lewisweller

On 7 September 2016 at 8:40 PM, Mike Markota said:

Sorry for the delay in responding!

 

I did put the car in the service position. It is just so tight. I was also wary of investing too much time in any short cuts in the and having to put  in the service position anyhow. It is only an extra hour of work tops. Presumably much less frustration, as the extra few inches are really helpful. Just grab some m10x1.5x100 (or longer) bolts and its not so bad.

 

The alternator swap is a pain in the ***.. Not difficult, just.. tight quarters and lots and lots of removal of everything around it.  I used a number of resources to help me through it. The instructions (which I will link to) were very good, though I had trouble removing the alternator through the wheel housing as the manual suggested. Instead I removed the intercooler outlet pipe and wiggled it out through the top pretty effortlessly. 

 

 

I used this link:

 

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/875662-2004-955-ctt-alternator-generator-replacement-upgrade.html

 

The author included 2 pdfs of the workshop manuals which I am including here. Also included in that thread is a pdf for putting the car into the service position. The connector part numbers listed there did not work for my car. I have those for sale if anyone wants those. I had to order 948-106-362-01 (the small straight fitting on the alternator) and 948-106-050-01 (the bigger plastic fitting on the alternator, comes with 2 hoses attached) 

 

I followed all the steps with the exception of removing the  radiator hose and removing the alternator through the wheel opening. Instead I left the hose on and snaked the alternator through the top. 

 

The intercooler pipe I mentioned earlier has a twin on the drivers side which is nearly impossible to get to with the front of the car assembled, so I figured it was a good time to replace those seals. The part number for those seals is WHT 001 018 , you'll  want two of those. 

 

While the pressure pipes are out its worth replacing those o-rings as well, 955-110-721-00 (big end) and 955-110-720-00 (small side)

 

I also put in a new water pump because it is literally staring you in the face with nothing else keeping it on when the belt is off and the coolant is drained.

 

Good luck! I hope to never be there again

 

 

 

 

Alternator11.pdf

Alternator12.pdf

Thanks markota for updating and congrats on a successful swap. 

Today I'm driving the car to my warehouse where I will do the work after the weekend, I hope the battery will last the 25 minute journey or I'll be calling a recovery....

A side note, when the  garage did my head gaskets the valves covers had been leaking for a long time, the Oil and middle east sand had caked the alternator totally, i was surprised it worked! This is testament to the water cooling as no air could get near it. I wish the alternator had failed then as the whole engine was out on the floor and the garage removed and totally cleaned the alternator but hey these things are sent to try us. Character building jobs...............lol

23 hours ago, Mike Markota said:

I am on the midst of this replacement right now..I am on my phone now but will reply with some notes once I get back to the garage and my computer. 

How did you, or are you, getting on with the alternator swap my friend?

Did you skip the move to service position step like some have done? I think this just give extra space to wrestle the alternator out and down through the bottom?

Im kinda going to wing it a bit, do the obvious steps and clear the way and see how I get on without the service position.

Any advise appreciated................... 

5 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Here is a nice DIY lesson from pelican.

 

please pay attention to figure 17.

 

is it possible to mess up something with the trigger wheel when changing the gasket and if yes what could

be the result?

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement/40-ENGINE-Valve_Cover_Gasket_Replacement.htm

Thomas looking at you 5degrees timing at idle and 27degrees at 1100 rpm it is correct, also full trims looks OK within +-6%. Trigger wheel I don't think is the problem! 

The Maf flow is LOW 3 g/s, it should be 6g/s at idle. Rev and hold the engine to 3000rpm it should say around 25-27 g/s. If not then something is wrong! Damaged maf sensor, dirty, covered in oil etc?. Also another test is to measure the maf voltage with engine off ignition on, it should be 1.100volts or it is defective. 

Also you must be sure no coils are failing. If your codes don't relate to individual misfires on cylinders then maybe coils fitted at the moment are ok. 

What does the idle feel like? Smooth or rough? Stable of fluctuates? 

17 hours ago, Pkcayenne said:

Hi I have a similar issue I replaced the plugs and one coil which threw an erro for two weeks the cayenne was running great now no power pulling away from lights I did get error for random misfires then two different misfires in cylinders cleared the errors still runs bad undriveable should I replace the coils giving the errors even if the error hasn't returned.    Took the car out this morning ran fine as soon as it heated up it started to cough and sputter on acceleration any ideas ?

Assuming you have check for codes and not found any then why not pull the coils (and plugs) and look for cracks and plug condition?

Heating up then having issues also can be a sensor o2, temp etc or actuator like the n75 or change over valve, but more unlikely. I would focus and eliminate the coils and spark plugs first. 

1 hour ago, bmbratz said:

Hello hope you guys girls are well, I have a steering fault on my Porsche 2003 4.5s  Cayenne now done 108000 miles rendering the car totally useless battery is ok wont turn over nothing. Is it bad  news in terms of  ££'s. I do like my car but it is getting on a bit now. I had the water pipe upgrade would prefer to keep it as cant afford to upgrade. Its has been converted to LPG  7 years ago and has been faultless with an electronic valve saver fitted

.Thanks in advance.

Sorry bit confused with your post, the steering is faulty but you mention the battery is fine but it won't turn over. 

Do you mean the steering fault is stopping the car from starting? Any fault codes or dash warnings?  

Possible a steering angle sensor signal is missing and preventing the car to start but need more info pls. 

I just confirmed with Porsche and the revised part is 94860301505 with some 5 other parts which are screws, pipe fitting and heat shield which is the conversion to the updated alternator. Porsche want 6448dhs which is $1750! OMG. I found a remanufactured one on eBay UK for £139 plus exchange old one, bargain as mother is flying over on Sunday . 

Some advise for fitting would be good, I found a 2 part PDF instruction but the picture or rather diagrams from Porsche manual are terrible to follow. 

Anybody swapped their original alternator and used the revision one with a few changes as per Porsche recommendation?  

I'm hoping this goes smooth.........

On 21 August 2016 at 4:10 AM, Drop the Mic(rometer) said:

Trying to find out where the security system/alarm back-up battery is located (assume not somewhere easy to access).

 

Anybody know where it is located and the type/number of the battery? Guessing they don't last forever and having an odd electrical problem now that could be related... 8 years old in my car.

What problems are you having and why do think there is a back up battery for the security system? First I heard of this. ..... couldn't find any diagram with a battery except under seat and some optional in boot secondary aux battery.  

On 3 September 2016 at 6:37 PM, Pkcayenne said:

Thanks will check one of the pipes going to the maf hasn't fallen off as this was loose when I cleaned the maf some weeks back also will check the y which I read can be split. Smoke test will have to research how to poor mans way weird that I've had the usual workshop error and cracked 1/4 inch rubber pipes near the coolant reservoir.  As you said the black pipes over the infectious will be hard to check. Thanks again on this labor days weekend 

Home made smoker can be made from a clear 2 litre bottle, drill the cap a hole slightly smaller than a cigarette butt, also make a hole in the side of the bottle to fit an air source hose/ gun/ pipe from a air compressor or hand pump etc. 

Before testing Remove the air box pipes both sides and cover with a plastic food bag and duct tape tightly to make pipe ends leak tight. 

Remove the intake Y pipe mounted Map sensor, (pictured above my thumb in the second image) one torx screw T25 I think or a flat blade will do it, using the Map sensor hole place the bottle with a lit cigarette in the cap, put bottle upside down on the map sensor empty hole in the intake. 

Pressurised the bottle with air to force the cigarette to burn and push the smoke into the intake Y pipe and around the system. 

Look for smoke escaping around left and right side piping from turbo to intercooler and all those pesky vac tubes and other small pipes. 

You may need to used more than 1 cigarette to fill with smoke, I used 3 Total to get smoke everywhere it wanted to go, didn't find a leak though. 

As if my ctt didn't already have me well invested....... today the wife's calls to say dash warning say "battery/generator fault". FYI I think this might well be the root cause to my many gremlins like "check tail lights and licence plate lights" when below 13.2 volts and "four wheel drive faulty" and engine hesitation !! 

She drove it straight home and parked it. 

I checked the battery (new in Feb 2016) voltage showed 12.4 volts this is low I know, started up ok (ran very poor) but charging is 12v off load and 11.85v with lights on, so Alternator is caput! When tested before a few weeks ago was 13.72v off load and 13.2 on load.

Unless someone has any other viable possibilities? Heard of main cable fault on earlier models and fuse? 

So assuming all other possibilities get ruled out I'm looking for a re-manufactured alternator, there seems to be loads of revisions and different part number across the 2003-2006 yrs, but I'm sure mine is pn 95560301610 autoatlanta listing  or 948603015 ECS Tuning listing) (190amp option code I8GY as per the specification print out from Porsche for my car).

Some I found are 150amps and others for the earlier years which I think had a different electrical connector fitted?

So question I'm asking is which Bosch of other brand remanufactured part is the right one for my alternator? 

Tech Info Appreciated.  And some R+R DIY advice pls......

1 hour ago, Cterry77 said:

Checked the driveshaft and all is good. Spun the bearing and completely smooth. No play anywhere. Looks like I need to open the TC and check, swap the chain out. That has got to be what it is. It isn't constant but it is annoying when it happens. This is one of those times I really wish I had put that lift in my garage when I bought the house. 30K in tools and I still have to lay on the ground. 

May I suggest considering the cost of a 1litre of Toyota type iv atf fluid you simply drain the TC fluid and have a look at the condition and any particle and also how much you get out, the TC will whine if the fluid is low!! 

This is a 15 minute job if you have a cheap hand fluid pump. 

Looks like new engine oil. I bet someone put their top up oil 1litre bottle in there and it leaked! I had a film of oil in my spare wheel well and some dirt, cleaned it out when I bought the car but no idea what component could put engine oil there.

If cleaned up does it return? If so sell the car quick it must possessed and dripping super natural liquids. 

I can't think of any other possibility and as sherlock says "if you have eliminated the possible then only the improbably remains which must be the truth" 

If a new or used rear CCM is fitted and coded correctly can the existing car key(s) be synchronised to the new/used replacement module by using the Vag method which involves one key in the ignition (on with engine off position) and then the second key in the drivers door lock, you lock the car with the barrel and press the remote to lock and then unlock, repeat and some beeps/horn will sound to indicate the key was recognised by the rear ccm. Swap key fobs and repeat as required. 

It works for touareg, audi other vw etc. 

I have vagcom and suspect my rear ccm to be faulty hence my inquisitive transcript. I've recoded it before with vagcom, being a vw module after all, and it accepted it. It's only the key issue uncertainty which prevents me from changing the rear ccm. 

Appreciate your tech support loren or others. 

Thanks 

With the suspension in high position and locked (hold sector in high position for 20 seconds until dash indicates) you can crawl under enough to give the centre bearing a good shake and tug. It should be solid. What normally happened is the bearing get hot first and wears out the rubber bush. 

If all feels good RE cardan shaft centre bearing then yes move onto the TC transfer case, most likely the chain is rubbing on the case because it is stretched. YouTube video has a guy with a touareg who striped his TC and found only the stretched chain was causing your same symptoms!

Also another guy stripped his and found nothing. He then went back to the cardan shaft, removed it and spun it in his lave, despite finding it in good condition when he checked previously on the car, long story short it was the centre bearing and Bush! 

+1 cardan shaft

Update for this I have just replaced two check valves found to be leaking numbers 13 and 25 on the diagram. 

Cleared the dtc codes (no actual codes but this clears the fuel trim learnt values) went for a quick drive 15km and it was definitely adapting to something. Not conclusive yet if this crack the problem so jury is still out, will put on some more km tomorrow and see what's up. 

17 hours ago, Faceman said:

Just to follow up on my posts.  All the issues were bushing related.  Simple DIY stuff

Lol after 4 yrs updates. Hehe. 

Which bushings was it? 

I've had some low speed steering juddering which I'm pretty sure is inside the servotronic but it so random and does not affect any driving so I ignore the problem when it makes it. 

11 hours ago, pilhaus said:

Phollero and Lewis, thanks for quick answers. Good points and good ideas.

 

Some more information and answers... When the 'turd started to hit the fan' first time for me, I had to crank maybe 2-3 times until it stayed running. Fuel tank level was showing about 1/4 level (range less than 200km). I drove to the gas station and filled it up full. After that, no problems within next 400 kms, car run perfect. Symptoms started again when fuel level reached around that 1/4 level. Actually it went so bad that when I finally got it running, I drove straight to this mechanic who has Durametric... I had to left the car there because after fault code reading, car didn't want to co-operate any more to drive back to home. After all (and behavior how it worked) the mechanic also was willing to try to fill the tank so now the fuel level is about half tank.

 

Battery connections and ground connections have to be checked, that's definitely the first thing where to continue.

Still my engineer mind wants to rule out some of the ideas... And please correct me if my thinking follows the wrong road...

- blocked fuel filter / regulator --> nope, they either work or not, those are mechanical things anyway. Cranking time hasn't increased and when it runs, idling is totally normal. Those were also not changed with the pumps, maybe need to be changed still...

- evap blockage --> my opinion no, if there's a blockage, it stays and doesn't go away by itself

- tank ventilation --> fuel cap has been removed, didn't affect anything

- MAF problem --> hmmm... after all, big maybe... odometer shows around 131tkms, so maybe the MAF's are coming to their end --> at least cheap and worth to try to start without MAF's

- fuel problem is totally bluff (red herring) --> the fuel problem is actually the way what has been followed so far, maybe it's time to open the mind more and think also some other faulty sensors etc. But as a question; if you have e.g. a faulty camshaft sensor, can it work every now and then? Shouldn't it at least give some fault code at some point related to timing etc.?

 

I'll let you know when things go forward on this.

 

Yes a lot of questions, myself and a few other members have been trying to track down our own separate issues which involved fuel, vacuum and sensors. 

Fuel filter and regulator issue are not necessarily an on or off type of possible failure. Definitely don't rule them out. 

This 1/4 tank situation is very interesting and I would definitely open both side and inspect the pipes for twisting, cracks leaks etc. One guy had a cracked pipe which transfers the fuel from right side pump to left side connector before going into the filter. He had similar issues it would run Ok then have issues stall depending on fuel level and which pump(s) was running.  

Another, link below, is for the driver side pump "primary pump", definitely check the new pump is working properly and that all those pesky pipes are not kinked or split. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5432546-04-Touareg-runs-for-about-10-secs-and-dies#/topics/5432546?_k=qjgisg

8 hours ago, pilhaus said:

Hello to all,

 

I was a happy Porsche owner only for couple of days until problems started after buying the car. As the title says, car starts but dies after running a short while. The car has been staying now on a local Porsche mechanic but so far (imo) the original problem has not been found. As the car was attached the first time to Durametric, of course no fault codes were caught. Typical problem (we both thought), fuel pumps in the tank should be changed. So those were replaced with original VDO pumps.

But the problem stayed. Next reasonable action was to change the HPF pump. That was replaced with 1 year guarantee spare part, so it should be okay.

But same sh#t continued. Except the mechanic was able to run the car couple of days ago like 5 kilometers without any problems. Until he tryed to start the car again. This is what I  also experienced when the symptoms started, car needed maybe 2-3 cranks and then it kept running totally fine. So car hasn't stalled even once when driving, only soon after starting.

Lot of writing already (sorry for that, hope someone still keeps on reading) but so far only thing what has been found is that something stops the fuel pumps. Relays for fuel tank pumps have been bypassed, no problem with those. Durametric shows getting fuel pressure until pumps stop so fuel pressure should be okay. Ecu gets the 'running bit' so it doesn't stop the pumps.

 

So finally the question, what next? I'm not willing to spend any more money to change even a single fuse without some guarantee that it will fix the car. I've been digging forums like hell and of course I have found some good guesses of similar cases with bad fuel problem, MAF problem, fuel pressure valve problems, camshaft sensor problems etc. And according to seller, he didn't suffer from this problem. Maybe he lied, maybe not but at least he didn't know anything about cars. Or he was just a freakin' good actor.

 

And final words so far, when I last time drove the car (when it stayed running), it run totally normal. There was no lack of power, it idled smoothly etc.

 

Good ideas are very welcome.

Thanks beforehand.

 

Ps. And whenever the problem is solved (with Your help or not), I'll promise to post the solution here. ;)

Hello and welcome to the cayenne club........

Firstly does sound like fuel related, assuming the NEW pump(s) are not faulty there is also a possibility the many fuel pipes in the tank can be split and leaking on the straight or elbows fitting. Also you do not mention the filter and regulator were replaced? Also suspicious of those two components for this problem. Regulator will increase cranking time, filter can be very clogged and intermittently blog up flow. 

On the touareg forum one guy had a bad earth wire between the ECU and the primary fuel pump left side (driver side if left hand drive). The cayenne will run both pumps on start up then switch to the "primary pump" after 5 seconds unless fuel tank is nearly empty then both pumps run all the time. Whats the fuel level?

Also possible is evap blockage or tank ventilation problem. Try removing fuel cap and start the car, and try starting the car and then remove the fuel cap and see if make any difference. 

Lastly the fuel maybe a total red herring and this is a sensor problem which is not showing any fault codes. Like maf sensor, o2 sensor, crank cam position sensors etc .......the list is long.  

Unplug the the maf's and try starting it. 

17 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Actually i have codes which point to camshaft sensors. The shop changed thm already but the codes stay. Not a good sign. Maybe a timing problem or this solenoid we talked above. 

That is what i mean "everybody can be glad to have a shop which is looking little bit ahead of things" 

mine doesnt. The had the valve cover i

off. Not enough they didnt fix it proper. They know about the camshaft codes but they didnt have the wish to check the solenoid  while working there. 

What codes have you got? 

I did the actuator solenoid Seals today went really well and about 15mins work. I ended buying from local Porsche centre as I couldn't find anything generic in the market. $50 for the pair.

See pictures I put rtv gasket seal maker around the lip and used a 32mm socket to gently tap it into place, it actually goes in real easy. Quick wipe around and all done. 

I also changed the number 13 on parts diagram check valve that plugs into the AOS and two other tubes. One more tube with built in check valve number 25 is on order still. Really excited to get this last part and fingers crossed drive the ctt in top working order as Porsche intended, God knows I put enough time, did so much investigation and spent too much money on this thing now. The wife is questioning my logic in selling the stage 2 tuned 350bhp 2012 Golf R for this bigger boot Cayenne and so am I.

Must keep the faith........must keep the faith....... 

17 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Actually i have codes which point to camshaft sensors. The shop changed thm already but the codes stay. Not a good sign. Maybe a timing problem or this solenoid we talked above. 

That is what i mean "everybody can be glad to have a shop which is looking little bit ahead of things" 

mine doesnt. The had the valve cover i

off. Not enough they didnt fix it proper. They know about the camshaft codes but they didnt have the wish to check the solenoid  while working there. 

What codes have you got? 

I did the actuator solenoid Seals today went really well and about 15mins work. I ended buying from local Porsche centre as I couldn't find anything generic in the market. $50 for the pair.

See pictures I put rtv gasket seal maker around the lip and used a 32mm socket to gently tap it into place, it actually goes in real easy. Quick wipe around and all done. 

I also changed the number 13 on parts diagram check valve that plugs into the AOS and two other tubes. One more tube with built in check valve number 25 is on order still. Really excited to get this last part and fingers crossed drive the ctt in top working order as Porsche intended, God knows I put enough time, did so much investigation and spent too much money on this thing now. The wife is questioning my logic in selling the stage 2 tuned 350bhp 2012 Golf R for this bigger boot Cayenne and so am I.

Must keep the faith........must keep the faith.......

7 hours ago, hahnmgh63 said:

Makes you wonder. Many of these options are more expensive that stock or about the same. Wonder if the .21 versions are any better? As it goes Porsche is changing its part number for revisions but if you check Beru's site they've had the same part number all along? Makes you wonder if they've really improved them much at all as it seems like they're regular failures still happening on every version after 3~5yrs of regular service.

I also see the Spectra Premium label? A Canadian company although I don't know if they actually manufacture them in house. I just don't want to end up with a Chinese product that lasts 6mths or less for a few dollars savings.

http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/spectra_oe_replacement_ignition_coils/SPEIG93434/spectraspic793-.aspx#

I think unless someone is a decent company and the price considerably less than Beru I wouldn't consider it. 

I think the Beru coils are susceptible to heat, if someone's cayenne has an aging cooling system which localised cylinder wall heat spikes and the long service life of plugs these days transferring more heat through the plug into the coil must play a factor. I wonder if a more frequent spark replacement and water pump and thermostat schedule replacement at say 100k km would be of any benefit to cool service life? Economically maybe not! Being stranded somewhere vs more maintenance cost? 

I guess this doesn't really address the issue..... Beru pls make better ignition coils. Lol

1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

Can you test this camshaft adjuster which you see now in front of you? How find out if this is working proper?

Without removal and connecting to 12vdc supply to watch the small oil control valves opening and closing I'm not sure how to be honest. The soleniod coil will have a resistance range to be operational, I will measure that ohms tomorrow and report back what mine are. 

If you had a problem with this soleniod the car wouldn't have proper power through the rev range, it would be flat like no boost feeling, also you would definitely have a code for the valve timing deviation. 

1 hour ago, hahnmgh63 said:

I've got an old 2001 Audi TT 225bhp that I use as a commuter. For that you have the Beru coils or Hitachi. All the forums say don't use the Beru, use the Hitachi coils. I've had a set of the Hitachi coils in there for over 12yrs as the original Beru coils failed after about 3yrs. Just saying, Beru coils have a bad reputation on other forums too, but they manufactured enough versions of the 1.8T motors to use more than one OEM supplier so there is a choice, wish we had a choice.

Well we do in fact have a choice "Huco", weather it's a better choice I have no idea. ECS Tuning is selling this brand for vw Jetta I noticed.. 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/HUCO-Ignition-Coil-Fits-PORSCHE-Cayenne-955-4-5L-2002-2007-/161893121612?nav=SEARCH

Anybody want to be the product tester for us all? 

Thomas I got these oil Seals out today in 5 mins with just a flat blade screw driver. By wedging the flat blade in between the case and the seal and twisting the screw driver (do not lever, it will crack the valve casing) it will deformed the seal enough to pull it out easily. 

I've contacted my seal guy and seeing him tomorrow to check if he has something that will work. If not plan B go to Porsche and buy. 

Word of advise the way I did it WILL cause some scratches on the valve cover case where the seal seats. I will be reinstalling new Seals with a bead of gasket sealer on the seat before I install the new oil seal. I guarantee it won't leak after but still my disclaimer to anyone reading, don't blame me for the scratches caused by using the shortcut screw driver method to avoid removing the both the valve covers! 

11 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

I reset already. Will see if it comes back.

 

lesson for me:. Never drive far away without with big box of tools, code reader, coils etc. Oh what a car. The french man was right today 

 Ha ha too true, I have my little V-checker PRO Vag tool, and two tool boxes with every tool required for a roadside dilemma always in the cayenne!

Audi nothing but a phone charger adaptor cable lol.