Chris_in_NH

I read the forum about taking an old screwdriver and using it to pry out the tube. I don't know if I'm exactly comfortable sticking an old screwdriver in there to get it out. Can they be easily removed just by reaching in with fingers? I'm not exactly sure how far down the tube goes.

why not? you're not going to use the tubes anymore. ;)

using your finger, you can try pressing the tube against the surrounding metal and pulling, but really the screwdriver is a great (and perfectly safe) idea. you do know it's the rubber-handle end of the screwdriver that goes into the tube, right? :huh:

Ebay has two right now both for right around 5k, one has 90 day warranty on block. The other one I didnt notice.

I dont have time due to urgency of getting it fixed as quick as possible so im looking for a short answer on the larger engine options. I understand it needs mods if it were to be done. I guess theres a 3.4 and a 3.6 engine replacement. Any ideas what this job cost?

I have done some research with locals around here and I was told the 20k was high.Theres not many options in seattle for this car.

it needs mods to extract the max power out of the engine, but it may be possible to simply re-program the DME (ECU) to use the new engine while you keep your old headers, exhaust, etc. and you can do these at a later time. i'm not 100% sure on this, but i don't see why you couldn't do it this way.

if you search this forum for '3.4' you will find tons of documentation on the subject. and, if you're going to spend $5K on a 'regular' Boxster engine, you better make sure it's a 3.4L 996 engine!! ;)

seriously, for not much more you can pick up a 3.4L engine.

1) We are thinking of getting a junkyard engine put in. Has anyone here bought one and for how much approximately?

I've seen Boxster engines on eBay for as low as $1500. eBay is a good source for engines, especially because of the buyer protection. If anything is wrong, if the engine is not as described, etc., you can get your money back. Also, buy the parts and labor warranty wherever you buy the engine. You can usually get a 30-day, 60, 90, 180-day, 1 year, 2 years, etc. The price depends on the length of the warranty. I would think that if anything is going to go wrong, it's going to happen in the first month or two of driving, so maybe the 60- or 90-day would be the most cost-effective. Make sure you get the LABOR (in addition to the 'parts') warranty. Parts may be relatively cheap, but if you have to take an engine out once it's in, you're talking big bucks. I just had a Saab engine removed/installed and it was $1500 to take out the old engine and put in the new one. I believe the labor was $75/hr, so that's 20 hours just as a time estimate for engine-swapping.

2) Should we have them drop it just to confirm the issues since it has to be dropped anyways in case its lesser of a problem.

Only if it needs to be dropped. You may decide to take it somewhere else and you may get a better labor rate if the mechanic takes out the old one AND puts in the new one.

3) Any other options that im missing here?

Yes. Upgrading to a 3.4L (or bigger) engine!! Many of us are just waiting for our old engines to die so we have an excuse to justify buying and installing a bigger engine. Fate is calling. Are you going to answer? ;)

it's completely unnecessary (unless you just want it covered up). you could cover it with anything or just leave it. Porsche will probably charge you $20 for a piece of plastic. ;)

talking about that magic drop when entering?

ah. that's probably what he means.

this post should be in the Conv Top forum. i'm sure it will be moved.

when you unlatch the top to put it down, the windows should drop a few inches. the same should happen when the top is down and you press the conv top button to put the top up (assuming the doors are closed and the windows are almost all the way up). does this happen in your car?

the microswitch that controls the window drop is located in the top latch receptacle itself. i think it is a $20 part and it is very easy to replace.

i would put your top all the way up, latch it, put the windows all the way up, and then unlatch the top to see if the windows drop a few inches. they should.

have you checked the fuses?

i would start the car and let it idle until the fans come on (stand/sit in front of car and wait for them to turn on). note the coolant temp and the approximate amount of time it took for the fans to turn on.

not sure of the install, but wondering how much the aluminum look cap cost. ?

i've seen prices around $140. the cap looks great, but i just can't justify buying a $140 cap that no one but me will see. if it was $40, i could. ;)

why do people automatically replace the MAF for 1128/1130 codes? if you do any reading on here, you'll see that a new MAF usually doesn't solve these codes.

if the Air-Oil Separator (AOS) was not changed with the engine, check your AOS bellows tube. that is the most common (vac leak) cause of 1128/1130. change the AOS proactively and see if your code goes away. it's a lot cheaper than a new MAF, and the AOS is destined for failure eventually.

that other wire looks orange to me in the pic.

are you sure that the brakes need changing, or is it just that you want to? ;)

36000km = ~22K miles. my original pads and rotors went almost 80K miles before needing replacement - and even then i could have stretched it another 3K miles. it doesn't seem likely that your car *needs* a brake job unless it has been tracked/raced/etc.

now, if you *want* to change brakes for a better look, there's nothing wrong with that if you have the money.

http://www.designrt.net sells Zimmerman rotors (OEM) that are cross-drilled and/or slotted for use on non-S cars. cost is approximately $350. FREE shipping, too! it doesn't look like they have the Boxster rotors listed on the website, but give them a call, they do sell them. you'll want to get the rotors with the painted rotor 'hats' so they don't rust. you can choose the color.

as for pads, i use Mintex Red Box pads and you can find them on eBay for ~$50 per axle. they work great and don't dust too much.

here's the link for the brake DIY: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/

the site above that 'eddison' pointed you to (Mike Focke's Boxster Pages) is invaluable to any and all Boxster owners - BOOKMARK IT!

and the most important thing, 'Boxster' has an 'S' in it!! :D

good luck!

i got the instructions from a number of forum members. you know who you are. thanks! :)

i suppose i should post them for posterity, yes?

sorry, this isn't really much help, but...

you say you have a door lock cylinder on the passenger side? consider yourself lucky! from what i understand, these cars are rare. for example, my '97 only has a lock cylinder on the driver's side. some cars for some reason have this passenger side door lock cylinder. i WISH that my car had this. it *may* be that cars w/o the alarm system installed have both-sides door locks. that would make sense. otherwise, if your only door lock broke, you would have no way to get into the car.

have you tried turning the key all the way in both directions?

on your driver's door lock, you might try putting some powdered graphite in there to lube the lock. but if it's sticky, it may be on its way out. a new door lock is a serious pain in the a$, as if you want your lock to arrive cut to accept your current key(s), you must order it from Porsche using your VIN. i guess this takes a while...

as far as the alarm retrofit, i don't see why you couldn't do it. look under your driver's seat to see what black box you have. i have the M535 alarm system w/remote capabilities. the M531 system is just the central door locking system. M536 is the M535 w/tilt sensors.

i'm guessing the necessary wiring harnesses should be there and ready to accept an alarm system. after that, you'll probably need to have it coded or something.

thanks Loren. i knew you would know. ;)

i'll check the factory manuals.

update: i checked the factory manuals that *i* have, and i don't see the section you are referring to.

any chance you might post the procedure for posterity? ;)

thanks.

me and a friend of mine both had our M535 alarm/locking/immobilizer computers get soaked. after drying them out, cleaning with alcohol, etc., we are still missing some functions (mine more than his).

we both have brand-new M535 computers and access to a PST2. we are in the process of getting our IPAS codes from the dealer/Porsche so that we can program these new computers.

does anyone know the actual PST2 procedure for coding these immobilizer computers? it would be a giant help!

both of the computers work well enough to allow the car to be started. and yes, we have both cleaned out our drains. ;)

thanks!

Chris,

i am having the AOS changed today, i will post after the work is done to see if that fix the problem. ( there was a lot of white somke when i started the car this morning.) i am hoping it didn't cause additional problem already.

As far as the plugs go, Bosch only sells regular 4 style instead of platinum 4. only NGK sells iridium for boxster S 2000 and up. 1999 and below would have a lot more choices from differrent makers.

according to the Bosch website, part 7413 is an OE plug. so you could use that one.

i don't know if 'Iridium' plugs are really necessary. but, it's up to you. whatever plug you use (that is made for your model year) is going to work. will one work 10%, 20%, etc., better than the others? i don't know. i usually don't worry about plugs. as long as it's one that works in my car (right size, right heat range) i'm happy. ;)

Hmmm I'm wondering if I should replace the AOS just as a precautionary... I'm not having any immediate problems, but I'd rather be safe than sorry later. I'm going to inspect it first, and check the part #. Seems to me, if I have the ORIGINAL AOS, It's almost better to replace it with an 04 or higher version anyways since this seems to be a common problem. Not to mention my babe has 73k on it already.

What do you guys think?

Also, Anyone know where I can get the "puck adapter" for my floor jack for a good price?

Thanks!

since '04 was the last year of the 986 series, you may want to proactively replace the AOS. as i mentioned above, 60-80K seems to be the most-probable failure range.

as for the 'puck adapter', go buy a bunch of hockey pucks and put one on top of your jack. (remove the 'cup' if necessary). ;)

with the hockey puck, you may need to get your car up a little higher to allow the jack w/puck access to the jacking points. you can just drive up on some 2x4's to get that additional height. tricks of the trade. B)

thanks Chris for the detailed explanation. i will order the AOS today and start FIXING the problem.

as far as having oil in the TB i did noticed some oil in the TB the day before yesterday when i was checking for loose connections. but not as much as yours. maybe like u said its only the begining of the problem.

last time i did tune up to the car i used Beru plug from porsche. do u think its necessary to go with factory or have you tried using NGK laser platinum or iridium plugs??

yes, oil in the TB = AOS failure. you can swap out the AOS in 2-3 hours. it's just a pain in the a$.

i just use Bosch Platinum+2 spark plugs in my '97. for your car, i think Platinum+4's will work fine. i don't worry too much about Beru/Bosch iridium, etc. my car runs perfectly with the Boschs and they are cheap. i have never noticed a difference between plugs. but any plug that is in the same heat range/specs as the OEM plugs will work just fine.

Well, my car had the keyless entry & alarm system, but I'm having a Clifford Authorized Installer, install a Clifford security system in my car now...

And yes, the alarm module is new... but the thing is, we have not even started to install the new alarm yet... all of these weird things have occurred during the "pre-install" as he was testing/verifying the proper wires to tap into.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

i'm with Loren on this one. i think you are asking for trouble installing two alarms, and especially using the same wiring as the OEM alarm system. has this installer done this to other Boxsters? if he's poking around testing wires, i'm guessing that he hasn't.

the only way anyone could steal your car is if you left the keys in it or it was flatbedded away. what is this extra system going to get you? (just curious) ;)

Thanks for the reply Chris - I did search the forums on the codes thats where I got all the great info to check all the things I did and these forums are awesome.

BTW 82k on the car and no I have not changed the fuel filter in last 15k.

Next on my list is put in new factory air filter and change fuel filter and i'll throw in a set of plugs for good measure as its been at least 15k since last set and see what that does.

i would do one at a time. change back to the OEM filter and see if the codes go away. if they don't, you'll know it's not the K&N and you may want to go ahead and use it if it's not causing the codes (although i really think it is). but if you change both the fuel filter and air filter at the same time and the codes go away, you won't really know which one it was! :huh:

and again, you said these codes started after you went to the K&N... ;)

Someone on this board replaced a bad gas cap and solved these codes. Give it a look.

yes a bad gas/oil/coolant cap can cause these codes. when you (or we in my state) get emissions tested, the gas cap is checked on some kind of gas-cap-checking device. i'm not sure if they do that everywhere in the US.

I'm concerned by this problem and I founded that "Blue Smoke from the Engine" is dealed in TSB n°1716 1/02 of May 10th, 2002.

Unluckily, this is one of the few TSBs missing in our forum. Do anyone knows where can I find it?

Thanks a lot!

except it's not a problem. it's normal.

i doubt the TSB is about a puff of smoke on start-up. and if it is, it will say exactly what Glyn said. ;)

yup, sounds like classic air-oil separator (AOS) failure.

what you need to do is look inside the throttle body and/or J-tube for more than just a misting of oil. my TB looked like this: (more below...)

that liquid is black gold/texas tea compliments of the AOS not doing its job.

as far as your oil level is concerned, the dash oil gauge only shows (approx) the top 1 liter of oil. when the gauge shows no 'bars', you are down 1 liter/quart. there are still ~8 liters left. the oil gauge level will change periodically and will certainly not be accurate right after you shut the car off. oil in the engine passages needs time to get back to the oil pan to be measured. when you pulled over and shut the car off, there was still plenty of oil in the passages. after the car sat for a while and most of the oil had made its way back to the pan, you then saw a full display on your oil gauge.

additionally, over time oil becomes contaminated with gas and water (normal by-products of combustion). if you take short trips where the engine does not get up to operating temp, more gas/water gets in the oil and gets measured along with the oil. when you drive at operating temp and at high revs, this will remove some gas/water and you may notice a substantial drop on your dash oil gauge as a result - although you have not lost any 'oil' at all. this is also normal, and will allow you to get a more accurate oil reading. the best time to check oil is first thing in the morning after the car has been sitting all night and the oil has had plenty of time to return to be measured.

in a perfect world, you want to reach engine operating temperature every time you drive the car (10-20 minutes of 'normal' driving). and you don't ever want to 'warm up' the car by letting it idle in the driveway. what i do is start the car, wait 15-20 seconds for the oil to get where it needs to go, and then drive gently, not going over 4K RPMs until the engine is up to temp (5-10 minutes after the coolant temp reaches 180). once the engine/oil/transmission/suspension is warmed up, feel free to get that tach all the way to redline if you want. (also known as an 'Italian tune-up') ;) these practices will keep gas/water in your oil to a minimum and allow all the car's metal engine/transmission parts to expand uniformly and slowly. your engine will thank you for it. :)

to answer your questions:

1. the computer (OBD-II system) is giving off more codes because your problem is getting worse. (i.e. the AOS is feeding enough oil into the cylinders that it is causing misfires). you should start fixing things at the AOS. this is the beginning of AOS failure as you are only having misfires in Cylinder 4, the first cylinder on the driver's side (right behind your back). if you don't change the AOS, the oil will eventually make its way to all cylinders. it is very good that you caught this early.

2. i would not clean the MAF yet. wait until you've changed the AOS and you get a CEL. you want to isolate the problem and if you clean the MAF AND change the AOS, which one was the problem part? (although it is quite obvious it is the AOS). plus, your MAF may be fine and if it ain't broke... ;)

3. can you drive the car as long as the CEL is not flashing? yes, except when you suspect AOS failure. the AOS could feed enough oil into your engine that the engine fails (catastrophically). DON'T drive it.

4. the AOS' part number is on the top side of the AOS. then look on the Pelican Parts Part Lookup Catalog http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...USA_KATALOG.htm in the Engine section under Crankcase Bleeding and you will see that the latest AOS for your car is 996-107-023-04-M100. it really doesn't matter what the old part number is because it has failed regardless of whether it is the latest model or the original. my guess is that it is the original. AOSs usually go bad around 60-80K miles.

5. after changing out the AOS, change the spark plugs. after you remove the old plugs and before you put the new plugs in, give the engine a few quick 1-second cranks by turning the key. this will blow out any remaining oil in the cylinder(s). the car obviously will not start as there are no plugs in. ;) after that, put the new plugs in and make sure all the coil pack connectors are firmly connected to their ignition wires (they SNAP in). here's a pic of the connection. the rubber boot is pulled back so you can see where it snaps together.

don't forget to also buy a new J-tube (part # 5 in the diagram below). the 'accordion tube' or 'bellows' (part # 10) comes with the AOS (part # 1). all the necessary fasteners/clips are included. you will re-use the mounting screws from your old AOS.

if you are not due for an oil change, you don't *need* to change the oil. if you *want* to change the oil, that's up to you, but it's not necessary. check the oil level via the dipstick and just top it up if it needs it.

i have found that www.SunsetImports.com and www.SuncoastPorsche.com have the best prices, but in this case, Pelican's don't look too bad either. figure $120-130 for both the AOS and J-tube + shipping. it is a rather simple DIY replacement; however, access is the hard part. here's a link to the DIY with pics. http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement

and here's a diagram:

good luck!

Hi Chris, lesson in English number 2, NS = near side, side nearest to the curb. Of course you know a hood is a bonnet and a trunk is a boot, a stick shift is a manual, a windshield is a windscreen, lifters are cam followers, parting out is breaking, mufflers are silencers, track control arms are wish bones, all perfectly logical !!!

http://aolpictures.aol.co.uk/galleries/tghair1811

ok, i see you have the 'Boxster Design' wheels. i have those, too. i've never really noticed the wheels' non-symmetrical-ness (that's 'Murcan lesson #2 - you can just 'conjure' words as needed). :lol:

my favorite 'English' auto term is 'prang'. i'd use it more often but 'Murcans wouldn't understand it and I'd probably be shot. ;)

ok, i'm learning... here in the States we speak 'Murcan. :lol:

OS = off side. what does NS mean? ;)

now i'm curious to see which wheels you have.

Thanks Chris, the car is 2003 2.7 with 50k, no other issues regarding this particular oil leak....no loss of oil etc, although I do have an axle shaft oil seal leak but thts another matter. out of interest does the AOS become blocked? what actually goes wrong with it, I find it hard to imagine its a complicated part.

i'm not sure exactly what happens to the AOS. but suffice to say that it does not do its job of separating air and oil (vapor) and ends up feeding oil into your engine (not good). you will know when this happens because the resulting cloud of smoke will engulf your neighborhood (not kidding).