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RevMatcher

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About RevMatcher

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

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  • From
    Buffalo, NY
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2002 911 C2
  • Future cars
    997TT
  • Former cars
    Chrysler Crossfire

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  1. I'm just gauging interest in renting out a Durametric Professional unit. The concept is I ship the unit to the renter, let them use it, then they ship it back. $50/week plus shipping. PM me if you are interested.
  2. As I mentioned the accident, I now hypothesize that the clock spring and snap ring were displaced when the air bag went off in the accident. Those explosions are strong. But the guy who fixed it didn't realize that the mechanism was displaced towards the front of the car by the airbag actuation.
  3. Misfire Cylinder 1. Took it apart for the fourth time. Finally realized THIS (see photos). There is a crack in the side of the coil pack. I have seen photos of coil packs with far worse cracking, even blistering. The issue is that I drive in the rain all the time, and sometimes the car is left at the airport for a few days. Every time I come back after rain, I get the misfire. A few dry days, it goes away. So, I cleaned out the cracks with electronic contact cleaner, which is like ether and evaporates very quickly. Then I filled the cracks with hi-temp automotive silicone. It's an experiment. I will replace the coil if it fails again.
  4. Thanks Joe! The gasket just slides off anyway, should be an easy fix. Except for jacking up the car, getting it on stands, pulling the wheel, removing the cover, and working my hands up between the header and engine to remove the connector, then one-handing the dust boot off of course.
  5. 2002 911 C2 Coupe I'm having the classic misfire on cylinder 1 when the car is wet. I used contact cleaner on the ignition wire plug into the coil and it works fine for now. I/m sure when it gets rained on it will misfire again. Already replaced spark plugs. I discovered there is a tear in the little orange gasket (green arrow in photo) on the ignition wire connector and water is getting in there when it rains. Anybody know where I can find a replacement without buying a new $812 engine wiring harness? Thanks Tom
  6. I found the broken tab jammed in the steering column. I found a post somewhere that said many times people install new turn signal mechanisms too far onto the column, away from the driver. Turns out this was true on my car. I took all the shrouds off the column (be patient with the bottom shroud, it will come off) and loosened the 8mm bolt underneath. This bolt holds a friction-fit collar. Once loose, I was able to gently lever the turn-signal mechanism about 0.25in closer to the driver. Now the tab on the clock spring has clearance to rotate. BONUS - Originally I was just trying to get the horn working. Now because this tab exists, the turn signals auto-cancel properly. EXCELLENT!
  7. So I installed the new clock spring, but when I put the steering wheel on it wouldn't budge. I took it all apart again and realized that the old clock spring was mysteriously missing a tab on the back. On the new spring this tab is attached to the rotating portion of the spring and protrudes into the column behind the spring. Here's a pic of the old spring and broken tab, taken from the back.
  8. Well, I was wrong. He DID damage the clock spring. Horn was funny/intermittent, then went out all together. Bought a used clock spring on ebay. Wrenches out, and opened the column up again. Here's the old clock spring, looking at the hole in the bottom where the wood screw was. Look close and you can see the white ribbon cable inside, and the exposed copper where the screw damaged the conductors.
  9. Jon, I bought the car from a private party. This guy didn't seem particularly mechanically inclined. It's lucky he didn't drive the screw in farther and damage the clock spring ribbon cable. Of course now that I was in there, the horn doesn't work...
  10. To the mods, I noticed that a certain word in my post was replaced with ****. My apologies, I should have read the site rules more carefully. You WILL NOT see any curse words in my future posts.
  11. Back from a test drive. WOW what a difference! Without the drag from that wood screw, the steering is now incredibly light. At least by comparison. I had noticed before that after braking hard, the steering would seem stiff. Then I realized that I was the pushing against the steering wheel while braking, and if I then pulled it towards me it was looser. Now after this fix I can turn the wheel with one finger!
  12. Fixed it. It appears that the snap ring that holds the steering shaft in place came loose. Reasons unknown. Then the previous owner or his idiot indie mechanic screwed a WOOD SCREW into the bottom of the "clock spring" wire coil to attempt to fill the gap. This had to be some time ago because since then the back of the steering wheel has been rubbing on the head of the wood screw, to the point that now there is a deep groove in the back of the wheel. Here's the shaft where it should be: Here's the shaft pushed in. WAAAY in. So the answer is, get the snap ring back in place. To do this, I had to take out the two philips screws on the "clock spring" and with a lot of gentle tapping, get the snap ring back into its slot on the shaft. Here you can see the snap ring not quite centered in its slot. Might need to get a new one... VERDICT: FIXED FOR NOW.
  13. Pretty sure this screw is not supposed to be here tearing the **** out of the back of the steering wheel...
  14. Joe, Thanks for the reply! I suppose that is a possibility. I thought I would research a little before just tearing things apart, but the wrenches are coming out soon! Thanks again, Tom
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