Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

bekks

Members
  • Posts

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bekks

  1. I believe in a 2009, you should have the updated style servo that was apparently more reliable. They are probably different part numbers than I used. I did find that the VW ones were exactly the same part number and a little cheaper. I also recall that the number and position of servos wasn't always consistent with the documentation.
  2. Hmmm... Didn't realize the foot brake pedal was on that side. I came across a couple people suggesting sliding the plate down, but I can't offer any comments on it.
  3. Now that you say that Heidi, it makes sense. A, B, and C are not possible to remove from the bottom (as far as I know). But I'm pretty confident that D is the one you want. I had what sounds like the same symptoms as you - no temperature control on the driver's side - and replacing D fixed the problem. You need to remove E first to get it out of the way. It is a terrible job, but I got D out without removing the dash. A tiny ratchet with the right Torx bit was an absolute necessity. Also, I think I used a right angle screw driver a bit too (like this https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NY8OQU?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_7qb2a118up_e). Removing the dash is a pretty big job, I would recommend you try to suffer through the pain of doing it upside down. I disconnected the KESSY (I think that's what it's called) module and it didn't seem to cause any problems, but I recall that people warned not to disconnect it. It is the box positioned right in front of the servo. I've taken out E on a couple Cayennes and I can do it in less than 30 minutes. I would say that D will take a couple hours plus frustration breaks.
  4. It might be helpful to get an overall photo - it was tough to tell which way was up. That said, I don't think any of those are your problem, so it's probably on the other side. The third one seems that it may not be working great, but it is at least working. The diagram on the first post of this thread shows the left hand arrangement for a LHD; the mixing servo is "D". Maybe check out the right hand side and see if it looks similar to that diagram.
  5. I would dive into it a bit and you should be able to get an idea. Take the bottom kick panels off both sides and take a look underneath with a flashlight. I'd leave the battery connected and once you have the servo out, you can plug in the wiring again and adjust the temperature, then see if the arm will move. Also, I did not need to do any adjustments to put them in service position. Just pulled it out and then moved the flap with my finger so it was in the same position as the new arm I was installing.
  6. Heidi, I believe you are having problems with your mixing servo. If you can get air to blow at all your vents, but it's just the temperature won't change, then it is your mixing one. On a LHD, this is the second from the bottom on the left side and can be replaced from underneath, although it's not fun.
  7. I intend to continue driving mine with the tick until it fails (I still think it might go a long time). I will update this thread if anything changes.
  8. Bringing up this thread again. I have a new to me '05 Cayenne S with 200,000 km on it. It is noticeably "ticking" away. I don't have any maintenance history, but it "looks" well cared for. My questions is, has anyone ever NOT replaced the engine? Mine is not consuming oil, I notice no driveability issues. It's just noisy. The cost of an engine replacement will be well over the price I paid for the vehicle, so I intend to keep driving it. Has anyone had a major failure after their ticking started?
  9. Since removing the left footwell and temperature mixing actuators, and opening them up and trying to push them around a bit for better engagement, the temperature mixing one is still acting up, so I will be replacing it. Good to know that the later model years are improved and compatible.
  10. Bringing up an old thread as I think I may have something to offer. I've been searching for info on this problem for the past week and currently have my dash ripped apart - which is amazingly simpler than I expected. If anyone has questions about pulling it apart, feel free to inquire. Anyways, I have not come across anyone offering a reason for what is wrong with the actuators, so after I had my footwell actuator free, I let it dangle (while electrically connected) and fired up the truck (didn't fire up the first time because the KESSY unit was disconnected). I could see the actuator was buzzing away, but the arm wouldn't move. After taking it apart (see photo) and manually spinning the worm gears by hand, I verified that nothing was seized and I already knew the motor seemed to be working from the buzzing. I then reconnected the actuator without the cover in place and I could see that the worm gear coming directly out of the motor was spinning, but not engaging with the straight gear below it (top right corner of the photo). After pushing down on the worm gear a bit it engaged well and everything was working again. I have only had the Cayenne for several months and I could hear the actuators acting up on the test drive. The seller played dumb saying he had never heard it before (can't know for sure if that was the truth), but I suspect that over time the motor may burn itself out cause it keeps trying to open or close the arm. If that is the case, if you don't fix it soon, it may need to be replaced, but I plan to put mine back in the car and save the $150 for a new one.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.