lewisweller

15 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

 

Much larger range than I've seen with other vehicles actually. But I did do some tests after getting flack from my Prius driving friends; so my average reads as 13 mpg, but on the highway at 70 mph with cruise control it can actually get 21 mpg. But when I wind it out it can get as low as 10 mpg.

If I set my cruise to 140km/h and then hit the trip reset I can get 20mpg. 

Ok I think this thread is closed from my end thank goodness. Alternator perfect, Car starts much better in terms of faster cranking speed (less laboured crank over) whether that is the new battery or the fact I stripped the starter out and rebuilt it (no new parts mind) I'm not sure.  "Check tail light" when braking still appears if lights are on and AC fan is above speed 4 weirdly, haven't had the "four wheel drive" fault on dash yet! 

The car does run better! I'm sure its not my imagination or wishful thinking. It pulls better and won't down shift so quickly when I ask for extra speed, before it would be flat and not go when demanded meaning pedal is pressed further causing an unwanted downshift that rears the motor in to frenzy rpm to do a little overtake (leading to passengers grabbing for something to hold onto lol) overall more responsive and the jerky stutter acceleration seems to be better and it's improving as I drove today putting on about 60 km. So hoping after some more good km's, I mean not stuck in traffic, long blasts or high speed driving 

7 hours ago, bigbuzuki said:

There was a Porsche introduced power kit with code name IE81 that did convert the stock turbo cars into turbo S variants.

 

It included the upgraded engine ecu, intercoolers, suspension components, brakes.

 

When incorporated, the letter "S" is stamped on the engine block.

 

Ive attached the relevant reference for your info.

 

Correct, I have the E81 factory upgrade to 500bhp with larger red brembo brakes all round. 

What mpg are you getting out of the 2004 Zakowsky?

10 hours ago, mbagge01 said:

So they ended up replacing that wastegate line and they said that initially the car was starting hold a bit higher boost but then it dropped again and after they did some more pressure testing, they found problems with the pressure line from the turbo to the N75 valve. They are going to replace it, noting that it was very brittle and cracking. I hope that it will fix the problem.

Hope they get it sorted mate but honestly I think they are barking up the wrong tree hence the story about it was "better initially". I would be looking at pulling both dv out and testing them also check the intake Y pipe for splitting under boost and intercooler piping oring leaks and the change over valve piping leaks which will limit boost and also give a bit of jerky lift off. 

Maybe something with the tune??

Alternator is done! So easy with the correct alternator Hitachi not this crap Delphi brand. 

Had a bit of drama on the test drive, bottom radiator hose which I couldn't for the life of me get off so I left it on decided to blow off on a high speed test blast near the warehouse, the right side brake disc and wheel got coolant spray on it and I lost braking on that side pulling the car left as I tried to slow down, it was a Wtf moment lol, got in back in the warehouse a few 100m's away and quickly shut it down before it overheated, bottom hose went on after a few burnt elbow moments and topped off the coolant. 

Charging is 13.9v off load and 13.7 on load. 

AC works fine but occasionally will cut out the compressor, normally if in idling in traffic and then blast off higher revs I notice it cut out the compressor and start to smell a bit musty, it will kick back in eventually or I have to shut it off and back on fan speed wise to kick it back on. Any suggestions what this is? Re gassed after head gasket to 1050grams as per spec, AC filter is new, no warning dtc. 

Car seems to run a little better but only had a short drive home and too much traffic to let it rip. Verdict is still out but charging and starting is good even the rebuilt started feel like it spins over faster less laboured! 

Thomas the check valve I thought was leaking was in fact working properly when I removed it and tested. 

Alternator is here! Installing tomorrow, should take 2 hrs max this time with smaller Hitachi alternator going back in like the old unit, got it down pat now. 

20 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

OK, so I guess the honeymoon is over - my new to me 2004 CTTS is now taking longer to start when cold. When warm it's usually 1-2 seconds, but after sitting over night it can take around 5-6 seconds. Didn't do that when I got it 3 weeks ago. Is this normal, or should I be checking fuel rail pressure and such?

Also it has started running rough at idle after I have been dogging it around the city, but runs smooth at idle after I blow it out with some hard acceleration.

Another thing is I switched gas lately - I think we have less choices here in Canada, but I went from Esso 91 to Husky 94, which I thought would be better, but the 94 does have 10% ethanol. Could that contribute to the longer start times?

Thanks!

 

Well there is a few possibilities here in terms of train of thought, either the Ethanol (a solvent basically) has lossened deposits of crud from some places in the fuel system and clogged some other places instead or it has damaged some Seals or check valves. 

Or the problem has nothing to do with the Ethanol content in the fuel your using and it's a component failure for example the fuel pressure regulator, or filter(which has a built in check valve which can leak back) or evap check valve leaking, gas cap seal or vent line solenoid purge valve is faulty. Could do with some dtc codes and also I suggest not to use the Ethanol mix for a few tanks and add some injection/fuel tank cleaner and see what's the results. 

4 hours ago, Kikokiko1976 said:

Hi,
Sorry to revive this thread, i just did this fix but after connecting the module fuse 41(kessy fuse)keeps blowing, please help.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got any pictures of your pcb when it was out? What did you find was wrong when testing the resistors and mosfets? Check your dtc codes as I expect you will have a short to earth on an Antenna maybe if the module is not the problem. 

9 hours ago, John White said:

I'm having issues with my cornering lights, specifically the right side isn't getting any power. I pulled the pigtail and it checks out fine, there is power at the fuse, and I get continuity between the fuse and the left light socket but not the right side. No power at either headlight socket for the cornering light though.

 

So it seems to me there almost has to be short somewhere between the fuse and the right hand socket. But the way it winds through the dash and engine compartment I'm not sure how to track it down now.

 

If someone has a diagram of the wiring it would help a lot. Or if anyone has any other ideas they would be greatly appreciated too.

 

Thanks,

John

I've heard some stories of other bulbs being blown which stopped the direction lights working and wrong spec bulbs with wrong resistance also stop the lights working (only a Porsche could be this clever  Lol), also the light cluster slides into the housing Connector and doesn't fully click in sometimes. You have to push it in snug and then crank the boot tool on that cam arm mechanism until you get a nasty snap sound, yes you will think you broke it but its actually Ok .....unless you really broke it. If the connector is not snapped in tightly the weird light problems can happen. 

New Alternator Hitachi original has reached mother in the UK via Germany apparently, it should each Dubai by Monday or Tuesday and I'm itching to get it installed and fix this little check valve and see what's up. 

Really need to get a win, my dad is ribbing me about my expensive Porsche spending more time in pieces in our warehouse than on the road, (he only buys new Ford Explora POS and doesn't even check the oil in 15,000km! I'm sure I was adopted  Gotta have thick skin owning a cayenne lol

On 28 September 2016 at 7:13 AM, mbagge01 said:

I finally brought the car to my local Indy and they found that the leaking coolant I found was coming from the water pump. They also separated the wastegate lines from the N75 and said testing the wastegates, they function normally but they noticed that the wastegate lines When checked independently, were not holding pressure so possible the problem. When they get replaced, hopefully that will fix the problem.

I wouldnt hold your breath that is going to be the problem. From my understanding them pipes leaking would give an overboost code and limp home mode, seeing as you have neither and seem to be losing boost. 

 Have a look at this thread 

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47619-front-axle-clunking-noise…-differential-or-cv-joint/

1 hour ago, Cterry77 said:

It is definitely in the drive line. I can barely feel it at lower speeds driving down surface roads. Small vibration but a defining lump or loping feeling in the front. It isn't the tires out of balance just in case someone throws that out there. What is going on is not a constant but can be felt majorly at 60-70 MPH. It will go away with hard acceleration at any speed which leads me to believe something in the drive line is loose or has slack and tightens up with torque. I am not getting the typical clicking on the CV axles when hard turning to the right or the left. I would assume that if the transfer case chain was stretched then I would feel this at more of when the vehicle starts to move and anytime I hit the accelerator. This is more of a light acceleration issue. It will stop doing it for the most part if I allow the vehicle to coast or put it in neutral while driving. I have already checked the drive shaft and bearing and all that is fine. I actually think it was replaced before I purchased the car due to how good it looks. I am not thinking it is the transfer case motor as it is not an issue with shifting gears. I guess the best way to explain it is if anyone has had a bad U-joint before or dealt with a gear that has that one small point of resistance when spinning then pops past it. 

 

Let me add that it is heat related as well. When the car is first driven for the day it doesn't happen but as I drive it becomes more noticeable and if I drive on the interstate after about 10 miles or more is when it starts to act up. One min its there and the next its not. Like driving over expansion joints on a bridge. 

Inner CV joint!

5 hours ago, roach2012 said:

After looking at a few more diagrams there there a couple of options but i don't really understand any on them fully. 

 

1 - its back flowing through the vacuum line (which was also full of oil) , kinda posable given that this is a turbo but I'm not sure on how exactly the pressure would get reversed. The positive pressure at the LDP solenoid could explain the electrical plug filling with oil though. There is a good vacuum in the crank case when the engine is running & the oil filler cap is removed, not likely a vacuum pump issue.  

 

2- coming through the carbon canister but how would oil get in a carbon canister ? maybe the purge line ? 

 

Are there any other possibilities ? 

would anyone know what to look for regarding likely failed components ? 

 

Open purge valve with the associated check valves leaking on the way to the intake could push oil vapors back to the evap canister when under boost as it pushes back up the pipes? My only logical guess.  Would normally produce a p0441 code I think? 

16 ago, lewisweller said:

 

Well that's a tricky one. A clunk could be a lot of things. Transition mounts I replaced when my engine was out for head gaskets, they were all cracked and I could here them clunk when shift sometimes but mainly when on off accelerator abruptly. 

Your gonna need to narrow this down a bit. 

When is the clunk? Cruising acceleration braking turning etc also shifting up down? 

Don't rule out suspension as well as mounts and drive train, wheel bearings even brake disc backing plate etc too many things possible really. Do some more driving and get back to us. 

You didn't test the dc voltage present at the input to the resistor? 

6 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

So guys, now i am on the point where i need your help please. My car is still running poor at accelaration. Specially at 2500 / 3000 rpm some kind of hesitation and stumbling. 

This never ending story started with a lot of oil on drivers side area down the air hose where the MAF is sitting. 

According to your advice: always go back to the work which was done and check i am ready to do this. Before i would like to ask, which components could cause the problem and which dont have anything to do with. I hope i dont forget to write down something what i touched.

 

 

The air hose with the MAF was disconnected for cleaning.

The hose going from turbo to intercooler was disconnected for draining the oil inside.

The deverter valve was replaced.

The MAF' s are new.

Air Filters new.

Spark plugs new. 

Coils new.

Replacement of venturi tube.

The tube is sitting tight on the connection on the intake manifold close to firewall and under the intake hose close to throttle body.

Air hose passenger side which is going from turbo to MAF replaced. 

Found a vacuum hose close to the firewall which was disconnected. Put it  together again. Should be a hose which has something to do with the Turbo because my Cayenne S dont have this tube.

Changed the breather valve.

Checked the PCV membrane (can this effect bad running)

 

I spent a lot of time arround this problem. Not that difficult all this things but time consuming because i changed and swaped a  lot to find out whats going on.

 

What i can say: the time when i had out the MAFs for the new BOSCH the car was running very good. But just for some km. After the crap running came back.

What i can say too: before i changed the DV i never hear the turbos kicking in. Now i can hear the typical turbo whistle when kicking in.

What i can say : the boost on my gauge is running up to 0,8 very fast even when i push the pedal just a litte bit. To fast to high imo.

 

So thats the story. 

Finaly The codes which i experience are always the same. 

P0234 turbo overboost condition

P0441 EES incorrect purge flow

 

SORRY FOR THE LONG STORY. My last try before i will give it to porsche for finding the cause

Thomas you must swap the purge valve from the S and clear that code for now. This may be the hesitation at 2500-3500rpm. For the overboost code firstly test your wastegate is opening on both turbos. 

See attached pictures, simple pull this pipe of f the n75 valve and pressurise to 10psi with air gun. You should not hear any air leaking and you should hear he wastegates opening and when you release the air pressure they will be heard shutting. They should work at the same time. 

If the either wastegate is stuck or any air leaking in the pipes you get p0234 overboost code. Do this before wasting money at Porsche. 

2 hours ago, mbagge01 said:

I run evom intakes, and ipd plenum. I have an inspection camera I will use to look around for the leak. Since I have a 5 psi boost drop, wouldn't that suggest a large pipe that is leaking? If I was getting such a knock to drop so much boost, should there not be a code that would come up.

In my experience you would hear a boost leak unless your like my wife and can't hear anything going wrong with a car lol. 

What is is your maf reading at idle should be 6-7g/s and also at 3000rpm should be around 25-26g/s. Also try measuring the voltage at the back of the electrical connector of the maf. Still connected when ignition is on and engine is NOT running. You are looking for exactly 1.1 volts, (note other voltages are there too ie the supply voltage and air temp senor voltage which is built into the Bosch  maf). Any other voltage except 1.1 volts  signals a bad maf sensor according to Porsche tech instructions. 

New Hitachi 94860301505 alternator bought on Amazon UK earlier £385 should receive it next week. Remanufactured junk Delphi Alternator going back to UK eBay seller with full refund. 

So new Alternator, new battery, serviced perfect condition starter motor, new coils, spark plugs, water pump aux belt and pulleys, purge valve, gas cap, n75 valve, changeover valve, new DV's, more vac pipes hoses and check valves than I can count, new head gaskets and all the trimmings, steering rack end Seals, trans filter & oil and diffs oils  what else could possibly go wrong! Ha ha stupid question. ....... could of bought the Q5 3.0t by now 

8 hours ago, mbagge01 said:

So I went ahead and changed out the MAP sensor and diverter solenoid since I had extra ones and did not fix the boost issue. I also connected an air compressor to the wastegate line and at about 15 psi could hear clearly both wastegates opening. One other thing I will add that happened around the same time as the boost issues, I started noticing some coolant dripping somewhere from the front of the engine area onto the floor below, which I would notice when the car is parked. I have had my coolant pipes changed out but I am wondering if I might have a leak around the water pump. Is there any chance that a leak associated with the coolant system could in anyway effect building boost.

Short answer is highly unlikely. I would whip out the intake Y pipe and have a good look at the water pump and the pipes lower down which run to the alternator and some metal pipes connecting the cooling to the rear of the engine etc. 

For me pull the plugs and check each one, (post pictures of each one, labelled for each cylinder) and a compression test wouldn't hurt. If the dme sees any knock misfires etc it could be backing off the boost to protect the engine. Boost actual vs requested Logged will tell the story better! 

Lastly and not to offend, your air filters aren't blocked are they? 

11 hours ago, mbagge01 said:

Lewisweller, how is the wastegate suppose to respond. It is suppose to hold a set level of boost with a mityvac like a diverter valve would hold vacuum with the mityvac or is an air compressor needed to create enough pressure to cause movement in the wastegate. My question is, with a mityvac, should a wastegate hold itself open with enough boost pressure built up or does the pressure just blow off when I pump the mityvac.

The wastegate needs pressure not vacuum to open. Bit confusing but the wastegate spring holds the wastegate shut and the boost pressure directed to the wastegate opens it. 

The way it works is the n75 valve receives a reference boost air pressure into the bottom port which is from the passenger turbo boost side, this is then directed through the n75 valve exiting the right angle port to each wastegate. With the boost pressure acting on the wastegate, at around 5-7psi it will push open against the spring holding it closed and exhaust gases will bypass the turbo compressor blades going straight out the exhaust and limit/reduce boost being built. 

When the dme wants to hold a higher boost and build to the requested boost level it will signal the n75 valve to open rapidly to bleed off the boost pressure that is going to the waste gate thus stopping it from opening and holding the boost building and or maintained. 

Pulse width modulation is used to cycle the n75 valve rapidly so the dme can accurately control the boost in terms of how it builds and how high it can go. 

Alternator is out and stripped, total junk inside, the main bearing has spun inside the front casing overheated and seized the whole thing up as well as cracking it. The pulley then rubbed against the cover plate jamming everything. 

The eBay seller has agreed to "sort this out". Needless to say I'm really tired of taking this thing apart although I got it down to just 60 minutes with 30 minutes to wrestle the thing out the tight space. 

Some interesting info is the new unit is Delphi and the old was Hitachi. Delphi is larger, diameter wise, and a real b**ch to get in and out. Hitachi was a piece of cake in contrast. I've ask the eBay seller to send me what I actually ordered in the first place which is the Hitachi type, despite him saying the Delphi is more reliable, I disagree after striping both units the Hitachi is much better made. 

21 hours ago, mbagge01 said:

Lewisweller, I have not recently cleaned the MAP or MAF sensors but given these items are not more than a year old, I am optimistic that they are not the problem. I could log and see what is going on. I do have am mytivac that also creates pressure and I hooked it up to the wastegate line and I could not get it to hold any pressure when I was pumping it. Should pressure build up and hold with this method or do i need to use a compressor and  try to visualize when the wategates move? 

The way I did it was to set the air compressor regulator to 10psi approx and the using an air gun nozzle attachment just give it a gentle burst of air pressure, you should hear the wastegates open against their spring and as soon as you release the air pressure they will creak/snap shut which is most audible. The whole test should not leak out any air from the piping or the wastegates themselves or you have a leak, any leak will reduce the boost pressure maintainable as the wastegate will be opened early inadvertly by the boost pressure on the discharge side. 

I Checked this turbo PCV vent pipe on the back of the engine no leaks but what was weird is I cant blow through it or suck any air. Its almost as if where it connects to at the turbo (item 6 & 7 on the parts diagram) is closed and somehow opens when required by oil pressure or something?

Anyone know how its works?

I also checked the very last check valve I didn't already check or replace and surprise surprise it is broken! Porsche really did on a number on me with this little pig............

New Audi Q5 3.0t in white was whispering to me in the showroom the other day............the cayenne is on its last warning

Right forget the starter. The ****ING new Alternator is seized tight hence won't crank over. 

Now started striping down the alternator again. I'm gonna be screwed either way because I got two broken alternators and probably a eBay seller who won't want to know about any of it. Imagine the air freight to send me another one. 

On a brighter note I found another check valve which doesn't work!