lewisweller

17 hours ago, angusc said:

 

I have been struggling all day to get my rear park assist working. The front works ok but the rear would always show immediately the red lights. On the PIWIS or Durametric analyser it showed the rear sensors were short circuit to +B.

The rear bumper looks as though it had been repainted as well as the sensors, so I removed one rear sensor and plugged it in to the front harness. This resulted in the front system giving red light and not working.

So next I removed the rear sensors and buffed off the paint and re fitted. Now when putting the car in reverse it momentarily shows the green lights for about 2 seconds before turning red. Also now PIWIS does not show any fault codes for the sensors.....so it looks like the sensors are now working ok.

But without any fault codes I'm a bit lost for what to try next.

Anyone have any ideas?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Get a really quiet area and put car in reverse with ignition on engine off. Then jump in the boot, and pass your hand over each sensor, you will hear a faint click if the sensor is good. No click or very weak click normally indicates a dead or faulty sensor. 

50 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks - so is it supposed to separate at the seam under the clamp? I used WD40 and tried for an hour to pull these apart and they won’t budge. I’m not used to working with plastic parts like this....trying to pry it apart and just gouging things up. 

Removing the top hose is not worth it, trust me.

This might help you visualise what the maf is connected to. 

It is a tight fit even with the clamp loose, to get it out rock it side to side whilst hold the lower flexi pipe ribs. As long as you don't rip the lower pipe up, so holding it tight you can wiggle and curse the maf out of the housing. 

When you refit maybe a small wipe of silicon grease on the pipe inner contact point will serve you better for the next time.  

50 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

Finally went to clean the MAF sensors; minor questions – to get out the air tubes holding these is easy on the normally aspirated engine, but the turbo sticks them down at the sides. Do people take out the whole air tube to do this, or just unscrew the sensor? Looks like getting to the inner bolt on the drivers side is a bit tight for room....

 

Passenger side is better

 

Also, can you clean the pressure sensor with MAF cleaner as well? If not, just carb cleaner? Or not to bother?

 

Also, if you unplug them (with the engine off...) do you have to reset any codes afterwards? I still don't have a OBD2 working yet, and will probably clean them attached if there is a risk of that. Thanks!

 

If you have the special tool bit you can unscrew the maf sensor alone and pull out spray clean and refit. Unplugging with ignition off will not set any new codes. 

The MAP sensor yes can be cleaned with carb cleaner. 

Remember do not rub wipe scrub any sensors, only spray then let evaporate and repeat. 

I used electrical contact solvent cleaner but the proper MAF cleaner is probably better. 

Try and let the spray run out and not ingress into the sensors housing and other areas which may not like it. 

Picture is what your going to see maf removed, just right of my thumb is the slot where the air passes the metal heated plate spray through there and it should be shiny and like mirror clean. 

The diode to the left of my thumb, also can spray clean no probs. 

14 minutes ago, Clutch-n-Throttle said:

I got under the truck yesterday.  I checked those diff bushings.  They looked like they had some small cracks in the rubber.  I tried moving the diff by hand and it felt fairly tight.

 

I checked the transmission mount that is attached to the cross member.  I can easily move the tranny around with my hand.  Going to replace that soon.

 

I hear you on the 10 year old truck.  Im at the point where I have to decide if Im going to spend the money maintaining it or get myself a newer Cayenne.  I love this SUV.

I'm at the point where if I sell this thing someone gets a bargain with a shed load of new parts and tlc for free and probably a great suv for a good few years more. 

That's why I made the decision now what ever happens I will persevere because I can never get back what I spent so have to take the enjoy instead. After driving the old man's ford Explora 2016 around with its pants 300bhp bag of nails sounding weak asthamtic engine I think screw spending 175k AED on that pos I'd rather spend 45k AED on a ctt with 500bhp and do some work and spend some money making it a great motor once again. 

On 1 November 2016 at 9:29 AM, Clutch-n-Throttle said:

I got it now.  Those mounts are for the front axle and differential. I need to check those. 

 

Thanks again

 

Sorry mislead you with saying transmission mount lol. 

Did you find anything yet? 

I got a bit of a steering wheel shake when I accelerate a bit hard and higher speeds. I don't know if wheel balance, engine mounts, or just old bushes in the lower arm, ball joint and or steering tie rods and rack mounts are showing their age now. Nothing oblivious is loose or broke. I changed the right side top arm some weeks ago, the ball joint was oval shape and loads of play, I have the left side arm ready to fit but I checked and it's solid still so wasn't rushed to change it. I think given its 10yr old I might as well crack on and strip the left side replace that top arm and have a good search and check for anything else worn out. 

Wheel balance and rotation doing on Friday, alignment done 4 weeks back and all good. 

Its the AOS diaphragm is split I think, haha I thought it sounded like a balloon when you blow it up and stretch the neck and let the air escape slowly screeeeech, make sense the diaphragm is rubber.

I will pop it out later to make sure, now need to buy another one from that BMW website and a air compressor seal and piston ring as well whilst i am at it. .

VID_20161101_171405.mp4

I got a code!! Driving today gave it some beans and here a weird noise something leaking I think, sounds like a fan belt screeching but it only on high boost not rpm related.

I pulled P1090 code and looking at the O2 sensor on bank 2 it's all over the place jumping up and down. 

First pic is o2 sensors graph with snap open throttle, yellow line is bank 2.

Second picture is at steady idle, look at yellow line of 02 sensor bank 2 going wild. 

Third pic the dtc codes the Vagcom scan shows, ignore the SAI code I disconnected them. 

The maf reading g/s is also low for the idle I noticed. 

Few possibles here, leaky pipe somewhere, dv valve fault, faulty maf or o2 sensor or combination of these hence the noise has to coming from somewhere. 

Haven't time to get dirty today but excited to fix and see if by magic the remaining running hesitation is gone. 

Anyone got experience of P1090 code and weird boost leak screech noise. 

2 hours ago, boscology@gmail.com said:

inconsistent rough idle and a feeling of lacking power or missing. The way those hall sensors work is interesting, when it ran the worst it would start fun and run fine til over 1k rpm or something then when I eventually decelerated it would be very rough because I assumed the cps wasnt sending updated rpm speed info to the engine

 

Only a scope pickup to test the cps inductive pulse wave form will confirm if the sensor is the fault or if the timing is the issue ie stretched chain broken tensioner guides etc. 

If the garage fee is high then maybe cheaper to take a gamble and swap them both for peace of mind?

7 hours ago, Clutch-n-Throttle said:

Thanks for the quick reply. 

 

I was also thinking about changing out the transmission mount. I already changed out the engine mounts and strut arm about 2 years ago. 

 

But 3 transmission mounts?  I have been under the truck and I only see the main mount on the crossmember.  Where are the other two?  Most European parts suppliers only offer the main transmission mount that needs to be pressed out of the crossmember. 

 

Thanks again

Jose

Item 13 is the mounts we are looking at. 3 nos in total left right and rear. . 

Driveshaft rebuild done today but was rushing my *** off so no pictures at all. Quiet as a mouse now on full locks forward and reverse. Tick box

The test drive was great, first time since changing the wastegate to n75 valve flexi pipes that were leaking. Amazing difference in throttle response and pick up. Still is a bit clumsy from low rpm when the boost comes in strong but wow what a different car to drive without this small leak on the wastegate. 

I think the wastegates really play a critical role in how boost is delivered in the lower rpm especially and low early boost periods ie when boost is requested this is when the wastegate is most prevalent in how if it is malfunctioning you will feel it, at high rpm full boost acceleration it's less prevalent to the way the engine behaves. 

I need to find the correct groups on my vagcom to log boost requests vs actual and see if they are far apart. What's still mind boggling is in Park or neutral you rev the engine to 1k and just over 2k and it vibrates to hell, why I have no idea but if I fix this i out my life on it the surging and hesitant acceleration will also be gone. 

7 minutes ago, Clutch-n-Throttle said:

I need some help with my 06 CS(145k miles).

 

I am having a clunk in my driveline and Im trying to isolate the issue.  The clunk happens under a specific condition when I am slowing down from over 40 MPH.  For example, I begin to slow down for a red light ahead.  I let off the gas and brake slightly.  I slow down to say 15-25 MPH.  The light will turn green and I give it some gas.  Then I get a clunk in the driveline.  It sounds like its coming from the front axle or the tranny/transfer case.  It also happens when I slow down to make a right turn and I try to accelerate out of the turn.  If I'm very gentle on the throttle, I can avoid the clunk.  But that just messes with the tranny shift adaptation.  It also happens when Im on the freeway at over 50 MPH.  I will let of the gas and then quickly step on the gas.  It's like some kind of driveline lash.  Again. Don't know if its the transfer case or front diff.  The car is drivable but its getting annoying.  

 

I have reset the tranny adaptation with no luck.  I get the occasional 4-3, 3-2 downshift clunks(indicative of a valve body repair) after the reset, but the tranny behaves normally every other time.

 

So.  I need to find the location of the PSM relay.  I want to disable the PSM and remove the front cardan shaft.  That way I can find out if its my tranny/transfer case or the front diff.

 

Anyone else run into this problem?  Can someone direct me to where the PSM relay is located?  

 

Much Appreciated

 

Jose

San Diego, CA

First thing to visually check from underneath is the three mounts for the transmission, if they are cracked or split you get clunk when getting on throttle. 

Next is to check the engine mounts. Normally engine mounts will produce a vibration coming to a stop as the idle speed range is reached and driveline almost stops turning. 

So for me transmission mounts, mine were all spilt and yes I had a slight clunk if I was how shall we say "gettin on it" engine and driveline was dropped out for head gasket so was a no brainer.

Don't rule out out worn diff gears and driveshaft and even suspension bushes but this is less likely. 

3 hours ago, medlowa said:

Thanks Guys, I guess I'm replacing the horns, Any body done this? is it pretty straight forward?

Um I don't think it the horns themselves, does the steering wheel horn work? It a control module or firmware/software issue normally. 

11 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Great job!

According your post and the pictures i understand you replaced only the broken sections?  Not the entire line from N75 to wastegate?!

Correct thomas the smaller pipe which is 6mm outer dia and 4mm inner dia I reused and just bought the 6mmx13mm pipe to connect to the smaller pipe and down onto the wastegate. Fits nicely and not a squeak of air leak can be heard after. Perfect.

Looking forward to driving after rebuilding CV joints and boots tomorrow. Will do a picture and write up of driveshaft rebuild for the sake of it.

24 minutes ago, max911 said:

According to the Owners Manual in my 2004 S:

 

Fuse Box Left side of Dashboard

Position: 16

Amperage: 20

 

page 296 of your manual shows location and access to the left side fuse box.

page 297-299 shows the fuse positions for the left side fuse box.

 

Side note- horn (horns) failing on the early Cayennes is a known issue.

 

good luck,

max

Correct no horns and other issues related to the alarm, keys range, memory settings, locks lights inside and out are all classic rear comfort convenience module (ccm) problems. Some have had them replaced, some have had them reloaded with new updated firmware and soft ware, some live with the related issues,

I have "check tail light" and "brake light fault" warning when pressing brake pedal with lights on, only if voltage is lower than 13.3 volts from other loads on; otherwise it works fine, also the horn for lock and unlock is mute. 

I've tried recoding it with my vagcom, it works, the new code that is, but the problems aren't fixed. I would try a used ccm but needs key coding and I think only Piwis can do this. 

10 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Great info indeed; lewisweller, thanks for all the help here. And hah! I found the correct T (perfect zoom on the correct line), right there under the intake pipe. No leaks on the DV’s. I will test the waste gate opening, but first I have to get a better regulated pressure source – I just have a huge air compressor and I don’t trust the accuracy of the pressure regulator that low. Going over the maintenance records again I see that a few years ago they detected a “minor vacuum leak in the waste gate actuator” which was causing some misfiring. Maybe that is happening again. The whole idea of limp home mode is unsettling, and I still don’t have a Durametric cable. But in the mean time I’m charging up the GoPro and will film a clip of with the engine sounds for fun.

Hearing a noise on thursday sounds like a leak only under boost conditions. 

So Today I practised what I preached. Did intake Hill Billy style smoke test through the MAP sensor hole with air box pipes plastic bagged closed, which was fine no leaks, also quickly checked the dv vac pipes no leaks. But when pressurising the wastegate vac pipe from n75 valve could hear loads of air leaking out both sides. Just running my hand along the pipe down to the wastegate could feel the pipe was split almost identically on both side vac pipe. 

Both vac pipes are very brittle I tried to cut of a bit and reconnect but no dice. So jumped in the dad's ford (pos) and headed for the hydraulic pneumatic shop. Found the 6mm id x 13mm od pipe and swap both section either side, lucky it fits nice over the wastegate spigot stub pipe without a clip cos heck I can't get my fat fingers in there let along a tool to fit a clip on the pipe. The best thing is the new pipe allows the smaller pipe section which run up to the T and into n75 to just slide inside and with some "Ear clamps" I bought pinches nicely around to make an air tight seal for just $4. Bargain!

I also replaced that little flexible piece of pipe on the bottom vac pipe of the n75 valve as it broke twice and I couldn't cut it any shorter lol. 

So guys don't buy expensive new pipes from Porsche for $100's just get a size sample and head down to you local hydraulic pneumatic shop. 

Also changed the oil and filter today. Oil was very thin and black after just 4k km. Also the filter was full of crap and bit of I don't know what but not metal. I think left over grim from the head gasket job 6 months ago. Glad I did it the filter must have been near blocked by the look of it. I refilled with a "cost effective" German made vw approved brand Ravenol 10w40 as I think this aging engine and it's variocam system required a thicker viscosity as it wears in later life. Being only semi synthetic means a earlier change but here in middle east I never go above 10k and would be changing this oil after another 5-6k km. 

Some comments on oils for older ctt would be interesting if anyone cares or has info to share pls?

On 24 October 2016 at 5:15 PM, ekstroemtj said:

the better drive habits didnt last long.

running is going to be the same like before. almost.

 

i have always a one time wonder when i remove and reinstall the MAF the car is driving very good for some miles after this job.

 

what could cause this phenomenon? can i messure the voltage at the MAF connection? what reading i should see?

 

Thank you

 

This is the best article I've found so far on testing maf, I'm going to do it tomorrow if I get time. Using the Vagcom voltage of the maf is not entirely accurate maybe? Also will try a full acceleration log graph of the maf reading and see if it is looking correct. 

Will post my findings..........

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/vw/1.8L/maf-sensor-tests-1

1 hour ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks - mine does have its fair share of strange sounds. I think the "honk" noise could be there; what was interesting to hear was the other post with the videos of the exhaust system install. Mine sounds similar to the fully modified version from the outside, but quite different inside. Most notably is when the wastegates open there is that classic aftermarket turbo loud air release sound. But again I am not sure of all the mods that were done to mine; maybe there is a different blow off valve setup or something. I need to take a look at my wastegates, DVs and turbos and see if anything is not stock. I tried your test – to bad you can get manuals so easily for all other Porsches except the Cayenne; I have to go over the parts fiches some more to figure what is what. Mine is set up a little different. I believe the red arrow points to the T as in yours – I disconnected it from the solenoid it goes into at the green arrow and blew – there is no leak really, but you can feel what seems like a diaphragm flexing a bit as you increase pressure. Didn’t want to blow too hard and damage something. I took off the line with the blue arrow that also goes to that solenoid and air just free flows through there; I assume that is the vent? I have to go over the diagrams and learn what is where on this. I will try and take a sound clip of it accelerating and post it. Thanks again.

My friend You have inadvertently tested the n75 valve and vacuum pipes to each wastegate and NOT the DV's which will be tucked under and to the right of the red arrow 1" and down 2". But not to worry, the blue pipe is indeed the bleed off air return to the turbo inlet so open is correct, the Green is the control pressure air to open the wastegates obviously just splits off at the T red arrow to each turbo wastegate. Now to open the wastegates you need between 7-12psi  and I'm sure you can't blow that hard, so use a air Compressor regulated to 10psi and pulse gently into green arrow pipe, you should hear no air leak at all or bingo you found a problem with either the vac pipes or the wastegate(s) diaphragm split. When you get the air pressure in the green pipe you can hear the wastegates creaking as they move, the sound should be simultaneous both side or something is not right. Again any air leak is going to cause running issues like for example over boost code and limp home reduced performance will start. 

To find the DV vac pipe it is this one in my zoom in of your picture dead centre of my first picture running vertically with the mini metal clamp, this runs along the manifold from the change over valve at the back of the engine. At the bottom end of the pipe you will find the T, it's hidden under the intake pipe in your picture. Mine is exposed as I lifted it above and next to the purge valve when I had it all apart, its so easy to check now routinely. 

12 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks, much appreciated. I think I will take out the tub this weekend and make sure everything looks OK. It’s running pretty good, but there is a kind of fluttering sound when the turbos are at work that I haven’t heard on other turbocharged engines.

On other Vag turbo cars I've owned when you put a cold air intake on it your can hear the Flutter of air noise from the wastegate flap opening and bypassing the exhaust gas around the turbo. The standard air box muffled and mutes this quiet well but intakes don't. 

Flutter noise is normally one of both of the diverter valves on our cars. If the diaphragm is split (most likely) or not operating correctly because the vacuum pipe is split or the changeover valve is not functioning correctly they can make strange noises, some describe as honking, this when the boost leaks around the dv and back into the turbo intake pipe. 

A simple test to check the dv is disconnect the T piece of the vacuum pipes which is just to the right side of the throttle Y pipe under the "turbo" cover. Pull apart the vac pipe from the right dv and blow hard, repeat on the open T pipe end also, if you can blow any air through you have a leak or a broken dv.

4 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Well I seem to have solved this, in case anyone ever wonders. I did figure out where the flex pipe is (that explains the flex...) and that the catalytic converter is not where I am used to finding it so the turbo is probably fine. It seems the rubber grommet supporting the exhaust is worn on one side and has a lot of play; it has the Fabspeed Turbo Maxflo exhaust system on it, and the alignment of everything is actually not that great. Anyways for testing purposes I jammed a bolt in the grommet to take up the play and the knocking went away. Easy fixes are so great. But I am still curious if anyone has DIY’ed their turbocharger with the engine in; also looking at it more closely, can you see the turbo if you take out the wheel tub plastic? Seems like you might be able to get access that way.

The driver side turbo can be partly viewed by removing the wheel liner and the complete air box. This is the view, you can see the wastegate actuator on the left.

Some more snippets can be seen from under neath. 

1 hour ago, chunki84 said:

Fixed finally

 

found problem at multiple vacuum lines.

Do explain more which pipes you found and where, also some pictures would be helpful for future searchers. Many Thanks  chunki85

7 hours ago, John White said:

Once again, did I mention how much I hate electrical issues? I FINALLY figured this out tonight. Went back inside the headlight and  was going to test the ground wire coming off the cornering light. Turns out it was a bit frayed at the connector. I fixed that and it seems to have solved the issue.

 

I think I have an idea what happened to cause all this. One of the bulbs went out awhile back and I grabbed new ones at the local parts place. I threw them out when I replaced them when all this trouble started so I can't check, but I have a sneaking suspicion they may have been a higher wattage bulb and caused the problems with the wire shedding the insulator like it was. Maybe, maybe not. Supposed to be 55w bulbs which is what I have now but I'd be willing to bet the ones I had last time were 100w.

 

Did I mention how much I hate electrical issues? I've been chasing my tail for way too long on this issue only to have it be a simple fix right back at the light.

 

Thanks for all the help and ideas though!!!

When I replaced my directional lights (same like you one bulb knocks out two) my wiring was also a little crispy and flaky, I tried to move it a least I could to do the swap as the more I moved the more bare world I could see. I put some electrical tape back over any exposed areas and buttoned it all back up. Been working for 7 months so fingers crossed won't give me anymore lip. 

7 hours ago, motivation said:

Hey Everyone I have a 2008 Porsche Cayenne GTS V8. I have multiple symptoms, the brake proportioning warning is on, Ignition Lock-fault, ABS light on, Brake light flashing and the brake lights stay on continuously even with the car off. The car runs fine with no issues except for the warning lights on. 

The Codes I found:

1314 DME Control Module

1315 Tiptronic Control Module

1316 PSM Control Module 

0456 KESSY Control Module (CAN Drive)

0455 KESSY Control Module (CAN Comfort)

15582 Please refer to vehicle service manual!

15583 Please refer to vehicle service manual!

0185 Relay for terminal 15 (activation) 0576 Terminal 15 Both these codes fixed by finding two broken wires (corroded), cut the wires and re-spliced them together. 

1312 CAN drive

 

I've found numerous forums on this website that helped me fix a couple of the issues, but not most of them. I checked for both front foot well carpets being wet, found passenger front foot well drenched wet. I pulled the passenger front seat out of the vehicle, pulled back the carpet and found a little water build up. I checked all the a/c drains cleaned them out, but found no water come out. Checked the sunroof drain hoses, found them good, checked the evaporator drain and found it to be good also.  Cleaned and dried the water out from the passenger front foot well, checked the wire loom and found three broken wires, repaired all three wires. Still none of the symptoms were fixed by fixing those wires. Pulled the driver side seat out and pulled the carpet back, found three wire broken their, repaired them. Two of those wires were for the relay 15 that helped fix the ignition lock fault. Fixed a third wire and found corrosion on four black thick wires combined as a sonic weld. Cut the wire and repaired them, those did not fix any of the symptoms. I checked all three fuse box locations, driver and passenger fuse box and engine compartment fuse box. Found all the fuses good. I checked all the ABS wheel speed sensor and the wires that go to the brake pads, they all seemed in good condition. Checked the battery and found it to be good, but still replaced it just in case with another new battery. Still the same issues, replaced that battery with another new one, just wanted to rule out battery for sure, still found same symptoms. I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes and cleared codes, but still the codes return immediately and the lights also (getting irritated right about now). I disconnected the ABS Module, but the warning lights are still on, I was thinking maybe the ABS Module was bringing down the system, this check I don't think still eliminates the possibility of the module being bad. The brake lights always stay on, when disconnecting the ABS module the brake lights turn off, but when reconnecting the brake lights stay back on. I believe on these newer Cayenne's that it does not have a brake pressure switch, but instead the signal voltage for the brake lights are sent by the ABS Module. I checked the ground wires (thick brown colored wires) for any corrosion none found (checked 8 different ground points on vehicle). I found after market head unit and disconnected it, but found nothing to change. I think perhaps the ABS Pump with Module and DME are bad or maybe something else, but I don't wanna take a guess since those items are extremely expensive. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Wow big headache and you done well to fix a lot so far. The brake light switch is in fact a hydraulic pressure switch on the brake master cylinder which will send a signal to Rear Comfort control module (located right side of boot with CD changer same place)  or via the abs module first but not sure. The fact you found so many corroded or broken wires will either mean you have some more to find or the component(s) associated got damaged during the wiring issues time. 

Sorry can't be more help this is nightmare fix without Porsche software. Good luck and keep us posted. 

22 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

I hit 21 mpg the other day - but I did have a tailwind!

 

 

So another update; the non-alcoholic gas helped, but now the cold weather is coming, it’s getting harder to start again when cold. Like a full 8 seconds of cranking before it catches. Like the automatic choke of days gone by isn't working. Instant start when warm. Runs perfect otherwise, except it gets a slightly rough idle sometimes, which goes away after I nail the throttle a few times. No problem starting after filling up the tank, or any of the other things that get mentioned on line. Going to try injector cleaner, any brand recommendations? I'm in Canada. Thanks.

Injection cleaner probably won't help, hot and cold starting with blocked injectors is the same symptoms really. I would be looking at temp sensor malfunction or compression possibly whilst checking spark plug condition too. Another possibility is fuel pressure regulator not holding the line pressure but 8second is still too long to wait the pressure to build up I think. More like 2-3 second to build and then start.  

9 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

So you want to tell me this battery is toast again? 

 

Yes 12volts is either very flat battery or its toast. 

Read this from the Touareg forum, they say if not battery voltage its the kessy unit and/or door handles faulty conflicting with the the shifter selector to give "move selector to P position" dash warning.!!!!!!

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/move-selector-lever-to-position-p-19031-5.html

I also know the kessy antennas and door handle sensors can drain batteries when faulty. Maybe all related problems Thomas?

19 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

 

Lewis,

 

i try to track down the drain problem by using a method which i found on you tube. Used the voltmeter and pinned every single fuse if there was some flow. All what i found is the fuse for the plug in connectors.  

Of course this problems are running down a battery very fast. No driving for some weeks and the battery is down. 

I charged . When the car is running its showing 13,8 in the engine compartment at the jumping connectors. Engine shut off its showing now 12.00

If battery measures less than 12.6volts it's no good. Must be charged or replaced if it won't charge properly. 13.8 volt is good from alternator but if battery is bad still it won't charge up or hold the charge.