paulv

I pretty much do the same as sanjeev with the same results except I'm running Continental ContiExtremeContact tires. BTW, these tires are being phased out and Conti has introduced the Extreme Contact DWS series -- the reviews at Tire Rack for these tires are very good.

Regards,

paul...

P0300 is the general misfire code that's always set whenever there's misfires and P030x is the cylinder specific misfire. If he has access to a Durametric, there should be some "fault type" info for P0300 that could help isolate the problem. There's a whole bunch of stuff to check including electrical related (plugs, coil packs, wiring) and mechanical (secondary air system, valves, exhaust system, fuel injector/supply). Also, if there is any "freeze frame" info from the Durametric tool, there could be some info to help troubleshoot in the way of what the fuel adaptation (fuel trim) was doing when the misfires triggered the CEL. Also, a flaky crankshaft position sensor can be a source even if it didn't trigger a code.

Regards,

paul...

I do have the Durametric. How do I use it to help me more. I just got it and haven't played around too much with it.

If your CEL is still on, the Durametric tool will have a lot of info stored -- if it's off, then the tool will only provide "pending code" info. The important stuff to help troubleshoot is the freeze frame data which only gets recorded when the CEL illuminates and for most DTCs (codes). Get as many screen shots as possible and post them here (the DME related screens). Someone should be able to help as there are many knowledgeable people here.

Are you running ver 5.x or 6.x?

Also, you should become a Contributing member here as there is access to TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) and there's a TSB that describes what all the actual values are on the PIWIS and Durametric tools -- I found it to be a big help.

Regards,

paul....

Cylinder misfire on 5?? I wish you would have said that at the beginning. I have no idea what those codes are. New fuel injector and you should be off to the races. Probably plugged by crap that formed in the tank due to not having gas for 2 years. I would run good gas and fuel injector cleaner for a few tanks and hope to hell your problems are over.

What exactly are codes P0300 and P0305.

One is injector misfire whats the other one?

P0300 is the general misfire code that's always set whenever there's misfires and P030x is the cylinder specific misfire. If he has access to a Durametric, there should be some "fault type" info for P0300 that could help isolate the problem. There's a whole bunch of stuff to check including electrical related (plugs, coil packs, wiring) and mechanical (secondary air system, valves, exhaust system, fuel injector/supply). Also, if there is any "freeze frame" info from the Durametric tool, there could be some info to help troubleshoot in the way of what the fuel adaptation (fuel trim) was doing when the misfires triggered the CEL. Also, a flaky crankshaft position sensor can be a source even if it didn't trigger a code.

Regards,

paul...

Try to find a silver bulb that illuminates amber. These look best in clear corners. No "egg yolk" effect.

Thanks for the idea. I will look into that bulb. Any quick leads for me on this.

May want to try Hoen. I never bought any of these so I can't give you any recommendations. Some people on a couple of Mercedes forums have used them and like them, especially the Xenon-match bulbs.

http://www.hoen-usa.com/cr.htm

Regards,

paul...

I' ve got a couple of bulbs on the way. There silver but emit amber.

Also I noticed that LED's are an option .Any thoughts on going LED.

Kimo

No experience with LED replacements but if you go that way, make sure what you buy are plug & play so you don't get lamp errors coming up on the instrument panel. Maybe some else here has used them and can give you some feedback.

Regards,

paul...

Try to find a silver bulb that illuminates amber. These look best in clear corners. No "egg yolk" effect.

Thanks for the idea. I will look into that bulb. Any quick leads for me on this.

May want to try Hoen. I never bought any of these so I can't give you any recommendations. Some people on a couple of Mercedes forums have used them and like them, especially the Xenon-match bulbs.

http://www.hoen-usa.com/cr.htm

Regards,

paul...

................................... Yes you do need to be careful laying the wheel on the trunk lid to ensure you dont dent it, but its quicker and cleaner than trying to plug a hole which you may not even be able to see. I agree these instant fix plug kits seem effective , though I've no confidence that my repair would be as good as a tyre fitter. Not all punctures can be repaired.

Totally agree, but I was considering the probabilities of getting a puncture that I can't see/fix. I was essentially looking for an alternative to pumping that green sealing goop that comes with the car.

Regards,

paul...

FWIW, I went with an even cheaper idea by buying a scissor jack ($15 at Walmart, Mr Goodwrench), a cheapo lug wrench ($9 at Walmart), and a tire repair plug kit. Since the 987s come with an electric air pump, I figure that I could fix the tire on the side of the road good enough to get me to a shop to buy a new tire or to have the tire professionally patched. I don't have the multiple CD changer so all my tire repair stuff is tucked into that compartment.

Regards,

paul...

I can't get my computer to reconize the engine module part of the software.

Everything else works, just can't read that part in 6.0.

E-mailed the company but heard nothing yet! I have the newer style cable.

Did you recently update to 6.0.1.4? I did yesterday and many things (activations) aren't working right. Which sub-version are you running? I reverted back to version 6.0.1.3 which I'll check again as that version was working great.

Regards,

paul..

Yes, it's part Number 16 in the diagram that is loose. Still not sure how it attaches.

Looks like items 16, 17 & 18 all are connected together and I believe that there's molded clips in these plastic parts. have you removed the direction/fog light assemblies/air grilles to look inside?

Regards,

paul...

The trim piece on the front bumper cover of my 2006 Boxster S ( which goes around the fake air intake in the center) is loose on the left and right hand sides, but seems snug against the middle of the bumper. There are little plastic clips that seem to hold it in place, but these are now too loose to hold it. Any ideas how this comes off so I can try to properly reattach it or replace it?

Here's a parts diagram from the Porsche site -- maybe it can help?

Regards,

paul...

FrontBumper.pdf

Way too many codes. If you haven't already, clear them all out and see what comes back and focus on those.

I just found these codes listed on that site and wanted to post them for people's reference -- sorry about the confusion.

Regards,

paul...

Found these codes with plausible causes on this site: http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/ which is the site I use to look up codes.

I pulled down all the codes for an '06 since I have an '07. Hope these of use to someone.

Regards,

paul...

Boxster2006_ABScodes.pdf

Loren just posted the new TSBs and in the 987-2 section (and probably 997 section) there's a TSB that provides descriptions of all the actual values that are in PIWIS which will be a big help to many of us that have the Durametric tool.

Loren, thanks again for a great forum!!

Regards,

paul...

Have you tried sending them an email?

I did, I haven't gotten a reply yet.

Sorry for the rant above. I was so exited when I read your post, then went to their website to download the new version, and ended up very very disappointed. I'm in a bad mood for the day now :huh:

Understand your disappointment, but they probably had to change out the interfacing chip in the cable a while back to be able to communicate with all the modules in the system. I figure it's worth the extra $150 just to be able to bleed the ABS pump.

Regards,

paul....

Hi

Bleeding my brakes and clutch and have two questions -

How do i access/find the clutch bleed nipple ?

Do i need to empty the brake fluid resevoir of existing fluid when using Eezibleed sysytem ??

Cheers

The clutch cylinder bleeder nipple is up high on the driver's side of the transmission (assuming a US car) and can be done when you have the driver's side rear wheel off (because you're also bleeding the brakes) and that corner of the car is up in the air. I did my 987 a couple of months ago using the Motive power bleeder and the only thing I messed up on was placing a single catch bottle for the clutch where I should have used 2 bottles in tandem -- the single bottle filled up pretty quickly when I needed to cycle the clutch pedal for 90 secs (according to procedure). Loren has provided excellent procedures in the 996 DIY section (not sure if those are accessible to non-contrib members). BTW, I used ATE super DOT 4 fluid like most people do.

I never could totally empty any reservoir due to obstructive objects inside the reservoir structure which prevented my turkey baster from reaching the bottom -- and never had any problems with brakes because of that. Just remove as much as you can, refill with new fluid and go from there.

Regards,

paul...

Thanks Paul,

The dealer said it was the IMS, extended warranty (Lexus) offered a used engine with 20k miles, dealer said "no"....

Stephen

Paul,

I will probably take it to a shop in the South Bay this weekend, hopefully it won't have to pull the engine out and charge an arm and a leg....

Thank you!

Stephen

With a flakey IMS, the cam timing would have started to vary too greatly causing the P0021 and once it remained way off, the P0018 got set -- I was hoping that it was one of the "easier" fixes. Good luck with this and I hope everything works out in your favor.

Regards,

paul...

I enjoy these... I just have no idea what they mean :)

Does high Fe mean excessive wear on the engine?

"High" is a relative term, so the idea is to keep doing the analyses and trend the data so problems can be anticipated before a component fails. properties of the oil is nice to have as we can see how the oil stays within grade (viscosity). Here's some info of where the wear elements can come from and how to read a report.

Regards,

paul...

Bently_SourcesOfWearMetals.pdf

ReadUOAReport.pdf

Here's another UOA for people who enjoy this stuff. It looks like 22ppm for Iron is a fact of life with this car. The last analysis was done by a local lab (at 16967 miles with same level of Fe) so that's why it's not on Blackstone's history. BTW, the Cu levels have been dropping down which is to be expected. All comments are appreciated.

Regards,

paul...

UOA.pdf

Anyone know? I have the P1108 code myself and cannot figure it out.

Loren has the correct info below......

Regards,

paul...

Hello everybody,

I'm moving from Chicago to San Francisco and decided to drive my 2005 Boxster S. While I was in Nebraska, my CEL and "Check Engine See Workshop" message came on the dash around 5 PM on Friday. I was about 50 miles from a Porsche dealer in Omaha but they had already left for the evening.

I bought a code reader and the first code it gave was P0021 and since I couldn't do anything about it, I reset it and drove on. The CEL came back on this morning and the code was P0018. From what I've read on this forum and others, it's not a critical warning. It's been driving fine for the past 700 or so miles so I'm not going to delay my trip, I'm in Salt Lake City and am suppose to report to my new job on Monday.

There's not much I can do at this point but I'm just wondering if there's any additional insight into these codes....

Thanks!

Stephen

Hi Stephen,

The "18" code has to do with the crankshaft position in relation to the intake camshaft position. The "21" code has to do with the intake camshaft being off timing. A common recommendation for both of these is checking the cam adjusting solenoid to see if it's dirty of has failed. I'd recommend that you bring it to a dealer or a good indy shop. Usually, all P00xx codes are related to cam timing issues. Good luck!

Regards,

paul...

Here's a little more info taken from http://www.equus.com -- look under the Support tab and select OBDII Definitions:

Code Make Description

P0018 Generic Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 2 Sensor A

Code Make Description

P0021 Generic Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 2)

Note: bank 1 has cylinder #1 so this is the other side.

Regards,

paul...

Hello everybody,

I'm moving from Chicago to San Francisco and decided to drive my 2005 Boxster S. While I was in Nebraska, my CEL and "Check Engine See Workshop" message came on the dash around 5 PM on Friday. I was about 50 miles from a Porsche dealer in Omaha but they had already left for the evening.

I bought a code reader and the first code it gave was P0021 and since I couldn't do anything about it, I reset it and drove on. The CEL came back on this morning and the code was P0018. From what I've read on this forum and others, it's not a critical warning. It's been driving fine for the past 700 or so miles so I'm not going to delay my trip, I'm in Salt Lake City and am suppose to report to my new job on Monday.

There's not much I can do at this point but I'm just wondering if there's any additional insight into these codes....

Thanks!

Stephen

Hi Stephen,

The "18" code has to do with the crankshaft position in relation to the intake camshaft position. The "21" code has to do with the intake camshaft being off timing. A common recommendation for both of these is checking the cam adjusting solenoid to see if it's dirty of has failed. I'd recommend that you bring it to a dealer or a good indy shop. Usually, all P00xx codes are related to cam timing issues. Good luck!

Regards,

paul...

I think the link you meant was http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm - wow that's a nice resource - thanks !

Sorry I had the URL mixed up -- glad you found it anyway.

Loren is right, and there's a reason why the manuals are "free"

Regards,

paul...

I found those same dimensions for a 986 at http://www.cannell.uk.co

Regards,

paul...

We use fine metal pleated mesh filters at work for protecting pump internals on CIP systems. In the main they work well and do allow for re use , but not on an indefinite timeline. For most automotive uses where the filter may be changed 8- 10 times in the life of the engine (assuming a 20k service interval) I would suggest the material may be durable for a number of services. I think its important to be aware that the media will fatigue or become increasingly difficlut to clean as metal shards , degrading gaskets etc start to build up and become snagged in the media. Some form of forced backflushing or ultrasonic clean is generally the best method of cleaning. The filters i've seen also have a tendency to delaminate from the housing / end cap after prolonged extended use.

Hi Berty,

Thanks for the supplemental info -- I was concerned about some of the same things you mentioned. I've decided to stay with the OEM paper filters.

Regards,

paul...

Hi Paul,

No worries. As to the re useable filter, I think you may need an ultrasonic bath to properly clean it. Certainly i would be uneasy about leaving it in any length of time without a thorough clean. Personally i'd rather throw the old filter away with the debris than have a re useable one.

Hi Berty,

Yes, I also had concerns about a proper cleaning and don't want to spend a lot of time waiting for it to dry before re-installing. I was curious to know if anyone had fantastic things to say about the filter. Thx.

Regards,

paul...