectly the feedback from the lambda sensor will have some effect on fueling but to run lumpy as a result doesn't sound correct to me.

My idle is fine and both SAI don't work. 

You sure the pulsing isnt the exhaust Gas pumping up passed the check valve? Mine did that on bank 1 until I blocked the pipe off, no sound now. 

Unless the US models are different? 

4 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

But every once in a while, you will find the exception that has to look at absolutely everything, and the problems start.

Yeah that's a pita, in uae they test in 3 mins no joke, brake test rollers, beep horn, look at lights on front and back, roll forward and shove Gas analysis probe in exhaust so quick it doesn't even settle, roll on to ramp lift and wave their touch around looking for road kill left overs maybe and the DOT for the tyres less than 3 yrs ago and that's it! Rubber Stamp and pay 150 dollars see you next year suckers. 

Funny when they did the Audi ......The Inspector revved the engine and intake sound of the supercharger made his colleague who had his head in the engine bay doing a "torch inspection" Sh*t his pants. Lol hehe hehe 

"Whats that?" he said trying to play it cool after he left his skin for a brief moment. An air filter I replied, why it makes strange noise? It's because of the carbon fibre cover I said.... Hehehe

2 hours ago, nerdtalker said:

A week ago I had an issue with my secondary air injection system on bank 1, got P0491 and rough / weird idle after coming to a stop after freeway driving. I checked the secondary air pump and sure enough it didn't make any sounds or vibration on cold startup on the passenger side bank. I replaced that pump, then had an unrelated water pump maintenance event (smelled coolant, saw play in the pulley, and replaced the pump and pulley).

 

I blew down the passenger side SAI hose and it was fairly difficult (I thought I'd give myself an aneurysm), and sucking didn't pass any air. I believe that's the correct operation. 

 

A day passed, and now after coming to a stop after freeway driving again I look down and see CEL illuminated, and after scan P0491 and P0492. It seems unlikely that both the new pump and the old pump are dead. I had a bunch of other codes from turning the car on to accessory status while the MAP and N75 solenoid and a few other things were unplugged while replacing the water pump. I'm hoping that the DME was just confused or something.

 

Any ideas why suddenly both SAI pumps would show as failing?

The first 5 codes are exactly what you see if you switch on the ignition with the map sensor and throttle body disconnected electrically. Ask me how I know. Clear codes and do the throttle body calibration either with the software or just ignition in and don't touch throttle pedal and don't start engine, after 1 minute switch off ignition and then back on and start engine, idle for a few min and go for a normal drive. 

The SAI codes I also have them on the very rare occasions it will need a cold start. These SAI are prone to failure due to age but also the check valve leaks and let's hot exhaust gases and carbon fry up and coke up the SAI internals plus the fan blades like to snap off and get lodged in the check valve. 

You don't really need SAI, (emissions blah blah and quicker cat warm up to get into closed loop) you can plug the pipe with a 3/4" GI threaded plug and jubilee clip and ignore the code. Cold starts might be a little lumpy as the cats take a few seconds longer to heat up but who cares. 

This is what I did because the check valve is a real b * tch to get to at the deep back of the engine. 

Saves money and it cant break cos it already broken .......

35 minutes ago, pauli b said:

my first port of call was to check make sure all sensors ok  by checking continuity 

the old sensors i bared the wires joined together and plugged back in (this usually works) still problem there 

The two prong connector from the harness to the wear sensor just needs cleaning. A small amount of corrosion or dirt will increase the resistance enough to trip the computer. 

Wrap a small flat blade screw driver with emery paper and clean the pins up, spray male pins and female connector with electrical cleaner solvent and allow to dry, plug all back together and cycle ignition key, start engine,  check warning is not present anymore. Throw the wheels back on. 

4 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

I was thinking that, but I worry with transmissions any small threads of silicon that might come off in the pan could get sucked into the small passages in the valve body. Going to try it tonight and see how it goes.

Put the small neat sealer bead on the outer edge of the sealing face so any squeezed sealer would only come to the outside and wouldn't go into the transmission. 

The tube of sealer should come with a small screw on fine nozzle which allows you to control the bead and lay down a nice skinny amount that will squash down evenly but doesn't have the width to get inside the transmission.  Let the tightened up sump pan sit for an hour and let the sealer go off completely, before filling up with fluid. It won't leak if done carefully. 

I'm sure you'll be alright. 

7 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Maybe I actually own a rebranded Touareg lol! So on closer inspection of it I do in fact have a real VW gasket as well, 09D-321-371. The gasket looks perfectly fine; it’s hard to tell for sure of course but when I took it off it did seem like there was dirt on the transmission mating side inside the ridges, and the pan side was wet with ATF all the way to the outside. But if it is fine, how could I loose 3-4 litres of ATF? Bolt torque is really that important I suppose. Two were finger tight only, two had low torque, but the rest were OK. This makes me worry the torque converter seal is also gone. The ATF was amber btw.

 

I think the best thing to do now is clean the gasket up, reinstall, torque properly, clean everything and watch for fresh leaks. It probably took a month of driving to get this low, as everything was dry when I did the driveshaft support fix.

 

That TransGo kit looks tricky but worth trying...but going to sort out the leak first then see how it is doing.

If you reuse the gasket you might consider a careful bead of high temperature gasket sealer? 

And yes 100% hygiene is key to leak free sealing faces and tighten bolts helps too lol

4 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks Lewis,

 

Only got another litre out of the pan - wow it was low, surprised it even drove. It’s all apart, but will probably have to swap my wheels to get it off the ground enough to let the wheels turn. Going with the Toyota IV ATF at $8 per litre. My decision now is to wait 5-8 days for a Elring gasket for $12, or buy the Porsche one that is in stock today for $140. Our back up vehicles are not running so well, so might suck it up and get the Porsche one. Looking at the non-OEM one that was one there, I was not too impressed with the material. When there are metal grommets to keep us from over tightening it (which is good), you really have to trust the gasket manufacturer. Mine seemed very soft, and it seems like it wasn’t sealing at all on the pan side. My transmission pan says VW on it, but I don’t think that is a problem. Trying to talk myself into getting the Porsche one…

If the pan sealing face is flat then you don't need to waste money on a new one. Everything is vw on this car don't be fooled by the porsche hype. 

The pan bolt tightening torque is very important, tighten evenly and don't over tighten, the gasket will be fudged up otherwise. 

1 hour ago, Zakowsky said:

OK, a few questions - is the full volume of fluid supposed to come out of the T40 drain plug? Car is level, on jack stands and only about 4 liters came out. I know some more will come when I take off the pan, but not another 4-5 liters...do you have to run the engine to get it all out, or is it just that low (hard to believe) on fluid?

 

Also, when filling, some say leaving it in neutral while running is OK, other say put it in reverse and drive for 5 seconds. The 22” wheels are just barely off the ground, I’d rather leave it in neutral, or will I get less in there that way? Maybe I should put the 20” wheels on for this. Thanks.

Dry Fluid capacity is 9litres but fluid change is 8-9litres because you likely won't get the last 1 litre out. 

So yes it looks like it's under filled/ leaked a bit out already. 

Drop the pan and measure the rest. 

Refill: pump in until it spills and screw in plug. Start engine and run in P for a min then into N and leave it there for a while. If you have it safely off the ground its ideal to run through the gears and get a good circulation.

The temp of 40oC is supposed to be the magic number for a full transmission, so before it gets hot, engine still running and in N slide under and unscrew the plug again and pump in some more fluid until it runs out. Replace plug and switch off engine. Let it cool off for a while (so the final time you repeat engine on ...plug out.... pump in until comes out) you are topping of fluid which is approx 40oc.

Our vagcom has fluid temp I think. 

Mike

I used non oem gasket and filter and Toyota type iv and no leaks (excluding the torque convertor seal). 

I'm with brainz hard downshift is valve body solenoid problem. 

I've had the bad up shifts when engine was running bad due to vaccum hose split and alternator was cropped out battery dying. Otherwise the transmission is very smooth, smoother than audi s tronic (double clutch of course). 

On 30/04/2017 at 6:03 AM, Renzo511 said:

Is 120 psi across all 8 cylinders  ( 1 or 2 psi variable ) on a cold engine bad ?

Don't seem right to me. I thought 180 was more like it. 

Other cayenne S owners recorded 180-200! 

You stated you had 170 before and number 8 was lower at 158! 

I'm confused now? 

1 hour ago, smithh said:

Hi - yes looked at this $2,000 plus.  Way too much money for me, I'm afraid.  :-(

With vagcom you can set the "offset" height to increase and decrease the actual ride height of the normal position.

The level Control module coding is required to be changed. Vagcom gives you instructions as per the screen shot, sorry for bad image. There are increments from -25mm up to +20mm on front and rear axle. 

This is your cheapest way to increase normal ride height I reckon.  

2 hours ago, Mr. Haney said:

Was that hillbilly talk for "agreed"? LOL

 

I think they call it young slang where I'm from, South of England..... As opposed to the Dirty South across the pond.... Lol 

2 hours ago, Mr. Haney said:

What is interesting to me is that the head bolts, the ex. cam sprocket, and the Intake cam adjuster all use the same exact m12-1.5x140 bolt. The head bolts end up at 22ft lbs with a final torque angle of 90°. The exhaust cam sprocket bolt ends up at 37ft lbs and 90° torque angle. And, the intake sprocket/adjuster bolt ends up at 37ft lbs with a whopping? 135° torque angle. How does the same bolt cover so much ground? These are stretch bolts and Porsche states that the head bolts can be reused. Porsche also states that the cam adjuster/sprocket bolts can be reused if the bolts and diamond washers are only loosened and not completely removed. Am I the only one that thinks there is no difference once it's been torqued and loosened? 

Common sense init!

5 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

I am really confused.

 

Here some other thread:

 

There our member noted that if Fuse 14 is out and the car is struggling the DRIVER side pump is gone. 

 

Can somebody clarify please

 

 

 

This info is incorrect, as per the porsche diagram the fuse 14 is the driver side left side pump. 

13 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

@lewis

 

Nothing happens. If Fuse 14 is Out the Car doesnt Start at All. Inside the Tank now maybe 25 liters

 

If fuse 13 is OK and the relay is also ok then perhaps the right side pump has a problem! You should check the connector as well under the seat to the regulator unit which of course passes the power to the right pump and level sensor. 

A garage can use power probe to activate the pump and bypass the relay and controller to verify if the pump will run or not. 

12 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Just to be shure.

I pulled the Fuses 13 and 14.

When i pulled 14 the Car dies after a few seconds. Fuße 14 is the passenger side pump? This means the System is changing to the Pump on Driver side. If it dies means the Pump on drivers side is Toast!?
 

Is it a difference in pulling the fuses or pulling the Relais? 

Fuse 14 is the left pump. It should die when pulled assuming you don't have a low fuel level, which would leave the right pump running anyway.

Try pulling fuse 14 and then cycle the ignition and start and run car on right pump.  Both pump should be able to run independently. 

15 hours ago, Renzo511 said:

Is there anyway to check each cylinder is getting spark ? 

Not to familiar with coil.packs, it seems all the gas is not combusting. I have tried a few different plugs and same results

Pico 4 channel scope required, which is why physical checks was advised. 

Have you switched between left and right pump it may just be a weak fuel pump. Takes 2 mins to check this. 

13 hours ago, nerdtalker said:

I've got a weird issue with my 955TT. When I activate the windshield wipers, I used to get full spray onto the windshield. Recently however all I get is a very wimpy low pressure stream onto the bottom quarter or so. The headlight washers seem to still have full pressure and spray pretty well. I also don't get any spray on the rear window, although that's never worked while I've owned the truck. 

 

I don't seem to have any washer fluid reservoir leaks (from what I can tell), and the nozzles seem fine. It's almost like a hose is pinched somewhere, but I can't quite trace where it goes. 

 

I guess there are two separate pumps for the washer fluid, one for the headlights and another for the windows (20 and 21). Has anyone had just one die?

This link may help. 

Looks like the windscreen pump has duel pipes out for front and rear together on one pump and headlight wash is separate pump with higher pressure I imagine. 

So without jumping the gun I would say a good bet is the windscreen pump is knackered. 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/75-BODY-Windshield_Washer_Reservoir_Replacement/75-BODY-Windshield_Washer_Reservoir_Replacement.htm