lewisweller

2 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Before weekend I would like to ask professional advise. My technical knowledge is limited but I have the strong will to fix the problem.

Because the current overboost problem appeared after I started the search for my oil and hesitation problem I am going back to every part I have touched in the last 12 month. For this reason I would like to ask what will be the result of the turbo vent line has a leak. What will happen? Will it effect idle? Running conditions in general? Boost? I appreciate your help.

 

I am talking about 14 and 15. Please don't care about the coloured section.

 

Thank you very much

Thomas if 14 or 15 is leaking I would expect the maf reading from the drivers side bank 2 to be wrong but testing this won't be straight forward.

Assuming the check valve 13 is working well (I think you replaced it not long ago) then under boost you won't have any pressure loss but you could have extra air being sucked into the driver side turbo which hasn't been metered by the maf sensor and this could cause overboost in theory. Normally over boost is the wastegates sticking or leaking and they simply don't released the boost inside the turbo at the right time to stop overboost. 

This small amount of sucked air from 14 or 15 pipes before the turbo isn't going to make a huge difference to the car under acceleration.  I also bet the idle would be unchanged in this circumstance or the Ecu would adjust and you couldn't tell either way, maf sensor readings aren't used for idle really. 

The only other thing that would pop that code is a faulty MAP sensor or the wiring to it! You had some wiring go bad already for the purge valve nearby. Is it possible this is the issue? 

4 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

38.000 Dhs... Something around 9500 EUR!? Isn't this a little bit low for all the features your car has?

 

The car market here is very bad, people like newer cars and not so much older models. Also the cost of parts and repairs is a factor for the second hand market. The latest offer is 30,000dhs. 

3 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

I was thinking of posting this in your over-boost thread Thomas, but it is a pretty specific question for boost issues in general. I happened to meet someone with a lot of experience with such problems on the Cayenne yesterday; he checked out how mine ran and strongly suggested new diverter valves. I know this was the suggestion from Lewis way back at the start of all this, and it really makes sense now. My rapid loss of boost and the weird sound from the wastegates opening a bit too early just says the springs in the diverters are shot. And in your case maybe they aren’t opening fast enough (?).

 

Any I was wondering which diverters people here were using? Many people seem to say just get the stock ones rather than aftermarket, which sometimes need to be oiled and offer no real gain. The stock Porsche part is 95511071001, but that seems to just be a Bosch 710P, which some people use, or some people use a 710N which has a stiffer spring. Is there a VW or Audi part number that can substitute? I don’t know if I can get a Bosch number here in town. Thanks.

Use the 710P it's the revised part and works well. 

So after a year this camera did stick again and wouldn't move out and in. 

Pulled of the trim panel, very easy just insert flat blade screw driver in the side hole and push the clip inwards and pull cover out gently. Repeat for other side and then gently pry out the Cover. 

Unplugged connectors for power and video signal. 

Unbolted the camera, removed back cover which broke cos it's brittle. 

Exposed the motor gear shaft and two work drive gears which connect to the barrels which drive the camera in and out. Pretty simple. 

The cog on the motor was jammed a bit and just some wiggling freed it up. Sprayed and cleaned all gears with solvent spray and then applied a small amount of Vaseline (I had nothing else to hand). Recommend a silicon based grease would be better. You really don't need hardly any to make it run just fine. 

All back together piece of cake. 

Won't let me add anymore pictures error 200????!!! 

The car is advertised, had an offer of 28,000dhs but holding out for more like 38,000 dhs

Lol the car is filthy, that's a job for later on. 

1 hour ago, Zakowsky said:

To give a post-op wrap up, the new pump is in, checked the torque on the bolts 5 times, no leaks as of yet and seems fine. Didn’t do the vacuum re-fill of coolant; when I drained it I siphoned out the expansion tank, and then just unbolted the pump and caught the coolant in a pan as it spilled out. Just refilled through the expansion tank, ran it for a while then added another liter. It’s holding at full and engine temp is steady where it should be.

 

There was so much coolant everywhere up front I lightly pressure washed the front of the engine. Figured the water might damage the pulley bearings, but it is better than coolant drying there. Engine squealed once when I started it right after, but hasn’t since.

 

Finally had the nerve to clean the throttle body, very careful not to move the plate, but got most of the gunk off. Putting a new throttle body to intake gasket was a waste of money, mine was perfectly fine. But for me the throttle body to Y-pipe o-ring was the “exciting” part, the new one made the Y-pipe much more snug fitting. Virtually no dip in speed when coming to idle.

 

Drove for an hour or so, engine is as smooth as I could want. Didn’t wind it out yet because I haven’t got a torque wrench on the pulley bolts, no room with the one I have, just did it by feel. But my mileage seems better after the cleaning, 10l/100km at 100 kph, and 9l/100 kph at 90 kph on a run I usually test it on, where I used to get 11l/100km at 100 kph. Not that anyone can drive that slow for an extended period of time.

 

I tried to free up that sticking one way valve but was only partially successful. It needs to be angled down to close properly when it should. Still need to look into that.

 

So thanks for all the help, so far this has worked out well. Now to get that **** rear wiper arm off!

 

All sorted then Mike welldone.

Come to think about it the idle Dip was better on the short drive I had yesterday after replacing oring on Y pipe. Maybe it helped or maybe my imagination. Didn't Fix the hesitation! 

I've clean the throttle body twice and I opened the butterfly by hand carefully to clean. And if you remember is even stripped it down and fully cleaned it inside the electric dc motor and potentiometers. Who ever said the throttle won't match the engine or Ecu after is a scare monger. You don't even need to do the alignment with the software! Do the key on and throttle to the floor for 60 seconds and then key off, then key on and leave for 2 mins will relearn the throttle. Then key off and back on and start the car. Let it idle for 5 mins and go for a normal drive.  

2 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

OK, now I am really not sure it is the pump. This is the spray pattern...could it be a leaking gasket (blue arrow)? The gasket looks fine but there is faint pink on it that you wouldn't expect. Two of the bolts were not tight. Or a leaking tube or the upper rad hose (red)? The bolt has more spray on the bottom than on the top, so probably it is going up rather than down.

 

 

Pump looks fine on this side:

 

 

This side looks fine:

 

 

And on this side it is hard to tell:

 

 

Has anyone seen a pump looking like this before? Could it be spraying from the gasket, hitting the engine at that big patch in the first shot, and then splashing back on the pump?

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gasket leak Mike. 

Maybe the loose bolts, maybe a bad surface fit. 

Best to fit all new and torque correctly. Never need to worry about that part again. 

New pump face looks normal. 

Pulley got any cracks or signs of damage around the mating face and bolt holes? Mine exploded when the garage did the head gaskets work and refitted it, probably over tighten it and cracked it. A few people including pelican's DIY say to replace the pulley as a matter of course. 

Lower arm and tie rod end replacement done. 

Ac is so cold it can cope with 44oC on speed 2 amazing! I'm so glad I spent a year suffering in the heat with this POS before finding the issue and fixing it. 

Now the AC is fixed and on low speed the check tail light and four wheel drive warnings don't even pop up on dash once you have driven it for a few mins and the battery is topped up after the cranking juice used, is replaced. 

So last job is to fix the rear camera which won't pop out. Oh and clean it again and Polish out the two new marks on the freshly painted door. Mo fo's here are so careless with opening their **** door on your car. Bunch of C**ts. 

Right that's my rant over for the day. 

12 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

You said yours went back to 500 - so that is your normal idle speed Lewis? That seems low, mine is at 580 which is I believe normal. Anyway, mine has kicked up the idle only a few times but it has. It was “hot” out (in Canadian terms, so above 30C!) and the air conditioner was on max, at idle and using a lot of accessories. It jumped up to around 1100 and stayed there no matter what I did. Seemed like a normal response to increased load so never thought about it.

Changed that Y pipe o-ring with the closest they had ID 88mm 4mm thick NBR as opposed to 87mm which is original. 

Didn't really make any difference. 

7 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks Thomas. I’ve never taken off the manifold, or even the throttle body. The main reason being I’ve read some stories saying if you move the throttle plate during this process your car won’t start and has to be taken to Porsche to have the throttle matched up with the engine again, and Durametrics can’t help you. But I did buy a throttle body to intake gasket, so I am going to have to try this time. There is an intake manifold gasket in stock in town, so if the pump goes OK I will give the throttle and intake a try. What are the chances of re-using the 100$ intake gasket? I would like to replace that line too, and would have to take it off to get to it. I considered doing the thermostat, but mine has always been rock solid in the middle so I figured don’t mess with it.

 

My parts came in early so starting tonight. Has anyone ever ordered an OEM Porsche pump? Mine looks kind of junky in my opinion. Is it normal to have scoring on the gasket face surface like this on a $400 pump? It doesn’t look like it was ground down and polished very well. Or is this to grip the gasket?

 

 

 

OK, time to drain the coolant and get started.

 

 

Mike have you already started ?

7 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Maybe I should check the boot pressure solenoid? That's the part sitting at the firewall I believe

Lewis you had a eye on this?

 

This is a boost pressure regulator or wastegate controller more accurately. Ours is at the front of engine next to the throttle body left side. 

The one at the back of the engine is for the Divertor valves to release pressure from the turbos when you lift off the throttle and stop them from slowing down also called "turbo stall" or "turbo surging". 

Thomas did you ever get a compressed air source and simply pressurise the wastegates to 15psi and listen for leaks? I'm sure your wastegates are leaking and giving you overboost. 

27 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

You should give it a try. Like you say. 2 Dollars only.

Your AC .,.... What does it mean idle come up to 750 and come back to 500?

 

Idle increasing the moment when you switch on the AC?

 

Well not in sequence with the AC. The AC is always on but the idle I saw it at 500 then I saw it increase. I revved the engine but it didnt go back to 500. If I select Drive or reverse gear it will drop to 500 again. 

Normally it would only be at 500 rpm regardless of anything else. 

7 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

@Zakowsky thank you mike.

 

the throttle body gasket is also new :-)

the plastic fitting down to the y pipe i replaced with a pure blue pressure hose. I was cutting out the sensitive connection and replaced it. Very easy to install and very easy to get off. See blue line in the last picture.

 

by the way, the tube is going to the firewall and is connected in the same way to the intake manifold. This connection i replaced in the same way as you maybe can see in picture no. 8.

 

 

The intake Y pipe oring number 9 is probably one of the only orings or seals/ gaskets I never have replaced. Tomorrow I'm going to whip it out and take it to my trusty oring and seal shop to get a new one for a dollar or two. This may sort the idle Dip which never seems to be solvable. Also to note the idle Dip will trigger the "check tail light" fault and also almost in tandem the "four wheel drive faulty"  warning. 

All this is voltage dipping down I know but I've never been able to find why. New alternator 3 new batteries and all cables and items checked and tight. 

I figure if I can stop the idle Dip and put the battery charger on it to keep it topped up fully I can stop the warnings coming up and sell it. 

Also I now notice since the AC compressor control valve has been replaced the idle will come up to 750 like its being commanded and then can go back to 500rpm. 

Is the increase normal? I can't ever remember it increased the idle speed once warm at all. 

10 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Something else I would like to learn. When the high boost at 0.8 bar is built?

When I am accelerating from very low rpm ? Only when throttle completely open? 

 

Pressure lines: does it matter how long they are? I the original was let's say 30 cm. My replacement line is now 40 cm. Does it change anything within the entire boost system!?

Turbo Wastegates must be leaking. 

The boost on mine is peaking around 3500 up to 5500 rpm. 

The length of a vacuum pipe wouldn't make any real difference. 

8 hours ago, TomBelgium said:

I know, i meant that it is easy for Porsche to replace the cilinder walls in their new engines during the building process. 

If you want to repair your existing problem (forever) with better walls and pistons prices are about 5 to 6k euros. But that excludes removing and rebuilding the block in the car. It makes me think completely different about the Porsche brand then a month ago before i knew all this. So sad for such a financial healty brand...

I know the feelings your having, I was chuffed to get a Porsche and had high hopes of fun and reliable motoring with my family. My son loves it because it's big and high up, calls it the monster truck. Little does he know the reason we hardly have used it is because it's always broke. And I'm broke too. 

The lucky few that have little to no problems with their cayenne will be true to the brand, some will be in denial that it's not quite what they expected and the rest of us have the reality that we got screwed with substandard. 

If I listed what I have gone through and spent since March 2016 I and anybody reading would be horrified. 

Don't mean to ask a silly question or offend but when the car is locked the handle outside needs to pulled twice to unlock and open. This is normal for kessy cars. Also if your car is set to auto lock when driving above 15km/h or what ever it is set at, when you stop you must pull the inside door handle twice to open the door. 

I'm not sure if this relates to your issue but thought it was prudent to state the obvious incase it was misunderstood. 

The kessy module can play up and the result is the handles don't work well on command or don't work at all. Read the thread about this and the fixes possible. 

1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

Please would somebody explain me the routing of of the pressure lines close to the firewall. 

 

Line 3 & 14 are connected with each other. Coming from the calve. But line 14 has a dead end. Can somebody explain the reason? Thank you

It is a capped off point to connect vacuum tester pump. If you are doing checking for leaks this is where to connect. 

1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

Whitout driving? 40 degrees?

It's 40 degrees at 10am. At 1pm air temp reads 52 degrees. The car does very well at holding the coolant temp at 80 degrees. 

If you want to check the fluid you will have to do it first thing in the morning after being left over night to be cooler than 40 degrees. 

3 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

So tools bought, oil bought.

Try to open the fill plug. No way. I need a lift to do it. From terrain level no chance.

Second reason I should not have drive the car. It stay there for 2 hours after. Trans oil temp still 69 degrees. To much for this process.

 

Lol move car to middle east, check oil level midday, bang on 40oc. Ha ha ha

18 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Sorry. Maybe i got it wrong. My english :-(

Your English was good Thomas,  Plastic impellor is good, metal impellor is bad. You and Nerdtalker are saying the same thing, don't use a metal one. Porsche oem is plastic in case anyone was wondering. 

16 hours ago, TomBelgium said:

Update, didn't want to spend more time on fixing the pump so I bought a replacement for 900 bucks. Porsche told me they already replaced it a couple of years ago. I tried to explain that it is not common for a quality car to have 3 different HPFP in just 100k kilometers but they didn't agree. My former daily was a "boring" Skoda Superb diesel, I only had to do regular maintenance, and it had even more kms on the clock than the Cayenne. I am selling my Cayenne now because I also heard about the cylinder issues. My dealer reassured me that only the pre facelift 4.5's had cylinder issues. But I spoke around 10 cayenne S 957 owners and they all had the cylinder issue. Also mine had the engine replaced at 40k kms, right now I am just waiting for it to break again. 
I also drove a BMW 850i V12, I always heard people telling about that they know somebody (friend of a friend of a friends cousin etc.) who had an 850i and it should be rubbish. It never let me down, not once I had anything unusual to repair. But with the Porsches, just open a topic in an owners club or on any car forum and you get dozens of owners who have or had an engine replaced, cylinder issues, bad bearing in the engine etc. It was my first Porsche and I didn't expected it to be cheap or whatsoever, I just expected it to be reliable but they just are not. I really hope that Porsche does an effort to bring the quality back like it was in the 80s and 90s. 

Welcome to the porsche cayenne. Always full of surprises .......not all of them good ones. 

You'll find most people have a soft spot for their Porsche where character, heritage and performance out weighs the breakdowns, major failures and cost. 

I'm at the end of my rope and can't wait to sell. 

Bring on the backlash of the purists! Haha

6 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Hah! I was getting ready to upload a picture of the flex disc to show that it wasn't cracked, and then looking closely at the picture - I saw cracks! So you were correct Thomas, they can be hard to see. I shot this with just a cell phone; I will take more with my real camera later.

 

 

I still think it is not the cause of the vibrations, but for sure I will replace it before it is! Why I say that is I replaced the hose/zip tie support system, and now the vibration is gone, on the test drive anyway. Couple of things to note. When I took the hose sections out they were definitely softer than when they went in. But rather than just replacing them and have the same thing happen down the road, I modified the design a bit. I reused the old large hose sections (5/8") and inserted smaller hose sections inside 4 of the 8. This makes a very solid brace for the shaft bearing, but is still compressible enough to get it in there.

 

 

Another but - while doing this I also checked the bearing itself again, and it does now seem to be wearing, there is a bit of play in it. Repacked it with grease, although that usually just quiets them, and won't actually help with the wear.

 

So where was the vibration from - the bearing, the support, or the flex disc? Easy answer is to replace them all. But I am guessing the support; greasing the bearing should not make a difference with these kind of forces, and if it was the cracks in the flex disc, it wouldn't go away with the new mount.

 

Anyway water pump should come in next week and I'll be back to the regularly scheduled thread.

It was the centre bearing support for sure, "roaring noise in the middle of the car" was accurately described. That flex disc isn't going to show itself just yet. 

I would prep for a while shaft and new flex disc replacement in about 10,000 miles. 

Happy motoring 

On 26/07/2017 at 0:55 AM, Zakowsky said:

Well good the the A/C is working, that's a major selling issue solved. If it is not affecting how it drives maybe if you just inform a new buyer of the ball joint being ripped up. Probably need to fix the air bag though. But it's sounding close to sellable; and don't forget it looks great, so when people idle around in the nice cool leather seats someone might overlook the few more repairs that are needed. As soon as they sort the lug nuts out maybe run an ad and see how the market is.

Here in uae they have a Mickey mouse car test which takes about 5 mins, unfortunately they will notice the boot of the ball joints on both items are split and will flag this as a fail. If the car was a cut and shut, crabbing down the road or total rotten through the chassis but with a nice bondo covering and rattle can spray attack, it would pass just fine lol. 

Priced up the lower arm, tie rod end and 4 new bolts 650dhs about 150 dollars. So looks like I'm spending again. ........

Well the leaking steering rack is Fixed today. 

Top tip if you got the car up off the wheels don't steer the wheels, for some stupid reason the rack just pissed out the fluid both ends of the rack. First car I ever worked on that you can't move the steering manually at all if the engine is not running. 

All the fluid had leaked out and I was dreading another big Fix like rack removal and new seals or second hand replacement. 

Bought new seal for the passenger end which I Fixed before, whipped that out and found nothing wrong with it but fixed new one anyway. Reassembled and filled with 1 litres Pensotin CH11s. Leaving car on lift started engine and did lock to lock to bleed out air. Checked both ends and no leaks. 

Strange event! 

Some more bad news, the garage who did the convertor seal lost and then apparently found again my locking Wheel nut adaptor in fact put one that wasnt for my Wheel nut. So now I can't take the wheels off. And the passenger side bottom ball joint and tie rod end ball joint are both totally mangled. They weren't in bad shape prior to convertor seal! A** holes. 

Tie rod end is cheap enough but to buy the lower arm is expensive. And need to buy for normal Wheel bolts and throw away the locking ones as I don't have a adaptor now. 

Oh and just to put the nail in the coffin the front passenger strut air bag is leaking, it is actually visably chafed. After parking for just 5 mins its already dropped. 

Camera not popping out still. 

A long list and all have to be sorted before sale if I'm to get a decent price. 

On the bright side AC is lovely and cool. 

3 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks, and after looking it over I agree, should be relatively easy. I don't have the play in the pulley that others have but everything else says pump.

 

But of course things never go easy. After picking up my E-Torx sockets I drove out to get my new pump; I had ordered a Porsche unit from a non-Porsche dealer here who is usually pretty good at getting OEM parts (cheaper than the dealer), but when I got there the pulley was right, but the pump was a GRAF with a steel impeller, priced at 370$ CAN. Other than the fact that it goes for 59$ on Pelican, this puts me back a week now waiting for one from Porsche here. But the great part is on the drive I noticed I now have a vibration in what seems like the driveshaft. Lewis, you just went through this I think? It is between 86 and 98 kph, and feels central. No shaking or anything odd with the wheels or steering when it is happening. Flex plate looks fine, and I know I have the “aftermarket” shaft support, but it is exactly as it was when installed, and the vibration feels nothing like when the OEM support bearing went, so I don’t want to jump to any conclusions. I thought I had been feeling an ever so slight vibration over the past few weeks at this speed, and the last time I drove it I took it down a dirt road (getting the coolant to leak so I could see it better). This is the first time I’ve driven it since then and it is much worse now. The only other thing I’ve noticed is there are occasionally small clunking sounds from the front end when backing out of parking spots with the 22”.

 

It seems there are many different reasons for vibrations on the 955; I’ve checked the wheel bearing by torqueing on the wheel while raised and they seem OK. Tomorrow I was going to put my other wheels on and see if it is still there, but does anything else come to mind? Didn’t you calibrate your ride height and it helped?

 

 

I would have a look at the flex disc for cracks or chunks missing. Also your home made centre bearing support, maybe something moved. 

I found if the ride height isn't right there can feel like vibrations resonance through the car. But assuming it's not dragging around out of whack I wouldn't think this is your issue. 

Changing Wheels will narrow the list down. 

Front clunk's can be a antiroll bar bushes, top or bottom arms,  even brake caliper/pad movements. 

Good luck. 

2 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

OK, so using my trusty GoPro on a stick, I checked out the area. The pulley isn’t really that loose, and from above it looked fine, but looking between the water pump pulley and the main balancer pulley below it there was crusted coolant for sure. This is between the two:

 

 

And I managed I think to get a shot behind the water pump pulley, these are the bolts holding it on? Some look OK but some have white stuff on them and you can see where it might be spray on the engine around it.

 

 

So ordering a new water pump tomorrow - looks like a tight fit on everything (as usual) in there.

Its not too bad actually compared to some jobs. Don't forget the new pulley!