Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
On the 07-4PU part, the top of "C" curves downward, whereas on the 10-4PU part, the top of the C doesn't curve downward. That's why 10-4PU won't stick to the original location (the top of the "C" will stick up. On 2002 and later models, the Carrera emblem is stuck on lower, so the C doesn't stick up.
I don't have the noise you're talking about but I understand what you mean. If you were to put some lubricant on the seat back lock (at the bottom of the seat back, which keeps the seat back from folding forward) that might put an end to it.
This brings back memories. I did the stalk OBC hack back in 2002 and it came out great and works like a factory OBC.
My Autozone Duralast Platinum AGM H7 battery (now 4-1/2 years old) must be much stronger than your. Last weekend, after not having driven the car for 3 weeks, the voltmeter still showed 12.7 volts. I didn't event bother to plug in the battery maintainer.
I'm going to replace the interior lamps with LEDs, which is pretty simple, but the visor vanity mirrors each have two lights that I can't figure out how to replace. Are these replaceable? If so, I would appreciate getting instructions. Thanks.
Problem solved! I bought the Audi part (4A0-905-849B) to replace my original ignition switch (just the electrical part). This is the correct part for my car because the original ignition switch was never replaced (I know that because I'm the original owner) and it fixed the problem. While I wasn't having any electrical problems -- just a mechanical issue with getting the key in and out) the electrical switch was binding and making it difficult for the key to line up properly. When I removed the old switch, it did not turn very smoothly, whereas the new one did. This took me a few hours, but mainly because I couldn't get a flat head screwdriver into the spots I needed to release the electrical switch. A word or wisdom -- you need a small flat head screwdriver that is less than 2.5 inches long. Anything longer and the air duct prevents you from lining up the screw driver to turn the screw. Once I got the short screw driver, it was very easy to remove the ignition switch and replace it. There are also instructions for this on Pedro's Garage: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_Ignition_Switch.html One more thing to note about the small screws is that they are exactly 180 degrees apart and face the same direction. The bottom one you can see, but the top one is only visible if you have a mirror (which is useful to get your bearings).
Changing the ignition lock assembly seems to be at least a 4 hour job, and the part is around $250. The dealer quoted me $1000 cost to do this, and it seems complicated enough that I don't want to try doing it myself. I spoke with an independent Porsche specialty shop and he said he's replaced dozens of ignition electrical switches (the $10-$30 part) and has never had to replace the ignition lock assembly afterward because this took care of the problem. He thought my issue would be fixed with just the electrical switch. So, based on that, I ordered the Audi OEM version of the electrical switch (Porsche doesn't sell this anymore, but the Audi and Porsche parts are the same), and I'll replace it myself. This is supposed to take less than an hour, so it's a low-risk gamble to save +/- $1000. I'll keep you posted.
I was planning on buying the "ignition switch" appearing on the link below from Pelican parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=POR&Context_make=&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=&Previous_Section=&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=ignition+lock&I1.x=0&I1.y=0 Are you saying I need to buy the "steering lock assembly with ignition switch (without lock cylinder)" and then swap out my lock cylinder instead? Pelican has the following DIY instructions for this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock.htm
2001, C2 coupe, tiptronic
When I turned my ignition key today, I heard a loud snap sound. Now I can insert the key with a little bit of wiggling and get the car started, and also turn it off and remove the key with a bit of wiggling of the key. When I remove the key, I no longer hear the usual "clunk" sound that means the steering wheel is locked. In fact, the steering wheel is not locked. What part(s) do I need to replace?
Nice explanation, JFP. Thanks.
From personal experience, I have about 15k on a M96 powered Boxster and just under 5k on a M96 powered C2 running LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug without any apparent negative side effects. I'm not sure what problems the plug could cause, as the torque specs are reduced and a copper crush washer is still used. If any magnetic metal shavings were circulating around in my engine, I would prefer they stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug making their existence very easily noticeable at the next oil change rather than have them circulate throughout the motor. I think the major concern with the stainless plug is the combination of its hardness and that it and the sump cover are dissimilar metals, which leads to other problems (both the OEM drain plug and LN's magnetic units are aluminum, like the sump cover). I'm a bit confused. If the OEM and LN drain plugs are both aluminum, then why is the torque spec for OEM 37 and LN 19? Shouldn't they be the same?
One of the first things I did when bought my car was to remove the tether. I've been doing this on every car I've bought since 2000, which is the first car I had that came with a gas cap tether. Except for the Porsche, the tether just guarantees that if the gas cap is dropped, instead of falling to the ground, it's going to swing and hit the side of the car. Around where I live, we still have full service gas stations, so you're better off forcing the attendant to put the gas cap on top of the pump when he removes it.