Andrew911

Thanks Ahsai, I'll check out your suggestions in the morning and report back. I appreciate it very much! If it is the ignition switch, would that cause the front trunk and rear engine lid from opening?

2003 Targa tiptronic. 60k miles My past 24 hours of Porsche ownership have seen some highs and lows: Yesterday, I replaced the driver's side door lock assembly to fix an issue where the glass was popping back up when the door was opened. Took the car for a test drive and all was well. Today, I took it to run errands. Made several stops and each time it started and drove just fine, however, at one point the key fob button stopped locking the car, and I discovered that the passenger side was not locking when locking the car manually with the key (normal?). I came home and it sat for a few hours. Went to go for another drive, and now the car won't start. Put the key in and turn, all the lights come on, radio, HVAC, etc, no start, not even a crank. Thinking it was possibly a low battery, I tried to pop open the front trunk and engine lid. Nothing. It's like the buttons are dead. Curiously, the button to pop the rear glass works fine, and I can open and shut it with no problems. I tried the method of applying power via the red jumper in the driver's footwell with both my batter tender and a 12v Diehard jump pack. Absolutely zero change. Aside from the front trunk and engine lid, all electrics appear working, aside from interior lights. Exterior lights are fine, I can adjust the driver's seat with controls and seat memory, turn on the radio, etc. Any suggestion? I am completely stumped, and quite frustrated.

I wonder if the wind pushes back and warps the deflector slightly(?). I'm sure mine is the same way as I can push forward on it and make it correctly seal.

Resurrecting this because I am having the exact same issue. Did anyone come up with a solution?

Any chance of something like this being created for the hole where the rear seat belts come out? I'm wanting to do a rear seat and seatbelt delete in my targa and would like something to plug those.

Very cool! I'll try it out. Thanks for doing this!

As the title says, is the GT3 center console delete compatible with Tiptronic cars? Every picture I can find is a manual. Seems like it would, but perhaps the issue is the trim piece cover?

After unplugging the battery for a bit, the key fobs are now working. Now getting an occasional faint horn beep when opening a locked door from the inside and some times when reversing out of the driveway. Any ideas there?

Thanks for the reply and you got me thinking. All the seat functions work (including memory) except the driver's side heater is apparently intermittent. It worked right off the bat when I plugged the seat in, but then on a subsequent drive it didn't, then I tried it again and it came on. This morning it didn't. As memory serves, there are three connectors: large black one, white plug and then a blue/black combo. I'll double check and see if any of these wiggled free. Is the black one the one that goes to the DME?

So, I swapped my comfort seats for another set that were in better condition. Now, both my key fobs won't lock or unlock the doors or open the frunk. When I manually lock the doors, only the driver's side locks. I have no warning lights on, and the car starts and drives just fine with either key. By swapping the seats does something happen with the anti-theft or central locking systems? Do they have to be re-programmed?

In an effort to grant more leg room I am wanting to do the GT3 Console delete modification, but I have three challenges: the car is a Targa with Natural Brown interior, and heated seats. Provided I can even find a GT3 delete kit in that interior color, is it possible to relocate the Targa switches to the switch blanks that are located to the rear of the ash tray? This would give me the console delete, fill the center console switch locations (car also has PSM and rear wiper, and I want to move the heated seat buttons to the center console) plus replace the blank switches with something useful.

Thanks wizard, I checked that out. The issue I am having is the motor doesn't make sounds at all, it's like it's dead. However, I did some troubleshooting and can add: On the interior switch, I discovered the two brown wires had been cut in half at some point and the two halves of each wire were wrapped together with electrical tape. I used wire nuts to put them together temporarily and it appeared power is now going to the switch (I can't remember if it was lighting up before). Is there anywhere online I can find a wiring diagram? That didn't solve the problem immediately, but I have now determined that the microswitch that detects when the hatch is closed will work when pressed down. So, I think this would mean the latch mechanism is indeed receiving power? Pressing on the other microswitch does nothing. I'm guessing this is the one that tells the motor to activate to lower the glass further. Can just that part be replaced?

D3 appeared fine. No broken filament. Haven't tried multimeter on the plug to the latch yet. Are there any relays I should check out?

Will do. Can just the microswitch be replaced? I'll have to look at the catch again later tonight, but it appeared the microswitch was riveted on (?). Wasn't sure if just that can be replaced or if the entire unit must be.

Thanks Joe. Do you know which fuse/relay it might be? Looking at the diagram below I see a few for convertible top but nothing for Targa specifically. D3 or D4 perhaps? http://howtoporsche.com/911-series/996-1997-2006/1997-to-2006-911-996-fuse-box-diagram-location-and-list-with-amperages/#996-fuse-2003 Do you know if the entire latch actuator has to be replaced?

Hey all, I just got a new to me 996 Targa that is a bit of a project. When I bought it, the rear hatch was stuck in the closed position and would not open, either by by key or switch on the door sill. After reading many a forum post I crawled into the back, removed the rear trim panel, and was able to manually pop it open by using a screw driver to pop the lever. Now it won't close. I can lower the glass and feel it catch on the latch, but it will not pull down into the fully closed position. The car senses that the hatch is open and thus all the interior lights stay on along with the red warning light on the dash. Any idea what the culprit is? To recap: What I CAN'T do: -Open rear hatch glass either by key or button on door. When key is pressed, the red light on the dash blinks but no sound is hear from the hatch mechanism. Pressing the button by the door sill does nothing, like pushing a dead switch. -Have the glass "pull down" into the closed position after the mechanical latch clicks and locks it. You can then wiggle the up and down an inch or so, which means it isn't fully closed. What I CAN do: -Lower and lock the glass into a semi closed position. It can be released by flipping the catch with a screwdriver. I dismounted the latch mechanism and had a look. Everything LOOKS right, but it's as though no power is getting to it. Yet, when I connect the power the interior lights come on. It looks like someone in the past worked on it already as it has a 997 part number. Help!