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About MikeOH

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  • From
    chino hills, california, USA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    '02 996TT
    '13 BMW 535i
    '96 Camaro Z28
    '95 Chrysler LeBaron Convertible
    '59 MGA
  • Former cars
    '73 DeTomaso Pantera L
  1. I searched for newer relevant threads, so apologies in advance if this should be elsewhere... I just finished replacing the 4-stalk assembly in my '02 996TT so I thought I'd post a few comments about my experience. Bought the Intermotor (Standard Motor Products) replacement from RockAuto; P/N: CBS2235 $201.79 plus tax/shipping. Seemed to be the cheapest I could find on-line; no guarantees that it's the lowest, YMMV, yadda, yadda. Interesting thing is, it turned out to be a GENUINE Porsche part!! Had a Porsche quality control sticker with the Porsche P/N: 99661321910EWC. It would appear that Intermotor supplies Porsche. Now, don't blame me if you order from RockAuto and it doesn't have the sticker!! I am just relating what I received:) Watched this Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hux78ZoPcAI WATCH the video, or something equivalent, before starting this project. You do NOT want to figure this out on your own! Time: Took me about 1.5 hours to disassemble and 2 hours reassemble=3.5 hours total. I worked very slowly and carefully having never done this before. I'd bet I could do this job completely in just over 1 hour next time (hope there isn't!!) Tools: LONG T30 torx to remove airbag. A short socket type T30 will NOT work; the torx head screws are recessed over an inch. Small standard blade to remove plugs covering airbag torx screw holes, airbag connector and turn signal wire harness connector. Small Phillips to remove the two screws holding the steering column cover in place. Medium Phillips to remove front 4 screws holding the front bezel and 2 screws holding the 'clock spring' in place. Tape for holding the 'clock spring' together while it's removed. 8mm socket or nutdriver for the turn signal holding clamp. Difficulties encountered: Engaging the torx tool into the recessed torx heads is a *****! Turn the wheel so the access hole is BELOW the instrument panel. The video shows the steering wheel in the straight ahead position when doing this....did NOT work for me! YMMV. Again you need a LONG torx tool or you can't reach the screw head. You can't use an extension as a socket is too big to fit in the hole. Seems obvious, but make sure you are turning the correct direction as you are FACING forward and the screws are are on the OPPOSITE side of the steering wheel. Mine were pretty tight so BE SURE which way you are turning. Disconnecting the two turn signal wire harness connectors. You need to 'pop' them out of the plastic retaining clips by carefully using a small screwdriver to 'open' the clips and ease them out. The smaller connector unplugs without trouble but the larger one has a 'dimple' on the plug half of the connector that engages in a hole on the shell half. Use a small screwdriver to VERY carefully pry up the connector shell so the the 'dimple' disengages while simultaneously pulling apart the connectors; three hands would help, but it's really not as hard as my description sounds:) The real point is that you can't just pull the larger connector apart like you can the smaller one. Don't just pull harder! The plastic part that holds the those wire harness connectors also holds part of the wiring harness as well as other connectors. It fits over the top of the steering column and, here's the important part, ENGAGES in SLOTS on the BOTTOM half of the steering column cover. When reassembling, start with the BOTTOM steering column cover and make sure its slots engage in the multiple tabs (four, IIRC) on the 'plastic part' described above. The right hand side only has a single tab to engage, but it's a bit tricky to line everything up and hold it in place while fitting the TOP half of the steering column cover. The four screws that hold the front bezel are self tapping into the new turn signal assembly. That is, the new assembly has holes but they are NOT threaded. You need to carefully use one of the screws to tap the holes. This is best done on the bench before installing into the car. Naturally, I did not notice before I already had everything back in place. It takes quite a bit of force and it's lucky I didn't slip with the screwdriver and damage something. Thread the holes BEFORE you reassemble! Despite the video, I waited until the steering column cover was screwed back together BEFORE putting the soft rubber 'plugs' that fit over the control stalks into place. Having them half in while trying to put the steering column together complicates the process. Much easier after that is done. While this isn't a difficult job, it is one that requires some patience and care (plenty of plastic parts to break if you try to force anything). You don't need engine rebuilding skill, but first timers should NOT make this their first automotive DIY effort :) At a little over $200, all in, I suspect I saved a BUNDLE over even an independent mechanic, let alone the stealership! Good luck!
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