Chris_in_NH

yeah, give that a try and let us know how it goes. when i did this to my car, the rough running/bucking/misfiring stopped instantly. it was like the car was brand new. i hope it goes as well for you.

Just out of curiosity, what did you end up doing to fix it permanently?

Thanks,

-Rick

i bought a new MAF. no problems since replacing it.

glad to hear that your car ran well after de-MAFing. just pick up a new MAF and you'll be all set.

i think http://www.autohausaz.com has the lowest MAF prices these days.

"The only thing I haven’t done yet is to disconnect the MAF, reset the DME, and drive the car around for a while to see if it behaves better. I intend on doing that on my lunch break today."

yeah, give that a try and let us know how it goes. when i did this to my car, the rough running/bucking/misfiring stopped instantly. it was like the car was brand new. i hope it goes as well for you.

which bulbs do you have in there now? if you don't know, you can remove one and it should list the manufacturer and part number on the bulb collar. if they are melting your headlight lenses, then get them out of there!

as RFM mentioned, H7 is the correct 'size', but the wattage is what makes the difference. 55w is standard and will not discolor your headlight lenses. you have to be careful with aftermarket bulbs that are supposed to be 'brighter', 'whiter', 'blue-r', etc.

just make sure that the bulb wattage is in the 55w-60w range or less.

Sylvania Silverstar bulbs are a good aftermarket option. they produce a whiter light than the regular halogen bulbs which case more of a yellow light. in my experience, they don't last as long as regular halogen bulbs, but they do have a better appearance for as long as they last.

if you wanted 'blue lights', the correct term is 'Xenon' or 'HID', or in the Porsche world, 'Litronics'. to have 'true' Xenon bulbs you would have to do a conversion, or buy the OEM Litronics from Porsche which are extremely expensive (~$1500 i think). there are kits on eBay that allow you to do this for around $100. beware of aftermarket bulbs that promise the Xenon or HID 'look'. these bulbs can melt your headlight lenses. you may be able to find some aftermarket bulbs that are blue-tinted and are in the 55w-60w range. you could give them a try to see how you like them, but usually they are expensive and put out much less light than regular halogen bulbs.

I mounted them on a custom wood baffle so the tuned port enclosure is gone. The car had an aftermarket Eclipse head unit when I bought it, and the way its wired I can't control the fade between the doors and the dash, just the balance. Was the stock becker wired the same way (did a fader even exist?) All I know is, for how good the dash sounds, the doors are not on par. I'm gonna keep fidgeting but I have a feeling they're just not getting the juice.

Matt

you shouldn't be able to 'fade' between the dash and the doors. think of it as 1 signal split into highs (dash) and lows (doors). the fader function would be for fading between front and rear speakers.

i still think you need more amp power to drive those speakers.

yup, buy another amp. the factory amp doesn't provide enough juice to drive those speakers.

sorry to hear... :(

a Porsche dealer won't do bodywork/paint, anyway. here's a great list of shops in your area.

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/northern...iniarepairshops

I found out what the problem was if it helps anybody else in the future. When I unlocked my door with the key the battery was dead and when the car had power I forgot to go and unlock the door with the key again so when I tried to start it the alarm was still armed. Well you live and learn and maybe somebody else won't have to worry like me after a dead battery.

so did you get a new battery or charge the old one?

everything works now? car starts?

When I went to put it back I found a plastic plug (I'm trying to attach it to this post but even though the photo is only 7kb the upload part of the dialog is sitting there for ages with a "rotating" round image and "Uploading File" so I don't think it'll appear - grateful for suggestions as to how to post the photo).

to post pics, go to http://www.tinypic.com, click 'Browse', find the picture on your computer that you want to upload, then click on it and select Open (or just double-click it). BEFORE you press the 'Upload' button, down further on the page there is a Re-Size option. use the drop down box to select 'Message Board (640x480)'. THEN press the 'Upload' button. when the picture is uploaded to TinyPic it will be re-sized to your specification (640x480) automatically, and the resulting page will show your photo and a number of links. you can choose the link that starts and ends with IMG tags, and copy and paste that link into the body of the message here at Renntech. then hit the 'Preview Post' button to make sure that your picture shows up in the message. 640x480 is the perfect size for Message Boards as the picture is big enough to see, but not so big that viewers will have to scroll to see the whole picture.

do this with all picture files you want to display here or on other message boards. or choose the option below (which is my favorite).

another great picture hosting site is http://www.pcars.us . what i like about PCARS is that you can create an 'album' of all your pics that you can link to as much as you want, and your pics are all in one place. it's a lot easier than having to remember TinyPic links. i also think that TinyPic links expire after a certain length of time, while PCARS links are permanent. the only 'downsides' to PCARS (and they're not really downsides considering what you get - a free hosting site and the ability to create a permanent 'album' to compile your car photos at one place) is that you have to create an account/register. also, PCARS has a limit on the size of individual pictures. they can be no bigger than 1MB (which is a pretty big picture).

PCARS does not have a picture Re-size option like TinyPic does, so if your pictures are bigger than 640x480 (you can always right-click on the picture and select 'Properties' to view the current size of the picture), you will want to re-size them yourself using any photo editing software (Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro, maybe even MS Paint). usually in the photo editing software, you just need to select 'Image' and then 'Re-size' and type in 640 x 480 and then 'Save' the picture.

here is my PCARS album if you want to see what i'm talking about. http://www.pcars.us/viewalbum.php?a=84

i hope this helps. ;)

Hi, it's the 18" Boxster S II alloys I'm interested in, does the same apply - don't want to damage my suspension

the 18" wheels will fit/work fine on your car. they will not damage the suspension unless you track the car hard. if you are just doing street driving, i would not worry about the suspension.

the ride will be a bit harsher than 17"s, but that is to be expected.

edit: i don't know if the 987 wheels will fit a 986. if they don't, replicas are the way to go.

I need to know what the part number is for the frame that goes around the AC in the upper console

the part number is 9965526770001C for $4.75, #23 in the picture.

Pelican Parts

I created a cupholder out of the side panel on my 2000 C2. It works great, very stable and holds a full size drink. However, I had to create this by removing the leather or probably vinyl from the side panel on my center console and fiberglassing a cup holder onto it. Looks actually better than it sounds. I used body filler to smooth all of the surfaces. I want to cover in the original material but can't find this color: sahara beige. I have tried GAHH and they don't have that color. Currently I have painted the part with a flat black, followed by a light coat of a honey color. Actually looks pretty close to the original color but I wanted to put material over it. I was also thinking of wrapping the entire center console in material as well. I have taken out my original ash tray, and fiberglassed in a tray (also remove the two fake buttons that roll down the rear windows on a cabrio (mine is a coupe). So now I have the perfect sized sunglass holder.

Anyway, anyone have any ideas on a source for Sahara Beige vinyl?

Thanks

can you post a picture of this 'contraption'? ;) it sounds interesting. but the reason i'm asking is because you can order one of those side panels in your color for $40 or so, and depending on the way that you have mounted it, it may be possible to cut a hole in the new side panel with a Dremel tool and mount the non-business-end of the cupholder to the *inside* of the new side panel, giving it a very *clean* appearance.

maybe you already thought of this and determined it won't work for your application. but i thought i would throw it out there. ;)

either way, you can order a new side panel and remove the vinyl from it. Sunset Imports should have them pretty cheap.

edit: i just checked over at Pelican Parts. it's $52.75 for a whole new side panel in Savannah. the part number is 99655209202S18. 'S18' in the part number is the color code for Savannah.

it's part #4 in this picture.

and here's the link to pricing.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...9-15-Frame3.htm

This little project has become a total pain in the ***. Beware of Speed Bleeders in Porsche calipers.

I've used these speed bleeders in several Mazda race cars - they leak on the Porsche calipers - this company is going to get a seriously pissed of customer calling on Monday. The original bleeders now leak as well so the speed bleeders have ruined the threads in my calipers. Looks like a trip to the machine shop or some new calipers. At the cost of speed bleeder...

i've been using the Speed Bleeders for years on my (MY97) Boxster and have never had any leaks/problems. just my $.02.

yes, the alarm scenario is a possibility. you can *try* to jump it, but if the battery is fully discharged it probably won't hold a charge at all. best bet is the new battery. if you check that link i posted above, you can find a good (or better than OEM) replacement battery for much less than the dealer charges.

battery is about 5-6years old it had been sitting almost all winter long only started once and it was a weak start at the time.

car is garaged so should not be wet I will by a new battery this weekend but was wondering why all the lights interior and exterior like the hazard lights door lights and windows go up and down in sync with the starter trying to turn the engine.

the noise of the starter is hard to describe not a clicking but a little deeper sounding like I think it probably should sound

well, i don't know why the hazard lights would be flashing/windows going up and down, but since you say that the car has been sitting, the battery is old, it previously had a weak start, it's winter (cold, i'm guessing), and the interior lights pulse in sync with the starter, i feel confident in saying that it's the battery.

when replacing the battery, just remember Negative comes off first and goes on last. ;)

Check the clutch pedal interlock switch. It is located on the clutch pedal arm. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed the switch closes and completes the circuit so the starter will crank. You can remove the two wires and short them out to see if this resolves your starting problem. Remember to disengage the gear and have it in neutral before trying to start it with it shorted.

i second this suggestion. when i read about the starting problem, that's the first thing i thought of.

how did the battery die? did you not start it for a while (how long)? cold weather? old battery? leave internal light/radio on?

is the gas tank full (or at least not empty)?

- when you open the car door, do any lights go on (door courtesy lights/cabin light)?

- when you put the key in the ignition with the door open, do you hear the door chime?

- when you turn the key to the first position, do any dash lights come on?

- when you turn on the headlights with the key in the ON position, do they work? are they dim?

- will the radio turn on?

- when you turn the key to start the car, what happens? does something different happen when you apply the jumper cables to the battery?

- if you keep the key turned like you are trying to start the car, will the clunking eventually stop?

my first suggestion would be to replace the battery. here is a list of batteries that will work/fit.

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/batteries

when you say you're hearing a 'clunk clunk clunk' from the starter, do you mean that the starter is turning the engine very slowly and the engine is not catching? or do you mean that there is an actual (metal sound) clunk from the starter itself? is it a clunk or a 'click'? is the clunk/click fast or slow? does it become slower (and/or stop) as you keep the key turned?

it sounds like you're not waiting long enough to try starting the car after you hook up the jumper cables. do the lights flash in sync with the starter turning the engine? if the battery is stone cold dead, you won't be able to jump it, anyway. is the weather cold where you are? that's when old batteries usually give up the ghost. i would attach the jumper cables and go gently rev the truck for 5-10 minutes. THEN, go try to start the Boxster. make sure all electronics (radio, lights, etc.) in the Boxster are OFF. or charge your jumper battery up real good and then go give it a try.

if you can describe the clunking noise a bit better, maybe that will help.

it could also be a problem with the alternator, but if you haven't been having problems before, it would seem odd for that to occur while the car was not running.

it could also be a fried alarm/locking computer/immobilizer unit. feel under and behind the driver's seat to see if there is water there. has it been raining heavily lately where you are?

but if that battery is 8 years old, i'd say it's probably just time for a new one.

a failing/failed ignition switch can also cause wacky problems. have you noticed any extra resistance when inserting/turning/removing the key? a new ignition switch runs about $20 and can be replaced rather easily. you will need to be flexible and have a very very very short flat-head screwdriver.

I am experiencing this exact same thing. I was planning on taking care of it this weekend or next. About how long did it take you to complete this project?

I have this exact same problem too with my '97. It has been happening for years. Usually only when it is very cold out, and mostly when turning right. I have described the problem to others as sounding like one of those zip-cord toy cars where you pull the zipper-cord quickly to launch the car.

I just changed my transmission oil about a month ago (it took about 2 hours as the fill plug on my '97 was a bear to unscrew) and hoped that the noise would go away, but it didn't. I am going to check the motor mounts and shift linkage when the weather gets a little warmer. The good news is that this has been happening for at least the last 5 years (that I remember) and my car is still going strong, and on the original clutch, for 130K miles.

I hope we can find an answer to this. It is puzzling.

Any suggestions? I'm using the special slotted wrenches designed to surround the nut to prevent stripping and have soaked them in penetrating liquid wrench oil. I have not applied any heat yet - that will be my last shot before cutting. Any issues using a propane torch to warm 'em up? Besides setting my car on fire or melting the fittings....

Thanks for any suggestions.

i'm not sure which 'penetrating liquid wrench oil' you used, but i have found that 'PB Blaster' works the best of all brands that i have tried. if that doesn't work after a few applications, a little heat may be needed. just be careful as the penetrating oil is probably flammable.

I think I want to stick with OEM parts on this one. At least the rotors...

these rotors ARE OEM. DRT buys the OEM rotors and makes all the holes/slots/etc at their shop.

i bought mine from these guys, too, as they are local to me. i picked up all 4 OEM Zimmerman rotors (with cross-drilled holes) for $300 from them. however, the hats were not painted/coated, so that may be why the price is higher now.

so far I have cleaned the MAF and cleaned the throttle body along with throttle position indicator and it seems to be doing better. I cleared the codes and they haven't come back yet.

i know you've already replaced the A/OS, but if you have oil in the TB *after* changing the A/OS, it is quite possible that the *new* A/OS has failed incredibly quickly. it is certainly a possibility.

there is also a quite simple way to test your MAF to see if it causing the running problems (but not the oil in the TB). disconnect the MAF's wiring harness, but leave the MAF in place. disconnect the negative battery cable for at least a minute to reset the DME/ECU. re-connect the neg battery cable, leaving the MAF disconnected (this will not cause any harm to your car/engine). start the car. if it runs 100% better, it's the MAF. if you want to double-check it, re-connect the MAF's wiring harness and your rough running should return.

keep in mind that if you disconnect the battery, you will need the radio code to get it working again.

i don't have an '03 with a 'fancy' display, i have a '97. i don't really know the answer to the question, but i can tell you that i have only seen one color for the displays on these cars and it is yellow. so i am guessing that the answer is NO, the text does not turn red when there is an engine problem vs a non-engine problem.

someone with an '03 may prove me wrong. ;)

if you haven't already, see (and BOOKMARK) Mike Focke's web page. http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/mikespor...boxsterwebpages

take a look at the Boxster Buying Guide (Parts 1 & 2) and the Model Year to Model Year Changes pages.

one of the biggest differences is that the '03 has the glass rear window, while the '02 has plastic. the shape of the roofline also changed a bit in '03 to accommodate the glass window. some people prefer the 'old' roofline of the '97-'02s, while others prefer the glass window of the '03. but it's a convertible, so what the roof looks like when it's up may not matter much. ;)

i would have to see both cars to give you an honest opinion. but the general rule is to buy the newest you can afford. in this case, it's the '03.

Aside from heat shield clamps and fasteners, are there other means for keeping them from vibrating?

the heat shields rattle because the fasteners rust out. you can either rip the heat shields out completely (which is what i did. no problems for over 4 years now) or buy some fasteners that won't rust (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.)

in the diagram, it looks like parts 25, 26 and 27 are what you need. the sizes are listed at this link http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...2-00-Frame3.htm when you click on the part. note the sizes you need and buy some parts at your local hardware store that won't rust. or maybe buy the parts from Porsche but spray them with a high-heat rust protectant.

hmm. weird.

first off, i am assuming that you put the bulbs in the correct locations. the Boxster's headlights are counter-intuitive as the 'high beam' bulbs are located in the BOTTOM position, and the normal headlight bulbs are in the TOP position within the pod.

secondly, when you say 'HIDs' - exactly what kind of bulbs did you get? did you do a Litronic conversion or are you talking about halogen bulbs that have an HID 'appearance'? the reason i ask is because if you use a bulb with too high of a wattage/operating temperature, you can melt your headlight pods' plastic lens. and you do NOT want to do that. $$$

to turn the fog lights on, you must turn the switch 1 click to the right and pull the switch out 1 click. is that what you did to (try) to get the fog lights to go on? (just making sure...)

are you SURE that the high beam switch was not clicked to the hi-beam ON position?

i wrote a whole big long post before, but it boils down to these questions.

- what happens when you try to turn the fogs on (do the fogs turn on, but the blue high beam dash light goes on but the high beam bulbs do not turn on, etc.)?

- what happens when you turn the high beams on? (does the blue dash light turn on and the high beam bulbs turn on normally)?

- what happens when you turn the low beams on? do they work normally?

- can you use the fogs and the low beams simultaneously? does the blue hi-beam dash light turn on when doing this?

basically, what are the results of every possible light switch position? ;)

do your fog lights turn OFF when you turn the hi-beams on? (they should, unless your car is hacked to allow them simultaneously.)

it could be a problem with the ignition switch. sometimes the car's electronics start acting flaky when the ignition switch starts to go bad. have you noticed the ignition switch sticking at all when you turn the key? also, make sure the headlight pods are solidly mated to their connectors inside the fender. i suppose it could be a problem with the stalk, or a relay or something like that.

hopefully, your answers will help pinpoint the problem.

AutohausAZ.com has them real cheap.

be VERY careful when you remove the dash pod. it has very sharp plastic posts on both sides that WILL gouge your dash. make sure you cover these posts and the surrounding dash area and carefully watch what you are doing. it only takes a second of the post resting on the dash to mark it up badly.

if you DO mark up the dash, use a hairdryer to heat the area up really good and try to massage the mark out with your thumb/fingers. repeat if necessary.