lewisweller

38 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Thank you for this info. Hope not to difficult to take out the filter housing. After you go through wheel housing?

tomorrow if there is time will check the driver side down at the wastegate. 

Easy yes. One 10mm bolt at the top and the. Pull up and out towards the engine and out towards you. 

Access via the wheel arc. 

1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

To get access to the small pressure tube i disconnected all this stuff around. Airbox. Tube with the MAF. Tubes which are going to turbo charger cold side outlet. But, this small tube is hidden and i can hardly get my hands to the end where its connected to the Charger housing. No way to change this. Try from up and down and from wheel well. Nothing. 

Thomas remove the air box completely. Then you can have straight through access. It the same place I took the picture from. 

1 hour ago, hahnmgh63 said:

Great discussions here, yes, a plugged or disconnected line should and will cause an quick overboost before the ECU shuts it down with a fault/limp mode. Keep in mind that lines (picture above) 10 and 5 (from each Turbo) go to a Tee before connecting to the N75 valve. So line 10 may be Ok but line 5 may be the problem. This is where my portable Snapon Bk6000 video scope saved me on my Audi.

Not strictly true. Line 10 goes direct to the n75 valve without a T.

Indeed line 5 goes to a T before it goes to each wastegate actuator. The bleed off turbo reference air return pipe (part of part 14 the top vac pipe) from the other n75 port goes back down to the right side and re-enters  the "closed measure air" system. Even if this pipe is broken it won't cause overboost maybe some idle or lean adaption at worse, it's effectively a vacuum leak. 

So to clarify pipe 10 needs to be not blocked and not leaking so the n75 and Ecu can do its job to use the wastegates to control boost smoothly and not overboost. 

You can get overboost code if the map sensor is disconnected also. So don't rule this out as possible component failure or wiring/ plug issue. 

8 minutes ago, ma77hewsu11ivan said:

 

So, the foot pedal assembly of my parking brake pops/snaps loudly every time I use it. The brake holds. But clearly something is not right. The popping sound emanates from the foot pedal assembly. Tried everything I can think of to remedy the issue: new parking brake shoes and hardware, calibrating the tension screw in the rear rotors... Nada. Anyone ever deal with this before or have any ideas? Thanks, Matt

 

 

2009 Cayenne S

160,000mi

Chicago

If the sound comes from the foot pedal assembly could it be related to the mini Gas strut there? 

5 minutes ago, Scott C said:

On my '08 GTS I have a few things happening.  First, when arming the alarm, the hazards flash four times instead o the customary two.  Is this an indication of a malfunction? 

Second, the rear hatch will not fully close when pressing the button on the liftgate.  It will close when pressure is applied to the gate when closing. 

 

Both of these happened after the dealer replaced the driver's door module and re-coded the car. 

 

Any ideas on where to begin?  Other than going back to the dealer.

Go back to the dealer, this is surely a software issue and only the dealer can resolve this really. 

Up until sold the wiper still worked just fine. 

I'm sure of they stop working the new owner will swiftly Whatapps me about it. Lol. 

Got someone coming to see the Audi tomorrow! It's an old classic saying "the first to see will buy" , but in this case first to drive will definitely be hooked. So I may be using a rental for a while until we move to uk. 

58 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

@ Lewis . Thank you for taking care. 

Yes I remember the hose is a little bit hidden and difficult to get to. I will inspect and try from up or underneath. I will take pictures.  Boost pressure reference hose ! Thankx for technical lesson.

Found the picture. 

See the pipe where it is clipped to the alternator and then connects the the turbo, that is part number 10, boost reference. 

You most probably have to remove the turbo inlet plastic pipe part number 3 in the second picture attached and the hose to be able to get access to the clip and replace that boost reference pipe. 

4 hours ago, neoplanet said:

Hi all.  I know this is an old thread but all the problems I have seem to be already discussed in pretty good detail.  This one I am mystified.  I have checked: Pumps & their filters, visibly physically OK; fuse F3, OK; hoses at valves, OK; connectors to pumps seem fully engaged... but with the covers off of the pumps, the blades visible I can see that NEITHER of them spins on cold start.  I say "cold" start, it was the first start of the day even thought it was midday 80 degrees.  I figured they should run.  It seems there are two relays for these pumps in the water box but it seems so unlikely that they both went out.  Does anyone know if there is an interaction between these two pumps in the system... like if one doesn't work, will the other one just not run?  Code just says bank 1.  Any insight would be a big help!

Does the car run poorly on cold start? Like a bit lumpy or pulsing? 

Both of mine didn't work and it made absolutely no difference. To be honest if there is no effect and considering the purpose is for warming up the cats a bit quicker, then I wouldn't worry about it. Unless you want to spend some dollar that is and probably one or both pumps are knackered. Motors just burn out, or get seized or the impellor smashes apart and dumps into the pierberg check valve shown in my first picture. Also codes can mean the air flow from that pump is not sufficient, this could be blockage or simply doesn't run. 

9 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

First of all thank you very much Mike for your detailed post.  

There are 2 lines in direction to the passenger turbo. One to the wastegate, one to the turbo housing . I am talking about line 10 which is measuring the ambient air. This one i squeezed, hope to reduce the air flow to n75 and see some changes.  Weekend i will check this entire line down where its connected. Hope to find a leak

Thomas if line 10 is broken or leaking you will have overboost! I found mine was very brittle hard and cracked where it connects to the turbo at hose clamp 8. 

You said it was ambient air, this is not correct, it is the compressor outlet "boost pressure reference" for the n75 to use to control the boost curve and maximum boost allowed.

This is the only way the boost is controlled to stop peaking over the "requested boost" and thus if it boost too high it will pop the overboost code. 

Bit hard to access it, I repair mine whilst doing the alternator twice. 

I think removing the air box and inner Wheel arc cover plastic will give you some access to get access, then maybe the turbo intake pipe will also need to be removed. 

I took pictures of the this and posted it I'm sure! 

43 minutes ago, Zakowsky said:

Glad to see you are going to still stop by Lewis! I actually just stepped in from the garage, retesting the diverters. Lines are all good but the passenger side one does seem a bit different than the driver’s side. The driver’s side snaps back firmly; the passenger side feels a bit mushy and makes extra noises. Not as clean a snap. The line running from the Tee to the back is one way and seems to hold fine when reversed. I guess that goes to the manifold eventually, I sucked up some nasty tasting crap!

 

I am skipping work and heading to Porsche - they have one in stock and a week to order the other. Just in time before we leave.

 

Edit - Btw I do have a cold air induction with Evo filters, you hear much more with them.

 

Passenger side is a piece of cake to replace, lucky you. Driver side is a bit of a chore. 

Passenger side just unscrew a few torx screw on the wheel arc front part and pull back to see the DV. Only need water pump pliers to change it out. 10 mins and you'll be out for a test drive lol

8 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Here is the video; the exhaust gets loud so it is easier to hear under partial acceleration, and when going up hills and such. Just some samples of the whooshing sound of the turbos, and then the sound of the wastegates after. I marked where the wastegates make a weird sound, but it’s like a wheeze rather than a bark. If anyone knows what makes them sound like this I’d appreciate suggestions. I’m thinking it is the diverter valves not working quite right. Or any other comments on the sounds, thanks. I know it's slow (last one is actually WOT).

 

 

Thomas, listening to your sound again, it must be a pretty big leak to sound like that, if it is the turbo system.

Mike it sounds to me like your leaking boost around the DV itself. Now the only way this happens is the diaphragm is split or the changeover valve positive pressure isnt getting to the DV to hold it shut and stop it opening early and bleeding off your boost back around into the turbo intake. Either that or a boost leak which isn't consistant with your noises really. 

Have you got drop in air filters or intake ? Makes a lot more induction noise than mine did. I could barely hear my intake or turbos at all. It was a unified roar and go type affair. Yours also doesn't boost very high and its sporadic, sometimes boost is looking ok sometime weak. That either the DV's leaking or the wastegates opening before supposed to. 

If this is your original DV's then replace 710p and also the vac pipes from the changeover valve all the way past bank 2 and into the Tee and down each side to the DV's. 

Just in case there is some confusion about the what the changeover valve does here is my quick explanation. 

1. Off throttle ..  .vaccum in manifold change over valve is pulling the DV's open. This is bypassing any boost from the turbo outlet side to stop it from stalling or surging. This reduces turbo lag when you accelerate again. 

2. Part or full throttle the boost pressure inside the manifold is diverted through the changeover valve to each DV to push and help hold closed the DV assisting the spring which is also holding it closed but isn't strong enough to resist the boost alone. (And if you make the spring too strong the vaccum can't open the DV when you lift of the throttle..  Makes sense init). 

The fact you have weird boost, low sometimes tells me the diaphragm is split on one or more or the delivery of the changeover valve pressure is not getting to the DV (like a broken vac pipe or changeover valve fault. 

When I bought my ctt it had 0.6bar, replaced both DV's and got 0.8bar +. Infact one was split one was fine. 

Just to close this AC issue out. Today was sitting stationary in a que waiting for vehicle test and it was 50oC, the AC was struggling but still I wasn't sweating so not so bad. The rear was warm air mostly so had just the front on which was cool just about enough. When driving the air flow helps and it's fine for this peak summer heat midday with full sun on a big front screen and dash. 

Conclusion is cayenne can't fully cope with 50oC but it tries it's best if in good working condition. 

10 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

I wish you good luck with your car transactions . Hope for more luck and happiness in the future.

Thanks Thomas. Maybe I'll visit you in Germany when I come to Europe with the family. 

1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

 

 

How you feel now? 

The german you mention yesterday?

Great. Fixed the clunk at the front, found some loose suspension bolts and the loose steering column bolt. Car feels great and is clean as a whistle. Went through test today just fine, tomorrow transfer to new owner and then concentrate on selling the Audi. !!!!

Sold sold sold. 

35,000dhs 

Tighten the bolt today. Was infact a normal hex bolt and not a Etorx. 

So no more play in the steering it's loverly and tight. 

Also had a knocking noise and found the lower ball joint nut wasn't tight and also the lower control arm bolts were not tight enough either!!! Now its lovely over the humps. 

2 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Could the boost sensor fail? Any chance to  test this small device?

 

same with the N75 valve ( i have used your pic lewis) . I changed it one year ago but who knows. 

 

Possible but unlikely the map sensor is faulty. No harm in cleaning it with some carbon cleaner. 

The n75 valve is very reliable and I doubt a new one is faulty. 

Hard to understand which noises are what really. 

Make another video with the camera on the dials so we can see the boost speed gear and rpm. This help to understand better. Also make the video long maybe from 2nd gear hard acceleration up to 5th gear. Autobahn is nice..........lol

52 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

 

I hope you can close the deal for a reasonable price.

 

which service you are using for video upload?

Use a video compress app and keep it less than 55mb

47 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Maybe someone has idea by listening to the noise / whistle.

 

 

Make a recording! 

Tomorrow I'm meeting a German who is interested in the car, I hope it goes well. 36,500dhs. 

8 minutes ago, ma77hewsu11ivan said:

No pics, but it's pretty easy to spot. A little tricky to reach. From underneath the vehicle's driver's side, with the trans shield removed, you can see where the column attaches to the steering gear by a single E14 torx (M10x35). By turning the wheel slightly to the passenger side I was able to reach the bolt with an extended socket wrench. If you pull up the parts diagram from the free PET pdf you'll see what I'm talking about. PMing you now.


2009 Cayenne S
160,000mi
Chicago

Top man thanks 

1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

Picture is not good. Take out the Y - pipe checking for cracks. Looks good but ..... oil inside

Oil normal. 

On 13/06/2017 at 2:20 AM, ma77hewsu11ivan said:

SOLVED
Just wanted to inform anyone having issues with play in their steering that my problem was solved by simply tightening the etorx bolt that attaches the steering shaft to the rack. Was quite loose. Easily accessible from underneath the car. Couple turns of the extended socket wrench with an e14 torx and she’s good as new.




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Have you got any pictures of this? 

I have this annoying play in the steering since they dropped the engine  the seal convertor. 

Thanks 

6 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Check this

 

https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/search.html?damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true&makeModelVariant1.makeId=20100&makeModelVariant1.modelId=18&maxFirstRegistrationDate=2006-12-31&maxPowerAsArray=PS&minFirstRegistrationDate=2004-01-01&minPowerAsArray=402&minPowerAsArray=PS&scopeId=C

I should export this b * tch to Germany and make a killing. I also notice most have above 200,000km some above 300,000km! Here in uae if car above 200,000km the price is super low. 

19 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Don't know what's your mileage and year but I checked now the rates in Germany.  Starting from 8800 until 18.900 euro for model 2005 / 2006

 

2006 with 129,000 km full option