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testdrv321

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Everything posted by testdrv321

  1. testdrv321
    Karl, how would you define moderate verses hard braking zones? Turn 10 at Summit is -40mph, is that moderate? It is compared to Turn 1 at -90 mph. Just another interesting topic.
  2. testdrv321
    Interesting thought... my car has the X74 which places it much lower to the ground. This may make the factory brake ducts less effective. The GT3 and Cup car use a different designed duct. Hmmmm.
  3. testdrv321
    Usually you start with a complaint of a problem, i.e. something leaks or makes a noise, etc. Most of the TSB's do not effect ALL cars. A TSB on the RMS means someone should take a peak and see if its leaking. A TSB on a grinding tranny means a quick ride. If you are buying a used car, your dealer should be willing for a reasonable fee ($300) to drive it and put it on a lift to thoroughly inspect it. If they won't, call another dealer.
  4. testdrv321
    I know that this info has been posted before, but I searched diligently on all the forums and could not fin it. What are the part numbers for the big yellow calipers, rotors, pads and other nesc. parts. I am cosidering upgrading to them on my 996. I believe they were all motorsports parts from the cup car. Thank you.
  5. testdrv321
    Karl, what kind of times do you run at Summit? I'm running 1:26-1:28. I am not sure if I agree that Summit is not hard on brakes. There are alot of braking zones per lap and some decent changes in MPH. The main straight ends with almost 100 mph of decel, the end of the chute also drops 70 mph. I'd guess there are about 250 mph of decel on each lap. I'd have to think about some of the other tracks to see how this compares.
  6. testdrv321
    It looks as if the brake fluid boiled. Summit is a hard track on brakes. Some more details for the discussion... I was using ATE Type 200 Gold fluid which was change the week before and only had the 2 1/2 days on it. I was using Performance Friction 01 compound pads for this event. I used Pagid RS-14s in the past and intend to switch back to the Pagids. They seem to stop better. There is no brake ducting other that stock on the car. I definitely don't ride the brakes. I brake hard and fast so no worries about draggign the brakes to heat them up. I am planning the following changes to help with the problem... Changing to Castrol SRF and I am going to bleed after each track day Changing to Stop Tech braided stainless / teflon lines - may not help, but can't hurt I want to put on some brake ducting. Anyone have part numbers for the PM system? Is that off the cup car or the RS? What about homemade ducting? Anyone have pics? I want to change to big yellows, but to stay in the C stock class, they need to be standard or as an option on the car for that year. I still can't get a straight answer from PCNA if the CRF option will get you the bigger brakes. They keep telling me to call Germany, but not sure who there. Anyone have info on this??? Thanks guys :-)
  7. testdrv321
    We had a very concerning pair of incidents at Summit today. Two cars had brake failures one lap appart. Both 996's. We both experienced the same problem at the same time. Basically, just the pedal going soft and to the stop with no braking effect. Both of us were able to drive the cars off with minimal damage. The question is what happened? I am going to strat diagnosing tomorrow, but I have a few thoughts and wanted to get some feedback from those of you racing 996's. We were both running high temp fluid, but nothing fancy. Different pads, both recently bled and/or changed. The brakes came back after cooling, but the fluid in the resivoir was to the top and some actually leaked out the cap onto the top. These cars are driven hard and fast. I asked around and quickly heard of a similiar problem with one of the other instructors Boxster S. The problem has been a balloning of the factory rubber brake lines. Another non Porsche friend had a similiar problem in his track car. Any thoughts on upgrading to teflon/braided stainless lines? Also what about fluid? I've heard that Castrol SRF is the way to go. I am starting club racing this fall and need to have my confidence in the braking of the car restored? Any thoughts or suggestions for braking on a race 996? Also, are ducts necessary? Anyone bought or made them for this car?
  8. testdrv321
    One more thing I want to revisit and I'll explain why... Option code CRD and CRF... what are they really? Option code CRD calls for 'brake calipers in red' for $1426.00 Option code CRF calls for 'brake calipers in yellow' for $3220.00 I am trying to determine if CRD is the standard brakes just painted or if this will result in a C2 with the larger TT/C4S red brakes. Similiarly will CRF result in the 350mm big yellows??? This would be the only thing that makes sense for the cost difference between the two. If it were simply paint, why would yellow be 2x the price of red???? The cost for a complete set of disks, calipers, pads for the big yellows is about $3000.00, in line with how Porsche typically prices their options (price of new parts / no credit for old). The reason I am so interested is that if the option actually results in the larger brakes, I would be able to run them in C Stock PCA club racing. I called PCNA and they do not know, I am working to get them to contact Germany, but have not been getting to far with them.
  9. testdrv321
    So how many different ones are there, and what is the difference? Is the cup car one taller (goes lower) ?
  10. testdrv321
    Here's the deal... 2003 C4S blue w/ gray leather X51 Power Kit, short shifter, sport seats, painted center console and seat backs 600 miles!!! Sticker at over $104,000 Guy who bought it changed his mind and bought a lambo!?!?! First $88,000 takes it :eek: Iin case you are counting that is WAY below dealer cost. Email me if you want details. Porsche Credit financing available.
  11. testdrv321
    Do you know the part number for the black plastic splitter (spoiler?) that goes underneath the GT3 / cup car nose of the 996. Is it the same for 99-01 and 02+ ??? Thanks
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