Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JE 17

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    66
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by JE 17

  1. Another thought: I have another complete harness. Though it wouldn't be fun, I could swap them. The complication is that I believe one of these is a different year. Does that make a difference?
  2. Ok, so I removed the engine to check cam timing. That was just slightly off in bank 2. What I did notice was cracking in every coil, so all have been replaced. Back to troubleshooting: starts right up, but still sputters and dies. I checked using the above procedures as well as I could, lacking the corresponding "pin IV/31" information as I don't have that tool. The Bentley is a bit short of explanations as to somewhere similar to check, as well as how to identify "connector III" of the instrument cluster. I believe it only has one yellow with green stripe, as I found that same wire on connector X 2/3 in the trunk. That cluster connector was loose and not locked in place. This had no effect on my continuing code P650. I also got a 9110 code from the cluster. Where can I go from here? MAF sensor?
  3. It does. Since I went with the 996 TB, I got a 996 ROW tune.
  4. Forgot to mention: Durametric shows no bank 2 cam activation when it runs. And thanks for your wisdom!
  5. I understand that. The diagnostic appears to require a special tool (9637) which I can't seem to find anywhere, and I'm not sure it would be cost-effective if I did. I'm not good at all with electronics and accept that. I see I'll need to consult a professional on this unless I get lucky and trip over the cause. In that case, I'm sure I'll win the Cayman GT4 in club drawing too!
  6. So it doesn't appear my Durametric will be of much help. Great.
  7. I got the full 850cc fuel volume as specified. So now I'm left with this electronic problem which appears to require a factory tool. Am I correct?
  8. Yes, I saw that in another thread. Trying the simple stuff first! Thanks!
  9. Did get to run just a little but very roughly. Now moving on to check fuel pump. Getting only a P0650 or 165 code.
  10. I wondered how far down this thread would go before someone spotted that!
  11. A little update. Just got back to this project after needing to get some daily drivers renovated. As I surmised, I had managed to swap the cam and crank position sensors. So now I can crank it, and it pops a little, but won't start. Moving on with the Durametric to see if I can find a gremlin.
  12. Thank you, I fear a trailer drive is in my future. I'll check for continuity.
  13. The situation: Bought this 2002 S with a bad engine. Replaced it, now getting the P0336 for bad crank sensor. Per past posts here, have checked out the sensor from the new engine and the old one and both are fine at about 880 ohms between pins 1 and 2 and infinity to pin 3. My question: is there something simple I should examine before hauling it somewhere to get the wiring tests done? Yes, I've checked fuses and relays but as you know, the DME won't allow the fuel pump to run without a crank sensor reading. Thanks.
  14. Joe, sorry to take a while to respond. I haven't yet obtained the diagnostic program. The biggest thing is...it's revving fine now! Of course, this could just be temporary, but a change in usage is what I believe responsible I had read elsewhere online that these engines dislike running below 3000rpm. I had been trundling through town in the low 2000s. Now, I make a conscious effort to stay above 3000 in those situations, and it seems to have taken care of the problem. I hope. Thanks for your efforts. I'll have a reference if that is not the case.
  15. I haven't checked timing. I just bought this '99 about 10 days ago. I've only recently tried running up towards redline, and every time it dies out just past 6k. No codes. Love the car, but this is a bit weird.
  16. Joe Hurst: glad you started this. Mine is doing exactly the same thing, hitting brick wall at 6k. I was going to just throw a fuel filter on it but you have elevated the game a bit. Awaiting your test results!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.