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AutoEnginuity (http://www.autoenginuity.com/index.html) makes a diags tool which you can buy specific modules for depending on make of car (and they have a module for Porsche). Downside is that the software updates are not free. I was comparing this against the Durametrica few years ago and decided to go with Durametric, and glad that I did -- version 6.x added a lot of useful diagnostic info (comparable to AutoEnginuity) and they still have free updates. Other scan tools that support Porsche are over $1000 and get expensive very quickly -- these are great if you're a pro and have a shop. Regards, paul...
RFM/JFP, Thx for your insight -- Instead of swapping wheels, I got lazy and stopped by the shop where I usually have my tires installed and the tech used the hand-held to determine that the RR wasn't transmitting (while the others were). So, like you guys said, premature battery failure. I'll wait until I buy another set of tires (about 1.5 yrs) and change out all four sensors. Regards, paul...
Why does the TPMS controller need to be re-programmed when a wheel sensor is replaced? I'm also having errors with my TPMS with a fault showing for the RR wheel. I'm going to swap the rear tires and then the rear antennas to see if I can isolate the problem. My Durametric shows that I have 23 months remaining in the other wheels with zero months on the RR wheel. Regards, paul...
I'm having a problem with the TPMS and think it could be in the wiring or the controller (already checked the wheel sensors and antennas by swapping sides). Does anyone know if the controller needs to be programmed if I have to buy a new one (with PIWIS)? I checked with Durametric and they don't offer coding for the TPMS module but service info I've seen specifically states that a new module needs to be coded. Anybody knows for sure? Thx. Regards, paul...
Alex, Have you looked at the long term fuel trim (RKAT, FRAU, FRAO) values for both banks? Also, DFI engines are made to be able to go leaner, but I don't know what the limit is. Another thing is that those vaues are not consistent as I noticed that lambda is around 1.0 throughout various rpms but at some point it jumps to 3.0+ for the same range of rpms. BTW, you're tracking too many actual values with Durametric -- this tool, like many others for various OEMs do well when only tracking a small amount of values. Just read the actual lambda values for both banks and rpms only and see what the results are. Regards, paul...
White987S, Please post your thoughts on the JG oil -- I'm curious about what kind of startup noise you hear (specifically chains sliding on plastic runners). Thx, and best wishes for another 50K!! Regards, paul...
Select the TPMS entry in Durametric (I'm assuming you have version 6.x.x.x), and then look at the various Actual Values for each wheel. If the Durametric can't communicate with the TPMS controller, you may want to first check the fuse (F3 in Fuse Holder B, 15A) for the controller. The controller is located at the front trunk, left side if needed. You can also see how much battery life (in months) is remaining in each sensor (which is what I check every 7500 miles). Regards, paul...
I remember reading this: 1) You can end up with faults in some of the control units -- these should clear up after the new battery is installed. 2) Steering angle sensor: Turn wheels straight forward Switch ignition off and then on again twice Turn engine on From the straight ahead position, turn the wheel approx 20 deg to the right (past the straight ahead position) Drive straight ahead for about 2 secs and at least 3 mph This should reset itself. 3) Power windows: Push and hold window switch to fully close window Push switch once more (to close) Repeat these steps, only to open window Regards, paul...
Porsche's public site has parts catalogs: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/originalparts/originalpartscatalogue/ Regards, paul... PS: Sent you a PM on this b/c I couldn't reply to your post with an image attached. Look at illustration 903-05
John, The 987's have a rear controller that powers most of the items in the rear of the car (lights, soft top operation,etc) and that controller is fused. If the fuse is blown, then none of the other rear lights would work. Once I had a problem with one of my license plate lights periodically going out -- when I hit the rear bumper, it would come back on. I fiddled with the light socket and bulb holder contacts to make a better connection and haven't had a problem since. BTW, these lights are wired in parallel with one side grounded (brown wire) and the power side (gray wire) being driven by the rear controller. Sent you a PM. Regards, paul...
Try resetting the windows: Perform the following procedure for all power windows: · Actuate rocker switch and fully close window once. · Actuate rocker switch once more to close. The upper end position of the window is stored. · Actuate rocker switch and fully open window once. · Actuate rocker switch once more to open. The lower end position of the window is stored. Sorry, I can't help you with the heated seats. Regards, paul....
I got my hardtop when I ordered my '07 since I live in New England and was planning to drive the car year 'round. I really like the top and glad that I bought it. It does take two people to install/remove the top. Also, when I have the top loosely in place, I prop up the rear window with some bubble wrap (about 4" or so), which makes it easier to connect the rear window defogger cable. Then I secure the top. BTW, when you buy a hard top, you will need all the hardware that goes on the car to mate up with the hardware on the top. Sorry I can't help with locating the top. Regards, paul...
Sorry, I don't have answers but if you send me your email address, I'd be happy to send you the interior/exterior lighting wiring diagrams from Mitchell-1. These are copyrighted so I can't post them. Regards, paul...
I'm not sure how this chart is useful. First of all, the fuses are not responsible for the parasitic draw on the battery, the components on the circuit are. Secondly, you don't need a clamp probe to measure parasitic draw (current, measured in mA) which can easily be detected accurately by a $20 multi meter..................... First: Agree Second: Agree The idea is to measure the current draw without opening the circuit to insert the DMM into it. All they essentially did was to measure the resistance of a bunch of fuses and then created a table of voltages to do the Ohm's law arithmetic on to calculate what the current would be going through the fuse that yielded that voltage. BTW, this was from an article by Karl Seyfert in the Dec 2010 issue of Motor magazine that he got from a Carquest training seminar -- it's nothing that I thought up! Regards, paul...