brent

In addition to buying the plastic socket/push rod unit from Porsche, you can also buy the ball pins. They bolt on and carry part number 986 561 879 00. You may want to purchase the nut as it is probably impossible to find and hard to fish out. You cannot expect the top to operate with out the ball pins in place and properly connected to the push rods. You don't have the car model info , but it must be my2000 or later. These limit switches determine the point that the top is to stop and tells the motor to stop. Without the top connected to the ball pin and connected to the push rod, the limit switch will never "know" when to stop the top motor. Replace the damaged pushrod(s) and ball pin(s) and all should be well. I always check that each gearbox on each side are exactly in the same position and I check that the gap at the front is uniform across from the passenger to the driver side when the top stops when closing and before you latch it. If not the top is bent, the gearboxes are not in sync or needs a pushrod adjusted.

My wife bought two of the "Extreme" models from this site for my '98 Boxster for Christmas. She ordered by phone and was very specific about needing a kit that fit the '98 Boxster. Their are problems from every angle with this kit. The seat heater elements don't fit the seats and require that all internal seatcover attachments that are cross wise of the seat bottom and seat back to be removed. The two internal attachments along the side seat bolsters can remain. Now the seat bottom insert bulges up because it is not longer being held down by three cross seams. Their circuit design is not for momentary contact switches like the Porsche seat heater switches. Also their switch has in its pigtail a circuit board that makes it high heat and low heat output on the same hot wire. Clever but problematic as it breaks from the Porsche wiring schematic. You can not just wire in the Porsche switch. Fixing this to use the Porsche switches require relays to replace their switch with the relay outputs going to the output terminals of their switch. Their switch has 4 wires (probably the ground, backlight, high and low) and the porsche switch has 3 terminals that involve the heater. The two outside terminals on the porsche switch are for the backlight. The center terminal is the common. I have made three requests to their customer service for a wiring diagram. Their response was that they have requested wiring diagrams from the manufacturer and they have refused to give them the information. This site is simply a marketing site, it does not have technical resources.

I found that my key remotes were tired and ineffective caused by the batteries not being held in properly by the battery retainer clip. I shimmed behind the battery with a few layers of tape until the clearance between the battery and the cover of the key was taken up. The best way to check this is to remove the remote from the key as if you were to change the battery. Press the lock/unlock button while supporting the battery. If it works then it confirms that this is the problem. Otherwise you need to remove the Antenna for the remote as it is in a foam sheath located in the A-pillarl It is a 10 minute job and is listed elsewhere in the forum. Search for 'remote antenna' I did both and my range is 65 feet.

Late reply, but did you ever figure this out? To me it appears as though the oil is coming from up higher and dripping down from the lowest point, which is that hex nut / bolt. I have a similar oil leak, but I can't figure out where it's coming from. It's definitely working its way down the side of the engine and collecting on that hex bolt. Thanks for any insight... John V I had a leak in the exact same spot and it was from a torn boot on the bottom of the AOS. No code had been thrown. After 10 years the boot has just deteriorated. Good Luck, Brent

Hi Brent, My car doesn't have a transmitter for remote locks, so the circuit board is missing from my key. What I see is the light bulb on one side, a cilinder looking thingy on the other side (fuse?!?) a contact plate on the bottom, a clear (silicone or glass) circle on top of the contact plate, the black button, and the two halves of the head. The attached picture is not very clear (cell phone) but should give you an idea. I will get a battery and see if it works. Thanks The cylinder looking thingy is the security pellet, if lost the key will not start the car. It stores a code that is read by the car security systems before it grants permission to start. I am not familiar with your key and can not offer much help.

I would not recomment duct tape. The adhesive is likely to gum up the works or at least make a mess over time. The perfect solution would be a simple plastic shim lightly glued in place of exactly the thickness of the gap behind the battery when assembled. Since Gulf Stream, BMW and Mercedes have entered the south, times are changing. Duct tape solutions are becoming endangered species except on Blue Collar TV.

I don't think you lost anything. Just expand the first picture in the thread to see the internal components. When I opened my key I have a circuit board with the battery in one half and the other half holds the key and the code pellet. This pellet is a glass capsule that is the second layer of electronic security to the key and is located in a slot in the lower left quadrant of the plastic key head. The pellet and key fit together securely and takes an effort to get them apart. The circuit board readily snaps loose from the plastic half. So if you have a circuity board, a battery, a glass pellet and the two halves that is it. You could replace the battery and snap it all back together to see if it works.

My key transmitter for the remote door locks stopped working like many others already listed on this forum. I switched to the other key that came with the car and in 3 years it stopped working too. I changed batteries with no improvement. I reset the key per the manual and no improvement. I turned the battery upside down in the remote to force a reset and no improvement. I noticed that the LED worked but the door lock didn’t operate. I disassembled the remote and tried it without the key just the transmitter, low and behold, it worked! Further troubleshooting revealed that the retainer for the battery didn’t hold adequately. Using the transmitter physically separate from the key allows your fingers to support the battery as you press the button. Apparently the LED requires much less power than the transmitter and a poor contact would fire the LED but not the transmitter. My keys are almost 10 years old. I have 125,000 miles on my 98 Boxster and I am the original owner. The keys have been used a quite a few times and the buttons have worn smooth. I measured the transmitter and the key fob and found the battery is not supported in the key fob other than by the plastic battery retainer clips of the battery socket on the circuit board. I used a piece of chewing gum between the battery and the case, snapped the halves together, disassembled and measured its thickness. I inserted a shim behind the battery, a round piece of foam about 3/32ths thick (I cut mine in half because it was too resilient and kept the key from assembling properly) and assembled the key and transmitter. The remote lock now works seamlessly time after time. This shim supports the battery forcing contact in the battery socket. The foam disk I used is from the assortment of disks you buy at the local hardware store to protect your furniture from a lamp base or pottery. I also used it to shim the windscreen in the roll bar to stop them from buzzing. More commonly they are felt disks but I found some foam ones. You could also fold some tape until it is the correct thickness and then cut it to fit and snap the key back together. It would be trial and error but easy enough to add or remove some tape and try again. It could be that the metal tangs on the side of the battery socket have fatigued to where there is poor contact or it could be the plastic battery retainer has done the same. In any case a two bit fix beats a $200 key. I hope this helps other Porsche owners :D .

I have used a product called surflex. All leather is finished much like the outside of a car. Fillers, color coatings, clear coatings and the like. I use their line of their products on my 98 boxster (original owner, with 110,000 miles in the Texas heat) and as a direct result haven't replaced a single interior component. The seat back bolsters, the steering wheel, the shift boot have all been repaired and refinished. It is available direct on line and they will color match for any finish. I have found the sofftener to be the best leather conditioner I have ever used. Their case study of repairing old Bentley dash covers was impressive. They need a 1 square inch piece to match. I would call them as they likely have the color in house for the boxster red. Brent