GOB

Well, now I am stuck.... Your replies make more sense to me, as does another one that I got relating this to the solenoids, but the dealer just called and told me that the reason for my issue is directly related to the cable that connects the shifter lever to the tranny itself. They claim that they "temporarily fixed it with a pin and some washers", but the cable needs to be replaced. They even managed to drive the truck to another lot they have with this fix. As per their claim, their "hack job" can last 1 day or 100 years, they just don't know. Their repair quote came in at $228 for the cable and $338 for labor to replace it. Any idea what the part number for that cable is? See the exploded view below.

Thank you. It is at the dealer now and who knows what story they may come back with in order to fix this problem. I have since learned that there are two solenoids that could also be the cause of this problem.

The tow truck is on the way, but I wanted to see if anyone could shed some light as to what could be wrong with my 03 Turbo. After a 2 hour highway drive, that included a stop where I turned off the car, we arrived to our destination, only to find out that when I put the car on "P", the dash indicator and transmission, would still remain in "D". The shift lever can be moved from P to R to N, but takes a lot of effort to get into D. Once in D, I can go into the manual mode and shift it to 1st (dash indicator confirms this), but I cannot get the car out of D. Had to remove the 2 fuel pump relays to turn the car off as it won't do it with the key since it thinks it is in D. Once off, I removed the negative terminal of the battery (under driver's seat) and when I re connected the battery, all I got was a air suspension fault code. The car still thinks it is in D, but now the dash indicates as if P, R, N, and D are all selected at the same time. Anyone ever gone through anything like this? Any idea what the solution will/could be? Thanks in advance for any and all help regarding this matter.

Enclosed are some pics of what I have now. Appears to be a factory install of the sub (wiring at least, minus the enclosure in which it theoretically goes). Recall that I do have the spare tire and the second battery option in the truck. So if those two things are there, where does this speaker go?! Side panel shown? As is right now, it has been just "thrown in there" and the previous owner claims he never touched the stereo (no reason to doubt him). I just want to have the local dealer put this where it belongs and how it belongs before my warranty is out!

I have a 2003 Cayenne Turbo with the PCM option and Bose speakers. I believe it uses regular speaker wire and not MOST, but not sure. Yesterday, while digging around the trunk, I took the rear left side panel off and saw a speaker (perhaps 4" or 5.25") just dangling! Took it to the dealer and they are lost since they state that vehicle should have never had speakers there to begin with. I find it odd that Porsche would perforate the plastic in a manner that would lead you to believe there is a speaker under there. There is a speaker on the right side in the same spot where the left one is dangling. Can anyone please confirm for me which are the speaker locations for my truck, particularly from the rear doors back. Apparently I don't have the sub underneath the spare, something I thought was stock. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Does it require some additional hardware for it to work, or can it be displayed by a "simple" upgrade to the PCM? Which is the latest version of the PCM that would be compatible with my truck? How do I find out what version I am in? Recall that navigation is not an option as there are no CDs for Panama.

See what my gauge cluster looks like.... Its missing the compass on the left. Perhaps something else I am not aware of? Don't mind the mpg figure, I was trying out the turbos :P

I just got a 2003 Cayenne Turbo (Alpha/Beta haters can rest as most known issues have been taken care of and it has full warranty until March of next year :P ) and noticed that the compass is not displaying in the dash. Do I just need to ask the local stealer to update my PCM to 2.1? There is no navigation CD for my country (Panama), so not sure if one has to do with the other (compass and nav CD). Just want to make sure I get all the bells and whistles that I can get before the warranty expires :D :rolleyes:

Thank you all for the replies. For the record, I did not mean for this post to be one of those flaming ones regarding engine reliability. I was seriously interested in how to determine the engine's health. Since that post, I have had to replace the front shocks in my car (had one leak), and that was the drop that caused me to go nuts. The car is definitely for sale and I will not keep it for much longer. Too bad I am never around home to actually sell it! (too much business travel). It may be a while before it sells, but its definitely going to a new home eventually. I have cleaned the TB with gunk cleaner (as well as the ICV and MAF). My car just turned 50K (kilometers, ±31,000 miles) and its running fine for the time being. Recently, I only drive it about once a week for 30 minutes or so. In the last two years, I averaged 4K miles per year driving, but this year, I have been away on business quite a lot.

Thanks!

Thanks for the confirmation on the shocks and the time they take to settle (apparently none..). What level should the fuel tank be at for the best results possible during alignment?

Well, just got my Bilstein Sport shocks to replace my damaged RoW M030 shocks (front right leaking badly) and I just wanted to confirm that in fact the car will need to be aligned after this procedure is done, correct? :huh: Should I drive the car for X miles before getting the alignment done so the shocks "settle", or does this just apply towards springs, not shocks? :huh: (I am keeping my stock springs, just the front shocks are being replaced) Thank you in advance for your replies :)

Any leads on where I could find a PST2/PIWIS for sale used, but in great condition?

Did a bit of researching here AFTER I posted and realized its either Durametrics for the scanner (sorry for that), but I think that what he really will need is a PST2/PIWIS. For the latter, are they very hard to find (used)? I have seen price range from "less than $3K" to $20K! And then there is the annual subscription for updates that are close to $2.5K/year (this info from 3 years ago..)

Anyone has leads on where I could purchase one of these that would be able to read all codes/reset/etc. for Porsche cars? Are there any specific to Porsches (mainly for 996s on up and Cayennes). Sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to help out a local mechanic. Thanks.

ICV valve?

I know this post is old, but I am looking for similar information, except that I need the part numbers for a RoW M030 Carrera 2, 6 speed (1998 model) front shocks. Do you have these at hand Loren? Are the Porsche shocks completely different from the ones offered by Bilstein? Anyone have the correct Bilstein part number for what I need?

I have driven my car 6K miles in the last 19 months. Its not a lot as far as USA standards is concerned, but its just a tad below the "average" 8K miles per year that people do down here. My car barely has 31K miles on it and just now when I went for an errand, the erratic idle issue I have posted about elsewhere came up (I guess its another $300 repair, this time for a MAF) :angry: . To give you an idea why I have become a tad "nervous" about the reliability of my car, check what I have done to it since purchased (the large number before the $ is my mileage in kilometers): 4/29/06 Air, oil, particle filters Alemautos $105.81 5/2/06 Oil change (Mobil 1 15-50), fuel filter changed Taller 930 39,096 $130.00 5/4/06 Bosch starter motor refurbished Vertex $289.97 5/4/06 Bosch spark plugs (6) Vertex $57.78 5/8/06 Sachs clutch kit Vertex $401.25 5/8/06 Poly Rib belt Vertex $31.03 5/9/06 Porsche caliper decals Xenonmods.com $12.00 5/14/06 1 qt. Mobil 1 15-50 Delta Calle 50 39,200 $6.75 5/17/06 Wiper blades MW 22" Auto Centro 39,263 $11.03 5/19/06 Center console hinge kit Alemautos $25.00 5/22/06 Falken Azenis RT-615 225/40/18 & 265/35/18 Discount Tire Direct $943.33 5/22/06 Front corner headlight washer cover (right) Alemautos $34.08 5/26/06 Johnson Films Executive 35 Pit Stop C. de Este 39,387 $110.00 5/27/06 Labor clutch & starter 39,397 $400.00 5/28/06 Stem valves and caps Respuestos Mundiales $8.40 5/31/06 Hood crest kit Assesales (Ebay) 39,505 $35.95 6/1/06 Tire balance & install, 4 wheel alignment Servicentro Densa 39,511 $144.90 6/1/06 Porsche pedal set 5th-Gear (Ebay) $94.01 6/20/06 Mintex Red Box & ATE rubber brake hoses Rennsport Systems $225.85 6/30/06 Hood crest installed GOB 39,871 $0.00 7/3/06 Halogen bulbs (2) Left side replaced Alemautos $26.59 7/4/06 High temp red paint Discovery Center $9.29 7/4/06 ATE Super Blue brake fluid (2L) Servicios Carlos $34.00 7/21/06 Porsche coolant top off and bleed by me Alemautos 40,115 $13.21 10/5/06 Diagnose and recharge AC (evaporator dead) Auto Cooler Service 42,100 $35.00 11/7/06 Bosch fuel pump Vertex $244.40 11/21/06 Muffler bypass pipes Servicentro Mon 42,662 $18.90 11/25/06 Fuel pump replacement labor 42,681 $90.00 12/2/06 Re set fuel gauge and check OBD Alemautos 42,931 $26.25 12/2/06 Coolant expansion tank and coolant Alemautos $220.29 12/2/06 Coolant expansion tank labor 42,936 $100.00 12/20/06 Coolant cap Alemautos 43,400 $14.55 12/30/06 Evaporator, console hinge install, labor for all 43,575 $650.00 4/11/07 Droplinks (fronts only) Alemautos $85.39 4/11/07 Droplinks labor Servicentro Densa 45,250 $31.50 4/11/07 Rear window seal trim Alemautos $38.85 4/26/07 Rear window seal labor $40.00 6/7/07 Wheel bolts (2 afer breaking safety ones) Alemautos 46,090 $14.07 6/7/07 Removed mufflers GOB $0.00 6/19/07 Re install of muffler bypass pipes Rapid Muffler 46,453 $31.50 9/10/07 Replace water pump & coolant Alemautos 48,200 $408.28 12/7/07 Replace horn (1) Taller 930 49,500 $40.00 I guess I will spend the $300 for the MAF, and another $300 or so for a compression/leakdown test to see what the numbers say. Like 1999 alluded to, one thing does not necessarily mean the other.

Perhaps due to all of the issues I have had with my car, I have lost a bit of faith in it and actually put it up for sale. Even though I have had some low ball offers, I am not taking them. All of this has made me re think about actually selling the car or not. Are there any definite tests that can be done to determine if my engine will let go sooner than later? If I can do this and see that I do in fact have a healthy engine, then I may decide to just keep the car, after all, I have replaced so many things on it that the only major thing that worries me to repair is the engine itself! The reason for my uncertainty about the engine is due to the "questionable reliability" stigma associated with early 996s (mine is a 98 RoW) and the fact that my car, while idles steady, makes the passenger seat shake a bit. So, is this leakdown and compression? Anything else specific to 996s that mechanics could use to determine the health of the engine (without having to take it apart that is...). Thanks in advance for the replies!

Thanks guys. After plugging the harness back in, the car is actually a tad smoother when it comes to idle. I let it warm up properly, then I took it out on the highway for a 30 minute "spirited" :P drive. Some partial throttle, some cruising, and a few blasts to 130mph or so too :rolleyes: :D And yes, I was very careful in doing so (toll road with very few cars on it). No more shutting off in the highway as I put it in neutral (talk about a scare at high speed :o ). Seems to run fine now and perhaps I had not driven it that way in a while, but I do not recall this car pulling so strong in 5th gear. Did a proper 10 minute "cool down" driving and parked it. Lets hope that was the problem, although I am not too confident that this disconnected harness was the issue (see this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=12878&hl= ) :renntech:

I have been having intermittent issues with my car stalling and I thought it was a bad MAF. Cleaned out the unit, as well as the connector and everything was fine for a while. Then the stalling became more frequent. Took it to the dealer and the diagnosis (post repair of the water pump) was a bad MAF. I was about to order a new one, when I realized that the connector to the MAF was not connected at all! :o Now I don't know if when they ran the PS2 test on the car the connector was plugged into the MAF or not. I also do not know what the effect of driving my car this way is (both at part throttle and WOT). Anyone know if I have done serious damage by running the car hard and the mixture not being right (too lean? too rich?). :huh:

It could also be the droplinks. Extremely easy to replace and not too terribly expensive.

As far as I know and can tell, my car has the original windshield on it. Planning to take it to the dealer to see if they can trace this leak. I just do not want to spend any more money on this car and will put it up for sale very soon. How do I check the roof drain?

Popolou: I would agree with you, but less than 30 days ago when I had to replace my water pump, I had the local stealer adjust my windows since they made a lot of wind noise at 80mph and above. Now the same noise is at 120mph, but in both door/window seal scenarios, the problem persists. I am led to believe it has something to do with the A pillar since I have put my hand all over the place and I can definitely track that it comes from above. Notice my first image and you can see the difference (albeit slight) in the "darkness" of my rug. Light means dry (sort of), dark means drenched. You can also see the water deposit on the back of the rug (notice it all stays near the door sill). Any clue as to what is going on?? :eek: :cursing: :soapbox: :wacko:

Sorry to bring this subject up again, but I am still having issues with my car getting wet on the passenger footwell when it rains. I have attached a couple of pictures so anyone can get a better look as to what area I am talking about. The tip of the red arrows indicates the "source" of the water. It seems as if it cascades down from the tip of the arrow all the way down to the footwell, but stays just next to the doorsill (all the way back to the passenger seat). I had to replace my AC unit and the drain tube is perfectly connected and draining properly. The drain holes that Loren pointed out on the image above are also clog free. I have no idea how this water is getting there, all I know is that it happens when I drive the car in wet weather. Any ideas or suggestions (besides ripping out the carpet and driving in the rain while someone sticks his head in there?! :o