lewisweller

8 minutes ago, 06TTS said:

Got it figured out, needed a new air quality sensor and the fuse for the air pressure was blown. Problem though... A/C still isn't working but all faults are gone and don't come back. Compressor spins freely. Fuse in the engine bay (15 amp fs11) is good but can't seem to figure out where the relay for the A/C is located. Done tons of searching and I found the relay is R3. Any idea where this is located?

 

Look near the battery. 

Well after some time to have a clear head and the realistic fact that finding someone to buy this potential (actually sitting) lemon would be almost impossible, I'm left with the only way forward being to scrape up the cash and have it fixed. 

I'm researching the diy but it seems too much without a lift and transmission jack. 

So when I can get around to doing this torque convertor seal repair is there anything else that would be a no brainer to get done whilst transmission is out maybe saving me from future hair pulling and tears? 

1. Engine crankshaft end seal (flywheel off and check, new bolts) 

2. Trans Filter and atf fluid is a obvious one even though it's just 15,000km since last time. 

3. Flex disc. 

Anything else ... on the cheap side of sensible?

9 hours ago, 09CayennePepper said:

Well. got them replaced, went out for a test drive with Durametric running live on the HP Fuel Adaptation 1 and it started out at 0.79, good. After a couple of miles it started dropping eventually after about 7 miles it is back to the dreaded 0.69. HP fuel pressure still fluctuating back and forth over the set point. Another grand, same problem. 

The now 10month old "new" hpfp I reckon is suspect. Its the only thing that makes sense. I would be pushing for that diagnosis confirmation and warranty replacement before it expires.

A quick search reveals on this and other Porsche models tsb/campaign for defective hpfp and new pumps lasting just 4k in some cases then needing replacement. 

The buzzing noise is likely the auxiliary water pump item 16, (not sure your model year or options though).

It's mounted behind the left driver side Wheel arc cover. 

Fan on is the signal for the pump to run if calling for heat. It may be coolant temp dependant as well but not sure hence won't make noise if engine cold?

4 hours ago, Brainz006 said:

That completely sucks - - sorry to hear. Mine went a few years back. I'm all for turning a wrench, but removing the trans is a big boy job requiring a lift and a buddy to help with removal. I paid the transmission shop about $1300 and called it a day. Frustratingly, the repair shop pinched the oring on the trans filter and underfilled it, leading to additional work to sort out why it was shifting oddly. Eventually it got sorted.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

Yeah I'm totally gutted. 

I'm going to sell the car with full disclosure to new owner that they need to fix this and the injectors need cleaning. 

My luck just couldn't get any worse. 

I noticed some atf fluid on the warehouse floor and thought it must be the front differential leaking since I just changed the fluid but no. 

The bell housing has two holes in it and the atf fluid is dripping out of one of the holes. 

A quick google search confirmed it's the seal and the transmission fluid is leaking out via the failed seal. 

The seal is 40dollars but the work involved is not a small feat in fact it looks a real b * tch to do. Especially without a lift. Has anyone DIY'd this repair?

I'm total skint for car funds and this couldn't come at a worse time. Ahhhhhh

The front differential noise is better at 120kph but I notice it starts the noise at 125-130kph now, so it seems the fluid just shifted the resonance of the bearing noise to a different speed. Lol. 

Well the fluid that come out was clean and no metal so I will just live with the noise, no biggie. 

Steering rack passenger side end Seal hydraulic seal and o-ring changed today couldn't really see why the seals installed last year would leak. I checked for wear and also tears and found nothing. 

All OK so far. 

Also changed front differential oil for redline heavy duty shock proof oil. We'll see if it quietens down the front differential bearing noise at 120kph. 

Rear camera won't pop open now! It's never ending ..........

1 hour ago, weapons777 said:

Not quite a DIY fabrication of the part but this might help when disassembling.
 

 

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This must be my brother from another mother. Some of his comment are just asking for a bashing lol. 

Note to self wiper arm puller required. 

1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

Instead of fabrication, or McGivering the system, why not just buy the correct replacement parts and be done with it?  Has to be quicker and probably cheaper as well......

If the wiper motor was caput I would agree. To fix a small bush at a relatively cheap expense it's got to be worth a punt. I'll be sure to post my failure if thats the McGivering result. 

Not to mention I'm broke and saving up for professional injector cleaning next week. Lol another day in paradise....

Another one to add to the list of jobs...

The passenger side wiper which has a double linkage and double shaft, one of the shaft metal bush is cracked and the wiper doesn't work correctly. The shaft spins inside the wiper arm and relies on the other part of the linkage and shaft to make the passenger wiper sweep in a fashion. 

So I'm looking and thinking about a cost effective Fix for the infrequent bit of rain we get here. 

Few ideas:

1. make another bush machine shop job

2. Make a home made bush out of aluminium can, seen this done before. 

3. Drill and tap and then screw through the arm and into the shaft to lock all components together. 

Anyone had this issues and fixed it? 

Picture won't load up ....error 200????

53 minutes ago, Echapa13 said:

In deed I replace the left pump now the car it doesn't dies, is much better but now when I'm driving it (now I can at least) it looses power and get like stuck, I'm replacing the right pump and crossing my fingers to finally fix the issue 

the whole forum is great and it has been a great Place to look for information 

You might consider replacing the fuel filter and possibly the regulator if when tested it doesn't hold 3 bar after ten mins of being switched off. 

4 hours ago, Echapa13 said:

 

I check the charging voltage and is 14v when the car goes to lower rpm the voltage goes to 12.5 or so. But I did separate fuel pump test and I have in one pump pressure unstable starts in 60 psi then goes as down as 20 psi (in that point is where the car whant's to stop and when the pump goes back to 60 psi the car goes to normal rpm yesterday I ordered today I'm going to replace it I let you know 

This must be the left pump then?

So likely the rough rpm is causing the alternator to also deliver under voltage. Well see if the fuel pump replacement does the trick. Best of luck. 

59 minutes ago, Doug_B_928 said:

Thanks for checking, Lewis.  When I was at the dealer for diagnosis I did ask them about a stuck lifter.  They were fairly adamant that a stuck lifter would be causing a CEL.  Do you recall who the fellow was with the stuck lifter?  I'd like to PM him to see if he recalls a CEL or any codes he was getting.

This is it. My mistake he didn't change the solenoid in fact. 

Amazing he only had 50k odd on the engine as well. 

7 hours ago, Doug_B_928 said:

Where do you get M1 flushing fluid? 

I'm checking now and for the life of me I can't find it. The last time I used it was when the Mobil 1 service centre in dubai did the 110,000km oil change on the Golf about two years ago. Maybe it's been discontinued? Alternatives are liqui moly which has the best reviews, for an add to old oil type flush. 

6 hours ago, bberryj said:

Hi Mattehlers. Do you happen to have part number for evap purge valve and location of the valve?

Thanks

Item number 3. 

It sits about 6" to the right and 2" lower of the throttle body. 

2 hours ago, Doug_B_928 said:

Update:  I took the car to the dealer and, as suspected, they diagnosed the trouble code as the valve lifter solenoid.  They said replacing it has always solved the problem in the past.  So I spent last weekend doing the replacement.  I have a write-up forthcoming on that.  Unfortunately, the rough idle persists.  So even the pros are a bit confused by this one.  I'll probably order new plugs soon and, if that doesn't work, then bite the bullet ($$$) and replace the remaining 7 original coils. 

Ummm this sounds familiar! The guy that changed the valve lifter also had the solenoid diagnosed first and replaced without success. 

If your near your oil service maybe worth doing the flush and oil change? Gamble vs possible engine tear down.....

2 hours ago, Echapa13 said:

I post you 2 videos for better understanding 

 

Any help or idea will be appreciated 

2 hours ago, Echapa13 said:

Hi I just bought a cayenne 3.2 V6 2006 base model, on my way home car was running fine, 

second day morning went to put some gas and after getting home car idle was rough Stop the engine and start back on now the car start goes to 1000 rpm for 5 seconds and then start shaking going to 500 rpm or less for about 30 seconds then car it self try to correct and goes to 1100 rpm for the same 5 seconds and then back to the bad idle.

If i press de gas pedal right after the start car goes fine without any issue to 4000 rpm for the same 5 seconds and then complete loose the power, back to the 500 Or less rpm. When the car try's  to correct back to the 1000rpm I can gas up to the 4000 rpm fine, is like a loop.

 

I have a Autel Scaner shows 1 code in the getaway

code 532 power supply 

 

what i have done:

new battery

new coils and spark plugs 

check fuel pump all good 

check the spark in the coils 

fix 2 vacuum pipes 

 

I have no idea of what else I live in Panama and I'm 600 miles away from the only Porsche dealer. I'm a mecanic but out of ideas now any help will be much appreciated 

thanks 

 

First thing to do is check your alternator. The voltage is way too low and the code 532 is for low voltage.

I would guess your alternator regulator is broke and also causing the idle problems as well. 

Charging voltage should be 13.7- 14.2 volts. 

Just to keep this thread updated, will be taking my injectors to a local garage here in dubai to be professionally cleaned for about 140 dollars. 

Wish me luck this is the end to the story........

2 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

great!!! Thank you for sharing. Do you have such a service in UAE?

I found one garage who is going to charge 400dhs (about 85euro) to do it. 

They use ultrasonic cleaner and flow testing which seems to be the common practice. I asked if I can do a before and after check so as to verify the results, they said yes, so I will make a short video and post here after complete. 

4 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

So you decide to clean the injectors? No new parts? Didnt know thats possible to clean

Yep will be sending them for cleaning. These are the same type Bosch injectors he is cleaning in this video. 

Update after nearly a year..... Had some bad weather recently and a lot of muddy dirty roads and sand/grit about. I noticed the steering felt a tad tight then all was OK. 

A few days later thought I best do some checking and I can see the rack end seal area is a bit moist. The seal is leaking a bit for sure. I reckon some water and dirt got inside and damaged the seal. 

Lucky I bought a spare hydraulic seal and it should be an easy fix plus a couple hundred ml of fluid top up. 

Will add that to the long list of must get on with.....

1. Steering seal

2. Top mount front strut bush both sides.

3. Top wishbone arm driver side 

4. Send injectors for professional cleaning 

5. Fix this darn "check tail light warning"

 Ah to be a cayenne owner is a charm....

Wow can't believe how expensive a Bosch injector is new! Multiply by 8 equals .... Broke ***. 

Some I see selling are remanufactured. Erm had one bad experience of remanufactured part already (alternator) and not confident about another. 

Any one got any insight as to whether injectors online remanufactured are any good? Or maybe I should try and find a local place to do it here, and they can demonstrate the working injectors before I had over my cash. 

8 hours ago, 06TTS said:

I will ask them in the morning. Would this cause the 819 fault (AC pressure sensor open circuit / short to ground)? Compressor fired up after the sensor change and then code came back and nothing again.

 

Thanks Lewis

I doubt it. The fact you put a new sensor in and the fault came back might suggest a wiring harness issue to that sensor? 

I stated the charging capacities as this is a common mistake by shops. 

Some more in depth diagnostic required I think. 

3 hours ago, 06TTS said:

 

Yeah system is still changed fully

How many grams did they put in? 

For four zone it 1050g

For two zone it's 750g

If they didn't charge it right either under or over it won't work properly. As me how I know when the German car specialist gagrage charged my four zone with 750g and it ran but not cold at all.