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GOB

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Everything posted by GOB

  1. Mine is a C2, so the pictures help. Looks like it needs recalibration by the dealer anyways, so I will have them do this job for me after all. I can get the pump for $245.92 in USA or $400 locally! Guess what I will be doing... Since nobody said anything regarding the ATF in the fuel, I am guessing its a definite "no no" then?
  2. Loren, do you have instructions on how to get to this fuel pump? I hear its under the battery, but not sure what exactly to do. Please :notworthy:
  3. I hear ya Geoff. The ATF thing sounds fishy to me, but maybe it was one of those great "secrets". The thing that bugs me is that since I got the car 5 months ago, I have replaced: clutch, starter motor, all fluids, all filters, brake lines/pads, tinted windows, pro detailing, etc., etc. and I am just tired of sinking money into it. The evaporator has gone bad and I am just waiting for it to clunk out before having to replace it (delaying the inevitable). Guess I have to add the fuel pump to this list :blink: ATF in the fuel tank will mess up things for sure then?
  4. O.K., I found the culprit :jump: Its the fuel pump going bad :( I figured this out by turning the car on, then removing the fuse for the fuel pump and as soon as I did this, the noise went away! :clapping: The head mechanic at the local dealer told me that when he used to work on BMWs, they used to put some ATF fluid (half a quart) with the car having a full tank of fuel in it. The ATF would lubricate the pump and quiet them down that way with no ill effect on the engine (huh?! :unsure: ). Another alternative is to remove the fuel pump and run straight ATF though it to lubricate it and put it back in. He has done this many times on BMWs and Porsches. So.... Anyone has instructions as to how to remove and re install a fuel pump? I understand that it sits below the battery. Anyone ever heard of this "ATF fix"?
  5. Nope, no change when I turn the wheel in any direction. No CD changer installed (wished I did so I could plug my iPod!), and no headlight or windshield pump noise (I can tell those when I activate it). The only noise I get when I turn the wheel is the VERY annoying clunking noise from the dried out strut bearings (just apply high water pressure to the area around the top of the springs and it quiets down for 2 days or so). I just got back from an errand and I could have sworn that right before starting the car, the whine was there for a second, then as I started the engine, it was off, but as soon as the engine fired, it was back on. I am leaning towards the fuel pump, but as Loren mentions, usually when these go, its all at once. The local head tech did tell me that there is some sort of carbon filter "in there" that may be clogged, but unless they open it up (take the front end apart), they cannot give me a clue, nor can they receive my car there til first week in November! I just want to make sure I am not damaging something else, or possibly create a hazzard (fuel pump failure with gasoline?!).
  6. Both. Just picked up the kids from school and even they (twin 4 year olds) asked me "what is that noise?"! Its not related to rpms (constant whine), unless they drop below 800. The noise is constant and permanent regardless of speed.
  7. I also use the Falken Azenis RT-615 en la calle and it is increíble! Tons of grip. A bit rough, but when corners come up, agarrense!
  8. Has anyone experienced this or knows what could be causing this. Sounds like a race car's fuel pump before being started. It definitely comes from the front (clearly audible on either side) and to a distance of 8 feet away. I can hear it inside up until about 2K rpms. Happens when the car is cold and warm. Fuel level on the tank does not affect it. The steady humm/whine is present at all rpms, and barely changes tone (lower) when the revs drop below 800, but from 800 and up, its the same. :cursing: :cursing: Stealer wants me to drop it off so they can remove the front wheels and fender covers so they can see what could be wrong. They have no clue as to what it could be and they can't tell me if I am damaging anything or not. Oh, and I have to wait 2 weeks before they can look at it. :soapbox: So, any takers? I guess I could pull the wheels myself and try and remove the plastic lining, but not sure what to even look for!
  9. We all know that the expansion tanks have a bad tendency to leak/explode, but what I am not sure is if placing the newer cap on it prevents from this happening, or will it happen regardless of what cap is on there. It is my understanding that the new version has a part number that reads 99610644701 and costs about $17 from the dealer. ;)
  10. I took my car into the dealership to complain about an odd noise I get when I turn the front wheels from side to side. I can best describe the sound as having race springs on a old 911 and they are being compressed. The head tech told me that its a common problem on early 996s and that the noise comes from the strut bearings? I have no idea about these bearings (they are apparently 3 parts to them) and he proved to me that it was this since he applied some high pressure water at the top of the shock (through the wheel wells) and the noise went away for a day or two. I found the attached pic on the DIY section, but for the life of me, can't figure out what the part numbers are of them. They want a fortune for these ($300 per side) down here, so I want to make sure about this and see if I can source them for less. I have the RoW M030. Thanks!
  11. I did remove that foam cover/silencer you speak of and that is how I was able to feel the condenser wet to the touch and see the drain tube in place. I guess I will take it off again in case my wife feels her feet wet again or I can see it while doing errands.
  12. Now I am really confused :huh: I poured water between the battery and the microfilter and I saw the water drain right away to the floor. No clogs there. Then I poured water by the windshiled, door, mirror, etc. and nothing wet. I washed the car with pressure and again, no wet spot. I removed the cover under the dash and saw the black tube that I assumed was the drain and it was properly hooked up. Turned the AC on for a few mins and it did get wet to the touch, but no water drip. :unsure: Yeah, this one will take a while to figure out...
  13. Thanks Mark. Will look into it, but the spot is very specific (about 6"x4"). Will look around the AC micro filter drain as it appears to be the culprit. If I only had the time to do this now!
  14. Yes, my car is a Coupe. Will have a looksy around #4 & #5. Thanks!
  15. I too have the Azenis RT 615 tires and wait until they lose their mold grease. You will have fun! B) My alignment spec is as per my suspension (RoW M030), but with about -1 of camber up front. No complaints here (just wish the roads were smoother!). :drive:
  16. Thanks Loren. It looks like it may be this, but I drove around today and could not notice any more water. What was completely revealing to me was that after washing the car, the same spot was soaken wet! :cursing: I am guessing that yesterday's espisode was due to this also (although my wife did notice a drop or two on her shoe). Any idea as to how water from outside is getting into this spot? The seal around the windshield seems to be nice and tight. Please :help:
  17. My wife just told me that she felt a drop of water fall on her right foot. Well, I checked around and noticed that my carpet is completely soaked! :eek: This is on the passenger side, right at the corner where the floor starts to rise. This on the right side of the floor (towards the door). Any ideas? :help:
  18. I went with Mintex Red Box pads all around (not a track pad) and it was about $140 for pads. You can get a set of new factory rotors for about $600. 1 liter of ATE Super Blue is about $15. So as you can see, price is on the high side. Its a VERY easy DIY job. Messy, but easy. I would say its about a 2 hour job for the 4 corners.
  19. Thank you all. Need to get the rebuild kit in the States since the local stealer does not have it in inventory and wants about 5 times the normal price.
  20. Thanks. At least you confirmed for me the suspicion that in fact I do have to rebuild the caliper. Dang it! :censored:
  21. Well, I found out that it basically concentrates only on the front right caliper. Removed it, sanded down the pads, bled that corner and it was all fine before lowering it to the ground. Went for a short drive and I could tell there was something "slowing" the car down. Sure enough, back into the shop, raised the front right and the wheel does not spin freely (it used to be that I could not get it to move even if I tried before doing all this). Mechanic said I need new caliper kit, but I am not so sure since all seals looked fine and not a drop of fluid anywhere. Any ideas as to why the piston is not returning after releasing the brakes? I am off to bleed the rest of the calipers, but if anyone has any ideas, please do let me know!!
  22. My apologies for not being Porsche related :oops: , but I believe it should apply the same. My Euro BMW M Coupe has the Euro floating rotors, ATE blue fluid (about a year old), and PBR Metal Master pads (5K miles on them) and until 4 days ago, it braked a lot better than my 996 C2. Well, I don't know how or why, in one relatively aggressive braking maneuver (115mph to 10mph) :drive: without invoking ABS, I did "something" that caused the discs to become blue (too much heat?!) and my pads to "swell up" to the point that it felt as if someone was lightly braking all the time. I have done the same thing before many times and it has never happened before. I did drive for about 15 minutes to cool them off and occassionaly tapping the pedal to see if they would "release back" and they did, but not fully. I parked it for a couple of days and now the same dragging caliper/brake applied all the time/ blue disc is back. It mostly concentrates on the front right corner, some on the left, nothing on the rear. What should I do? Bleed the brakes? Sand down the pads? Any idea will greatly appreciated. :help: :help: :help:
  23. Thanks for the tips. I flushed my brake fluid yesterday with the help of the head Porsche mechanic and what he did was to pour an ounce or two of fresh fluid on the receiving bottle that way, when he opened the first nipple, no air came back as the tube had fluid in it all the time. This saved us from having to open and close the nipple every time I had to pump the brake pedal.
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