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Andrew911

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Everything posted by Andrew911

  1. To close the loop and help any people in the future: YES, it can be done on a Targa with Heated Seats and a Tiptronic transmission. YES, you can relocate the seat switches to the center console and rear blanks. You will need to extend the wiring for the rear switch blanks, but the lower buttons on the center console are reachable without having to extend them. YES, you can find a Natural Brown GT3 delete kit. It's not available in the US, and dealers aren't able to get it. Buy it from Rose Passion in France. Even with shipping to the US it was cheaper than the other colors the US dealers offer. YES, it is completely worthwhile and a fantastic upgrade for tall drivers. Long distance driving is now enjoyable! One word of warning: I have the BOSE system with the floor mounted subwoofer. The subwoofer does not match the contour of the GT3 console, therefore some of the black plastic on the sub is visible from the driver's seat. It will need to be covered with a small bit of carpet.
  2. Yes, moving the two switches about two feet so they reach the rear of the center console. Appears they are 22 gauge? All I can find locally is 18 gauge. Will that work for such a short distance?
  3. Apologies if this is a dumb question, but I am working on a GT3 console delete and am needing to extend the controls for the roof and sunshade to the rear center console blanks. What gauge wiring would I use to extend? I think it might be 18?
  4. When doing some work on my Targa I noticed that the removable rear carpet section is flat out missing the left and right outer mounting points. I see cut outs in the carpet where a bracket of some kind might be that allow the two outer tabs to pop in. Can anyone take a photo of the areas in question or provide a part number? I included a OneDrive link with three photos of my car and a file called Hatch.jpg that I found on Rennlist. I outlined in red what appears to be the missing piece. https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aguh2btnWEVMhIYG9_o31b0qOPYzrQ Best I can come up with is it might be #18, or one of the associated parts, in the diagram below. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
  5. Mine does this but also feels like the car is going to launch itself. A strong press of the brake pedal is required.
  6. Welcome! I'm new as well and am also looking to replace the head unit. I'll be going with one of these: https://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php/products/car-audio.html
  7. Another five years, another resurrection. Like the above posters, my car's front hood is askew. If you're facing the car, it looks like it is shifted to the passenger side and slightly clockwise. There is a noticeable gap on the driver's side versus the passenger, plus the hood sits higher than the fender on the passenger side. I had some luck loosening the four mounting bolts and repeatedly adjusting them, thus reducing the gaps. However, I'm unclear how a person adjusts the hood to meet the measurements in Loren's picture. In order to adjust the hood it seems you have to loosen the four mounting bolts, lower the hood, make the adjustments, and then raise it back up again and tighten the bolts. The problem I have run across is that upon raising the hood, it moves slightly, resulting in it being off again. Neither the rubber buffers nor the latch matter as I can see the hood is already off when lowering it down. Any ideas?
  8. Manual or Tiptronic? I've been told the Tips have a higher risk, but don't know for sure. Mine is a 2003 with 61k miles. Debating on whether to do it or save the $5,000+ I got quoted for IMS replacement.
  9. Oh, that's weird. My reply got truncated somehow and a link for the AO S keyword got added. I wrote: "Thanks again Joe. I actually did end up using a block of wood to dislodge it. Didn't break anything on the alternator and surprisingly the plastic connector for the AO S is still intact (for now....ha!) Getting it back in may be another nightmare." I know appearances can be deceiving but it looks like you have a lot more space to work. In my car I swear that metal hard line butts right up against the rear bolt. Glad to see I'm doing things right though and just need to struggle with it a bit more. BTW, did you get the revised filler tube? If so, how has it held up?
  10. Thanks again Joe. I actually did end up using a block of wood to dislodge it. Didn't break anything on the alternator and surprisingly the plastic connector for the AOS is still intact (for now....ha!) Getting it back in may be another nightmare. Funny you mention the oil filler tube. That is exactly why I'm removing the alternator. The tube cracked when I removed the airbox to replace the engine mounts. I'm currently stuck trying to get it back in. I used oil on the new o-ring and fill tube, but it doesn't want to go back in easily. Any tip on getting more leverage? I can only get my left hand in there.
  11. This has been my hope for a while, but I don't think so. I have lifted on the bolt and it doesn't budge a fraction of a millimeter. I can feel the bushing up tight against the bracket with no apparent gap of any kind...I can't fit a fingernail between it. If I pull out the left bolt I can rotate the alternator clockwise some so it appears to be loose, but just still attached via the bushing (?). Counter-clockwise is no go.
  12. Thanks Joe. A couple hours with a 4lb dead blow hammer and a two foot piece of metal and it still hasn't budged. What's my tip off when it actually has moved though? Will the bushing sit flush with the alternator?
  13. Apologies for resurrecting a dead thread, but I am too am stuck on the alternator bushing part. When it's stated the bushing moved forward, does that mean towards the front of the car? How do you know when the bushing has moved far enough? Will it be flush with the alternator? Reading the DIYs I knew I was in for a struggle. Each night this week I soaked the bushing in PBlaster. After hammering on it for a couple hours and applying more PBlaster, I'm not sure it's budged at all. With the bolts removed, both the left and right sides rotate clockwise a bit, but don't drop or otherwise move. Any further suggestions or do I just keep at it?
  14. Just wanted to follow up and close the loop on this strange issue. I ended up throwing in the towel and took it to my local shop. There they diagnosed a cable to the alarm module was not plugged in correctly, which caused a lack of signal to the front trunk release, even though it had power. Plugging in this cable correctly instantly got the front trunk working again. They also found two frayed wires under the driver's seat and repaired those, though it was probably unrelated. During my troubleshooting, it appeared to me all the cables to the alarm module were nice and tight. About the only thing I didn't do was pull the thing out entirely to check. Maybe if I did I would have found the cable issue. I'm not quite sure how a cable gets plugged in incorrectly but it's solved now. One interesting tidbit. I didn't know the horn itself was supposed to honk in the event something was left open when locking the car. In my case, the interior lights would light up and a weak horn/squelch/chime sound was heard INSIDE the car. Having only owned the car a few months and this being my first Porsche, I thought maybe this was normal. When the car returned from the shop, the headlights flashed and the horn honked...i.e normal operation. The shop diagnosed this cause as being a failed glovebox microswitch. Sure as ****, when I pulled the glovebox I discovered the microswitch was indeed broken and the previous owner tried fixing it by wadding a bunch of electrical tape around it. UGH! To top things off, the little mount for the microswitch is missing, so a $2 part must now be shipped from Germany. Dealer wasn't able to find any in the US. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, while we weren't able to solve the problem 100%, I learned a LOT about the car, item locations, what fuses do what, etc. Invaluable knowledge for the future. I also in turn was able to help out a fellow Renntech member in Germany with getting his front trunk open via the emergency cable. So, I passed on some knowledge ?
  15. I recently did this job (coincidentally also on a 2003 Targa!) and it was exactly like you just described. You gotta have that XZN before you start. It is definitely a job of patience but really isn't too difficult. One thing I noticed was that the old assembly had an extra plastic piece on that was pretty good size while the new one didn't. I didn't swap it over as it made the install much easier with a tad more room. Was that the same for you?
  16. Installed the new hood actuator, and no change. Car starts up and runs, but nothing from key fobs, and front trunk switch inside the car does nothing. It does light up though and I checked for any loose wires but found none. Also did a check of fuses and still all looked good. One thing I noticed is that the emergency release pull seems to trigger the hood actuator (is that normal operation?) so it seems to me like it should have power. On the plus side I was able to get the hood to shut completely, though it still requires a pull of the emergency release cable. I'm stumped. Any other thoughts? I have it on the battery tender wishing upon a star that maybe it just needs some juice. Also, for anyone doing this in the future, or if Google brought you here, the hood actuator is indeed very easy to install like Joe said. No removal of the bumper cover required. Get the hood popped open, undo the four caps that hold the plastic trim on, peel back the trunk liner, remove the two 10mm bolts, and then remove the actuator. I found I had to peel back the foam to unclip the wiring harness. The foam surrounding it wedges it in there pretty tight and it will seem like it's attached/glued, but it's not. Just be careful you don't catch any wires.
  17. Okay, cool, that's what it looked like to me as well. Just making sure there weren't any gotchas lurking!
  18. Awesome, thanks. Do you know if it's necessary to pull the front bumper to replace it? A quick glance it didn't seem to be needed but a couple threads hint that it does.
  19. Thanks again, Joe! I take it part 99651112700 is what I need since it's for 2001 and newer? Assuming 99762411900 is for 99-00 cars? Would there be any advantage is replacing the entire lock mechanism?
  20. Thanks for the info, Joe. The project had to be put on hold for a couple weeks but I am working on it again. I managed to get the frunk open with the manual release cable. It required quite a bit of effort to pull but it popped the lid. Now the trunk won't close at all. I can drop it and the latch will catch but it won't fully close, the lid pops back up. Any ideas on that? To clarify: the single beep of the alarm can be caused by the gas cap, the fuel filler door latch, or both? Also, wanted to add: I left the negative battery cable off for about 30 minutes and got the same result: car fired right up with key, but no lock/unlock from the remotes. Front trunk button like it's still dead, though engine and hatch glass buttons work fine.
  21. If it makes you feel any better, closest independent to me quoted close to $5,000 for IMS job. This is on a 2003 Tiptronic.
  22. Quick update: -Fuses C1-C4, E1, and F8 all checked out from what I can tell -Voltmeter reads 12v when key is turned, just under 14v when driving Which leads me to the next part. Today on a whim I tried to start the car and it fired right up. Yesterday, it wouldn't do it no matter what, and today it started on the first crank. Engine lid will open when key is in ignition and button pushed, but the horn beeps and interior lights flash when doing so (is that normal). Front trunk still will not open with button on door sill or either key fob. Agreed it looks like some kind of alarm module problem. Would the next step be to somehow get the front trunk opened so I can disconnect the battery and hopefully reset it?
  23. Yes, it is. Bought it from the dealer, and it appeared identical in terms of dimensions and parts and such. Colors were a bit different. Original used a translucent cover while the new one was solid black. Exact same part number.
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