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BTW.... has anyone succesfully got the anti-dazzle rearview mirror to work? I followed all the procedures in the TSB, but it just doesn't seem to be getting power, or not powering on. Unless there's something here I'm completely missing? Does it have to be activated by a PIWIS or something? It just makes no sense to me why it wouldn't be working, when I KNOW all the connetions are correct. (There's only 3.... The Blue / RED which goes to the welding point of all the Blue/Red wires under the drivers seat. The Brown, which goes to the back of the relay assembly, where all the other Browns are. And the Orange / Black, which goes to where all the other orange/black connections are on the back of the relay assembly). There must be some "hidden step" I'm missing here somewhere.... ???? :huh:
I don't have my durametric cable on me to check. I'm hoping my dad can bring it up to me. But, that's what I was thinking, that possible the fuse pump relay is knocked out or shorted out some how. How do I check it? How do I remove the relay for that matter??
Just an update, I'm currently checking the fuses under the drivers side. Not sure if I should check somewhere else too. Looking for some other troubleshooting advice here... Or if someone has a hunch on what I might have disconnected or something?
I'm in a real bind here. And not sure what I did... I was trying to troubleshoot the anti-dazzle rear view mirror, and now the car won't start!!! I forgot to disconnect the battery before I did any work, but here's the following steps I took. 1) Removed Driver's Seat, disconnected wire harness 2) Removed fuse box carpeting 3) removed screws from relay bay under the dash. 4) Turned relay to the back side (exposing where wires are) 5) Using TSB 6827, tried fooling with the wires from the anti-dazzle mirror on back of Relay Socket 28 and Relay Socket 11. 6) Couldn't figure anything out, put it all back together. 7) Reconnected Seat, put the support bay back on etc. 8) Confirmed all lights, and everything else worked fine. 9) Tried starting car.... just cranks, but never turns over, as if it's not getting any fuel. What the heck did I do???
Yes this can be done. You'll need to take trim piece around the DSP module off, and put that on the tray. And take the one from the tray and put that on the DSP module. You may need to cut a couple of the plastic wire wraps around the harness to extend the length, but it should reach.
Maybe I'm misinterpretting what you're trying to remove, but it sounds like you're talking about removing the rear storage compartment. This is really quite easy: 1) Put the top in service mode (i.e. 2" to 3" from the latch location you would normally use to lock the top in place) This is the position where the rear cover lid is in the up position. 2) Go to where the lid is (that's now in the up position) and find the wire cables attached to the rear of the cover (they're black and on each side). Pull the top of that cable off the snap in ball joint. It's easiest if you use two hands and using your thumbs pry it up and off the ball joint. It should come off relatively easily. 3) Unhook the grayish like fabric which is held in place by two little plastic slide in like plastic clips. It just slides out of those clips. 4) Now that the back of the top is completely free, push it all the way up (essentially your folding the plastic window up towards the top) and then drape the extra grayish fabric over the top. 5) Congratulations, you now have complete access to remove the storage / speaker box.
Just an FYI. I had the same issue when I first got the car. The issue was a combination of a synchro and a bent fork. I contacted vertexauto out of Florida (i'm in Illinois mind you), and I removed the trans myself and drained it. I put it on a palatte, and Vertex shipped it freight free of charge to their shop. $1000 later and I literally, all new parts installed in my trans, and a new clutch, and a seal. That was probably the best money I ever spent. Drives and shifts like it's brand new. Never had an issue since.
Had the same problem some time ago. There's a New Style coolant cap that Porsche released. Had to do with the pressure in the system. The new cap fixes this issue. I highly suggest you purchase the $5 part from Sunset.
I can't remember if the 2001 is the one with the redesigned plug tubes or not. Someone else can verify. On my 2000 Boxster S, I changed the spark plugs, Splug Plug tubes, and Spark Plug Tube O-Rings all at once. I can't remember what year Porsche redesigned this, but after a certain year, they did away with the spark plug tubes and o-rings. The tubes and o-rings are cheap, and If you're model uses them, I suggest you replace ALL of them when you do your spark plugs. Again, Sunset Imports has the best prices on these replacements. They're really quite easy to change out. Jack up the car on one side Remove the rear tire (you may also want to remove the inner tire shield shroud for better access... up to you) Remove the spark plug pack / coil Insert a spark plug removal socket with long extension Wratchet out the old spark plug Take the butt end of an old screw driver and stuff it the spark plug tube until it's snug Grab hold of the shaft end of the screw driver with a pair of lock-jaw pliers and pull it out at an angle The Plastic spark plug tube with old o-rings should pop out with it. Lightly lubricate the new o-rings and put them on the new plastic spark plug tube insert the new plug tube assembly using your fingers, press it in until it's flush (you'll know when it's flush) insert the new spark plug wratchet in the new spark plug re-connect the spark plug pack / coil (UNTIL YOU HEAR IT CLICK! If you don't hear it click, you haven't pressed it all the way on, and you'll throw some misfires on the engine) Repeat for the rest of the spark plugs on this side. Lower the car, and repeat steps above on the opposite side. Congratulations... you're done. :)
As far as I know, that price hasn't changed. I just did an oil change 2 weeks ago, and that was the price. Sunset has always been my #1 place for parts including oil. In my opinion, it's MUCH better to get the 0W40 over the 10W40, especially when you can get it for this cheap. Give them a call, it's worth it. :sunset:
Just an FYI. But if you can wait a few days to have the oil shipped to your house. You can get 9 qts of Mobil 1 0W/40 Synthetic from Sunset Imports for $44 total. I paid $4 a qt from them.
I had this issue a few times when I upgraded to the Litronics. I found that the actual issue was that the driver's side headlamp wasn't actually "locked" into place. I was using the factory headlamp tool to lock it, however, that tool tends to get rounded around the edges and wasn't really locking the light, even though I thought it was. I just used one of my ratchets with an extension and attached one of my sockets to do the trick (I think 5mm, but maybe i'm wrong). You have to turn it extra hard (I actually thought I was going to break it), but then it finally locks and snaps it in place.