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Found 22 results

  1. Hoping to purchase this car.. They ran a DME and this shows only 19 Over Revs in Range 1 with none across the other ranges.. there are a "high"? number of misfires? Is this a concern or perhaps normal and maybe just require plugs / coil packs? My 1st Porsche.. I hope...
  2. Hi all, This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum ! I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed. Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine. Over to the issue for my car: When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust. When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound. But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2. The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open. Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ? Thanks in advance for any help !
  3. Unfortunately, I am back with another problem or problems........ A couple of days ago a check engine light popped up on my 997.2s and because it is my daily driver, I was not able to immediately diagnose the issue. I went ahead and ordered a "Carsoft POR II" scanner off amazon as i thought it would help my understanding in what the problem was. (Getting to the point.....) Today while I was driving home from class, the car was running very rough. I decided to pull over and give the scanner a go... DME CODES; P0660 INTAKE PIPE SWITCHOVER FINAL STAGE P0153 02 SENSOR AHEAD OF CAT BANK 2 DYNAMISM P2099 A/F RATIO CORRECT. BEH. CAT. BANK 2 ABOVE RICH CONTROL UNIT P2198 02 SENSOR AHEAD OF CAT. BANK 2 TOO RICH SIGNAL P0174 BANK 2 TOO LEAN P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN P2196 02 SENSOR SIGNAL BIASED/ STUCK BANK 1 SENSOR 1 Being the person I am, I went ahead and cleared the codes dreaming my problems would magically go away. ? About 10 minutes into my commute the codes again popped up but this time, there was something a bit different....... THE NEW CODES INCLUDED; P0174 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 2 P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1 P0306 MISFIRE CYLINDER 6 P0305 MISFIRE CYLINDER 5 P0304 MISFIRE CYLINDER 4 P0300 MISFIRE - TOTAL ERROR P0660 INTAKE PIPE SWITCHOVER FINAL STAGE About 2 months ago I installed a new O2 sensor bank 1 sensor. While at it, I had a new AOS installed as well (OEM parts). There are some theories I have in mind but as for now, I am truly stumped on this issue. Does anyone have any experience with this madness?! Thanks for reading! ? This morning I started my car again and a puff of white smoke shot out of the tail pipes. The smoke did clear up really quick. MORE NEW CODES; P2A04 O2 SENSOR CIRCUT RANGE/ PERFORMANCE BANK 2 SENSOR 2 P2099 POST CATALYST FUEL TRIM SYSTEM TOO RICH BANK 2 P0153 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE BANK 2 SENSOR 1 P2198 O2 SENSOR SIGNAL BIASED/ STUCK RICH BANK 2 SENSOR 1 P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 1
  4. I am having an intermittent misfire issue with my 996. It started a few months ago, when the battery ran down after not driving it for a few weeks, and I had to jump the car to get it going. After a few miles, I got a CEL and the car started to misfire. Upon arriving at my location, which was just a short distance away, I turned off the engine and went about my business. Upon returning to the car, it ran fine. No CEL and did 65mph all the way home, which was about 20 miles away. All was good, until a couple of weeks ago, when on a slow drive, I got a misfire and the CEL came back on. I made it to a gas station to fill up, expecting it to clear again. This time it did not, and I limped it on home. After a couple of days, I went out to diagnose and checked codes. They were: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 P0305 – PFC 513 – Misfire Cylinder 5 P0303 – PFC 512 – Misfire Cylinder 3 P0304 – PFC 511 – Misfire Cylinder 4 These are on both banks. After a couple of days, I went out, cleared the codes, and the car ran just fine. No CEL and smooth running. I drove it a couple of times, without incident. However, today, I went out to drive the car. Went a short distance…all was fine. When I got back into the car, I once again had misfires and the CEL came on. Checked codes and all I have is: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 The only thing I can think of is that it must either be related to a low voltage battery messing with the computer or somehow related to moisture, since both incidences occurred around having just completed a rain storm. The car was not driven in the rain. This would possibly point to bad coils. I have checked the MAF, but disconnecting the plug, when it was misfiring. No change in idle. Seems strange to have multiple Coils fail at once? But possible. Same with spark plugs. One item of note. This is a replacement engine, replaced by Porsche, due to an engine failure while the PO owned it. The current engine has about 30K miles on it. I am not sure if all the maintenance parts were replaced, such as AOS, coils, plugs, and so on. Any thoughts on what to check to help narrow down the issue, other than just replacing everything or taking it to the repair shop?
  5. Hi The alternator brushes disintegrated at 105k miles, so I bought another whole alternator unit from eBay, fitted no problem checked the voltage at the battery it was above 14v. The battery was then flat the following morning so I bought another battery Bosch S4 figured the alternator cooked a cell before throwing the towel in. Since these changes the check engine light is coming on and the car idles roughly when I comes off the choke or returning to idle from revving, in fact it drops lower than normal idle speed before reluctantly returning to 750, also getting rotten egg smells from exhaust gases. Plugged in a code reader it's giving P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303 and occasionally P1090. The car is very thirsty now , 18mpg . It seems to be running ok at medium to high revs though? I've replaced no1 coil pack, no change still getting missfire fault code on that cylinder. I've cleaned the maf with electrical contact spray, to no real avail, although possible slight improvement. I've ordered another new maf, clutching at straws now any ideas? I work on the rigs so the car gets left for fortnight unused, every time I come home and go to use it something else has broken on it!
  6. 2007 997 was running rough. The Durametric said misfire cylinder one. Checked the forums and saw most likely culprit was either bad spark plug, bad ignition coil, or both. Oreilly’s had the Bosch spark plug and a coul that was labeled Import Direct. For the sake of convenience I bought the plug and coil from them. The coil was actually the newer version Beru (oem) with the longer bolts. Much easier job than I ever imagined. There are good tutorials on YouTube. Engine runs great and I cleared the codes. No check engine light and codes haven’t returned.
  7. Hi guys, I'm new to the site so please be patient with me? (Also grammar isn't my strong point) So, I've owned my 2003 996 carrera for the past 2 years and for the most part its been trouble free. I got it with 110,000 miles its now got 130,000. Maybe 5-6 times over the last year it's started misfiring as I come to a stop, it starts up after maybe 2 minutes and misfires for 30-40seconds, then runs fine. The last two times this has happened the display has said low oil pressure as it's been misfiring, but then starts running normally with no message? Any how just before Christmas I started the car as normal and left it ticking over but got held up,so it was probably idling for 40mins. I heard a loud misfiring sound and it cut out. I thought it had run out of fuel so I put a gallon in and it went up to a quarter. I tried starting it but it turns over but won't start. I have since had it towed in to a garage and they have plugged the computer into it and no faults are showing. Can anyone help as the garage isn't to sure? Thanks in advance Mileet P.S. it's a triptronic
  8. If I run the car at less than 1/4 tank full it's very smooth great acceleration and responsiveness. With engine running I went and filled up with 99 octane as usual and straightaway the engine stutter comes back!!!!!!!! Fyi it is NOT fuel quality. I've started a new thread for this but it's an old problem mentioned in previous posts and unresolved. Basically the ctt 06 with 114,000km has been hesitating and stuttering for a while when accelerating particularly under boost in lower gears through the rev range of 2k 3k 4k ish rpm, it also will vibrate and stutter revving the same rpm in neutral/park when stationary. (which is very weird). So after a lot of finding issues which helped the car overall none of them sorted this stutter out. Quick list, New oem Coils, plugs, n75 valve, air filters, purge valve, and Dv's, Fixed a lot of vac and pcv pipes which leaked Smoke tested intake no leaks boost is +0.8 Head Gaskets done a few 1,000 km all new parts gasket Seals etc. (problem was present before and after head Gasket work). I had a suspicion that the lower fuel level was playing a part in this but I can't work out why a fuller tank would cause running issues?
  9. Hi All, So today, after putting gas (Shell, premium) in my 2014 Cayenne base, I got on the freeway and shortly after, the check engine light came on and Cayenne started shaking abnormally. I was able to turn around and get back home but I noticed 1. When I stop, the CEL flashes and the Cayenne shakes a lot more 2. When I press on the gas, it takes a long time to pick up speed (really struggling). I connected the Durametric when I got home and I see the following misfire fault codes on it. Anyone have any suggestions? Cayenne has around 62k miles on it. P030000 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected Factory Fault Code 10203 Warning Indicator Off Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Pending DTC Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active P030100 Cyl.1 Misfire Detected Factory Fault Code 10591 Warning Indicator Off Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Pending DTC Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active P030300 Cyl.3 Misfire Detected Factory Fault Code 10593 Warning Indicator Off Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Pending DTC Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active P030600 Cyl.6 Misfire Detected Factory Fault Code 10596 Warning Indicator Off Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Pending DTC Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active P030200 Cyl.2 Misfire Detected Factory Fault Code 10592 Warning Indicator Off Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Pending DTC Test Not Failed This Operation Cyclea Fault Active P130A00 Hide cylinder Factory Fault Code 10205 Warning Indicator Off Test Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Pending DTC Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Passive
  10. 2002 911 C2 Coupe I'm having the classic misfire on cylinder 1 when the car is wet. I used contact cleaner on the ignition wire plug into the coil and it works fine for now. I/m sure when it gets rained on it will misfire again. Already replaced spark plugs. I discovered there is a tear in the little orange gasket (green arrow in photo) on the ignition wire connector and water is getting in there when it rains. Anybody know where I can find a replacement without buying a new $812 engine wiring harness? Thanks Tom
  11. Trying to track down an issue I'm having on my 2013 TT. It has a stumble when accelerating in the 1800-2500 rpm range in basically any gear. If I punch it, it will sometimes act like a misfire. I've changed plugs and coils and looked for vacuum leaks in the front and rear of the engine but didn't find anything. I hooked up an Edge CTS to it and watched various parameters over the past few days but don't see anything obvious. Spark timing looks good and consistent, fuel pressure looks OK, Long term and short term fuel trims look OK (see below), and O2 sensors don't appear to be malfunctioning. Boost may be an issue as the CTS doesn't always read equal to the dash gauge (might be lag in time it samples the data). I checked hoses and don't see anything obvious and made sure clamps were tight. I haven't checked under the intake manifold for anything yet. So for data I never see the short or long terms get above +/-10%. Short terms go up when accelerating but then come back down to close to zero at cruising speeds or driving at a steady pace in the neighborhood. I've also sat at idle and revved to about 2500rpm with no load to watch them and once I hit a steady state they are almost always at or near 0%. So back to the boost readings, I will see about 0.1-0.3 on the dash gauge and watching the CTS readout it will only go to 3 or 4 psi. Sometimes when showing 0.1 or 0.2 psi on the dash, it shows 0 or 1psi on the CTS. So just to be sure I think I'll check the wastegate diaphragms for leaks and then the diverter valves next. On full throttle I see about 8 or 9 psi, peak at 10 once or twice so I'm not sure how much it's supposed to be making. But I can't keep it punched for long due to where I live. Any suggestions?
  12. H! I have an 996 - 99mod manual 3,4L. When i start up it seems like it misfires. It`s kind of a knocking sound. Sometimes it stops on idle. When i push the throttle for a ouple of seconds, it smokes a lot and then the knocking goes away. After that, I let it Idle - but it slowly rises from 800rpm to around 2000rpm, then it drops to 800rpm again and do the same thing over and over again, Does anybody have a clue? This is the fault codes i found: P1601 -CAN timeout - instrument cluster P0600 - CAN timeout Tiptronic P0102 Hot film MAF sensor (erased and didn`t come back) 60 - Central locking limit pos 13 - Left door secured, but not locket 14 - Left door secured, but not locket 16 - Signal from airbag 1 - Doors secures and terminal 15 on 43 - passenger - side release stuck 44 - Driver-side release stuck 61 - Central locking limit position Unlock not reached
  13. I've continued to snag and fix pretty much all the issues on my ctt, im left with a stutter at 2k 3k & 4k rpm. Seems to get better the longer I drive ie after 500km was smoother but then I disconnected the battery and was back to a very lumpy low rpm up to 4k then it flies. I decided to pull out my dip stick whilist running expecting a dip in rpm and some lumpy idle but nothing happens. The idle is fine and stable at 500rpm, I know a lot of people with vac pvc leaks have bad idle but not me. So the question is should the pcv system be affected by sip stick out or do I have a leak I don't know about and the dme is compensating this and hence no rpm change? Side note I read a thread about dme problem from factory for hesitation but I'm thinking this not the same complaint as stuttering acceleration. FYI new coils, plugs, head Gaskets, battery, divertor valves, air filters, maf's cleaned ££££££$$$$$ you get the picture.
  14. Hi everyone, I've been reading the RT Forums for a while but now I'm finally registered in order to try and track down an issue I've been having. I've searched for related issues through the forums already, but nothing is showing up which is a match for mine. '99 2.5, 5 Speed, 99K Miles Only upgrades are headers and catback. I've owned the car since March of this year and it's been great so far. I've even taken it to the local PCA Autocross. A couple of weeks ago I was cruising on the freeway when my CEL came on steady, no blink. There was no noise or indication to me that anything had gone wrong, the car kept running completely as usual. When I got it home I plugged in my code reader and got a cylinder 5 misfire. I had been planning on a spark plug job anyway, so I got new spark plug tubes the next day as well as 6 plugs and did the job. I reset the CEL for the drive to my garage space, but on the way there I got a real misfire under heavy acceleration that felt and sounded like the engine was really struggling. It did go away after a few seconds, though. Whomever was the last person/garage to do the plugs on the car was a complete idiot and should never touch a car again. None of the spark plugs were torqued, and were all finger tight. The cylinder 5 plug was covered in dirty oil and had BOTH of its electrodes snapped off. God only knows where they ended up, but it didn't seem to be in the engine, so that's good I guess. Once I replaced all the the plug tubes and actually torqued down the plugs themselves, the engine seemed to fire up fine, plus I was no longer getting a ticking on idle that I thought might be a valve issue. I guess things sound a lot better when the spark plugs are tightened. Since I thought that cleared things up, I drove it home, and on the way found space to put my foot down. As soon as the pedal reached the floor, the misfiring started again, with the engine again getting super rough and struggling. Once I got home I was able to recreate the issue in my driveway by just pinning the throttle and letting the misfires happen again. Just to be sure the computer didn't still have some wonky settings in it, I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to let everything reset. Since then I've been pretty scared to go WOT, but a few days ago I did and the exact same thing happened again. That code indicated cylinders 2 and 3. Last night I did it again and the code showed cylinder 2. Unfortunately, the miss didn't go away immediately like it usually does, so it followed me home. Still, it went back to normal as soon as I turned off the engine and restarted. Long story short: I'm getting a rough misfire when I go to full throttle, happens pretty much the instant the pedal hits the floor. Usually goes away within a few seconds. No other symptoms, idles and run completely as normal at all other times. No CEL if I don't trigger the misfire with the gas pedal. Any ideas? EDIT: Also, it doesn't appear to be a symptom of revs. The miss starts when the pedal goes to WOT, not when the revs climb past a certain mark. I've revved it quite high at partial throttle with no issue. My code reader says the miss last night started at 3800 rpm, but full throttle.
  15. I had the following error codes registered and a very erratic tickover when idle, I had both Variocam actuators replaced, 3 months ago, and I have again got the same error codes as I had before the actuators were fitted: P0300 - misfire detection P0306 - misfire cylinder 6 P1371 - valve lift control checksum error P1360 - valve lift control cylinder 6 The misfire is very sporadic, it does not have any regularity to it, it can happen when the car is first started, or when the car is warm, and when the misfire occurs the car can be driven and at the end of the journey (sometimes) the misfire is no longer evident. to add to the confusion the car can also be driven for days with no misfiring, the problem (whatever it is) is very intermitant. These error codes are the same as before I had the new Variocam actuators fitted...any ideas anyone? Getting frustrated now...!! My car is a 2004 Porsche 996 C4S with 129000 km on the odometer
  16. Finally got my CTT back after a head gasket job, new & rebuilt turbo and timing chain. Stealership went into receivership before work was done but fortunately they allowed mech to finish assembly. Mech informed me all went well but cyl 7 misfire is coming in. Swapped plugs and coils to different cyl to troubleshoot. Still came in as cyl 7 misfire. I see from a quick search this problem could be a simple connection or fuse issue. Unfortunately I'm at work for 5 more days and can't fix CTT for wife. If someone could fast track me to the potential fuse I can try to guide my wife through the hunt
  17. Hi all! Many months ago I had a problem with the MAF shutting down the engine/staffing it on startup (tried cleaning it no luck). I disconnected the MAF and it ran fine on the default values, just burning more fuel. Now its time to get my emissions test so I bit the bullet and bought a new Bosch MAF. I installed the MAF, and the durametric software cleared the fault codes and the new MAF is giving off normal values hovering around 10-13 on car idle. The issue I am having is that I am receiving multiple misfires on all the cylinders through the Durametric software when the new MAF is connected. When I disconnect the mass airflow sensor I obviously get a check engine light, but I get 0 misfires on any of the cylinders. I know that the maf is brand-new and is putting out valid values so I don't think that is the problem. The car is about 9 years old as it is a 2005 base Boxster 2.7 L engine and has never had its spark plugs coils for replaced (old owner was an idiot!). The car has 83,000 km on it. My initial guess is that the spark plugs need to be replaced or potentially the coil packs. Is this assumption correct? Two other items to take into account is that the old MAF was covered in oil and there was a small puddle of oil in the intake system/velum. Also when the mass airflow sensor was disconnected the engine would start obviously a little rougher but there was a plume of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Now that the sensor is replaced, the white smoke has disappeared. I thought that this may have been up potential AOS problem, but maybe it was just an issue with airflow sensor in disconnected. The other item to take into account is that I have a constant issue with the cooling system flushing the coolant out of the car (near the right rear wheel) when I shut off the engine I checked the coolant tank and it appears to be fine with no cracks but I was told that it may be the coolant CAP Issue - not sure how a coolant cap makes a difference, but this is what I was told. I have not investigated this issue yet as I'm trying to deal with the codes that are generating the misfires now (priority as I need to pass the emissions test) that I replace the mass airflow sensor which I am assuming once again that it may just be spark plugs and or the coils. What do you think? Any help is much appreciated!
  18. So here's my problem. I've got a 2001 Boxster S with the factory 3.2L engine and ~70,000 miles. I bought the car in 2010 with 38,000 miles on it. I have it serviced regularly every 5,000 miles at the independent dealership, iAutohaus, where I bought it. They specialize in European luxury cars and I trust them as much as a person can trust a dealership, I guess. My wife drove out Monday from Phoenix to Albuquerque with no issues. After spending the night at a friend's house, she left to drive on to her final destination in Santa Fe. After leaving her friend's house, she called me saying the CEL was flashing and the car was running really rough and had very little power. She was close to an Autozone so I had her take it there to have the codes read. She called me back saying it read a P0303, P0302, P0301, P0300, P0304, P0305, and P0306. Which I know are misfire codes, on every cylinder. Well, while I was checking around to find a reputable Porsche mechanic in Albuquerque, I guess the Autozone salesman told her it was due to bad gas and to buy some fuel system cleaner and she'd be fine. I called her back to tell her what I had found mechanic wise, and she said she had driven it on to Santa Fe. She said it was fine as long as she stayed out of 6th gear and didn't rev the engine too much. I'm not real happy she did that. Anyway.... She got it to a mechanic in Santa Fe and he initially checked the coil packs. After clearing the error codes, he said the misfire on cylinder 3 kept coming back. He swapped the coil packs but the problem stayed with cylinder 3 so he began to think maybe spark plugs. That didn't help either. A compression test showed very low compression on cylinder 3 and a leak down test showed it wouldn't hold pressure. The mechanic is suspecting a broken valve spring, or worse, and is suggesting either a $4500 rebuild or find another engine. But of course, I'm in Phoenix and the car is in Santa Fe. Oh, and my wife, she is still there too. I guess I'm a little confused on how it can go from running fine one minute, to having misfires on every cylinder, to having no compression on cylinder 3. Although, I'm sure the fact that she drove it an extra 50 miles didn't help anything. I'll be leaving Sunday to go pick up the car, and my wife. I'm am an experienced mechanic, just not fluent in Porsche so I'm not sure if I want to tackle this myself or not. Do you have any suggestions on additional troubleshooting I could do or should I just start looking for a new engine?
  19. Hello All, I purchased a 2005 Carrera base with 60k a few months ago. Being a Porsche fan all my life, this was finally my first one. The car fax and records looked good but since I got it, its has been nothing but problems. Within the first month, the water pump went out. Considering the car is 7+ years old, I was okay with that. The following month the CEL came on with misfiring sum and all cylinders. I took it to TPWS in Austin and they said I needed to replace the spark plugs and coils so I had them do it. Now 2 weeks later, the CEL is on again with misfiring sum and misfiring 3, 5 and 6 cylinders. I made an appointment to take it back to TPWS. I don't mind replacing my coils and plugs but it seems like that wasn't the root cause of my CEL to begin with. Questions to the forum: Should I expect to have my 911 in the shop every month (i. e. is this normal)? Shop always seems to be really busy. Is going through a list of possibilities the correct way to approach these CEL codes or should I take it to someone else? Thanks in advance, Oscar
  20. My 2000 Boxster S w/105k (body) 40k (engine) is acting up. Last fall, I got caught in downpour and inches of standing water, getting splashed hard by other cars. The CEL started flashing and the car was nearly impossible to drive past 3rd gear (no power and bucking) until I could get off freeway to let it dry out. It had several misfire codes set. Ever since then, it's been a little less smooth than I had been accustomed to, and now it is misfiring and bucking below about 2600 RPM all gears, all temps, but ONLY with high throttle opening (e-gas). Tipping the throttle in seems to be fine. High RPM seems ok, if maybe a little weak. If you keep the throttle open under the misifiring conditions, it will cause a flashing CEL, although it will not stay on. Stored codes are P0300, P0301. Previously, the secondary air injector and catalyst codes have set the CEL, but it went away on their own (this was after driving on a very dusty road last fall). Car is stock, except desnorkel. Half of exhaust was disconnected recently for wheel bearing replacement, but this problem predates that job. Have changed plugs, cleaned MAF, cleaned throttle body. Most of the coils are cracked, but not bad enough to see inside -- I epoxied them. Problem seemed to clear up after changing plugs, but then came back on next drive. I suspect bad coil(s), also MAF or vacuum leaks. My understanding is that the coils should have about 40k miles on them (same as engine), but they do look pretty rough. I am ordering coils, but want to make this problem go away permanently without playing the blind remove and replace game -- what else should I look at? I will disconnect the MAF and drive around to see if that helps and do a propane vacuum leak check as well when the engine lid is off. Thanks so much guys, Cary (photo is from Utah, 3k into my 10k mile summer roadtrip last year, car was awesome!)
  21. Long time lurker, first time poster. I can usually find everything I need here by searching, but I'm stumped by this problem I'm having... Car is a 2000 C2 with 91k miles, and has run strong with the normal maintenance for the three years that I have owned it. I should also note that in the last year I have replaced plugs, coil packs, MAF sensor, and cleaned the throttle body. Not sure if this is related to my problem, but I was blowing leaves from my driveway last week and also blew them from of the spoiler fins of the car. Anyway, the next morning the car started, but the engine was running very rough with a loud knocking sound. I quickly shut it off and let it sit for a few days until I could take a closer look. The CEL was on and returned the P0302 code. After inspecting the air box and throttle body, I didn't see anything unusual beyond the air filter, so I ruled out any foreign object being blown into the engine from my stupid leaf blowing episode. I fired it up and it was still idling very rough with white smoke coming from the driver's side exhaust. Next, I replaced the coil pack and plug from cylinder #2 (assuming P0302 was denoting a misfire in cylinder 2), but I still had the same issue. Of note, the plug that was removed from cylinder #2 was wet and smelled of gasoline. From this, I assume that it was getting fuel, but not getting a spark. Now, the car won't start at all - it turns over and sputters, but won't idle. Based on my research on this forum, I feel like I've eliminated some of the easy/cheap fixes. Any other suggestions before I have it towed to the dealer? This car is my hobby - I have time, some tools, and a little aptitude. I'd prefer to sort this out myself, but I have a bad feeling about this one. Mike
  22. When the check engine light came on, my mechanic plugged the car into his laptop and got a misfire reading. Since the car was not due for a plug change, he attributed the misfire to bad gas and drained the tank. That didn’t fix the misfire light from coming on and he accordingly changed the plugs. After changing the plugs the misfire reading still appeared which led to changing out the coil packs. That didn’t fix the problem either, so he borrowed an ECU from another TT and put it in my car…NADA. We’re currently scratching our heads wondering what is causing the problem. Anyone else experience this?
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